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Dog Owner General Information

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Helpful Guides - Guides

This page includes links to articles of interest on a variety of topics. Some articles are only found on this page (such as “Giving That Dog A Job To Keep Him Happy” and “10 Reasons to Clean Up Pet Waste”.) Several other pet articles included here can also be found under a more specific page topic on this website (for example: the article “Choosing The Right Type of Dog for You” is listed below as well as on the page, Choosing Your Dog.)

ABC Pet Services provides these articles to dog owners (some articles also include information applicable to cat owners), so that the relationship and lifestyle between you and your pet is a happy and long-lasting partnership.

Anthony Moyer, Founder of ABC Pet Services, is also happy to assist you by providing customized dog obedience classes, pet sitting services, puppy obedience classes, as well as nutritional and behavioral consultation. Just This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it .

 

Articles:  (29)

Vaccination Schedule for Dogs
Why Do Dogs Eat Feces?
Teaching Basic Commands: Learn the Right Way to Train Car Sickness & Fear of Riding in Cars
Choosing Your Puppy Fear of Thunderstorms & Noise Phobias
Choosing the 'Right' Type of Dog for You Older Dogs: Common Behavior Changes
Myths about Spaying and Neutering Separation Anxiety
Nametags: The Best Insurance for Lost Pets Important Reasons to Clean up Pet Waste
Good Dogs Make Good City Neighbors 10 Tips for Controlling Shedding
The Many Uses of Gates Choosing the Right Toys for Your Dog
The Many Benefits of Pet Doors Dog Crates
Flea and Tick Control Give that dog a job to keep him happy
Reasons Your Dog Needs a Bath An Obedience Training Glossary
How to Build Bonds Between Children and Pets
Choosing a Boarding Facility
Canine Vaccine Product Chart
Deworming Guidelines for Dogs & Puppies
tarting Your Pet on a New Food
Choosing the Best Food for Your Dog
Bad Behavior May Not be a Training Problem

 

Vaccination Schedule for Dogs


A possible vaccination schedule for the "average" dog is shown below.

Age

Vaccination

5 weeks

Parvovirus: For puppies at high risk. Check with your veterinarian.

6 & 9 weeks

Combination vaccine* without leptospirosis.

Coronavirus: where coronavirus is a concern.

12 weeks or older

Rabies: Given by your local veterinarian (age at vaccination may vary according to local law).

12 & 15 weeks**

Combination vaccine*

Leptospirosis: include leptospirosis in the combination vaccine where leptospirosis is a concern, or if traveling to an area where it occurs.

Coronavirus: where coronavirus is a concern.

Lyme: where Lyme disease is a concern or if traveling to an area where it occurs.

Adult

Combination vaccine*

Leptospirosis: include leptospirosis in the combination vaccine where leptospirosis is a concern, or if traveling to an area where it occurs.

Coronavirus: where coronavirus is a concern.

Lyme: where Lyme disease is a concern or if traveling to an area where it occurs.

Rabies: Given by your local veterinarian (time interval between vaccinations may vary according to local law).

Consult with your local veterinarian to determine the appropriate vaccination schedule for your dog. Recommendations vary depending on the age, breed, and health status of the dog, the potential of the dog to be exposed to the disease, the type of vaccine, whether the dog is used for breeding, and the geographical area where the dog lives or may visit.

*A combination vaccine, often called a 5-way vaccine, usually includes adenovirus cough and hepatitis, distemper, parainfluenza, and parvovirus. Some combination vaccines may also include leptospirosis (7-way vaccines) and/or coronavirus. The inclusion of either canine adenovirus-1 or adenovirus-2 in a vaccine will protect against both adenovirus cough and hepatitis; adenovirus-2 is highly preferred.

**Some puppies may need additional vaccinations against parvovirus after 15 weeks of age. Consult with your local veterinarian.

Bordetella and parainfluenza: For complete canine cough protection, we recommend Intra-Trac II ADT. For dogs that are shown, in field trials, or are boarded, we recommend vaccination every six months with Intra-Trac II ADT.

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Teaching Basic Commands: Learn the Right Way to Train


Teaching your puppy basic commands - Come, Stay, Sit, Heel, and Down - is essential to your relationship and the safety of your pup. As you prepare to work with your dog on obedience training, it is important to remember a few basic rules to make the process an easy and effective one. You may think you can do it on your own, but there's a right way and a wrong way to train. Starting out the right way is much easier than trying to retrain after bad habits are already formed.

Keep Training Sessions Short - Even though everything you do should be regarded as training in one way or another, structured command training should be done in short sessions - several repetitions is enough - at least three times a day. You want to keep your pup enthused about training and, like children, their attention span is short.

Be Consistent - Each family member should use the exact same words each time. It should be "Come," not "Come here girl," and "Stay," not "Stay right there, don't move."

Never Get Angry - It will only increase the time necessary for training and will always affect the trust your puppy has for you. Remember, like dealing with your children, deep breaths, count to ten . . . .

Praise Each Success - Let them know they please you when they perform a command by gently rubbing or petting them over the back or shoulder. Verbal praise makes your dog feel good about what they did

Praise or Correct Behavior Immediately - So they can associate their behavior with either the positive or negative reinforcement. Don't automatically discipline them if they don't follow a command. They may not understand what you want them to do, which could be the fault of the teacher, not the student.

Patience, Patience - This is going to take time. The most common mistake is moving too fast. Your puppy should know and respond to each command. "Good enough" is rarely good enough.

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Choosing Your Puppy

Let us assume you have isolated the group of puppies from which you want to make your selection. They could be within the confines of a large cage at a shelter or in a room in the breeder’s home. Remember, as you try to make your selection, just as every person is different, so are dogs. Your goal is choosing a particular puppy that matches your image of the perfect dog. Many authors and dog fanciers emphatically believe that it is impossible to judge an adult dog’s personality or abilities from his behavior as a puppy. One of our close friends, Delmar Smith, is a very famous dog trainer. He once visited the Queen of England’s kennel. It is renowned for producing numerous field and obedience champions. Delmar asked the senior resident trainer responsible for the majority of these wins about his method of consistently picking puppies that would be future winners. The old gentleman smiled and simply replied that he let everyone else pick the pups they wanted and then worked with whatever was left. He believed that through 7 to 10 weeks of age, all puppies were equal.

We would agree that it is far from an exact science, but most people who involve their lives around dogs believe there are better methods than relying on some form of random selection. Most of us do not want a puppy that will mature into an overly aggressive animal. Neither do we want one that is excessively timid or shy. We want a dog that will be reasonably easy to train, cause little damage to our home and friends, and adapt well to our family and household.

Observing behavior

Spending a little time with a group of puppies and being observant can usually help to isolate those with good, outgoing personalities. They will be in the midst of puppy play, being neither overly dominant nor submissive. If you crouch down, friendly pups will usually run to your feet. When picked up and supported well, they normally will not fight or struggle to get down. Ask yourself some obvious questions. Does the puppy seem to enjoy being with people? Is he overly afraid of stimuli such as sounds or sudden movement? Most of this is common sense, and can be done by anybody without any preconceived ideas. Anything is better than saying simply, "I want a brown one with lots of spots."

There have been books and articles written on puppy selection. Some are very good, while others seem to lead readers down a long and difficult path. Most good methods use a testing procedure that measures the puppy’s responses to some sort of stimuli. This attempts to eliminate most subjectivity. We feel that there are two very good and useful books on this subject. They are straightforward and easy to use. One is written by the Monks of New Skete and is titled "The Art of Raising a Puppy" and the other is Clarice Rutherford and David Neil’s book, "How to Raise a Puppy You Can Live With." They both explain and guide you through an evaluation system of the individual animal’s personality. Both books also give an excellent treatment on the behavioral development of dogs through their first year of life. We would strongly recommend them to any prospective puppy owner.

Although we endorse these methods, remember that they only judge the puppy on that particular day during one stage in his life. Findings done on another day could vary significantly. Keep in mind also that the environment in which the animal lives and matures will greatly affect his behavior and personality as an adult. This means that you will have an opportunity to affect the puppy after he is living with you. The more time you spend with your new friend, the better chance you have of him growing into the animal you want. Regardless of the test or selection method used, you cannot expect the animal to continue to develop without your guidance.

The mystical seven weeks of age

You have picked out your puppy and paid the bill. It is six weeks of age and you want the puppy now! However, the breeder says you can not take it home for seven more days. They say they always keep the puppies with the mother and littermates until they are 49 days of age. Exactly seven weeks! While you may be mad or disappointed, in our opinion, you are very lucky. You are working with a breeder who is worried more about doing what is right for the dog than getting out of an additional week of puppy cleaning duties.

It may seem very subjective, but it has been shown by several animal behaviorists that this is what is best for the puppy. They should stay within their litter situation until they are 49 days of age and then immediately go to their new homes. Through seven weeks of age, the pups are still gaining from the interaction with their mother and littermates. This will help the puppy later in life when she is confronted by other dogs. Being in the presence of her littermates gives the puppy more confidence when she encounters new experiences. These could be anything from a loud noise, fences that need to be climbed over or through, a large object like a tree or the sound and sensation of the wind in her face.

The puppy still needs to be around people. That will never change. In fact, it is very important for a six-week-old puppy. If the breeder does not have young children play with the puppy or is running short on time, you should plan on spending time at the kennel during the next few days if it is at all possible. Your responsibilities started the day you said you wanted that puppy.

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Choosing the 'Right' Type of Dog for You

You have decided that you want to bring a dog into your life. You realize the commitment that you are making. You are willing to invest the time, energy, and money necessary to make this relationship work for you and your future dog. With those decisions behind you there are lots of questions left to answer. In choosing the type of dog you want, you need to consider your specific needs and lifestyle, the space you have, and your activity level. The breed, age, and sex of the dog will also be important factors in your decision.

The American Kennel Club recognizes over 150 breeds and there are many different shapes and styles of mixed breeds. So which one should you get? In some instances, your individual needs or lifestyle may guide you to your choice. Other people may have fewer restrictions and they are able to choose from a wide range of breeds without making a mistake.

And then do you really want a purebred? There may be advantages of choosing royalty from the "Heinz 57" clan.

Which sex will be better for you, a male or female? Does it make any difference once they are spayed or neutered?

You also need to consider whether you want to start with a puppy or an adult dog. Both have advantages and disadvantages. Usually, the time you have available combined with what you want in a dog should help you to make this last decision.

What characteristics should your new dog have?

The dog you select should be one that closely fits your lifestyle and what you perceive your needs to be. To say there is one and only one correct dog for an individual just is not so.

Does Size Make a Difference? In our practice we have as a client an eighty-year-old, 110-pound lady. Some might say that when choosing a canine companion, because of her physical structure, she should restrict herself to a lap dog. In her case, nothing would be farther from the truth. Although she has no background as a professional dog trainer, she and her 100-pound male Rottweiler get along perfectly with her always being in control. At the other end of the spectrum, we have 220-pound men that have difficulty handling their 15-pound mixed breed. People vary greatly in their ability to train and care for dogs. Their physical size, age, intelligence, financial worth, or occupation mean very little on which dog they should have.

Remember that larger breeds will cost more overall due to increase in food consumption, larger crates and beds needed, larger size toys, and increased cost for surgery and medicine.

Will Your Dog Have a Specific Purpose? The first, and most important, question you must ask yourself is what purpose your new canine companion will hopefully serve in your life. Some may acquire the animal to satisfy very specific needs. He may be used as a hunting partner in the field, a guard to protect the home through barking, or his aggressive appearance or behavior, a playmate and learning experience for children, etc. In most homes, however, the dog's role will simply be that of companionship. That is to say, he will be a four-legged friend that you enjoy being with regardless of your activity.

Every specific use or role for a dog comes with other subsets of choices. Individuals obtaining a dog for bird hunting must choose animals that are best suited for their type of hunting. Will it be for the upland field where a dog will be moving through cover all day? Some of these breeds will point the approximate location of the game (English Pointer); others will attempt to flush the bird into flight (English Springer Spaniel), while others are along for the retrieve. Some are commonly asked both to hunt for birds in the upland fields and to retrieve in water.

Some animals used to guard a home or business from intruders only need to bark and a Poodle or Bichon Frise may suffice. They are telling whoever might be out there that it is impossible to enter the building quietly. Other dogs in the protection field display an intimidating appearance. Few breeds fill this bill better than a Doberman Pinscher or Rottweiler with lips curled back exposing their teeth. Other dogs that work in actual law enforcement capacities must sometimes be able to truly depend and protect with their physical abilities. This will probably mean a large dog that has the ability to knock a man off his feet.

If the dog is acquired for companionship alone, he can come with an infinitely wide range of characteristics as to size, hair coat, general appearance, and behavior. Almost any member of the canine species regardless of his lineage would be acceptable.

What is Your Activity Level? Your activity level dictates to a certain degree what type of a dog will best fit with you. A jogger can handle almost any breed providing the dog can keep up with him. A backpacker that hopes his four-legged friend can carry part of the weight needs a strong but not necessarily large counterpart. An elderly person that wants a lap dog certainly would not choose a Saint Bernard.

How much Space Do You Have? The amount of space available to the pet should also be considered as it relates to the activity level and overall size of the dog. Someone who has a rural home surrounded by 80 acres can probably accommodate any breed, while the person living in a fifth floor, one room apartment may not want a 200-pound Great Dane. Please understand that over ninety percent of the dogs owned by Americans today are housedogs, i.e., they spend the vast majority of their life within the owner’s home. If this will be your situation, look at your home and yard and be realistic about the amount of exercise your pet can achieve within those confines. Remember that before they partnered with us, dogs in their natural state spent all of their time outside. They led very active lives and only a few of those living with us today have given up very much of their natural desire for exercise.

A small, active dog is obviously easier to accommodate than a large one, but sometimes size will be found to be a moderator of behavior. A Yorkshire Terrier may seem, and probably does, go ninety-miles-per-hour all day long. However, adults of one of the giant breeds like a Saint Bernard typically sleep 16 to 18 hours a day. That is why some larger breeds often do so well in apartments or smaller homes – as long as exercise is provided in the form of long walks or runs in the dog park on a daily basis.

How much Grooming Are You Willing to Do? Most dogs with longer hair coats need more care. Longhaired dogs are usually a disaster if they are outside in long grass, weeds, or brush. Their coats become matted and filled with everything they can snare. This may entail special grooming and frequent trimming, brushing, or baths. Some owners enjoy keeping their pet looking her best, while others consider it a burdensome chore. In either case, while this may not be a problem while the animal is a puppy, later in life, she will require additional time or expenses from the owner.

Is the Sex of the Dog Important to You? Many future pet owners take little consideration into whether they get a male or female.

Is the Age of the Dog Important to You? For most prospective owners, getting a dog means bringing home a two-month-old puppy. This is a decision that you need to think through carefully. For some first-time dog owners a puppy is the worst possible choice.

There are disadvantages in starting out with a puppy versus an adult dog. It is always more difficult to determine the ultimate personality of any dog when he is evaluated during his first few weeks of life. Remember that if we use the old adage about one year in a dog’s life is equal to seven or more years in that of a human, then a seven-week-old puppy you may be looking at is approximately a year old in human terms. Anyone would admit that it is nearly impossible to judge a human's personality from what you are seeing as they lie in their crib.

Many experienced dog fanciers and trainers would remind us that this is a two-edged sword. While we may not be able to predict the future personality of the puppy, by starting with a dog of this age, we will be able to have a greater effect on his development and ultimate behavior. Dogs are just like people in that many traits of their personality are a result of their genetic background. However, they are also a product of their surroundings. A puppy that finds himself in a loving home with lots of attention will probably turn out much differently than a littermate that was tied to a tree in the backyard and whose only exposure to humans comes in a once-a-day feeding. By choosing a puppy, you have the potential to have a much greater effect on their personality than if you started with an adult.

Selecting a puppy versus an adult typically means you will spend a lot more time in training. That includes everything from housebreaking through leash training and verbal commands. Additionally, puppies have to grow through some less-than-delightful phases such as eating shoes, chewing on everything in sight, frequent trips to the veterinarian for vaccinations and wormings, additional expenses for neutering, and so on. The selection of an adult dog bypasses most of these. Without exception, dogs take a lot more of your time during their first year of life. To many, this is the best part and they love the involvement – other potential owners simply struggle to find the extra time.

Puppies, even with all their additional requirements, are usually more expensive to purchase. There simply is a greater demand for them. They are cute, very appealing bundles of joy and in America it has become the typical method of acquiring a new dog. Many breeders have a long waiting list of prospective buyers. Older dogs on the other hand are often given up because their owners discovered they could not give the time required or realized that having a dog was not for them. Adults are not as cute as puppies and the market for them is much smaller. Typically, they do not command high prices. In fact, many go "free to a good home."

There are several advantages in choosing an older dog versus a puppy. One is the predictability of what you will have in the future. The model you will have for the next several years is standing right in front of you. You can judge his temperament, size, whether he will shed excessively or not, etc. Additionally, with the help of your veterinarian, you can determine if he has any medical problems such as hip dysplasia. With a puppy, we can sometimes only guess if conditions such as these will develop later in his life, but when examining an adult, most of these problems have already reached a diagnosable stage even if the animal is not yet showing signs. Ideally, the breeder or current owner of an adult dog would allow you to take the adult on a two-week trial basis to see if the dog will work out in your household, and take the dog back with no questions asked if things do not work out during that time.

Do You Want a Purebred or Mixed-Breed Dog? Should your new dog be a purebred or a mixed breed? For many, the answer to this question is obvious because subconsciously they are only thinking about purebred dogs. The thought of having anything else never even enters their mind. When they were growing up, their parents had English Setters so they automatically look for an English Setter.

It is ironic that many future dog owners seek out a purebred without any idea of what breed they might want. They never consider a mixed or "Heinz 57." Before you leap into a selection between the 150 or so currently listed and officially recognized breeds, you need to understand the differences and pros and cons of a "canine blue-blood" versus what is often referred to as a mongrel.

There are differences between purebred and mixed breed dogs, but they are mostly in what the buyer wants or perceives. Several hundred years ago humans started with wild or free-roaming canines and brought them into their lives. Originally, they were used to help us with our work. In various parts of the world, different basic models as to shape and size were used for these initial transformations into domestication. Over the years, dogs have become less important as a working partner and most are simply thought of as a companion. Regardless of their role in our world, from the very start, we have continually tried to alter the dog's abilities, behavior, size, shape, color, conformation, etc., to fit some purpose or goal that we had. This was done through selective breeding. At some point in time, a standard is established and these animals are sanctioned as a unique breed. With the stroke of a pen on an official looking document, they are transformed from a mixed breed to a purebred.

Possible advantages of purebreds: If you are seeking a dog and need it for a specific purpose, you may be better off choosing a purebred that has been selectively bred with those traits in mind. While it is often said that any dog can be trained to do anything, you may be wiser to use the years of experience and efforts of others than try to start on your own. For example, someone who is interested in showing, herding, hunting, scent work, or other specific tasks would be better off choosing a dog from one of the breeds that have been devoted to those specialized fields. Through generations of selective breeding, these traits have been refined and strengthened well past those found in the general population of dogs.

For some people, their choice as to which dog they should get is based on their own physical makeup or problems. If a respiratory condition or allergy means you should not be around dogs that shed excessively, you should select a breed that is appropriate for your own health. Certain kinds of dogs are well known for their non-shedding characteristics. In reality, they do shed, but generally much less than typical breeds. Examples are the various Poodles and Schnauzers. In these situations in which a specific physical trait such as the amount that an animal sheds is important in your dog, it is probably better to choose a purebred. It would be very difficult, if not impossible to predict, the degree of shedding that a mixed breed puppy will display as an adult.

Some dog owners find certain dogs more attractive than others and simply must have one that looks like that. It would be foolish for them to choose a different breed or one of mixed lineage. If someone knows what they want their dog to look like as an adult, but are starting with a puppy, they need to choose a member of that breed to ensure they get what they want a year later.

Some dog breeds are known for having certain personalities or behavior patterns. You can select one that matches yours or what you would prefer to see in your pet. Golden Retrievers are known for their laid-back, calm personalities. To some, that is the perfect dog. Others, however, would prefer a more out going, excitable dog. Still, others might want an animal for protection of their home. Certain lines of some breeds have been bred for this type of work and are therefore a natural choice.

An excellent book that describes the various breeds is "The Complete Dog Book" by the American Kennel Club. It can be found in most book or pet stores and catalogs. Buying a purebred animal in no way guarantees what you will get. It may increase your chances of matching you with your goal, but that is all.

Some advantages of mixed breeds: Keep in mind when thinking about purebred dogs that many man-made alterations in the basic structure and behavior from the original historical canine model have brought along some disadvantages. Some dogs, especially those with short noses that at times seem to be pushed back into their heads, may have difficulty breathing or giving birth to their puppies naturally. Excessively large or giant breeds usually have shorter life spans, often by several years. Breeds with excessive skin folds are generally more prone to bacterial skin infections.

In other purebreds, harmful or unwanted characteristics have arisen. Whenever breeders select for one trait they may unknowingly select for many others. Hip dysplasia is a degenerative and often severely debilitating disease of the hip joint of dogs. It is transmitted from one generation to the next through genetics. This condition is rare in wild dogs. Any condition that decreases the overall ability of a wild animal to compete in their world is quickly eliminated through natural selection. However, through human engineered selective processes, this condition has become common in several breeds. Breeding has, it would seem, unknowingly potentiated the genetically transferred information that controls this disease. Today, concerned and ethical breeders work very hard to eliminate undesirable traits from their breeds. They truly care about the animals they produce and their future.

When considering your choice between a purebred and mixed breed, do not forget the cost. Purebred puppies have been known to cost $300 to $3000 depending on the particular lines and breed. Mixed breed models are usually free or go for only a small adoption fee. In some households, this can mean the difference between getting a dog or not. We promise you, the child that receives his first puppy will rarely care about his color, hair coat, size, or the price paid.

Summary

The dog you bring home will hopefully be a part of your life for several years. For this partnership to be the best for both of you, it is important you make the right choice.

If you feel you do not have the knowledge to make these decisions, talk to dog breeders, trainers, veterinarians, and other pet owners. All people, whether they are specialists or not, love to talk about their animals and there is a wealth of information available just for the asking. Read as much as you can about the different types or breeds of dogs. We have been brief here, but 99% of the breeds listed by the American Kennel Club have had several books devoted just to them. Today, there are also hundreds and hundreds of good books and magazine articles dealing with every phase of pet ownership.

Sometime in this process take time to consider the needs of the dog. Consider your surroundings and lifestyle. Make sure the dog fits into the environment you will be able to provide. Remember the word relationship and how it is a two way street with each party making both commitments and compromises. In this case, the majority of these burdens will fall on your shoulders. And that is fair because you are the one who gets to make all the choices.

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Myths about Spaying & Neutering

I heard that neutered and spayed dogs get fat and lazy. Is this true?

Spaying and neutering does change the metabolism of companion animals, so in most cases, they do not need as much food to maintain their weight as unspayed/unneutered dogs. The problem is not with the dog - it is us. We just tend to overfeed our dogs, and neutered/spayed dogs are more apt to put on weight because of that.

As for laziness, again, the amount of exercise our dogs receive and their activity levels are often dependent on us. If we do not give them opportunities for play and exercise, they can become couch potatoes just like some people. Many spayed/neutered dogs hunt, are entered in agility shows, become service dogs, and are trained in search and rescue. These dogs are anything but lazy.

My veterinarian recommended I spay my new puppy and she is only two months old. Is that safe?

Early spaying/neutering has been shown to be safe in multiple studies. It must be remembered that younger animals may need different anesthetics and are more prone to hypothermia (lower than normal body temperature) during surgery. But as long as procedures are modified to account for these differences, early neutering is very safe. In fact, puppies neutered at a younger age often have faster recoveries than those neutered when they are older.

I was told I should let my dog go through one heat before I have her spayed. Is that what you recommend?

We recommend that dogs be spayed before they have a heat. There are several reasons for this:

  • Spaying a dog before her first heat is the best way to significantly reduce the chance your dog will develop breast cancer, a common condition in female dogs. The risk of malignant mammary tumors in dogs spayed prior to their first heat is 0.05%. It is 8% for dog spayed after one heat, and 26% in dogs spayed after their second heat.
  • Any heat brings with it a chance your dog could become pregnant. This would adversely affect the health of a young dog.
  • A heat also brings with it the chance for accidents. Dogs in heat have been known to run through glass patio doors, jump out of moving cars, and be hit by cars as they attempt to find a mate.
  • Owners of females in heat also frequently have to deal with a sudden influx of male dogs around the home and yard. These amorous visitors leave numerous droppings, and spray plants and trees with urine in an attempt to mark their new found territory. There is also the mess and hassle of vaginal bleeding that typically goes on for 7 to 14 days. Who wants to deal with that if they do not have to?

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Nametags: The Best Insurance for Lost Pets

The saddest part about losing a pet is that it could often have been prevented with some sort of identification. Over and over again we hear from our customers that a nametag was the reason they were reunited with their lost dog or cat. The proper ID tag with your name and contact information can save you hours of grief-stricken searching.

Choose a tag that appeals to you and contains any necessary information needed to safely and quickly return your pet to you:

  • Telephone numbers (day/evening/cell)
  • Any medical problem requiring medication (may require separate tag)
  • Veterinarian's name and number

Nametag tips:

  1. A collar worn for purposes of identification should remain on your dog or cat as long as he is in a situation where he could become lost.
  2. Do not use a slip collar as an identification collar because it can slip off easily. A broad buckle collar is best. The collar bearing the identification should be fastened snugly enough that it does not slip off over the animal's head.
  3. Keep important medical information - such as "diabetic" - on your pet's tags. This informs the person who finds your pet that special care and/or medication is necessary. This information may not fit on your pet's main tag, so a separate "medical tag" may be necessary.
  4. Check your pet's tags regularly. They can become lost or unreadable with wear. If this occurs, replace them as soon as possible.
  5. For travel, have a tag made just for your trip. Consider getting a special ID tag with your name, vacation address, and phone number(s), including a cell phone number. You may also include the telephone number and address of a relative or friend who knows your itinerary and will be easy to contact.
  6. Many animals are lost when owners move, and they may try returning to your former address. When you change residences, add a tag with the new information to your pet's collar. Also consider placing a temporary tag on your pet with the telephone number and address of a friend or relative that lives close to your former address.
  7. Keep an extra pet tag and collar on hand. This ensures that your pet always has identification on him, even if he loses the tag or collar he usually wears.
  • In addition to identification tags, you can use an indelible pen to write a phone number on the collar itself. You may also be able to order broad buckle nylon collars with your phone number stitched into the collar.

Collars and tags are a reliable way to identify your pet should he become lost. You may also want to make an appointment with your veterinarian to accurately identify your pet by other methods as well, such as microchipping or tattooing. Make sure your dog or cat always wears a current identification tag.

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Good Dogs Make Good City Neighbors

As a dog owner in the city, you have special responsibilities. You want your neighbors to appreciate your pup just as much as you do, but with space at a premium, and much of it shared, this may take extra effort on your part. To be a good neighbor, you and your dog need to:

Promote Pet Safety
Take the time to teach your dog to be obedient on a lead. For just tooling around town, a 4-foot lead will do. Retractable leads are also a good option, especially in parks where your pup has room to roam, but care needs to be exercised on crowded sidewalks, foot paths, or at traffic crossings.

Practice Perfect Potty Manners
In a high rise apartment, indoor housetraining may be your only practical option. Luckily, most dogs can be housetrained fairly easily, especially with aids like Piddle Pads, which contain attractants so your dog will seek out the pad when he needs to go. When you take your pet outdoors, of course, always bring a scoop and bag for cleanup.

Control Barking
Habitual barking presents many challenges. In addition to barking ordinances that can result in violations and fines, a barking dog can quickly create tension between neighbors. If you need to stop barking fast, consider an electronic collar. You can also use a sound-correction unit to startle your dog when he barks. These devices are meant as tools to augment, not replace your on-going training.

Keep Your Building Hair-Free
Heavy shedding can also occur any time of the year due to allergies, disease, or poor diet. To minimize shedding, we recommend feeding a high quality food, plus a fatty acid supplement like Vitacoat Plus, to keep his coat healthy. You can also add an egg a week to your dogs diet. If scratching from allergies is causing fur to fly, supplement with Vitacaps and Biotin. Also, use a gentle Shed Control Shampoo once a week and brush regularly.

Calm Your Pet
If your dog is anxious around strangers, don't take chances. Use a calming product like Ultra-Calm Biscuits or Rescue Remedy. These calm your pet for short periods of 1-2 hours. Owners have seen a remarkable improvement with the Comfort Zone Plug-In, which diffuses appeasing pheromones to reduce stress-related behaviors.

With care, training, and the right tools, your pet can be a popular member of your community.

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The Many Uses of Gates

A gate placed at various locations inside your house can save you a lot of frustration, can save your furnishings, and can even save your pet.

Many clients have told us what they use their gates for and here are some of their uses:

  • A gate is placed at the entrance to a room containing a litter box, a cat bed and a cat tree, allowing the cat privacy.
  • A wooden/mesh security gate is placed at the entrance to a kitchen or other non-carpeted room to contain a puppy. The gate lets the family keep an eye on the pup, makes accident clean up easy, and keeps the pup out of trouble.
  • A Walk-Thru Gate is placed at the top of the deck stairs. The dog owners can go in and out of their sliding glass doors with ease and can enjoy the company of their dog while sitting on the deck relaxing and appreciating the outdoors.
  • A Configure Gate with extensions is placed in an oddly shaped entrance to a living area. The owners are having a party and neither do they want the dog to feel totally left out, nor do they want him to eat forbidden party food or interfere with the guests.
  • An incontinent older dog needs to be confined to the kitchen when the owner is at work. This keeps his owner happy and the dog comfortable.

As you can see, well-placed gates can solve many different problems. See if a gate can solve one of yours!

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The Many Benefits of Pet Doors

Convenience for you
You'll no longer have to play doorman for your dog every time he needs to go out. The up, down, back and forth routine of letting your dog in and out all day interrupts more of your time than you probably realize. And you can sleep in on Saturday morning instead of waking up at 6:00 a.m. to a panting dog who needs to go out.

Comfort for your pet
Pets that are home alone all day while you're at work, have to "hold it" for a long time, which can be very uncomfortable at the very least.

Fewer accidents
Puppies and older pets, in particular, have a much harder time controlling their bladders for extended periods. Free access to the outdoors may eliminate the mess and odors of accidents in your home.

Exercise
Most pets don't get nearly the amount of exercise they need. Access to the outdoors where they can run and play helps keep pets active, trim, and healthy.

Save your door
Scratch marks from a dog wanting to go out or come in can ruin the appearance of your doors.

Healthy mental stimulation
The sights, sounds, and smells of the outdoors provide excellent mental stimulation to keep dogs acting younger and more alert.

Reduces boredom - related problem behavior
Bored or stressed pets often display behavior problems like chewing on furniture, tearing up pillows, or getting into food or other places they're not allowed.

EASY installation
Anyone can install a pet door - even the most "non-handy" person. All you need is a jigsaw and a screwdriver. The cutout templates and step-by-step instructions walk you through the simple process and you can have a new dog door in as little as an hour. Do you have a sliding door? Patio panels are even easier to install - and there is no cutting necessary.

For some reason, pet doors are one of those products people tend to overlook or not consider. But they really are a huge convenience, and people who do have them, love them. Today's doors have multiple locking options so you can have total control over your pets' access, plus they are made with energy-efficient seals to keep the weather out.

If you have a fence, an electronic boundary system, or some type of outdoor containment (many pet owners have a pet door leading to an outside kennel), a pet door provides many benefits you and your pet are sure to appreciate.

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Flea & Tick Control

Fleas and ticks can cause a host of problems for your dog, from flea allergy dermatitis (FAD) to Lyme disease and Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever. In large enough numbers, both ticks and fleas can cause dangerous amounts of blood loss, especially in young animals. An effective flea and tick prevention program is essential to your dog's health.

Preventing fleas and ticks from infesting your pet is much easier and less expensive than treating an existing tick or flea problem. As veterinarians, we have seen the devastating effects of Lyme disease on a beloved pet and witnessed the struggle of a house overrun with fleas. Choosing the right flea and tick products now can save you considerable time, money, and heartache in the long run.

Below is a basic overview of the types of products available to help prevent or control a flea and tick problem. Please take a moment to review our Flea & Tick Product Selection Guides, Flea & Tick Product Comparison Charts, Frequently Asked Questions and flea and tick article links, all of which are provided to help you select the flea and tick products that will best meet your needs.

Monthly Flea & Tick Treatments

Topical and Oral Monthly Preventives like Frontline Plus, Advantage or Bio Spot for Dogs are by far the most popular flea and tick control products available, because they are easy to use, have a high margin of safety, and protect against ticks and the entire flea life cycle for up to 30 days. Each combines effective flea and tick protection with a simple one-minute or less application. Easy-to-use liquid solutions are applied to your dog's skin in a bead along his back. The liquid then combines with oils on the skin's surface and moves through the haircoat to provide complete flea and tick protection. Water-safe topicals such as Frontline and Frontline Plus are perfect for dogs that swim, and offer long lasting protection that won't easily wash off. Economical Bio Spot for Dogs also provides protection against mosquitoes (carriers of West Nile virus). Finally, unlike other monthly flea and tick products, Program is an easily dispensed oral flea preventive that breaks the flea life cycle by keeping flea eggs and larvae from developing.

Flea & Tick Collars

Flea and Tick Collars provide long-lasting protection aginst fleas and ticks with no mess and no fuss. Keep ticks under control for 3 months with the easy-to-fit Preventic Tick Collar. The Adams Flea and Tick Collar has 3 active ingredients and a sustained-release system that protects against fleas and ticks for a full 6 months. The Evolution Flea Comb has rotating pins to prevent snags, and its narrowly spaced teeth make this a handy tool to help get mild flea infestations under control.

Flea & Tick Shampoos, Dips, and Sprays

Flea & Tick Shampoos, Dips, and Sprays. Seeing fleas and ticks on your pet is a sure sign of trouble. It is very important to rid your dog of these parasites before they have the chance to cause flea allergy dermatitis or to pass on tick-borne diseases. De Flea Pet Shampoo can safely be used on nursing dogs as well as pups of any age. For heavier infestations, Adams Flea & Tick Dip quickly rids your dog of fleas and ticks and leaves behind powerful protection that lasts for up to a week and also repels flies, gnats, and mosquitoes. If bath-time is stressful for you and your dog, Adams Flea & Tick Mist with Sykillstop lets you avoid the need for bathing, kills adult fleas and ticks and provides 18 weeks of residual protection against immature fleas.

Anti-Itch Treatments

Itch Relief Products. Itching from flea or tick bites can make your dog miserable and may lead to skin problems or infections caused by excessive scratching or licking. The best solution is to alleviate your pet's discomfort as soon as possible, while at the same time dealing with the ticks or fleas. Itch Stop products are available as a shampoo, salve, lotion, spray or pads, depending on your need. For dogs that need all-over relief, a soothing shampoo can be just what the doctor ordered. Oatmeal Shampoos soothe irritated skin and can help to calm the inflammation of flea allergy dermatitis.

Household & Lawn Sprays, Room Foggers

Indoor and Outdoor Flea & Tick Control Products. One of the most effective ways to protect your dog and your home from an infestation of fleas and ticks is by treating your dog's environment. For example, adult fleas spend most of their time on an animal, but flea eggs, larvae and pupae are found in abundance in the environment, especially in carpeting and rugs and under the edges of furniture. Don't forget your dog's bedding and any other area he frequents. Outdoors, your dog is at risk from the many wild animals that carry ticks and fleas-including coyotes, deer, raccoons, skunks and rabbits. Even if your dog does not come into direct contact with these animals, he can pick up ticks and fleas they've recently left behind.

Flea and tick problems can differ depending on the season, your location, your pet, and your family. Since no two dogs or families are alike, it makes sense for you to thoroughly review your options and choose the products that best suit your needs.

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Reasons Your Dog Needs a Bath

Trying to decide when and how to bathe your dog is often difficult. This is because bathing frequency depends on a number of factors: the particular breed of dog, how much time is spent outdoors, the dog's age, and any existing medical conditions, to name a few.

The fact is that when and how you bathe your dog will change throughout the year and throughout the dog's life. Here are some reasons that your dog may need a bath, as well as some bathing pointers:

  1. The dog rolled in something and smells.
    Pretty obvious right? This is actually the #1 reason that dogs get bathed. If your dog has a habit of seeking out something smelly and rolling in it, then he will need a bath right away. Use a good strong shampoo and don't be afraid to wash him twice.
  2. The dog has a doggy smell.
    An odor on the coat can often be traced to a problem with the ears, mouth, feet, or anal glands. An odor coming from the skin is often a sign of disease, such as a yeast infection. Any dog with more than a "doggy" smell should be checked by a veterinarian. For dogs with a simple doggy odor, choose a general shampoo, such as an herbal shampoo which may contain oils to help clean, moisturize and stimulate the dogs skin.
  3. The dog has dandruff.
    Dandruff may be caused by dry, irritated, or oily skin, but all of these conditions can be helped by the appropriate shampoo and a good bathing. Check with your veterinarian or groomer to determine the cause of your dog's skin condition and then choose the right shampoo.
  4. The dog has allergies.
    Bathing a dog with itchy skin from allergies can be soothing and help reduce itching. In most cases, a soothing oatmeal shampoo, or a gentle hypo-allergenic or hydrocortisone-based shampoo should be used.
  5. The dog has fleas, mites, or lice.
    Shampooing is still one of the best ways to get rid of external parasites. Make sure to work with your veterinarian and get the appropriate diagnosis and corresponding treatment.

A few other tips to remember about bathing…

  • Always use a shampoo formulated for dogs. Human shampoos have a different pH level and often use harsher detergents than pet shampoos. You can do more damage than good if you use a human shampoo on pets.
  • Start bathing your dog when it is young so bath time will be easier as your dog ages.
  • Brushing is one of the best ways to take care of your dog's skin and coat and in many cases is more important than bathing. Brushing and removing mats should always be done before the bath.
  • Fatty acid supplements added to your pet's good diet will help maintain a healthy haircoat and skin. For the best coats, we recommend daily brushing, regular baths, and supplementation with essential fatty acid supplements.

Every dog needs a bath from time to time so follow your instincts - and these tips - and your dog and your family will thank you for it.

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How to Build Bonds Between Children & Pets

There has always been a special bond between children and animals. Keep this special bond successfully alive during the holidays, the time of year that your pet and visiting children - or visiting pets and your children - will interact.

Dogs and kids

Socializing dogs to children is best done when the dog is between 5 weeks and 5 months of age. Unless you have a dog that just doesn't like kids (and there are some out there), it is never too late to train him to be child-friendly.

To begin the socialization process, encourage your children to gently play with the puppy or dog and to bring over peers so he or she learns to get along with youngsters. If you do not have children, invite neighborhood kids over to interact.

Never underestimate the power of puppy or beginning obedience classes. In these classes your canine companion will begin learning the basics of "sit," "stay," "down," and the very important "off" commands, as well as other canine manners.

Take advantage of your dog's natural pack instincts. This means that all members of the human race are above the dog in the "pack" hierarchy, and that includes children.

Here are some pack-instinct actions that speak dog language louder than words:

  • When your dog and any child enter or exit a room or house together, always make sure that the child enters or exits before the dog or pup.
  • Feed the child (and the family) before you feed the pup.
  • Make sure the child acts confidently when petting the dog: stroke along the shoulders in a straight line.
  • Invite children of all ages to play with the pup. He'll learn to be confident around children and that children are fun.

These tips can help your household - as well as any households you visit with your pet - to have a happy and safe holiday.

Teach your children well. . .

  • Children should respect that the pet is a living creature and not a toy.
  • Don't let them grab things away from the pet.
  • Be gentle, especially with little puppies and kittens.
  • No running up to strange dogs, or staring them down - these are challenges in dog language.
  • Leave the pet alone while he is eating.
  • ALWAYS supervise. You should never leave a pet alone with a child.

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Choosing a Boarding Facility

Many times people will go on a vacation, a business trip, or have a family emergency and need to find someone to care for their pet(s). It is not always as easy as just taking the pet to a family member's home or having a neighbor drop in. There are several other possibilities when you need someone to care for your pet including:

Veterinary clinics

Some veterinary clinics will board clients' dogs. This may be an ideal situation, especially if your dog has a certain medical condition, such as diabetes, that requires medication. You may wish to ask some of the same questions as listed below under 'Boarding kennels.'

Dog sitters

In some areas, pet sitters are available. They are people that either stay at your house while you are gone or stop in during the day to care for your dog. Have the prospective sitter come to your home for an interview, and consider:

  • How do they relate to the pet(s)?
  • If they cannot stay at the house, how frequently can they come (2 times a day or more depending upon the health status of your dog), and when?
  • Will they perform other household tasks such as taking in the mail and paper?
  • Are they willing, and do they know how, to give medications?
  • Will they be able to perform the necessary tasks such as walking the dog, etc?
  • How much experience do they have, and do they have references?
  • Are they acquainted with the veterinarians and the emergency clinic(s) in the area?
  • How do they answer questions you may pose such as, What would you do if the dog vomits frequently?

Boarding kennels

Boarding kennels may be at someone's home or at a separate business location. Make an appointment and have a tour of the facility and talk with the staff. Find out:

  • What are the sizes of the kennels or runs? Do they have solid partitions between them? Are there both indoor and outdoor facilities?
  • How frequently, where, and for how long are the dogs walked?
  • Are the kennels, runs, and exercise areas clean and free from excrement? Does the kennel or exercise area smell?
  • How often are the kennels, dishes cleaned, and with what? How are the kennels cleaned between boarders?
  • Will they bathe your dog if he becomes soiled with urine or excrement?
  • What is the regular feeding schedule, and can it be adapted if your dog has special needs? Can you bring the dog's regular food?
  • Who actually works with the animals?
  • What are their admit and pick up hours? What if your return is delayed?
  • Which vaccinations are required, and which are recommended? Are vaccinations that you administered acceptable or do they need to be given by a veterinarian?
  • Is there a veterinarian or emergency clinic nearby?
  • Is there a time you can call to check on how your dog is doing?
  • What are their security provisions? Do the kennels and cages have good latches? Are the fences to the outdoor runs at least 6 feet high?
  • Is the facility accredited by the American Boarding Kennels Association?

Conclusion

As with finding other providers, ask your veterinarian, family, and friends for their recommendations when choosing a boarding facility. Regardless of the boarding facility/sitter you decide on, make reservations far in advance, if possible. Many facilities are fully booked four to six months in advance for times such as Christmas or spring break. If you are taking your dog away from home for boarding, ask if you can bring a dog bed, toys, or your sweatshirt to put in with the pet. This may make the time away from home less stressful for your pet. Knowing your dog is in good hands and being well-cared for will make your trip less stressful for you.

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Canine Vaccine Product Chart

 

Canine Vaccine Product Chart
Drs. Foster & Smith Educational Staff

 

Canine
Vaccines
Canine Distemper Distemper (Measles) Hepatitis Parvovirus Adenovirus Cough Parainfluenza Leptospirosis Coronavirus Bordetella Lyme Check=Protected by, ML=Modified Live, K=Killed
5-way vaccines
ML
ML
ML
ML
ML
ML
K,
1-4
**
K
ML
K
Manufacturer's
Recommendations*
Min. Age Booster
AVAIL-
ABLE IN:
Duramune Max 5 (Fort Dodge)
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
6 wks Every 2-3 wks to 12 wks old 25 dose box
Vanguard Plus 5 (Pfizer)
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
6 wks Total of 3 doses, each 3 wks apart 25 dose box
5-way vaccines plus coronavirus
Duramune Max 5-CvK (Fort Dodge)
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
6 wks Every 2-3 wks to 12 wks old 25 dose box
Vanguard 5/CV (Pfizer)
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
6 wks 3-4 wks later and at 4 mths old 25 dose box
Vanguard Plus 5/CV (Pfizer)
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
6 wks 3-4 wks later and at 4 mths old 25 dose box
7-way vaccines
Duramune Max 5/4L (Fort Dodge)
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
4
**
6 wks Every 2-3 wks to 12 wks old 25 dose box
Vanguard 5/L (Pfizer)
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
2
**
6 wks 3-4 wks later and at 4 mths old 25 dose box
Vanguard Plus 5/L (Pfizer)
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
2
**
6 wks Total of 3 doses, each 3 wks apart 25 dose box
7-way vaccines plus coronavirus
Duramune Max
5-CvK/4L
(Fort Dodge)
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
4
**
yes
6 wks Every 2-3 wks to 12 wks old 25 dose box
Vanguard Plus 5/CVL (Pfizer)
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
2
**
yes
6 wks 3-4 wks later and at 4 mths old 25 dose box
Measles combination vaccine
Vanguard DA2MP (Pfizer)
Given Intramuscularly
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
6 wks also give parvo; booster with 5 or 7 way 25 dose box
Parvovirus and/or coronavirus vaccines
Prevent/Vac® Parvovirus (Biocor)
yes
9 wks Every 2-4 wks to 18 wks old SINGLE DOSE or 15 dose box
Duramune Max PV (Fort Dodge)
yes
6 wks Every 2-3 wks to 12 wks old 10 dose vial
Prevent/Vac® Coronavirus KV (VacciCel)
yes
6 wks Every 2-3 wks to 12 wks old SINGLE DOSE
Duramune Cv-K
(Fort Dodge)
yes
6 wks Every 2-3 wks to 12 wks old 10 dose vial
Duramune Max PC (Fort Dodge)
yes
yes
6 wks Every 2-3 wks to 12 wks old 10 dose vial
Bordetella and/or parainfluenza
Intra-Trac II ADT (Schering)
NOSE DROPS - NOT INJECTABLE
yes
yes
3 wks Every 6-12 mths 25 dose box
Kennel Jec-2 (Durvet)
NOSE DROPS - NOT INJECTABLE
yes
yes
3 wks Every 6-12 mths single
Lyme vaccine
Lymevax
(Fort Dodge)
yes
9 wks 2-3 wks after initial dose 10 dose vial or 50 dose box

*These are the manufacturer's recommendations for the age at when to start vaccinating and the booster schedule. Your veterinarian may have different recommendations for minimum age, boosters, and annual vaccinations based on the breed, health status, and potential of the dog to be exposed to the disease. Many veterinarians do not recommend the use of a leptospirosis vaccine (7-way or 8-way) in dogs less than 12 weeks of age. See Vaccination Schedule for Dogs.

**Number of strains included.

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Deworming Guidelines for Dogs & Puppies

Strategic deworming is a practice recommended by the American Association of Veterinary Parasitologists (AAVP) and the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC).

Deworming Guidelines

Deworming history of newly acquired puppies should be obtained to determine whether additional deworming is needed.

Puppies

Initiate treatments at 2 weeks; repeat at 4, 6, and 8 weeks of age.
For a puppy at increased risk, also treat at 10 and 12 weeks, and then monthly until the puppy is 6 months old.
Thereafter, use a heartworm preventive medication that is also effective against hookworms and roundworms.

Nursing Dams

Treat concurrently with pups.

Adult Dogs

Treat regularly for prevention. Also monitor and eliminate parasites in pet's environment.

Newly Acquired Animals

Worm immediately; repeat in 2 weeks, then follow above recommendations.

 

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Starting Your Pet on a New Food

When feeding your pet a new food, introduce it slowly. If you feed too much too soon, your pet could suffer from stomach upset, vomiting, excess gas, constipation, or diarrhea.

Intestinal Bacteria Play An Important Role

Normal bacteria in the intestine help your dog or cat digest food. A sudden change in food can result in changes to the number and type of bacteria and their ability to help digest food. These changes can lead to intestinal upset. Therefore, your pet must be switched to a new food slowly.

A Gradual Change is Best

Switching to a new food should be done gradually over the course of 7-10 days. For example, make a mixture that contains 25% of the new food and 75% of the old food and feed that for three days. Then make it 50-50 for three more days, then 75% new food and 25% old food for three more days. If your pet seems comfortable with this progression, you can start feeding 100% new food.

If at any time your dog or cat starts vomiting, has loose stools, or appears constipated, slow the rate at which you are switching the food. And as always, if problems continue to occur, consult your veterinarian.

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Choosing the Best Food for your Dog

Choosing a dog food in today's extensive pet food market can prove challenging. With the vast array of choices in today's pet food market, how can you tell which food is best?

Factors to address before selecting a dog food

  • Your dog's age/life stage - make sure you choose a food that's nutritionally geared to your dog's age (puppy, adult, or senior).
  • Your dog's body condition - dogs who are overweight or underweight need different nutrition than those who are not. Dogs who get lots of exercise also have different nutritional requirements. Choose a food that fits your dog's needs, whether it's weight control, performance, maintenance, or another formula.
  • Your dog's health history - if your dog has medical conditions such as diabetes, allergies, cancer, or digestive difficulties, you'll need to choose a food that is appropriate for that condition.
  • Your budget - simply put, feed your dog the best food you can afford. Generally, the more you spend, the better-quality, healthier food you'll feed.

Consider Your Dog's Preferences

Keep in mind that no one food is best for every dog. Dogs are individuals, just like people. Some dogs prefer dry food, some canned. Some dogs prefer chicken, some prefer lamb. You could feed a brand of very well-formulated food to a group of dogs and find that most of them do great on it, some do marginally well, and a few actually get sick from it. Luckily, today's market offers many well-formulated dog foods for dogs at all life stages, and it's fine to try several to determine which one works best for your dog.

Look Closely at Ingredients

When you're shopping for a healthy food for your dog, the ingredient list on the back of the bag is a good place to start. By law, pet food labels must list their ingredients in order by weight. Look for dog foods with meat, fish, or eggs listed as the first ingredient. These are very digestible, and if they are listed as the first ingredient, you can assume the food offers a good-quality protein source, and includes several valuable, usable amino acids. If you are switching to a new food, be sure to allow ample time for your dog to adjust to it.

Categories of Pet Foods

When searching for your dog's next food, keep in mind that pet food is now available in three major categories: "grocery store" foods, premium foods, and healthy foods.

  • "Grocery store" foods - those found in grocery stores and mass-market retailers - are typically made with lower-quality, less-digestible, inexpensive ingredients and are therefore a cheaper alternative. While easy on the pocketbook, "grocery store" foods normally do not provide your dog with the healthiest, most nutrient-dense ingredients.
  • Premium foods - often found in grocery stores, pet stores, and veterinarian offices - contain higher-grade ingredients, but may still include some elements of "grocery store" food, such as artificial colors, artificial flavors, chemical preservatives, and "filler" ingredients. Premium foods are usually more expensive than "grocery store" foods because their ingredients are of a higher quality, and are therefore somewhat more beneficial and digestible.
  • Healthy foods - the newest addition to the pet food market - provide pets with the highest quality, healthiest, and most nutritious ingredients. They are typically available for purchase online or direct from the manufacturer. Foods in the Healthy class - including Solid Gold, Wellness, Canidae, and others - contain nutrient-rich ingredients.

Formulated to provide optimum health benefits for pets, these foods often use whole, fresh fruits and vegetables, real meat as the primary protein source, and carbohydrate-rich whole grains like brown rice and barley. They should not contain artificial preservatives, flavors, or colors. They will almost always be fortified with additional vitamins and minerals, and will use the best natural sources for fatty acids to help build healthy skin and a beautiful coat. Because healthy foods use high quality ingredients, you should expect to pay a little more than you would for other types of pet food. Remember, though, with healthy foods you can generally feed less since healthy foods are more nutrient-dense than other types of food.

Check your dog's health after a month

After you've done all you can to make sure a food is healthy and beneficial, take a look at your dog after feeding the food for at least a month. Bright eyes, a shiny coat, and a healthy energy level will let you know you've chosen a good source for your dog's nutrition. If you need assistance selecting a food for your dog, seek veterinary/professional advice.

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Bad Behavior May Not be a Training Problem

Is your dog changing? Does he seem to be challenging you? Is he reluctant to be patted or picked up? Is your dog becoming destructive? These behaviors, on the surface, may seem to indicate a behavior problem that a little extra training may help. But before you begin re-training, consider that your dog may be experiencing health problems.


For instance:

  • Growling and snapping could be caused by pain due to injury, arthritis, or another illness
  • Turning over the garbage can or any change in eating or drinking habits may have to do with the onset of a hormonal disease such as diabetes
  • Reluctance to being picked up may happen because of aches and pains associated with many diseases, including some cancers and arthritis
  • If an older dog suddenly becomes destructive or incontinent, does not appear to be listening to you, or does not recognize you at times, this may have to do with the onset of dementia. This may also be caused by hearing or sight loss associated with aging
  • Incontinence may also indicate kidney disease, a bladder infection, or arthritis
  • Inappropriate barking may also indicate a vision or hearing problem. It may also indicate dementia in older dogs.

So, if your dog is not himself, consider a veterinary visit first to determine whether it may be a physical problem. With the wide variety of treatments available today ranging from using pheromones to nutraceutics and prescription medications, you may be able to help your canine companion be his old self again.

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Why Do Dogs Eat Feces?

Some dogs, especially those in kennel situations, may eat feces because they are anxious or stressed. One researcher suggests that dogs who have been punished by their owners for defecating inappropriately start to think any defecation is wrong, so they try to eliminate the evidence.

Another theory is that coprophagy (stool eating) is a trait passed down through the ages. Dogs' cousins, wolves and coyotes, may often eat feces if food is in short supply. Feces from herbivores (plant eaters) contain many vital B vitamins. Some researchers suggest that wolves (and some dogs) may eat feces to replenish their vitamin supply.

Dogs who eat their feces usually do not have a dietary deficiency. Some medical problems, however, can contribute to coprophagy including severe disorders of the pancreas (pancreatic insufficiency) or intestine, severe malnutrition from massive parasitic infestations, or starvation. These cases are rare.

In some instances, coprophagy may be a behavior learned from watching other animals. It may also become a habit in the course of play and puppies having to try out the taste of everything.

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Car Sickness & Fear of Riding in Cars

'Not every dog loves a face-in-the-wind car ride.'

For some dogs, car rides produce a great deal of anxiety. A combination of fear and not understanding what is happening will cause drooling, shaking, or even vomiting in some dogs and cats. In humans, we refer to this as car sickness or motion sickness; however, true motion sickness is a result of an inner ear problem. Some dogs truly do have motion sickness, and for these animals products such as Dramamine can be used under the supervision of a veterinarian. For most dogs, however, the sickness is strictly an over-reaction to the fear and apprehension of the car noise, motion, etc. If your dog would rather be anywhere besides in the car, here is how you can help her overcome the fear of car rides.

  1. Get your dog used to the car environment. Get in the car together and have a treat. Talk. Be happy. Make it a fun time. Do not have the car running, just share a treat and make it a positive experience. Repeat this a number of times on different occasions. You may want to feed your dog in the car. If your dog is afraid of even getting into the car, try feeding or giving a treat close to the car.
  2. Get your dog used to the car while it is running. Repeat step one, only this time start the car. Give a treat before and after. If she looks or acts nervous, reassure her that everything is OK. Take your time and make sure she is relaxed before ending the session.
  3. Get your dog used to the motion of the moving car. Once she is used to the car running without any fearful reaction, back the car to the end of the driveway, then forward again to the garage. Give her a treat and praise her. Repetition is the key. The more you do this the more confident your dog becomes that cars are no problem. In fact, to her it becomes a great place for attention, praise, and even treats.
  4. Now it is time to take a short trip around the block. Treats and praise before and after, and calm, reassuring talk throughout the ride are a pre-requisite. Gradually increase the distance traveled until your dog is calm no matter how long she's in the car.

Some animals still need something to calm them. There are non-prescription products such as Serene-um, Pet Calm, and Rescue Remedy. In severe cases, even stronger prescription anti-anxiety medications can be dispensed by your veterinarian.

Get puppies used to the car while they are still young and are more receptive to new adventures. Dogs make excellent traveling companions so it is well worth the training now for the years of enjoyment it will bring both of you once you get over this obstacle together.

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Fear of Thunderstorms and Noise Phobias

What causes fear of storms and other noises?

It is unknown why some pets become afraid of noises; it is a common problem in dogs, but less so in cats. The fear can soon become a phobia, which is defined as A persistent, excessive, and irrational fear response. In the case of thunderstorms, pets may also be fearful of storm-associated events such as a change in barometric pressure, lightning, electrostatic disturbances, and even smells associated with the storms. Noise phobias can include fear of thunderstorms, firecrackers, gunshots, and even the sound of birds.

A recent study has found that certain breeds have an above average risk of developing noise phobias. These include some of the working and sporting breeds such as Collies, German Shepherds, Beagles, and Basset Hounds. This survey was quite small, however, and more research needs to be done in this area. The study also found that dogs who had separation anxiety were more likely to also have noise and thunderstorm phobias.

A noise phobia may be traced to a particular bad experience of a noise, but often, no triggering event can be ascertained. In almost all instances, the fear of noises and storms escalates, worsening with each exposure. Soon the pet may become fearful of similar sounds or events associated with the noise. For example, a pet afraid of thunder may also become afraid of rain, or a dog afraid of gunshots may show fear at the mere sight of a hunting rifle.

The owner's attitude can influence the severity of the fear. For instance, if owners themselves are nervous during storms, noise phobias in their pets may occur more often or become more severe. Similarly, if the owner attempts to comfort the animal, the animal interprets it as confirming there really is something to be afraid of. The petting or comforting is really positive reinforcement of an undesirable behavior.

What are the signs of noise phobia?

Different animals may display different signs of noise phobias which include:

  • Hiding (most common sign in cats)
  • Urinating
  • Defecating
  • Chewing
  • Panting
  • Pacing
  • Trying to escape (digging, jumping through windows or going through walls, running away)
  • Drooling
  • Seeking the owner
  • Expressing anal glands
  • Not eating
  • Not listening to commands
  • Trembling or shaking
  • Dilated pupils
  • Vocalizing (barking or meowing)

Consult with a veterinarian experienced in animal behavior problems, and/or an animal behaviorist if your pet is showing signs of noise phobia. They can help develop a treatment plan for your pet.

How is noise phobia treated?

There is no "cure" for noise phobia, but there are ways to try to reduce the fear. First, refrain from giving rewards or punishment. This is extremely important. Petting, consoling, or even saying, "It's OK," may be interpreted by the pet as a reward for the fearful response. In the event of comforting a dog during a storm, for example, it may signal to the pet that the storm really is something he should be afraid of. Similarly, the pet should not be punished for showing fear. This will only increase his anxiety level. Usually treatment includes three other facets: medications, changing the environment, and behavior modification.

Administer medications: Medications may be given individually or in combination. In some instances, the medication may be administered during an entire thunderstorm season. Others may be given when a storm or noisy event (Fourth of July fireworks) is expected. A common protocol is to give amitriptyline during the storm season, and valium when a storm is predicted. The valium or other quick-acting medication needs to be given prior to the development of any behavioral or physical signs of anxiety. If there is a chance of a storm predicted for the afternoon, the pet should start receiving the valium or similar medication in the morning. Pets who also exhibit separation anxiety may need a different combination of medications. Several combinations may need to be tried before the optimum regimen for a particular animal is determined. Many of the medications that would be used on a daily basis, e.g.; Amitriptyline, Prozac, and Buspirone, may take 3-4 weeks to see an effect. Examples of medications used include:

  • Alprazolam (Xanax)
  • Amitriptyline (Elavil)
  • Buspirone (Buspar)
  • Clomipramine (Clomicalm)
  • Clorazepate (Tranxene)
  • Diazepam (Valium)
  • Fluoxetine (Prozac)
  • Inderal
  • Paroxetine (Paxil)
  • Tranxene-SD

Alternative therapies have also been used with some success. These include melatonin and flower essences such as Rescue Remedy. These two therapies take effect within an hour of administration, and should be given prior to the storm or other fear-producing event.

Change environment: By changing the environment of the animal during the storm or noise, the anxiety level can be reduced. Changing the environment may reduce the volume level of the sound or help make the pet less aware of it.

Increase vigorous exercise: The pet should receive vigorous exercise daily, and more so on a day when the fear-producing noise is likely to occur. The exercise will help to tire the animal, both mentally and physically, and may make her less responsive to the noise. In addition, exercise has the effect of increasing natural serotonin levels, which can act as a sedative.

Reduce or block the noise level: "White noise," such as running a fan or air conditioner may aid in blocking out some of the fear-producing noise. Playing a TV or radio can have a similar effect. Allowing the pet access to the basement or a room without outside walls or windows may decrease the noise level. Closing the windows and curtains can also help reduce the noise. Some owners have placed foam earplugs or cotton balls in their pets' ears.

Create a safe haven: Some pets feel more comfortable in a small space such as a crate or a small room like a bathroom (run the fan and leave the lights on). Some pets seek out the safety of the bathtub or shower during a storm. (Some have hypothesized that a pet may feel less static electricity if on tile or porcelain.) If the pet is comfortable in a crate, the crate can be covered with a blanket to add to the feeling of security. The door to the crate should be left open and the pet should not be confined to the crate, which could dramatically increase the stress level. Some pets, especially cats, may find that a closet or area under the bed makes a good retreat.

Project a calm attitude: Pets are very aware of the mental state of their owners. If you are worried or nervous, this will add to the pet's fear. Your pet will look to you for direction, so keep an "upbeat" and "in charge" attitude.

Maintain good health and nutrition: Health problems may increase the stress level of pets, and increase their anxiety. For instance, a dog in pain because of hip dysplasia may be more irritable and prone to other behavior changes. Diets too high in protein have been linked to some behavioral problems. Consult your veterinarian if you would like advice about changing your pet's diet.

Behavior modification: Special techniques can be used to help change the animal's response to the noise.

Counterconditioning: Using counterconditioning, the animal is taught to display an acceptable behavior rather than an unacceptable one as a response to a certain stimulus. In this way, a negative stimulus can become associated with a positive event. For instance, the only time the pet gets his most favorite treat, game, or toy, is just prior to and during a thunderstorm. Dogs who enjoy traveling may be taken for a car ride, or cats who love catnip, may be given their favorite catnip mouse. (Dogs who enjoy swimming will need to wait inside until the storm is over!) After a time, the pet will start associating an oncoming storm with getting to have his favorite thing.

Desensitization: Using desensitization, the animal's response is decreased while he is exposed to increasing levels of the fear-producing stimulus. For noise phobias, the animal is taught to be calm when the noise level is low, and then the noise level is gradually increased. This process is generally more successful in dogs than cats. To desensitize a pet to thunderstorms:

  1. Obtain a commercial tape of a storm, or tape record one yourself (commercial tapes generally work better). Play the tape at normal volume to determine if it will induce the fear response. If it does, continue with the desensitization; if not, you will need to obtain a different tape. For some animals, a tape alone may not work, since there may be a combination of occurrences that provokes fear, e.g.; thunder plus lightning or changes in barometric pressure. For these animals, darkening the room and adding strobe lights may more closely mimic the storm, and may need to be included in the desensitization process.
  2. Play the tape at a volume low enough that the pet is aware of the sound, but it does not induce a fear response. For instance, the ears may be cocked towards the tape player, but you still have the pet's attention. In some instances, that may mean the pet needs to be in a different room from where the tape is playing. While the tape is playing at the low level, engage the pet in an activity in which you give the commands, such as obedience training or performing tricks. Give food or other rewards during the activity when the pet accomplishes what he is supposed to. If the animal shows signs of fear, stop and try again the next day, playing the tape at an even lower level. It is important that the pet not be rewarded while he is fearful or anxious. Sessions should last about 20 minutes.
  3. If the animal does not respond fearfully, during the next session, increase the volume slightly. Again, involve the pet in an activity and reward it for obeying commands. Continue increasing the volume gradually for each session. If the pet starts to show fear, decrease the volume. Repeat the sessions in various rooms of the house and with various family members present.
  4. When the pet does not show fear when the tape is played at a loud volume, you may want to try playing the tape for a short time while you are absent. Gradually increase the time you are gone while the tape is playing.
  5. When the pet appears to have lost his fear, the sessions can be reduced to one per week. In most instances, these sessions will need to be repeated weekly for the life of the pet.
  6. During an actual storm, use the same activities and rewards you used in the training sessions.

To increase the chances of successful desensitization, the training process should take place during a time of the year when the actual noise will not be encountered: if the pet is afraid of thunder or fireworks, try desensitization during the winter; if afraid of gunshots, the training should take place outside of the hunting season. In most instances, it is best to discontinue any behavior-modifying medications during the desensitization process. Consult with your veterinarian before discontinuing any medications.

Conclusion

Fear of thunderstorms and other forms of noise phobia are common problems in dogs, and some cats. Administering medications along with changing the pets environment, and using behavior modification techniques can help ease the fear. Above all, do not give your pet any attention or reward when he is showing signs of fear; this will only reinforce the fearful behavior.

NOTE: Sources of thunderstorm tapes include:

Noiseshyness Cure Systems: 703-349-1039
Canine Communications: 888-459-2256 or 800-952-6517
Starfire: 540-349-1039

This list is for informational use only. Inclusion in this list does not denote product endorsement.

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Older Dogs: Common Behavior Changes

Puppies have their behavior problems, and older dogs have theirs. For older dogs, in many cases it is not that they do not understand the 'rules,' but that they may, for many reasons, be unable to follow them.

Separation anxiety

Separation anxiety is one of the most common behavior problems seen in older dogs. A dog who has separation anxiety will become very anxious when he senses his owner is about to leave. When the owner does leave, the dog often becomes destructive, barks or howls, may urinate or defecate, and may salivate profusely. A dog with separation anxiety will often be overly exhuberant when his owner returns.

Older dogs may have a decreased ability to cope with changes in routine. Vision or hearing loss may make them more anxious, overall, but especially when they are separated from the owner. Neurologic changes may also limit an older dog's ability to adjust to change.

Some of the main considerations in treating separation anxiety are:

  • Do not make a big deal about leaving or coming home - that simply reinforces the behavior.
  • Teach your dog to relax. If your dog can learn to relax in a 'stay' for extended periods while you are there, he will be more likely to learn how to relax while you are gone.
  • Change your departure cues. Many dogs know as soon as the alarm goes off, that it is a work day and you are going to leave. They start getting anxious as soon as they hear the alarm. We need to change our routine so the dog does not know we will be leaving. For instance, pick up the car keys and then go sit on the couch; on a Saturday, get up and dress like you are going to work, but stay home.
  • Start with very short departures. Determine how long you can leave your dog before he gets anxious. It may be only 10 seconds, so start there. Leave for 5 seconds, return, and if the dog has remained calm, reward him. Gradually increase the time you are gone, always returning before the dog becomes anxious, and rewarding him for staying calm. This may take weeks to months, so patience is the key.
  • Associate your departure with something good. As you leave, give your dog a hollow toy such as a 'Kong' filled with a wonderful treat. This may take his mind off of you leaving. Anxiety tends to feed on itself, so if we can prevent the anxiety from occurring when you leave, the dog may remain calm after you leave. Make sure your dog's environment is comfortable: the right temperature, a soft bed, sunlight, 'easy-listening' music. Some dogs will be more relaxed if they can see the outside world, others may become more anxious. Similarly, some older dogs are more anxious when left outdoors, and do much better when they can stay in the house. Determine what is best for your dog.
  • Break up the dog's day. If you are gone for extended periods during the day, you may want to think about having someone come in during the day to let your dog out and give him some exercise. Older dogs, especially, may need to go outside more often to urinate and defecate. Giving them this opportunity may decrease their anxiety.
  • Crate your dog. Many dogs feel safe in a crate, and being in a crate will help reduce their destructiveness. This will make it safer for them and your house.
  • Use a team approach. Anti-anxiety medications such as Clomicalm are often needed to break the cycle of separation anxiety. Medication alone, however, will not solve the problem. Work with your veterinarian and an animal behaviorist to develop a plan that will work best for you and your dog.

Aggression

Older dogs may become aggressive for several reasons. Aggression may be the result of a medical problem such as one causing pain (arthritis or dental disease), vision or hearing loss, which results in the dog being easily startled, lack of mobility so the dog can not remove himself from the irritating stimulus (e.g.; an obnoxious puppy), or diseases having direct effects on the nervous system, such as cognitive dysfunction (see below). Stresses such as moving, a new family member, or a new pet may make an older dog more irritable and more likely to be aggressive. In a multi-dog household, an older dog who was the 'dominant' dog in the past, may find his authority being challenged by younger dogs in the household.

By determining what factors may be contributing to the aggression, we may be able to eliminate or reduce those factors. Treating medical conditions which contribute to the aggression is paramount. Watch the dog for signs of stress (increased panting), and remove the dog from the stressful situation which could cause aggression. Using a 'halti' headcollar and leash may provide more control over an older dog, especially one who has decreased hearing or vision. In some cases, a basket muzzle may be needed to assure the safety of human and non-human family members. DO NOT LEAVE A MUZZLED DOG UNATTENDED. Medications can be helpful in reducing aggression that may be due to fear and anxiety. As with separation anxiety discussed above, medication alone will not solve the problem. Work with your veterinarian and an animal behaviorist to develop a plan that will work best for you and your dog.

House Soiling

Some older dogs who have been housetrained for years, may start having 'accidents.' As with other behavior problems in older dogs, there may be multiple causes for this change in behavior. Medical conditions which result in an increased frequency of urination or defecation may be the underlying cause for this behavior problem. These conditions include: colitis, inflammatory bowel disease, diabetes mellitus, bladder stones or infections, inflammation of the prostate, Cushing's disease, and kidney or liver disease. Medical conditions which cause pain or make it difficult for the dog to go outside to eliminate can also contribute to the problem. These conditions include arthritis, anal sac disease, loss of vision, and some forms of colitis. Treatment of these medical conditions may help to resolve this behavioral problem. Some medical conditions can result in a loss of control over bladder and bowel function and include hormone responsive incontinence, prostatic disease, and cognitive dysfunction. As discussed earlier, separation anxiety may result in defecating and urinating when the dog is separated from his owner(s).

Any older dog with a house soiling problem should be examined by a veterinarian and the owner should be able to give a detailed history of the color and amount of urine (or stool) passed, the frequency at which the dog needs to eliminate, changes in eating or drinking habits, the dog's posture while eliminating, and whether the 'accidents' only occur when the owner is gone.

Medical conditions contributing to the house soiling problem should be treated appropriately. If arthritis or painful movement is involved, an owner may want to build a ramp to the outside so the dog does not need to maneuver on stairs. Slick floor surfaces should be covered with non-slip area rugs or other material. Areas in the house where the dog has urinated or defecated should be cleaned with an enzyme cleaner. For dogs who need to urinate or defecate frequently, owners may need to change their schedules or find a pet sitter who can take the dog outside at appropriate intervals. A dog's food may contribute to difficulty defecating, and attempts should be made to determine if this could be a reason for the house soiling. Other medical conditions such as diabetes mellitus, bladder stones, or hormonal incontinence should be treated accordingly.

Noise phobias

Some older dogs become overly sensitive to noise. One may think the reverse would happen since many older dogs will acquire some hearing loss. Cognitive dysfunction, immobility resulting in an inability of the dog to remove himself from the source of the noise, and the decreased ability of an older dog to manage stress may be factors contributing to noise phobia.

It is important to identify which noises the dog may be afraid of. It may be noises we can hear, such as thunderstorms, but remember that a dog can hear frequencies humans cannot; the dog may be fearful of a sound we can not hear. For this reason, also try to relate the dog's behavior with other occurrences in the environment (e.g.; a train whistle, which may produce some high frequency sounds).

Treatment of noise phobias can include medication, desensitization and counterconditioning. For instance, if the sound is identified, play a recording of the sound at a very low volume level and reward the dog if no fear is displayed. Gradually (over days to weeks) the volume can be increased and rewards given appropriately.

Increased vocalization

Stress in an older dog may translate itself into increased barking, whining, or howling. This can occur during separation anxiety, as a means to gain attention (if the dog can not come to you because of decreased mobility, he may be asking you to come to him), or because of cognitive dysfunction.

The cause of the increased vocalization should be identified, if possible, and medication should be given if appropriate. If the dog is vocalizing in order to receive attention, he should be ignored. It may also be helpful to use 'remote correction,' such as throwing a pop can containing a few coins or pebbles toward the dog (not at the dog), which may startle him and stop him from vocalizing. He should not associate you with the correction or he may increase his vocalization just to get your attention. If the increased vocalization is an attention-seeking behavior, review the amount and type of attention you are giving the dog. Maybe you need to set aside some time for you and your dog (on your terms).

Nocturnal restlessness - changes in sleep patterns

Some older dogs may become restless at night, and stay awake, pacing through the house, or vocalizing. Pain, the need to urinate or defecate more often, the loss of vision or hearing, changes in appetite, and neurologic conditions can contribute to this behavior.

Any medical condition contributing to this behavior problem should be treated. Again, remote corrections may be helpful, or it may be necessary to confine the dog in a location away from the bedrooms during the night.

Cognitive dysfunction

According to Pfizer Pharmaceutical, 62% of dogs age 10 years and older will experience at least some of the following symptoms, which could indicate that he has canine cognitive dysfunction (CCD):

  • Confusion or disorientation. The dog may get lost in his own back yard, or get trapped in corners or behind furniture.
  • Pacing and being awake all night, or a change in sleeping patterns.
  • Loss of housetraining abilities. A previously housetrained dog may not remember and may urinate or defecate where he normally would not.
  • Deceased activity level.
  • Decreased attentiveness or staring into space.
  • Not recognizing friends or family members.

When other factors are ruled out (if decreased activity is due to an advancing arthritic condition, for instance, or his inattentiveness due to vision or hearing loss), and your veterinarian has determined that your dog has CCD, a treatment for this disorder may be recommmended. The new drug called Selegiline or L-Deprenyl, (brand name Anipryl), although not a cure, has been shown to alleviate some of the symptoms of CCD. If the dog responds, he will need to be treated daily for the rest of his life. As with all medications, there are side effects, and dogs with certain conditions should not be given Anipryl. For instance, if your dog is on Mitaban for external parasites, Anipryl should not be given. If you think your dog may have CCD, talk to your veterinarian.

Adapting to new pets in the household

Since older dogs do not handle stress well, getting a new puppy when you have an older dog showing signs of aging may not be the best idea. It is best to get a new puppy when the older dog is still mobile (can get away from the puppy), relatively pain free, is not experiencing cognitive dysfunction, and has good hearing and vision.

Summary

Many of the behavioral changes we see in older dogs can be due to medical conditions. If your dog's behavior is changing, have your dog examined by a veterinarian. Your older dog is more easily stressed, so attempt to reduce stress by making any necessary changes in routine gradual, and decreasing the exposure of your dog to stressors. With patience, understanding, and treatments recommended by your veterinarian, you can help make your dog's older years a quality time for you and him.

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Separation Anxiety

Separation anxiety is an important behavioral problem, which can cause tremendous emotional distress for both dogs and owners. It can occur in dogs of any age or breed, and is one of the most common reasons for pet owners to euthanize or give up their dogs.

What are the signs of separation anxiety?

A dog with separation anxiety becomes abnormally anxious when separated from his owner. The severity of the anxiety and the behaviors that the dog exhibits vary from individual to individual. Some dogs become anxious if they cannot actually see their owner; they constantly follow the owner from room to room. Other dogs can tolerate being alone in a room but will check frequently to reassure themselves that the owner is still in the house, and then go back to playing or chewing on a bone in another area. Still other dogs do not become anxious until the owner actually leaves the home. Some dogs become most anxious as soon as the owner leaves, and other dogs have a period of time during which they are comfortable alone, but they become anxious if the owner is gone for an extended period.

This anxiety often increases the longer the owner is gone, and can result in behaviors such as whining, pacing, salivation, barking, howling, hyperactivity, scratching, chewing, digging, urinating or defecating, and destruction of personal items or household objects. Dogs with separation anxiety often exhibit more than one of these behaviors. Dogs have been known to break their teeth and tear their nails and skin trying to get out of crates, and to destroy doors, and jump through windows as their anxiety increases.

Dogs with separation anxiety also often have an overly excited response when their owner returns home. They may whine, jump, or run in circles. This behavior may go on for an abnormal length of time after the owner gets home, and the dog will have the same extreme response even if the owner has only been gone for a few minutes.

What causes separation anxiety?

No one knows, for certain, why some dogs develop separation anxiety and others do not. Separation anxiety can occur in animals from multiple or single-pet homes. Separation anxiety may be more likely to occur in animals with a history of abuse or of multiple homes. Dogs that have missed out on normal social interaction with people or other animals, especially as puppies, may also be at increased risk. A dog that has never had a prior problem may develop separation anxiety when there is a change in the owner's work schedule, or after the household has moved to a new home. Some dogs may develop separation anxiety as they grow older.

It is important for owners of dogs with separation anxiety to understand that the inappropriate behavior the dog is exhibiting is due to anxiety, and not because the dog is angry or trying to 'get back' at the owner. Scolding or punishing the dog will only lead to confusion, more anxiety, and worse behavior. By videotaping some dogs whose owners have punished the dog for his destructive behavior, they have demonstrated that the dog's anxiety level increases just before the owner would normally come home. In these cases, behaviorists feel the dog's problem behavior is not due to anxiety about being alone, but because the dog is anxious about the probable punishment it will receive when the owner returns.

What should I do if I suspect my dog has separation anxiety?

If you feel your dog has separation anxiety, the first step is to discuss the situation with your veterinarian and have the dog undergo a complete physical examination. It is important to make sure that your dog's behavior is truly due to separation anxiety and not to something else. (For instance, inappropriate urination may occur if your dog was never actually fully housetrained, or if he has a urinary tract infection. A dog may bark when alone because he feels he is protecting his property, or because he can hear another dog.)

Your veterinarian may recommend some testing to make sure your dog does not have any underlying medical problems, which could contribute to behavior problems or make them worse. Tests may include a complete blood count, a chemistry profile, urinalysis, thyroid testing, a blood pressure check, and an ECG. These tests will also be important to verify the health status of your dog prior to being placed on any medication. Be sure that your veterinarian is aware of any other medication your dog is already taking, and any previous health problems.

How is separation anxiety treated?

For dogs with separation anxiety, the most effective approach is usually a combination of behavior modification exercises and anti-anxiety medication. It is essential to realize that both medication and behavior modification exercises are important parts of therapy for dogs with separation anxiety. In most cases, using one component alone will not be sufficient to achieve success. The medication is used to help your dog relax so that she can concentrate on performing the behavior modification exercises; the exercises are what actually change the dog's response to a stressful situation, over time.

Medications: Commonly used medications include clomipramine and amitriptyline, which can be prescribed by your veterinarian. Any anti-anxiety drug prescribed by your veterinarian needs to be given exactly as directed. Dogs with separation anxiety have a higher overall anxiety level, and drugs used as part of a treatment plan for separation anxiety need to be given regularly, not just when the dog seems anxious. Patience is important; it can take weeks to months for certain drugs to become effective. It is often necessary to try several drugs or combinations of drugs, to determine what will work best for an individual dog.

Behavior modification: Your veterinarian may be able to give you help with the behavior modification exercises, or refer you to an experienced animal behaviorist or trainer in your area. For the best result, it is important that the person you work with has had experience working with dogs with separation anxiety.

Behavior modification exercises must be done consistently (for weeks to months) to see results, and the exercises may need to be continued for life. Another component of behavior modification that may help your dog to be less anxious is increased exercise. Exercise has mental as well as physical benefits for dogs. Veterinary behaviorists often recommend 45-60 minutes of intense activity twice a day. If your dog is a 'couch potato,' start out slow and build up the intensity and length of time over several weeks. If your dog has any health problems, check with your veterinarian before starting the exercise program.

In addition to exercise, mental stimulation (playing fetch, working on commands, practicing agility exercises at home or in a class) is also important. Many types of dogs were originally bred to do a job, and they can become stressed without the mental activity they would normally use if they were "working."

Conclusion

Keep in mind that your dog does not have this problem behavior because he is mad at you or trying to 'get back' at you. Punishment, especially after the fact, will only be confusing and cause more anxiety. Always start with a visit to your veterinarian to rule out health problems. Separation anxiety can be a very frustrating and traumatic situation for both you and your dog, but with patience and proper treatment it can usually be dramatically improved.

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5 Important Reasons to Clean up Pet Waste

Dealing with pet waste is one of those topics that every pet owner must deal with but no one likes to talk about. The fact is that the majority of community and neighborhood pet problems result from the inappropriate handling of pet waste. In addition, pet waste is the greatest source of potential health risk for your pet and your family. This article will highlight the five most important reasons to properly dispose of pet waste and will also give you some tips and products to make this chore easier.

#1. Disease Control
There are several very common diseases that can be transmitted to dogs, cats and people through feces. These include Giardia, roundworms, hookworms, Salmonella, and E.coli. Did you know a heavily infected puppy can pass over a million roundworm eggs everyday? In addition, your dog can spread or contract parvovirus or coronavirus through infected feces. All of these diseases are very serious and common and every effort should be made by pet owners to keep their pets and family away from potentially infected feces. One of the easiest ways to do this is to install an in-ground stool digester like the Doggie Dooley. These digesters work like mini septic systems, safely breaking down feces and then allowing the residue to harmlessly sink into the surrounding soil. These handy little gadgets are one of the best ways to deal with dog or cat waste.

#2. Make your Yard more Useable
Nobody likes to walk through a yard that is hiding "doggie land mines." If you and your children are afraid to use your yard because of the dog, then you are wasting one of your biggest time and financial investments. In addition, the pets will get less interactive exercise and suffer as well. Once or twice a day 'scooping' off your yard with a shovel or Grabber pet waste shovel will only take a couple of minutes and make it a place where everyone enjoys spending time.

#3. Fly Control
Flies will consume and lay eggs in feces. These same flies will then come into your house and then spread disease as they pause on your counter and food. Need we say more about keeping feces cleaned up to prevent this cycle?

#4. Responsible Pet Ownership
Your responsibility to clean up after your pet doesn't end when your dog leaves your yard. There are probably fewer things that aggravate neighbors more than a dog that 'goes' in their yard. Pet owners need to clean up after their pet every time they go to the bathroom. Period. No exceptions. If you are walking in the woods and your dog goes, then bury it. If you are in a park or neighborhood, pick it up with a plastic bag. If you don't have a yard, then walk your dog on a leash or get an electronic fence. Don't make your responsibility somebody else's problem.

#5. Preventing Stool Eating
While most dog owners think this doesn't apply to them or their dog, the shocking truth is that most dogs will engage in this unsavory practice at some point in their life. Dogs evolved as carnivore/scavengers and feces were considered fair game in lean times. To prevent this occasional indiscretion from becoming a life-long habit, clean up feces as soon as possible, especially in young dogs where the problem is most prevalent. At the first sign of this bad habit consider adding an oral product like Dis-Taste® to your dog's food to decrease the palatability of the stools.

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10 Tips for Controlling Shedding

One of the biggest nuisances faced by pet owners is unwanted hair in their homes. Nearly every dog and cat - regardless of their age or breed - sheds. Some breeds have more hair or thicker undercoats and will shed in higher quantities, but virtually all dogs and cats will shed hair. While we cannot stop a dog or cat from shedding, we can help reduce the amount of loose hair, and also effectively remove the hair so it doesn't create a problem in our homes.

Animals shed to get rid of old, damaged, or extra hair. Animals grow a heavy coat in the winter to help insulate themselves and then shed the extra hair in the summer. However, dogs will also shed broken or damaged hair, and if their skin is irritated from conditions such as allergies, they will also shed excessively. This article will give tips for keeping the dog's skin and hair healthy to reduce shedding as well as effectively remove the hair.

  1. Brush your pet! Regular, even daily brushing is the best thing you can do to keep your home free of hair. Brushing will also make your pet's coat softer, cleaner, and less likely to shed. If you've never thought about it before, consider vacuuming your pet. While most cats resist vacuuming, many dogs love the massage from the vacuum attachment, and it is an effective way to remove pet hair.
  2. Feed an appropriate pet food. A pet's coat is often a reflection of what they eat. Feed a high quality food with good digestible protein sources and a good source of fat. While low fat is good for the waistline, it is bad for the hairline.
  3. Feed a fatty acid supplement. Giving supplements to your dog keeps his coat healthy and prevents broken or damaged hair which can lead to increased shedding.
  4. Cover your furniture and car seats. Upholstery is a magnet for pet hair, and removing pet hair from furniture or car seats can be a tedious task. If you allow pets on your furniture or bed, you would be wise to invest in a few furniture throws. Throws will keep your furniture looking (and smelling) better, and make your home more inviting to guests. Car seat covers are also an excellent investment and are highly recommended.
  5. Control allergies and fleas. Nothing makes hair fall out more than when a dog is scratching or biting at its skin and coat. If your pet is scratching because of allergies, supplement with Vitacaps® and Biotin to control inhalant allergies that irritate the skin. You should also see your veterinarian to make sure your pet is getting proper allergy relief. To prevent itching and scratching from fleas, use Bio Spot® or Advantage® to prevent and control infestations.
  6. Vacuum often. Be diligent in your vacuuming efforts. Frequent vacuuming is the best way to keep your home hair free.
  7. Bathe your dog occasionally during the summer. A clean dog will have a healthier coat. A gentle shed control shampoo once a week or so will help reduce shedding.
  8. Feed an anti-shed supplement like VitaCoat or VitaCoat Plus. These products contain fatty acids, vitamins, and minerals that are specifically formulated to reduce shedding.
  9. Use the right brush. Slicker Brushes, Shedding Blades, Matbreakers and Grooming Gloves each have a specific function and work best on the type of coat they are designed for. Most pets need more than one type of brush to remove all of the dead hair.
  10. Remove hair from upholstery as soon as possible. Hair that is newly shed is easier to remove before it works its way into upholstery fabric. A Tape Roller is one of the best tools for removing hair.

Remember that routine brushing and grooming are an important part of every pet's care. By paying attention to your pet's diet and following these tips, you can significantly reduce the amount of pet hair in your home, on your furniture, and in your car.

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Choosing the Right Toys for Your Dog

Picking the right toy for your dog isn't always easy. It may take a little trial and error before you find that perfect toy your dog just won't leave alone.

Below we've tried to summarize the different kinds of toys to help you find "the one".

Rubber toys
Great jaw and mouth exercise for dogs that like to chew; keeps them occupied for hours; fun for fetch or non-interactive play; great for aggressive chewers because they are so durable. Some are hollow so you can put treats inside of them for extra fun. Examples include Kongs and Rhino Chew Toys.

Vinyl toys
Easily compressed by the bite of just about any-sized dog; usually have squeakers that almost all dogs enjoy.

Soft toys
Made of fleece, plush fabric; retains dog's scent for extended play; some have squeakers; great for fetch, other dogs just like to carry soft or plush toys around and snuggle.

Rope toys
Great for fetch, tug games, and chewing; often flavored; good for teeth and gums; they last a long time. Examples: Chew N' Floss Rope Toys, Sports Plush Rope Toys, and Canvas Elongated Toys.

Rawhide chews and bones
Chewing rawhide removes plaque from the dog's teeth and keeps them cleaner while the dog has a great time chewing; come in many flavors, sizes and shapes - from bones to chews.

Bone-Hard Toys & Chews
Great for dogs who love to chew; good for the teeth since they remove plaque and are nonabrasive; relieve boredom; come in various flavors and sizes. Nylabones are a long-lasting chew toy, as well as other bone-hard chew toys.

Many dogs are surprisingly finicky about the size, shape, or feel of the toys they'll play with. If your dog doesn't play with the soft plush toy you give him, try a rubber or bone-hard toy. Be patient and don't give up - you'll find the toy type your pet loves to play with.

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Dog Crates

The Crate: A Modern Dog Den

"Canis familiaris," the domestic dog, is descended from "Canis lupus," the wolf. Many thousands of years ago, wolves hung around caves, stealing morsels from man at the dawn of civilization. Submissive wolves may have left their canine pack to take up residence at the periphery of human camps. In return for watchdog duty, these beasts probably received food, shelter, and companionship in the human pack. Genetic variability and mutations in wolves produced domestic dogs of an amazing variety of sizes, shapes, and colors, dogs that were further refined into breeds created for specific purposes. Although the terrier puppy has never seen the great north woods and the Samoyed down the street never hunted a moose with a silent pack of wolves, they have wolf habits in common with all other breeds of dogs. All puppies, in the manner of wolves, need a den. Pianos and tables make great dens, but furniture doesn't have sides for confinement. Laundry rooms, spare bathrooms, and even playpens are too big for a puppy den; there's enough room in these enclosures for the pup to defecate or urinate in one area and still have room to play or sleep without stepping in the mess.

In the wolf den, the mother wolf cleans up the cubs feces until the youngsters are old enough to defecate away from the den. The cubs learn that the den is a place to keep clean as well as a place of safety and comfort.

A modern den can be a Fiberglas or wire crate that can be kept in any room in the house. It should be barely large enough for the pup to lie down comfortably. If your pup is one of the large breeds and you don't want to buy several crates as he grows, buy an adult-size crate and partition it so it fits his current size.

The crate is a multi-purpose piece of dog paraphernalia. It can be used for:

Housetraining

Simply take the pup outside after each nap or meal. Do not play with him until he has done his business. If he hasn't relieved himself in about 10 minutes, take him back inside and put him in the crate. Repeat the routine in 10-15 minutes. Remember, no play until the pup does hid business and lots of praise when he gets the idea.

Protection from excited toddlers.

Children need to learn that the pup needs some quiet time. A blanket over a wire crate will help a child understand that it's time for Ranger to rest.

Playpen for puppies when you're not home.

If you need to take the kids to school or go to the grocery store, the pup that's crated will not chew the furniture or wet the carpet while you're gone. If he has already wet the carpet or chewed the furnitue, you can put him in the crate and issue a stern warning that there'll be no more of that going on.

Sanctuary for the over-excited pup.

Don't let Rambo run amok through the house, terrorizing the cat, the kids, and the furniture, and don't feel guilty about restricting his freedom. Sending the pup to his crate is somewhat akin to sending a child to his room: he feels comfortable there and he knows you are angry, and you have a chance to recover from his outburst.

After the pup is housebroken, leave the crate open during the day. You'll find that the pup will nap in the crate by choice. You can continue to put the pup in the crate when you'll be away from the house as long as you don't leave puppies and young dogs confined too long and make sure they have plenty of exercise when you are home. People often cringe at the thought of putting their beloved Star in a box or cage. They think confinement is cruel. After all, people don't want to be enclosed in a space they can barely turn around in. But puppies aren't people. Their wolf ancestors found comfort, safety, and shelter in their dens, and modern dogs find solace and satisfaction in their own space as well.

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Give that dog a job to keep him happy

"My dog is always into something."

Q: I'm almost at my wit's end. My Golden Retriever is 2 years old and he's so hyper! He's always into something, chews on the furniture, jumps up on everyone upsetting the guests, he digs under the fence and he's in my face all the time. I thought he'd calm down as he got older but he hasn't. Any ideas?

A: Golden Retrievers are very energetic, enthusiastic, people-loving dogs. What you're describing—being "in your face" all the time, chewing, jumping up and excitability are normal activities for this kind of dog. This doesn't mean that they can't be modified with training but you need to understand that these are some of characteristics of the type of dog you chose. Golden Retrievers, like many sporting breeds, need training, exercise, attention and a job to do in order to be the kind of pet you want.

Goldens excel in obedience competitions. They are very trainable and willing at any age. Training, however, isn't a one-time thing, it needs to be practiced every day. For the Golden who jumps up, tell the dog to "SIT-and-STAY" when guests are about to come in the door. Until the dog is reliable on command, keep a leash on him and use it to enforce the command. Make sure you give lots of praise for obeying; Goldens thrive on praise. Jumping up is an expression of joy over seeing you or a new person, so make the experience of obeying your command (by using treats and praise) more rewarding than the act of jumping up.

For the dog that's in your face—well, that's where your people-loving Golden wants to be most of all. But I know there are times when you just can't have him on top of you. Sign up for obedience class and teach him what "down-and-stay" means. When you need to have your dog out of your hair temporarily, tell him to "down-and-stay or temporarily confine him to a dog crate.

Destructive behavior like chewing and digging, especially when seen in an active breed like a Golden, is often a sign of boredom and lack of exercise. A short term cure is to make sure your dog has plenty of appropriate chew toys. There are bitter-tasting spray-on products you can get and apply to your furniture that will discourage chewing. Keep chewable valuables out of reach. If chewing while you're gone is a problem, get a dog crate. It keep will keep him safe and out of trouble when you can't supervise him.

For a long term cure for chewing and destructive behavior, your Golden needs a constructive way to use his energy. Daily walks are more effective than just being let out into the yard to amuse himself. Walks are fun and healthy for both of you! Take advantage of your dog's natural retrieving and athletic ability—can he catch a Frisbee or a ball? Sure he can! Can you give him a job? Can he fetch things around the house for you like pieces of dirty laundry or put away his own toys? Sure he can—if you take the time to show him how. Obedience training and practice are effective, too. It takes a lot of energy to concentrate and obey commands! You can incorporate obedience commands into everything you do. Walks, games and work to do are all great energy-burners and give him the personal attention he craves.

Your Golden's greatest desire is to please you. You can show him what it takes to make you happy through training and praise. By the same token, you have to understand that your dog has needs, too. Every successful relationship, whether human or canine, involves an understanding of each other's needs and how best to meet them. If you give him what he needs—exercise, training, a job to do and adequate praise and attention, he'll be better able to give you what you need—a well-behaved, calm companion!

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An Obedience Training Glossary

Some common obedience terms:

Leash:
A leather, nylon, or cotton strap with a clip at one end for the dog's collar and a loop at the other end for easy holding. Leashes come in several sizes, but the six-foot size is the most common for obedience training and walks.

Collar:
A leather, chain, nylon, or cotton apparatus that fits around the dog's neck and is used for control. Comes in several types: buckle, slip collar, choker and prong. Buckle collars can be used to train puppies and mild-mannered dogs that do not pull against the leash. Leather or flat nylon slip collars are helpful for dogs that are boisterous and dogs that pull hard against the leash. Chain or round nylon choker collars require skill to use but are the most common in training classes. The Volhard collar is a variation of the choker that is easier to fit and use. Prong collars are made of interlocking metal links with blunt prongs that can be worn next to the dog's neck or facing out from his neck. Prong collars are helpful with large and boisterous dogs and with dogs that are easily distracted from the business at hand. All collars must be fitted properly in order to work effectively.

Head collar or halter:
An apparatus similar to a pony halter, the head collar works by controlling the dog's head, not pulling on his neck. A head collar is helpful for strong dogs, for dogs that are somewhat aggressive to other dogs, and for teaching dogs to focus on the handler.

Harness:
A set of straps that fits around the dog's body, leaving no control over the head or neck. The harness is fine for small dogs and mild-mannered dogs, but should not be used on boisterous dogs or dogs that pull on the leash.

Puppy kindergarten:
A special class for puppies that emphasizes behavior and socialization and teaches owners how to handle and teach their puppies the basic commands.

Basic obedience:
A course of basic commands that dogs and handlers are expected to master before the end of the class session.

Advanced training:
Classes for dogs that need a bit of polish for the show ring or for continued success at good manners.

Canine Good Citizen test:
A 10-step, pass-fail test to prove a dog's good manners and an owner's sense of responsible dog ownership. Dogs must be licensed and well-groomed, sociable to people and other dogs, and understand basic obedience commands. A dog that fails any part of the test fails the whole test.

CD:
Companion Dog, the first level of obedience titles involving mastery of sit, heel, down, stay, and come commands in a variety of exercises. To earn a CD, a dog and handler must achieve a qualifying score of 170 points (out of 200) at three separate shows under three different judges. A CD is earned from the novice class.

CDX:
Companion Dog Excellent, the second level of obedience titles adding jumping and retrieving to the CD level and requiring that all work be done without a leash. The same three qualifying scores under three different judges are required to earn the title. A CDX is earned from the open class.

UD:
Utility dog, the third level of obedience titles adding scent discrimination, directed retrieves, and directed jumps to the skills required. Dogs must also earn three qualifying scores under different judges to earn a UD from the utility class.

OTCH:
Obedience trial championship, earned by continuing to compete at the open and utility levels and winning first or second place enough times to amass 100 points.

 

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