Correcting Negative Dog Behavior

How to Curb Excessive Barking, Quickly and Humanely

Dealing With Domination in Dogs

How to Curb Excessive Barking, Quickly and Humanely

Barking is a completely natural canine behavior, and is one of the primary ways in which dogs communicate. Your dog barks for a variety of reasons - normally good ones. But sometimes dogs bark inappropriately, whether in the field or in kennel situations. Inappropriate barking tends to reward itself, and can easily become a habit.

What can you do if you find your dog's barking is interfering with your training program, disturbing his kennel mates, or even upsetting your family?

You may wish to consider using a bark control collar to help you eliminate excessive barking and keep your dog on track. Most bark control collars are safe to use around other dogs, such as in kennel situations, because the stimulus is activated only by the dog wearing the collar.

Electronic bark control collars, such as the Dogtra brand, use vibration probes to sense when your dog barks. When vibration is detected, the collar probes deliver a harmless electrical correction to your dog's neck. The effectiveness of these collars is attributed to the fact that your dog learns to associate his own behavior (barking) with the unpleasant correction, and will stop the behavior to avoid the correction.

Bark collars usually offer different levels of electrical stimulation. Some collars, such as the Dogtra YS200 , even allow you to adjust the level of sensitivity.

While most bark collars are water-resistant, make sure to get one that is waterproof if you plan to use it in areas where your dog could wet or end up fully-submersed in the water. Also, be very cautious of the low quality "price pointed" collars at pet stores. Pay a little more to get a "professional" corrective collar- your dog will thank you.

Digging: Why do dogs do that?

Most behaviors of dogs are either the product of instinct, or a learned behavior. Digging behavior is no exception; it is an instinct. In addition, there are certain breeds; Terriers and Dachshunds, for instance; which were bred specifically for their ability to dig out game such as badgers, foxes, and otters. They have an even greater digging instinct.

Dogs dig for a variety of reasons.

• Dogs will often dig out of boredom. If you leave your dog out alone in the yard for any length of time, he may dig just for something to do. Play with him out there, or provide him with chew toys or interactive toys like a Kong rubber toy with treats stuffed inside.
• Digging is often used as a means of escape. Your dog may want to leave a fenced yard because there are so many more interesting things to do elsewhere.
• If you have an intact (unspayed, or unneutered) dog, he or she may be digging to escape in order to mate with another dog. If you do not plan to breed your dog, a good way to prevent digging for this reason is to neuter him or spay her.
• Since deeper layers of soil tend to be cooler, your dog may be digging to find relief from the heat. Always provide a cool, shady place for your dog to rest when he is outside.
• Dogs are great savers. They will bury bones or other treats 'for a rainy day' when they may need them.
• If you use bone or blood meal to fertilize your garden, the scent may be irresistible. A dog may dig and dig trying to find that nonexistent bone.
• Any dog may dig to excavate a den. A female dog may dig in order to provide a nest for babies, whether she is pregnant or not.

The trick to stopping any pet's unwanted behavior is understanding it, and then manipulating it into a behavior of which we approve. There are obvious things you can do to prevent digging, some of which are mentioned above. Here are other general solutions:

• Give your dog a place where he is permitted to dig and train him, with praise and treats, to dig in that spot and not in an inappropriate place. A good place is a sandy area, an area that has already been dug up and where the soil is loose, or an area where there is a lot of shade. A sandy area has the added benefit in that, sand is much easier to clean off than dirt. You can make this sand area with a small plastic pool from most toy stores and fill it up with sand.

Decide where this place will be, soften the soil, and then bury a favorite treat there. Bring your dog over to the area, say "dig!" and praise him when he uncovers the treat. Repeat until the behavior is learned. If you catch him digging in an inappropriate area, say "no!" and then take him over to the desired area and say "dig," followed by praise if he digs. This training may take several days.

• Deter him from digging in inappropriate areas. There are many different ways to do this, including putting pepper, mothballs (not safe with children), citrus or diluted ammonia on the inappropriate area. These products work by creating a scent in the area which is repugnant to animals, or which interferes with the animal's sense of smell. Some products can be used directly on plants and grass, some cannot. This is probably the easiest of the solutions. This will also work at repelling nuisance animals other than your own.

Digging, although deeply ingrained, can be unlearned. Be consistent and unwavering and you will be able to find a solution.

Stool Eating: How Can I Break My Dog From This Nasty Habit?

If your Dog Eats Other Dogs' Stool . . .

• Always walk your dog on a collar and lead or leash. If you see your dog going for it, give them a firm "no" command and keep them walking.

If your Dog Eats From the Cat's Litter Box . . .

• Give your cat a daily chewable tablet like Dis-Taste, or sprinkle some For-Bid or SEP over her food bowl to make her stool less appealing to the family dog.
• Consider getting your cat a litter box with a built-in cover like a Hooded Litter Pan.

As vile as you may view this behavior, our veterinarians emphasize you should never punish your dog for stool eating. To curb the habit, try the recommendations listed above, and if your dog continues, consult with your veterinarian.

Why Do Dogs Eat Feces?

Some dogs, especially those in kennel situations, may eat feces because they are anxious or stressed. One researcher suggests that dogs who have been punished by their owners for defecating inappropriately start to think any defecation is wrong, so they try to eliminate the evidence.

Another theory is that coprophagy (stool eating) is a trait passed down through the ages. Dogs' cousins, wolves and coyotes, may often eat feces if food is in short supply. Feces from herbivores (plant eaters) contain many vital B vitamins. Some researchers suggest that wolves (and some dogs) may eat feces to replenish their vitamin supply.

Dogs who eat their feces usually do not have a dietary deficiency. Some medical problems, however, can contribute to coprophagy including severe disorders of the pancreas (pancreatic insufficiency) or intestine, severe malnutrition from massive parasitic infestations, or starvation. These cases are rare.

In some instances, coprophagy may be a behavior learned from watching other animals. It may also become a habit in the course of play and puppies having to try out the taste of everything.

Ways to Prevent Jumping Behavior

Dogs often jump up on people. This is normal behavior for a young dog. Puppies of wild canids do it all the time. They jump up on each other or their parents. Puppies of our domestic dogs do the same. Jumping up serves both as play and to teach them how to act as a predator or how to challenge other pack members in the dominance hierarchy. In some homes, puppies are encouraged to jump up on their owners. Obviously, this is a mistake. While it may be seen as cute or as a sign of affection while the puppy is small, it can be terrifying when done by a 100-pound Rottweiler.

Numerous owners complain about their dogs doing this. They shout "No" or "No, get down" or any of a wide range of phrases that make perfect sense to them but that are not understood by the dog. They scream and punish the animals but little seems to help. Some of the peoples' actions may excite the dog even more, and when this occurs, nothing is learned.

In all honesty, this behavior can be eliminated completely in a week or less, and as usual, we do not think you need to say anything. You need to communicate to the pet that this is not acceptable behavior and should not be done, but do not waste words or try to make up new phrases to correct it.

As the animal starts to jump up on you, turn sideways and either extend your leg or lean over and with your hip give a body block so that the dog never even gets her paws on you. You see, once she has her front paws on you, she already got what she wanted (she won and you lost).

When the dog has all four feet on the floor, immediately squat down and give her attention. She will soon learn that by sitting quietly with all four feet on the floor she will get what she wants.

What if the dog surprised you and got her feet on you before you had a chance to block her. Do NOT push her away with your hands. Many dogs think that is play. Some people lightly step on the toes of one of the animal's rear feet, but not enough to hurt the dog. All you want to do is make something that is fun suddenly uncomfortable to them. Say nothing. Do not waste "No" on this kind of behavior. Remember, you are not trying to step down on her toes and make the animal yip in pain.

Done consistently, either of these actions will eliminate jumping behavior.

Biting: Causes, Prevention, and Control

The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC), a federal agency which monitors and controls human diseases, estimates over 4.7 million people are bitten per year. This is approximately 2 percent of the U.S. population. Ten to twenty people die each year from injuries resulting from dog bites. Most of these victims are children.

In addition to physical injuries, people, especially children, can be emotionally scarred as well. It is sad, indeed, when a person who has suffered a dog bite can no longer feel comfortable around animals, and may in fact, be terrified of them. Such people lose a wonderful aspect of their lives and a chance to have a meaningful human-animal bond.

Reduce the risk of your dog biting

There is no way to guarantee that your dog will never bite someone. But you can significantly reduce the risk if you:

• Spay or neuter your dog. This will reduce your dog's desire to roam and fight with other dogs. Spayed or neutered dogs are three times less likely to bite than intact dogs.
• Socialize your dog. Introduce your dog to many different types of people and situations so that he or she is not nervous or frightened under normal social circumstances.
• Train your dog. Participating in puppy socialization and dog training classes is an excellent way to help you and your dog learn good obedience skills. Training your dog is a family matter, and every member of your household should be involved and use the same training techniques.
• Teach your dog appropriate behavior. Avoid playing aggressive games with your dog such as wrestling, tug-of-war, or 'siccing' your dog on another person. Do not allow your puppy to bite or chew on your hands. Set appropriate limits for your dog's behavior. Do not wait for an unacceptable behavior to become a bad habit, or believe your dog will 'grow out of it.' If your dog exhibits dangerous behavior toward any person, particularly toward children, seek professional help from your veterinarian, an animal behaviorist, or a qualified dog trainer. Your community animal care and control agency or humane society may also offer helpful services. Dangerous behavior toward other animals may eventually lead to dangerous behavior toward people, and is also a reason to seek professional help.
• Be a responsible dog owner. Obtain a license for your dog as required by law, and provide regular veterinary care, including rabies vaccinations. For everyone's safety, do not allow your dog to roam. Make your dog a member of your family. Dogs who spend a great deal of time alone in the backyard or tied out on a chain are more likely to become dangerous. Dogs who are well-socialized and supervised rarely bite.
• Err on the safe side. If you do not know how your dog will react to a new situation, be cautious. If your dog may panic in crowds, leave him at home. If your dog overreacts to visitors or delivery or service personnel, keep him in another room. Work with professionals to help your dog become accustomed to these and other situations. Until you are confident of his behavior, however, avoid stressful settings.

If your dog would bite a person:

• Confine your dog immediately.
• Check on the victim's condition. If necessary, seek medical help.
• Provide the victim with important information. This should include your name and address, name of the dog, the date of your dog's last rabies vaccination, and the name and phone number of your veterinarian.
• Cooperate with the animal control official responsible for acquiring information about your dog. If your dog must be quarantined for any length of time, ask whether he may be confined within your home or at your veterinarian's hospital (this is usually determined by the dog's rabies vaccination status). Strictly follow quarantine requirements for your dog.
• Seek professional help to prevent your dog from biting again. Consult with your veterinarian, who may refer you to an animal behaviorist or a dog trainer.
• Do not just give your dog to someone else if your dog's dangerous behavior cannot be controlled. Because you know your dog is dangerous, you may be held liable for any damage he does even when he is given to someone else. Do not give your dog to someone who wants a dangerous dog. If you must give up your dog due to dangerous behavior, consult with your veterinarian and with your local animal care and control agency or humane society about your options. New owners may be possible if they have a good knowledge of dog behavior and training, and are fully aware of the dog's behavior problems.

To avoid being bitten:

• Be cautious around strange dogs. To avoid being bitten, never approach an unfamiliar dog, especially one who is tied or confined behind a fence or in a car. Do not pet an unfamiliar dog without the owner's permission, and make sure to let the dog see and sniff you first. Always assume that a dog who does not know you may see you as an intruder or as a threat.
• Never turn your back to a dog and run away. A dog's natural instinct will be to chase and catch you. Instead, remain motionless, with your hands at your sides. Avoid direct eye contact. When the dog loses interest, slowly back away.
• Do not disturb a dog while she's sleeping, eating, chewing on a toy, or caring for puppies. Be sure the dog is aware of your presence before you touch the dog - even your own. A startled dog may bite as a reflex action.
• Teach children not to tease or chase dogs.
• Never leave an infant or child alone with a dog.

If you are attacked:

• Put something between you and the dog. Use your coat, purse, book bag, bicycle, or other object to separate yourself from the dog.
• Protect your head. If you are knocked down, cover your head and ears with your hands and curl into a ball. Try not to move or scream.
• Care for any wounds. Wash any wound with soap and water and seek medical attention.
• Report the attack to the police or animal control agency. Try to remember as much as possible about the attack.

The happiness and safety of you, your pet, and the people around you is important to us. By responsibly taking care of your dog and educating other dog owners, you can help prevent dog bites. You can help by supporting dog bite prevention educational programs in schools, and teaching children and adults the proper way to approach unfamiliar pets and avoid being bitten.

Leash Pulling: How to Prevent It

One of the most common behavior problems that people have with their puppies is pulling on the leash. It is much easier to prevent the problem than to have to correct it once it has become a habit. There are several training methods you can use to teach your puppy the right way to walk on a leash.

A regular buckle collar and a six foot leash are required for this training. The first step to teaching loose leash walking is to keep in mind that leaving the house on a leash is a reward. Secondly, remember that if you continue to walk while your puppy is pulling, you are, in fact, teaching your dog to pull.

First, put the collar and leash on the puppy and stand in one place. Give your puppy enough leash so he can walk about four feet from you. Reward your puppy every time the leash goes slack. This method is best when teamed with a reward marker, like "yes" or a clicker.

When you are ready to begin walking say "let's go" and take a few steps. Chances are good that your puppy will begin to pull immediately, so plant your feet and stop walking. Wait for the leash to go slack, give a food reward and try walking again.

Try not to yank or "check" the leash, which is a natural response. If it is difficult for you to stop "checking," put your leash hand in your pocket. You should also try to be very vocal with your puppy. Puppies have a very short attention span, and talking in a high pitched voice will help your puppy keep his attention on you.

Mounting Behavior

Q:

When a dog mounts another, is it play or a sign of dominance?

A:

Mounting (when one dog places his paws and chest on the hindquarters of another dog) is a normal and very common canine behavior. In most cases, it is NOT a sexual behavior. In young puppies, it is a play behavior. In older dogs, it is a method of communication, and the dog who is mounting the other dog is generally displaying dominance

Older Dogs: Common Behavior Changes

Puppies have their behavior problems, and older dogs have theirs. For older dogs, in many cases it is not that they do not understand the 'rules,' but that they may, for many reasons, be unable to follow them.

Separation anxiety

Separation anxiety is one of the most common behavior problems seen in older dogs. A dog who has separation anxiety will become very anxious when he senses his owner is about to leave. When the owner does leave, the dog often becomes destructive, barks or howls, may urinate or defecate, and may salivate profusely. A dog with separation anxiety will often be overly exhuberant when his owner returns.

Older dogs may have a decreased ability to cope with changes in routine. Vision or hearing loss may make them more anxious, overall, but especially when they are separated from the owner. Neurologic changes may also limit an older dog's ability to adjust to change.

Some of the main considerations in treating separation anxiety are:

• Do not make a big deal about leaving or coming home - that simply reinforces the behavior.
• Teach your dog to relax. If your dog can learn to relax in a 'stay' for extended periods while you are there, he will be more likely to learn how to relax while you are gone.
• Change your departure cues. Many dogs know as soon as the alarm goes off, that it is a work day and you are going to leave. They start getting anxious as soon as they hear the alarm. We need to change our routine so the dog does not know we will be leaving. For instance, pick up the car keys and then go sit on the couch; on a Saturday, get up and dress like you are going to work, but stay home.
• Start with very short departures. Determine how long you can leave your dog before he gets anxious. It may be only 10 seconds, so start there. Leave for 5 seconds, return, and if the dog has remained calm, reward him. Gradually increase the time you are gone, always returning before the dog becomes anxious, and rewarding him for staying calm. This may take weeks to months, so patience is the key.
• Associate your departure with something good. As you leave, give your dog a hollow toy such as a 'Kong' filled with a wonderful treat. This may take his mind off of you leaving. Anxiety tends to feed on itself, so if we can prevent the anxiety from occurring when you leave, the dog may remain calm after you leave. Make sure your dog's environment is comfortable: the right temperature, a soft bed, sunlight, 'easy-listening' music. Some dogs will be more relaxed if they can see the outside world, others may become more anxious. Similarly, some older dogs are more anxious when left outdoors, and do much better when they can stay in the house. Determine what is best for your dog.
• Break up the dog's day. If you are gone for extended periods during the day, you may want to think about having someone come in during the day to let your dog out and give him some exercise. Older dogs, especially, may need to go outside more often to urinate and defecate. Giving them this opportunity may decrease their anxiety.
• Crate your dog. Many dogs feel safe in a crate, and being in a crate will help reduce their destructiveness. This will make it safer for them and your house.
• Use a team approach. Anti-anxiety medications such as Clomicalm are often needed to break the cycle of separation anxiety. Medication alone, however, will not solve the problem. Work with your veterinarian and an animal behaviorist to develop a plan that will work best for you and your dog.

Aggression

Older dogs may become aggressive for several reasons. Aggression may be the result of a medical problem such as one causing pain (arthritis or dental disease), vision or hearing loss, which results in the dog being easily startled, lack of mobility so the dog can not remove himself from the irritating stimulus (e.g.; an obnoxious puppy), or diseases having direct effects on the nervous system, such as cognitive dysfunction (see below). Stresses such as moving, a new family member, or a new pet may make an older dog more irritable and more likely to be aggressive. In a multi-dog household, an older dog who was the 'dominant' dog in the past, may find his authority being challenged by younger dogs in the household.

By determining what factors may be contributing to the aggression, we may be able to eliminate or reduce those factors. Treating medical conditions which contribute to the aggression is paramount. Watch the dog for signs of stress (increased panting), and remove the dog from the stressful situation which could cause aggression. Using a 'halti' headcollar and leash may provide more control over an older dog, especially one who has decreased hearing or vision. In some cases, a basket muzzle may be needed to assure the safety of human and non-human family members. DO NOT LEAVE A MUZZLED DOG UNATTENDED. Medications can be helpful in reducing aggression that may be due to fear and anxiety. As with separation anxiety discussed above, medication alone will not solve the problem. Work with your veterinarian and an animal behaviorist to develop a plan that will work best for you and your dog.

House Soiling

Some older dogs who have been housetrained for years, may start having 'accidents.' As with other behavior problems in older dogs, there may be multiple causes for this change in behavior. Medical conditions which result in an increased frequency of urination or defecation may be the underlying cause for this behavior problem. These conditions include: colitis, inflammatory bowel disease, diabetes mellitus, bladder stones or infections, inflammation of the prostate, Cushing's disease, and kidney or liver disease. Medical conditions which cause pain or make it difficult for the dog to go outside to eliminate can also contribute to the problem. These conditions include arthritis, anal sac disease, loss of vision, and some forms of colitis. Treatment of these medical conditions may help to resolve this behavioral problem. Some medical conditions can result in a loss of control over bladder and bowel function and include hormone responsive incontinence, prostatic disease, and cognitive dysfunction. As discussed earlier, separation anxiety may result in defecating and urinating when the dog is separated from his owner(s).

Any older dog with a house soiling problem should be examined by a veterinarian and the owner should be able to give a detailed history of the color and amount of urine (or stool) passed, the frequency at which the dog needs to eliminate, changes in eating or drinking habits, the dog's posture while eliminating, and whether the 'accidents' only occur when the owner is gone.

Medical conditions contributing to the house soiling problem should be treated appropriately. If arthritis or painful movement is involved, an owner may want to build a ramp to the outside so the dog does not need to maneuver on stairs. Slick floor surfaces should be covered with non-slip area rugs or other material. Areas in the house where the dog has urinated or defecated should be cleaned with an enzyme cleaner. For dogs who need to urinate or defecate frequently, owners may need to change their schedules or find a pet sitter who can take the dog outside at appropriate intervals. A dog's food may contribute to difficulty defecating, and attempts should be made to determine if this could be a reason for the house soiling. Other medical conditions such as diabetes mellitus, bladder stones, or hormonal incontinence should be treated accordingly.

Noise phobias

Some older dogs become overly sensitive to noise. One may think the reverse would happen since many older dogs will acquire some hearing loss. Cognitive dysfunction, immobility resulting in an inability of the dog to remove himself from the source of the noise, and the decreased ability of an older dog to manage stress may be factors contributing to noise phobia.

It is important to identify which noises the dog may be afraid of. It may be noises we can hear, such as thunderstorms, but remember that a dog can hear frequencies humans cannot; the dog may be fearful of a sound we can not hear. For this reason, also try to relate the dog's behavior with other occurrences in the environment (e.g.; a train whistle, which may produce some high frequency sounds).

Treatment of noise phobias can include medication, desensitization and counterconditioning. For instance, if the sound is identified, play a recording of the sound at a very low volume level and reward the dog if no fear is displayed. Gradually (over days to weeks) the volume can be increased and rewards given appropriately.

Increased vocalization

Stress in an older dog may translate itself into increased barking, whining, or howling. This can occur during separation anxiety, as a means to gain attention (if the dog can not come to you because of decreased mobility, he may be asking you to come to him), or because of cognitive dysfunction.

The cause of the increased vocalization should be identified, if possible, and medication should be given if appropriate. If the dog is vocalizing in order to receive attention, he should be ignored. It may also be helpful to use 'remote correction,' such as throwing a pop can containing a few coins or pebbles toward the dog (not at the dog), which may startle him and stop him from vocalizing. He should not associate you with the correction or he may increase his vocalization just to get your attention. If the increased vocalization is an attention-seeking behavior, review the amount and type of attention you are giving the dog. Maybe you need to set aside some time for you and your dog (on your terms).

Nocturnal restlessness - changes in sleep patterns

Some older dogs may become restless at night, and stay awake, pacing through the house, or vocalizing. Pain, the need to urinate or defecate more often, the loss of vision or hearing, changes in appetite, and neurologic conditions can contribute to this behavior.

Any medical condition contributing to this behavior problem should be treated. Again, remote corrections may be helpful, or it may be necessary to confine the dog in a location away from the bedrooms during the night.

Cognitive dysfunction

According to Pfizer Pharmaceutical, 62% of dogs age 10 years and older will experience at least some of the following symptoms, which could indicate that he has canine cognitive dysfunction (CCD):

• Confusion or disorientation. The dog may get lost in his own back yard, or get trapped in corners or behind furniture.
• Pacing and being awake all night, or a change in sleeping patterns.
• Loss of housetraining abilities. A previously housetrained dog may not remember and may urinate or defecate where he normally would not.
• Deceased activity level.
• Decreased attentiveness or staring into space.
• Not recognizing friends or family members.

When other factors are ruled out (if decreased activity is due to an advancing arthritic condition, for instance, or his inattentiveness due to vision or hearing loss), and your veterinarian has determined that your dog has CCD, a treatment for this disorder may be recommmended. The new drug called Selegiline or L-Deprenyl, (brand name Anipryl), although not a cure, has been shown to alleviate some of the symptoms of CCD. If the dog responds, he will need to be treated daily for the rest of his life. As with all medications, there are side effects, and dogs with certain conditions should not be given Anipryl. For instance, if your dog is on Mitaban for external parasites, Anipryl should not be given. If you think your dog may have CCD, talk to your veterinarian.

Adapting to new pets in the household

Since older dogs do not handle stress well, getting a new puppy when you have an older dog showing signs of aging may not be the best idea. It is best to get a new puppy when the older dog is still mobile (can get away from the puppy), relatively pain free, is not experiencing cognitive dysfunction, and has good hearing and vision.

Summary

Many of the behavioral changes we see in older dogs can be due to medical conditions. If your dog's behavior is changing, have your dog examined by a veterinarian. Your older dog is more easily stressed, so attempt to reduce stress by making any necessary changes in routine gradual, and decreasing the exposure of your dog to stressors. With patience, understanding, and treatments recommended by your veterinarian, you can help make your dog's older years a quality time for you and him.

Rolling in Smelly Things

Q: Why do dogs always want to roll around in smelly things?

A: It is thought that dogs may choose to roll in foul-smelling things to mask their scent, just as wolves do. Wolves may roll in decomposing carcasses or the feces of herbivores (plant eating animals) to disguise themselves. They want to cover their own odors so their prey will not be alarmed by their scent. This way, they can sneak up on their prey and have a better chance of making a kill. Some behaviorists feel dogs may roll in smelly things to 'advertise' what they have found to other dogs.

No matter the reason, unfortunately, some of our domesticated friends have held onto this trait. How many of us have given a dog a bath only to find him running outside to again roll in something foul?

Dealing With Dominance In Dogs

What does "dominance" mean?

You may have a dominance issue with your dog if:

• He resists obeying commands that he knows well.
• He won’t move out of your way when required.
• He nudges your hand, takes you’re arm in his mouth or insists on being petted or played with (in other words, ordering you to obey him).
• He defends his food bowl, toys or other objects from you.
• He growls or bares his teeth at you under any circumstances.
• He won’t let anyone (you, the vet, the groomer) give him medication or handle him.
• He gets up on furniture without permission and won’t get down.
• He snaps at you.

What to do if you recognize signs of dominance in your dog:

If you recognize the beginning signs of dominance aggression in your dog, you should immediately consult an animal behavior specialist. No physical punishment should be used. Getting physical with a dominant dog may cause the dog to intensify his aggression, posing the risk of injury to you. With a dog that has shown signs of dominance aggression, you should always take precautions to ensure the safety of your family and others who may encounter your dog by:

• Avoiding situations that elicit the aggressive behavior.
• During the times your dog is acting aggressively, back off and use "happy talk" to relieve the tenseness of the situation.
• Supervise, confine and/or restrict your dog’s activities as necessary, especially when children or other pets are present.
• When you’re outdoors with your dog, use a "Halti" head collar or muzzle.
• When you’re indoors with your dog, control access to the entire house by using baby gates and/or by crating your dog. You can also use a cage-type muzzle, or a "Halti" and leash, but only when you can closely supervise your dog. Dominance aggression problems are unlikely to go away without your taking steps to resolve them. Treatment of dominance aggression problems should always be supervised by an animal behavior specialist since dominant aggressive dogs can be potentially dangerous.

The following techniques, which don’t require a physical confrontation with your dog, can help you gain some control:

• Spay or neuter your dog to reduce hormonal contributions to aggression. NOTE: After a mature animal has been spayed or neutered, it may take time for those hormones to clear from the system. Also, long-standing behavior patterns may continue even after the hormones or other causes no longer exist.
• "Nothing in Life is Free" is a safe, non-confrontational way to establish your leadership and requires your dog to work for everything he gets from you (see our handout: "Nothing in Life is Free"). Have your dog obey at least one command (such as "sit") before you pet him, give him dinner, put on his leash or throw a toy for him. If your dog doesn’t know any commands or doesn’t perform them reliably, you’ll first have to teach him, using positive reinforcement, and practice with him daily. You may need to seek professional help if your dog is not obeying each time you ask after two to three weeks of working on a command.
• Don’t feed your dog people food from the table and don’t allow begging.
• Don’t play "tug of war," wrestle or play roughly with your dog.
• Ignore barking and jumping up.
• Don’t allow your dog on the furniture or your bed, as this is a privilege reserved for leaders. If your dog growls or snaps when you try to remove him from the furniture, use a treat to lure him off. Otherwise, try to limit his access to your bed and/or furniture by using baby gates, a crate, or by closing doors.
• Always remember to reward good behavior.
• Consult your veterinarian about acupuncture, massage therapy or drug therapy.
• Obedience classes may be helpful in establishing a relationship between you and your dog in which you give commands and he obeys them (be sure to choose a trainer who uses positive reinforcement methods). Obedience classes alone, however, won’t necessarily prevent or reduce dominance aggression.

A Note About Children and Dogs

From your dog’s point of view, children, too, have a place in the dominance hierarchy. Because children are smaller and get down on the dog’s level to play, dogs often consider them to be playmates, rather than superiors. Small children and dogs should not be left alone together without adult supervision. Older children should be taught how to play and interact appropriately and safely with dogs; however, no child should be left alone with a dog who has displayed signs of aggression.

Dog Toys and How To Use Them

There are many factors that contribute to the safety or danger of a toy. Many of those factors, however, are completely dependent upon your dog’s size, activity level and play style. Although we cannot guarantee your dog’s enthusiasm or his safety with any specific toy, we can offer the following guidelines.

Safety First

The things that are usually the most attractive to dogs are often the very things that are the most dangerous. Dog-proof your home by checking for: string, ribbon, rubber bands, children’s toys, pantyhose and anything else that could be ingested. Toys should be appropriate for your dog’s current size. Balls and other toys that are too small can be easily swallowed or become lodged in your dog’s mouth or throat. Avoid or alter any toys that are not "dog-proof" by removing ribbons, strings, eyes or other parts that could be chewed off and ingested. Monitor your dog’s toys and discard any toy that starts to break into pieces or has pieces torn off. Ask your veterinarian about the safety of items like bones, hooves, pig’s ears and rawhides. Very hard rubber toys are safer and last longer. Take note of any toy that contains a "squeaker" buried in its center. Your dog may feel that he must find and destroy the squeak-source and could ingest it, in which case squeaking toys should be given only under supervision. Check labels for child safety. A stuffed toy that’s labeled as safe for children under three years old, and does not contain dangerous fillings is probably safe for pets too. Problem fillings include things like nutshells and polystyrene beads; however, even a "safe" stuffing is not truly digestible. Remember that soft toys are not indestructible, but some are sturdier than others. Soft toys should be machine washable.

Toys We Recommend

Active Toys:

Very hard rubber toys, like Kong. products. These are available in a variety of shapes and sizes and are fun for chewing, fetching and for carrying around. "Rope" toys that are usually available in a "bone" shape with knotted ends. Tennis balls make good fetch toys, but some dogs may chew off and ingest pieces.

Distraction Toys:

Kong.-type toys, especially when filled with broken-up treats or, even better, a mixture of broken-up treats and a small amount of peanut butter. The right size Kong. can keep a puppy or dog busy for hours. By chewing diligently your dog can access the treats in small bits – very rewarding! Double-check with your veterinarian about giving peanut butter to your dog. "Busy-box" toys are large, hard plastic cubes or balls with hiding places for treats. The dog has to move the toy around with his nose, mouth and paws to access the goodies inside. These toys should be large enough that your dog cannot get his mouth around it.

Comfort Toys:

Soft stuffed toys are good for several purposes, but are not appropriate for all dogs. For some dogs, the stuffed toy should be small enough to carry around. For dogs that want to shake or "kill" the toy, it should be the size that "prey" would be for that size dog (mouse-size, rabbit-size or duck-size). Dirty laundry, like an old t-shirt, pillowcase, towel or blanket, can be very comforting to a dog, especially if it smells like you! Be forewarned that the item could be destroyed by industrious

fluffing, carrying and nosing.

Get The Most Out Of Toys!

Rotate your dog’s toys weekly by making only four or five toys available at a time. Keep a variety of types easily accessible. If your dog has a huge favorite, like a soft "baby," you should probably leave it out all the time. Provide toys that offer a variety of uses - at least one toy to carry, one to "kill," one to roll and one to "baby." "Hide and Seek" is a fun game for dogs to play. "Found" toys are often much more attractive. Making an interactive game out of finding toys or treats is a good "rainy-day" activity for your dog, using up energy without the need for a lot of space. Many of your dog’s toys should be interactive. Interactive play is very important for your dog because he needs active "people time." By focusing on a specific task, like repeatedly returning a ball, Kong. or Frisbee, or playing "hide-and-seek" with treats or toys, your dog can expel pent-up mental and physical energy in a limited amount of time and space. This greatly reduces stress due to confinement, isolation and/or boredom. For young, high-energy and untrained dogs, interactive play also offers an opportunity for socialization and helps them learn about appropriate and inappropriate behavior with people and with other animals, like jumping up or being mouthy.

Tug of War

Tug of war has long been thought to be an absolute "don’t" in many dog-owning households. However, by taking a few precautions and setting some basic rules it can be a fun game for you and your dog. Choose a toy that will be reserved exclusively for this particular activity. This will help prevent your dog from grabbing and tugging anything you have in your hand.

Teach two commands:

o "Pull" or "Tug" begins the game. Never allow the dog to initiate tug on his own and always use your starting phrase when you begin the game.

o "Release" ends the game. Teach your dog to release the toy by offering a better toy in exchange. Do not start playing tug with your dog until he is consistently releasing the toy on command. If your dog does not give up the toy on command, stop the game immediately. Wait until he gets interested in something else and then put away the toy for use at another time. You may also take obedience breaks during the tug game. Each time the dog puts down the toy, ask for a few simple commands and then continue the game. Anyone in the family who cannot follow the rules of the game should not play tug with the dog.

NOTE: If your dog has shown signs of aggression towards you, tug of war is not a game we recommend.

Understanding Aggressive Behavior In Dogs

Dog aggression is any behavior meant to intimidate or harm a person or another animal. Growling, baring teeth, snarling, snapping and biting are all aggressive behaviors. Although aggressive behaviors are normal for dogs, they’re generally unacceptable to humans. From a dog's perspective, there’s always a reason for aggressive behavior. Because humans and dogs have different communication systems, misunderstandings can occur between the two species. A person may intend to be friendly, but a dog may perceive that person's behavior as threatening or intimidating. Dogs aren’t schizophrenic, psychotic, crazy, or necessarily "vicious," when displaying aggressive behavior. Because aggression is so complex, and because the potential consequences are so serious, we recommend that you get professional in-home help from an animal behavior specialist if your dog is displaying aggressive behavior.

Types of Aggression

Dominance Aggression: Dominance aggression is motivated by a challenge to a dog's social status or to his control of a social interaction. Dogs are social animals and view their human families as their social group or "pack." Based on the outcomes of social challenges among group members, a dominance hierarchy or "pecking order" is established. If your dog perceives his own ranking in the hierarchy to be higher than yours, it’s likely that he’ll challenge you in certain situations. Because people don’t always understand canine communication, you may inadvertently challenge your dog's social position. A dominantly aggressive dog may growl if he is disturbed when resting or sleeping, or if he is asked to give up a favorite spot, such as the couch or the bed. Physical restraint, even when done in a friendly manner, like hugging, may also cause your dog to respond aggressively. Reaching for your dog's collar or reaching out over his head to pet him, could also be interpreted by him as a challenge for dominance. Dominantly aggressive dogs are often described as "Jekyll and Hydes" because they can be very friendly when not challenged. Dominance aggression may be directed at people or at other animals. The most common reason for dogs in the same family to fight with each other is instability in the dominance hierarchy.

Fear-Motivated Aggression: Fear-motivated aggression is a defensive reaction and occurs when a dog believes he is in danger of being harmed. Remember that it’s your dog's perception of the situation, not your actual intent, which determines your dog’s response. For example, you may raise your arm to throw a ball, but your dog, perceiving this to be a threat, may bite you because he believes he is protecting himself from being hit. A dog may also be fearfully aggressive when approached by other dogs.

Protective, Territorial And Possessive Aggression: Protective, territorial and possessive aggression are all very similar, and involve the defense of valuable resources. Territorial aggression is usually associated with defense of property. However, your dog's sense of territory may extend well past the boundaries of "his" yard. For example, if you walk your dog regularly around the neighborhood and allow him to urine-mark, to him, his territory may be the entire block! Protective aggression usually refers to aggression directed toward people or animals that a dog perceives as threats to his family, or pack. Dogs become possessively aggressive when defending their food, toys or other valued objects, such as Kleenex stolen from the trash!

Redirected Aggression: This type of aggression is relatively common, but is a behavior that pet owners may not always understand. If a dog is aroused into an aggressive response by a person or animal that he is prevented from attacking, he may redirect this aggression onto someone else. A common example occurs when two family dogs become excited, bark and growl in response to another dog passing through the front yard. The two dogs, confined behind a fence, may turn and attack each other because they can’t attack the intruder.

Predation Aggression: is usually considered to be a unique kind of aggressive behavior, because it’s motivated by the intent to obtain food, and not primarily by the intent to harm or intimidate.

Individual Variations:

Dogs differ in their likelihood to show aggressive behavior in any particular situation. Some dogs tend to respond aggressively with very little stimulation. Others may be subjected to all kinds of threatening stimuli and events, and never attempt to bite. The difference in this threshold at which a dog displays aggressive behavior is influenced by both environmental and genetic factors. If this threshold is low, a dog will be more likely to bite. Raising the threshold makes a dog less likely to respond aggressively. This threshold can be raised using behavior modification techniques. How easily the threshold can be changed is influenced by the dog's gender, age, breed, general temperament, and by whether the appropriate behavior modification techniques are chosen and correctly implemented. Working with aggressive dogs can be potentially dangerous, and should be done only by, or under the guidance of, an experienced animal behavior professional who understands animal learning theory and behavior.

What You Can Do:

What Not To Do:

Categories of Aggression:

Dominance Aggression:

Attempt to move higher in the social hierarchy of the family (pack). Can be directed at family members including other dogs residing in the home.

• Fear Aggression:

Fear of an actual or perceived threat such as a person, animal or situation. The dog may "freeze", "flee" or "fight."

• Territorial/Protective Aggression:

Perceived threat to the home or family or family member. Usually a stranger.

• Pain Aggression:

Response to sickness or injury. Aggression toward nearest human or animal.

• Maternal Aggression:

Threat or perceived threat to a dam's pups. Aggression toward any human or animal too close to the litter.

• Predatory Aggression:

The predisposed behavior to chase and kill prey for food. Usually triggered by fleeing from the dog with or without fearful vocalizations. Can be a smaller animal or a child.

• Seizure-Related Aggression:

Caused by seizure-like brain disorders. Directed toward anyone or anything.

At the first sign of an aggression problem, consult a qualified animal behaviorist or veterinarian behaviorist. Interview them and check their references. Basically, the methods used to lessen or eliminate aggression are:

1. Training (behavior modification)
2. Pharmacological Intervention (use of behavior altering drugs)
3. Surgical Intervention (usually castration of the male dog)
4. Avoiding Provocative Situations

You must decide what TRAINED means to you and your dog.
TRAINED, is NOT an end - it is a lifelong journey.
Kind of like my own education - I learn new things daily.

TRAINED is not magical - it won't happen without outside influence.

If YOU are NOT that outside influence, other things WILL be
(i.e.; the dog won't wait for you to train him!):

• You put old bread out on the ground for the birds - your dog finds it and eats all of it. He has just been trained to eat the bread - food is a strong reward for behavior.
• One of his toys is partially under a bush in the garden. He uses his paws to get to it and digs a hole in the process. He gets his toy and the garden gets a hole. He was just trained how to get a hard to reach object he wants. The object itself (the toy) was his reward.
• A delivery person comes to the door with a package while you aren't home. Your dog, who is learning to alert when strangers come to the door, jumps at the picture window, barking and banging on the window. The delivery person leaves the package and walks away. Your dog has just learned that the barking and lunging "chased" the stranger in uniform away.

LACK of training on your part is STILL TRAINING!!

• Your dog shows fear of thunderstorms, fireworks and gunshots.
  During a nasty thunderstorm, his eyes bug, ears go back - he paces and pants with his mouth wide open. You go to him and stroke him calmly, murmuring, "It's OK, it's ok." The next thunderstorm happens a few weeks later, and he acts worse. He tries to dig under the dresser or hides in the tub. You go to him, hug him and pet him and again tell him "It's OK, you're alright.". You wonder why his fear reaction has increased when you are working so hard to calm him. He IS learning - and you ARE teaching him! You are teaching him to be afraid of storms. Petting, stroking, hugging, soothing talk - all are ways to PRAISE your dog (more about this in an upcoming article). In this example, the dog is being inadvertently praised for his fearful behavior.
• "He acts JUST FINE at home. I don't know WHY he gets so crazy here at dog school."
  I'll tell you why. When you do your training sessions at home, you chase the kids outside, turn off the radio and TV (because it distracts you), go to a quiet room or basement and just train. Then, when the dog encounters all the external stimulation at dog school, he can't handle it because he wasn't TRAINED with it. In order to have a TRAINED dog, he must be taught to behave correctly in ANY situation he will encounter: crowds, groups of dogs, vet clinic, groomer, front of your house, down the street, in your backyard, at the park during a ball game, when it is sunny, rainy, snowing, blowing, cold, hot, with birds, cats or squirrels around - ANY situation or place you can think of.

TRAINED is what you accept, promote and control.

• "If I leave him outside for a while, what can he get into?"
• "If he isn't be crated when I'm not home, what can happen that I cannot control?"
• "I know if I leave food on the counter, he will eat it when I'm not looking. How can I work to change this?"
• "If that loose dog runs up to us in the park, how can I handle the situation?"
• "I see a squirrel/cat ahead on our walk and I know my dog will want to chase. How do I control his actions BEFORE he gets out of control?"

TRAINING means working and thinking one step ahead of your dog.

• Your dog loves to fetch. Balls, toys, anything will work. He always tries to get you to participate by jumping on your lap and depositing a toy. This time, you are reading the paper and your dog jumps up with his toy and crumples the paper. "NO!, I don't WANT to play!", you say as you toss the toy away. Your dog retrieves the toy and comes back (he thinks "that throw was OK, but let's try for a better one!") This time, he doesn't jump on your lap, but nudges under the paper at your hand. You push him away several times, telling him "NO!", until finally you get angry, take the toy and throw it and tell him to go away. Your dog has just learned that patience is a virtue. If he pesters you long enough, he'll get to play!
• You meet up with a friend on your walk with your dog, and you stop to chat for a while. Your dog is impatient, and starts to pace and prance. You are busy talking, but want him to sit quietly at your side. Telling him firmly to SIT, you go back to your conversation and don't realize he never sat. Your dog has just learned that he can ignore your commands. Seeing later that he didn't SIT, you tell him again. Again he ignores your command. Finally, you break away from your conversation and angrily command him to SIT. Well, he has learned he can ignore your commands UNTILL you get mad!
• Eating dinner, or even snacks, causes your dog to sit at your feet, drool and stare. You wish he wouldn't be such a beggar. After several minutes of enduring the stares and getting no response to your commands to "go and lie down", you give in and hand him some food from your dish. Dogs learn very easily to be patient (and persistent) to get what they want.

TRAINING means consistency and meaning what you convey both verbally and non-verbally.

TRAINING means following through with your commands.

• When your dogs does what you want, when you want - LET HIM KNOW!
  You certainly let him know when he is bad - you need to concentrate on when he is GOOD, so he will know and learn.

There is a law in dog training that says: YOU HAVE THE DOG YOU WANT

...Think about it...

Fighting furry furies?

Dogs and cats don't always have to fight like cats and dogs

Introduction

Integrating cat and dog

• Always supervise cats and dogs until you know they will get along. Some adult dogs will carry kittens around, and young kittens will accept this attention, but it’s probably best to gently take the kitten away from the dog to avoid injury.
• If you have more than one dog, do not allow them to gang up on the cat. Two dogs make a small pack; the cat may look like quarry to one and he may entice the other into a hunt. It’s best to introduce the cat to one dog at a time so that each dog understand that the cat is part of the family, not an object of play or prey.
• Make sure the dog does not have access to the cat’s litter box. Sooner or later, unless you can check the box several times a day and clean it immediately, Fido will eat the cat droppings. Some owners handle this problem by placing the litter box in a room accessible by a cat door so the dog can’t get in.
• Separate cats and dogs at mealtime. As complete carnivores, cats need a diet that includes the amino acid taurine; if the dog eats the cat’s food and all the cat gets is leavings in the dog bowl, the cat might develop a dietary deficiency. In addition, a dog that guards his food could attack the cat or gulp his meals too quickly and develop digestive problems.
• Don’t leave thawing meat, cooling desserts, or any other food or scraps where a cat can get them. Not only will the cat jump to the table or counter or spill the waste basket, but he will either drop things on the floor for the dog or send the dog into a frenzy of frustrated whining and barking. Some dogs will bark whenever a cat leaps or climbs to a surface used for food.
• If your dog has a high prey drive, make sure to teach the command "leave it" so you can control his chase impulse. It’s best to prevent the pursuit, for once the chase sequence starts, the dog will likely be deaf to instructions.
• Make sure the cat gets plenty of opportunity to stalk and pounce on things other than the dog’s tail.
• Pay attention to both pets as often as possible. You can tell Fido to "down-stay" while you hold the kitten in your lap and tell him matter-of-factly that this newcomer is now part of the family and you will accept no rough stuff. Often the attitude and attention of the owner is enough to prevent serious rivalries or hostilities from developing.

No! Down! Bad dog!

When jumping dogs drive you crazy...

Q. My dog loves to jump on people. I don’t mind if she jumps on me, but I really don’t want her to jump on others. I have heard lots of things to do to her when she jumps, but so far they only make her more crazy and have not worked. What can I do?

A. First, you have to teach your dog not to jump on you. Start with No Jumping 101. Take a treat firmly in your hand. Let your dog sniff, lick, and get all excited about the treat. Raise the treat so she cannot reach it. If she hasn’t already jumped, encourage her to do so. Let her jump, climb, bark, whine, and get very frustrated trying to get to the treat.

As soon as all four paws return to the floor, click and treat!

Repeat in different locations, with all kinds of body postures, and with various toys and treats; click and treat when her feet remain super-glued to the floor.

Next step: no jumping at all – no walking around or hopping up and down on hind legs; in other words, no doggie feet leave the ground. Paws are nailed to the floor!

Now it’s time to make the game more difficult. Work until you can pet your dog, attach a leash to her collar, and examine her while she sits or stands without her licking, wiggling, and sniffing. That’s a real challenge! When your dog never jumps on you and respects your hands and face while you are petting and grooming her, you are ready for …

Terrier Terrors!!!

Q: Help! My Jack Russell Terrier is only eight months old but he’s already out of control. I can’t seem to teach him anything or make him do what he’s told. Heck, I can’t even get his attention most of the time! He won’t come when he’s called and I can’t trust him off leash. I took him to obedience class once but that didn’t make any difference. The instructor gave up on him. I’m at the end of my rope – is there anything I can do?

A: The qualities that make terriers so appealing – courage, boldness and a fun-loving spirit – can also make them difficult to live with. Unlike most breeds, terriers were bred to work independently of people. Retrievers, for example, instinctively know how to retrieve but they expect their people to tell them when, how and what to retrieve. Terriers, on the other hand, were intended to roam their owners’ property on their own, seeking out and killing rats and assorted vermin. They were expected to work by themselves without human intervention and make their own decisions. Many terriers, in fact, don’t see people as their "masters" at all but as nuisances that are interfere with their fun!

Terrier authority Pam Bishop of the Fox Terrier Network says that Jack Russells are actually fairly easy to train but that training must be done differently than with other breeds. She stresses that terriers just want to have fun – literally! The pursuit of fun is their main goal in life. Anything that prevents them from having a good time becomes an obstacle to be overcome. Being very smart and curious, they are able to figure things out quickly and are easily bored by standard obedience classes.

Along with their sharp, inquisitive minds, terriers were bred to have exceptional courage and persistence. They don’t back down to anything and that includes their owners! Pam says that it’s next to impossible to make a terrier do something it doesn’t want to, another handicap to standard training methods. They also have a remarkable (and frustrating!) ability, because of their keen hunting instincts, to key in on something and tune out everything else around them, including their owners’ commands.

Pam recommends that, for best results, a terrier should be well-socialized before starting obedience class. Take your dog daily for walks on leash outside of his own yard and property. Let him see, hear, investigate and get used to new sights and sounds. Walks make constructive use of your terrier’s endless supply of energy, too.

To successfully train a terrier, Pam says, training must be fast-paced, fun, and designed to take advantage of the dog’s natural intelligence and curiosity. They catch on quickly and become bored with repetition. Pam suggests keeping training sessions very short and changing the exercises around. Terriers love not knowing what’s coming next! They like excitement and the mental challenge of figuring out what you want. If you make it too easy, they’ll find something more interesting to do.

Likewise, terriers become bored at standard obedience classes waiting around while other dogs work. They like to be the center of attention and want to be "on" all the time. Being naturally domineering creatures, they often challenge other dogs whom they think are stealing their attention.

Use food treats liberally - most terriers are highly food-motivated. Rather than correct the dog for mistakes (which simply makes terriers angry and more stubborn), use positive motivation by rewarding them generously for what they’ve done right. For terriers, training -must- be fun or the dog will simply refuse to learn anything.

Pam reports that "clicker" training, a positive motivation method that inspires a dog to think, is quite successful with Jack Russells and other lively terriers. To find out more about clicker training, I recommend Karen Pryor’s book "Don't Shoot the Dog : The New Art of Teaching and Training".

Jack Russell owner Dean Williamson shares a few tips from his experience living with this breed as well as other terriers: Dean says that JRT’s are very pack-oriented and need a clear understanding of where they fit in their human family’s pecking order. Without firm rules to follow, they will put themselves in charge of your household. Crate training is essential to successfully living with a terrier, Dean says. Your JRT should sleep in his crate at night, not in your bed. At dinner time, it’s important that your family, and especially your children, finish their meal before the dog is fed.

If your dog begs or gets into mischief while the family eats, put him in his crate.

Both Dean and Pam remind owners that no matter how much training they do, their terriers will never be dependable off leash because of their deeply rooted hunting instincts and natural impulsiveness. Their instantaneous reaction to anything that looks like it should be chased or investigated causes them to completely forget their training. Instinct will always override their owners’ commands. Therefore, Pam says, a terrier owner should never depend on obedience training when the dog is in a potentially dangerous situation.

Dean stresses that active terriers need an exercise, play and obedience session every day to keep them manageable. He agrees with Pam that hitting or spanking a terrier just doesn’t work, it only makes them stubborn and aggressive. Instead, use psychology and remember their strongest motivation in life is to have fun – you must make it fun for them to do whatever it is you want!

Who’s in Charge Here, Anyway?

Q: Help! Our one year old dog doesn’t seem to have any respect for us. He’s been to obedience class but he seldom obeys our commands. He’s always grabbing our hands or head butting us when he wants something. He’s become very demanding. He never seems to get enough attention even though we give him attention all the time. He even body slams us out of the way at the door so he can get outside first. He’s a very loving dog but we need to get him under control. He’s too big to be telling us what to do!

A: You’re absolutely right! It sounds like your dog has a dominance problem and is on his way toward becoming the leader of your family – his pack. He has also reached the age of adolescence where, similar to a teenaged child, he’s testing your limits. Now is an ideal time to nip these problems in the bud.

A dog’s social system has a pecking order. The leader of the pack is the "alpha." He (or she) gets the best of everything – the best food, the best place to sleep, the best toy, etc. The alpha also gets to be first in everything – he gets to eat first, to leave first and to get attention first. All the other dogs in the pack respect the alpha dog’s wishes. An alpha dog doesn’t ask for what he wants, he demands it. He lets you know in no uncertain terms that he wants his dinner, that he wants to go out, that he wants to play or be petted and that he wants these things right now.

Your family is your dog’s pack. Most dogs fit easily into the lower levels of their human pack’s pecking order and don’t make trouble. They do what they’re told and don’t challenge authority. Other dogs don’t fit in quite as well. Some are natural leaders, others are social climbers always looking for ways to get a little closer to the top of the family ladder. These dogs can become problems to an unsuspecting family that’s not aware of their natural pack instincts. Some families unknowingly encourage their dogs to take over the pack. They treat their dogs as equals, not as subordinates. They give them special privileges like being allowed to sleep on the bed or couch. They let them get away with disobeying commands. In a real dog pack, only the alpha dog would get this kind of treatment.

Dogs need – and want – leaders. They have an instinctive need to fit into a pack. They want the security of knowing their place and what’s expected of them. Most of them don’t want to be alpha – they want someone else to give orders and make decisions. But if his humans don’t provide that leadership, the dog will take over the role himself. To reclaim your family’s rightful place as leaders of the pack, your dog needs to learn how to be a subordinate, not an equal. He knew this once, as a baby puppy, because his mother taught him. She showed him very early in life that she was alpha and that he had to respect her. It’s time to refresh his memory!

Before you can remove your dog from his alpha position, you must become alpha and earn his respect. Alpha is an attitude. It involves confidence, dignity, intelligence, an air of authority. A dog can sense this attitude almost immediately – it’s how his mother acted toward him. Watch a good trainer or obedience instructor. They stand tall and use their voices and eyes to project the idea that they’re capable of getting what they want. They’re gentle but firm, loving but tough, all at the same time. Most dogs are immediately submissive towards this type of personality because they recognize and respect alpha when they see it.

Stand up straight with your shoulders back. Walk tall. Practice using a new tone of voice, one that’s deep and firm. Don’t ask your dog to do something – tell him. There’s a difference and he knows it! As alpha, you’re entitled to make the rules and give the orders. Your dog understands that instinctively.

Since your dog has been used to getting what he wants on demand, it’s likely to take more than just a change in your attitude to make him mind better. He’s been getting a free ride for a long time but you’re going to teach him that from now on, he has to earn what he gets. This will be a shock to his system at first but you’ll be surprised how quickly he’ll catch on and that he’ll actually become eager to please you.

Your dog already knows the command SIT. Now, every time your dog wants something – his dinner, a trip outside, a walk, some attention, anything – tell him (remember don’t ask him, tell him) to sit first. When he does, praise him with a "Good Boy!" then tell him OKAY and give him whatever it is he wants as a reward. If he refuses to sit, walk away and ignore him. No sit, no reward. If you don’t think he understands the command, work on his training some more. If he just doesn’t want to obey, ignore him – don’t give him what he wants or reward him in any fashion.

Make him sit before giving him his dinner, make him sit at the door before going outside, make him sit in front of you to be petted, make him sit before giving him his toy. If you normally leave food out for him all the time, stop. Go to a twice daily feeding and you decide what time of day he’ll be fed. Make him sit for his dinner. If he won’t obey the command – no dinner. Walk away and ignore him. Bring the food out later and tell him again to sit. If he understands the command, don’t tell him more than once. He heard you the first time. Give commands from a standing position and use a deep, firm tone of voice. To keep him from body-slamming you at the doorway, put a leash on him. Make him sit and wait while you open the door and give him permission – OKAY! – to go out.

Alpha dogs are used to being fussed over. In a real dog pack, subordinate dogs are forever touching, licking and grooming the alpha dog. It’s a show of respect and submission. Until your dog’s attitude has improved, cut down on the amount of cuddling he gets. When he wants attention, make him sit first, give him a few kind words and pats, then stop. Go back to whatever you were doing and ignore him. If he pesters you, tell him NO! in a firm voice and ignore him some more. Pet him when you want to, not just because he wants you to. Also, don’t get down on the floor or on your knees to pet your dog. That, too, is a show of submission. Give praise, petting and rewards from a position that’s higher than the dog.

Don’t allow wrestling or rough-housing with your dog. These games encourage dogs to dominate people physically. In a dog pack or in a litter, these games are more than just playing – they help to establish pack order based on physical strength. Your dog is already stronger and quicker than you are. Rough, physical games prove that to him.

Where does your dog sleep? Not in your bedroom and especially not on your bed! Your bedroom is a special place – it’s your den. An alpha dog thinks he has a right to sleep in your den because he considers himself your equal. Until your dog’s alpha problems are fully under control, the bedroom should be off-limits. The same goes for sleeping on furniture. If you can’t keep him off the couch without a fight, deny him access to the room.

If your alpha program is successful, your dog should start looking to you for directions and permission. He’ll show an eagerness to please. Watch how your dog approaches and greets you. Does he come to you "standing tall," with his head and ears held high and erect? It may look impressive and proud but it means he’s still alpha and you still have problems! A dog that accepts humans as superiors will approach you with his head slightly lowered and his ears back or off to the sides. He’ll "shrink" his whole body a little in a show of submission. Watch how he greets all the members of the family. If he displays this submissive posture to some of them, but not others, those are the ones who need to work harder on their own alpha techniques.

Once your dog has begun to accept this new way of life and his new position in the family, you should take him through another obedience course with a qualified trainer. Obedience training is a lifelong process. Obedience commands need to be practiced and incorporated into your daily life. In a dog pack, the alpha animal uses occasional reminders to reinforce his authority. Certain commands, like DOWN/STAY, are especially effective reminders of a dog’s place in the family pack order and who’s really in charge here. A well-trained dog that’s secure in his place within the family pack is comfortable and confident. He knows what’s expected of him. He knows his limits and who his leaders are. He’s free to be your loving companion and not your boss!

Dogs Must be Taught to Not Bite

How to do it depends on the dog's age