Training Aids
| Helpful Guides - Discipline and Training |
Canine Training Aids – Product Information for Dog Owners
The articles compiled on this page by ABC Pet Services are meant to provide pet owners with helpful information about a selection of dog products often found helpful as training aids. For example, there are a total of four articles containing great information about crates and crate training.
There are a lot of decisions to make as a pet owner, because there are now more product options available to help increase owner convenience as well as solve dog behavior problems. For example, a dog that pulls on its lead is not only not under the command of the owner, but may also be causing the owner physical inconvenience or pain; so, you’ll find informational articles covering the seven collar-types: traditional collars, harnesses, halter collars, chain-slipped, pronged collars, head collars, and bark collars. The type, size, strength, daily activities, or particular behaviors of you and your dog all factor into which of these you eventually select.
Plus, there’s information about training tools, such as remote trainers; and behavior modifiers, such as bark collars; and convenience items, such as dog doors, and more.
If you have a particular question about training aids or dog obedience, please contact Anthony Moyer (contact info is at the bottom of all our pages) for a knowledgeable and professional answer.
Articles: (11)
Choosing the Right Collar for Your Dog
Electronic Bark Control Collars: General FAQs
Why Consider a Remote Training System?
Nametags: The Best Insurance for Lost Pets
Pet Containment Selection Guide
Plastic or Wire Crate: Which is Appropriate?
The Many Benefits of Pet Doors
Choosing the Right Collar for your Dog
There are many styles of collars to choose from depending on your dog's size and disposition, and your training need. For the majority of dogs, a traditional nylon or leather collar is sufficient. Other collars for specific situations are described below. This article does not include remote training collars.
Traditional Collars: Traditional collars are available in a variety of styles, colors, and widths and should ride high on your pet's neck, not loose so that it slides down near the top of his shoulder blades. Use a tape measure to measure your pet's neck, then add on two to three inches.
Collars should be snug with enough room to fit two fingers between your dog's neck and his collar. For your dog's safety, the collar should not be loose enough to slip over the pet's head. In addition to the risk of losing a pet that gets away, loose collars are more easily snagged on objects, and many pets die every year from accidental hanging. For this reason, collars should not be worn in wire cages. Collars should also not be so tight as to restrict breathing or cause coughing. Check collar size frequently on growing puppies.
Choose collar and lead width with hardware that matches pet's size. Smaller, lightweight choices are for small dogs and puppies, and wider, more durable styles are for bigger, stronger pets.
Every collar you own should have a current nametag attached to it at all times.
Harnesses: Harnesses, which go around the neck and around the shoulders behind the front legs, are recommended for dogs who have upper respiratory disease or diseases of the throat or trachea, such as a collapsed trachea. If a dog with a collar pulls on the leash, it places pressure on the throat and trachea, causing irritation and coughing. Harnesses relieve that pressure.
Halter-type Collars will give you the best control over your dog. They give you control of your dog's head and when you have control of the dog's head, you have control of the dog. There are several brands of these halter-type collars including the Halti head collar. These collars look more like a horse's halter, with a band going around the back of the head, and another around the nose. The leash snaps onto the collar under the chin. When you pull on the leash, the dog's head will either be pulled down or to the side - this makes it virtually impossible for the dog to move ahead or pull you forward.
Some people are hesitant to use the collar since they feel it looks more like a muzzle than a collar. You may have people ask you about the collar, but more often than not, when you are through explaining it, they will ask you where they can get one for their dog.
Chain-slip Collars: Chain-slip collars, also called check chain or 'choke collars,' provide effective training and retraining tools when used correctly and on appropriate dogs. These collars are most often used for dogs that are strong-willed, pull when on a lead, or those that do not respond to training when wearing traditional collars.
If you plan to use a choke collar on your dog, have a trainer show you how to use it correctly. Correct usage involves a quick 'tug-and-release' action (as opposed to a steady pulling) that tells the pet a different behavior is desired. These collars should only be worn during training sessions, never in a crate, and avoided in pets with delicate tracheas, such as Yorkshire Terriers.
For correct sizing, measure your pet's neck and add 2-1/2"- 3". There is a right and wrong way to put a slip collar on a dog. To correctly place a collar on a dog, the top ring on a properly-looped collar forms a letter P when you stand in front of the dog and pull it snug. If it forms the number 9, it is on backward and may not release immediately as designed, which may cause discomfort or gagging.
Pronged Collars: Pronged Collars, also called pinch collars, contain blunt prongs that protrude inward from the links. Designed for only the most stubborn pullers, they are temporary training tools used to change behavior on dogs that do not respond to any other collar. Halter-type collars give you more control and are much less likely to harm your dog.
We have found that owners who know how to correctly train dogs rarely need these types of collars. Rather, they learned they were training their pet incorrectly, and were able to successfully train their dog using other collars after learning proper methods.
Electronic Bark Control Collars: General FAQsHow do the collars work? When the collar senses the vibration of the vocal cords, it will administer the electrical correction via two collar probes. Depending on the manufacturer, some collars deliver the correction at the intensity level you selected, while others deliver a mild "warning" electrical stimulus prior to delivering a correction at the pre-determined intensity level. Still other collars feature a system that automatically increments intensity levels if the dog continues to bark. Do the collars pick up other noises, like collar tags or other dogs barking and correct my dog? I have a small dog; will the correction be too strong for my dog? If my dog "growls" will this set off the bark collar? How should the collar be placed on my dog's neck? Can I use a bark control collar on my puppy? Can another collar be worn with the bark control collar? How is the stimulation level adjusted? How long can the collar be on my dog? How long does the battery need to be charged? |
Why Consider a Remote Training System?
Your training "toolbox" may include a number of traditional tools, such as leashes, chain collars, treats, and toys. While these tools can be very successful while the dog is leashed, their effectiveness may diminish when the dog is off leash. If one of your training goals is to have a reliable dog off leash, one tool to consider adding to your training program is an electronic remote training collar. Remote training systems allow you to control your dog from a distance. All remote training systems consist of a handheld transmitter that operates the collar remotely via radio frequency. When a button is pressed on the transmitter, the collar delivers a small harmless electrical sensation to your dog. Remote trainers offer you many benefits. The biggest benefit is control of your dog while he is off his leash. When properly trained, you can take your dog virtually anywhere (to the park, to the beach, in to the woods, etc.) and be confident that he will obey your commands just as if you had him on a leash by your side. This off-leash control could be a matter of life and death in cases where your dog is heading for a road, heading for the water, or chasing another animal. Today's remote trainers offer a multitude of features, such as a wide range of distances, waterproof collars, different stimulation modes, tone and vibration options, etc. All remote trainers offer adjustable electrical stimulation intensity levels (low to high). But some models offer four adjustable levels, while some offer 50 or even 100! Choosing which remote training system is right for you and your pet requires careful consideration of each collar's features. Remote trainers can be grouped into three categories: short-range, medium range, and long range. Short range training (100 - 150 yards) Short range training also called "yard training" consists of obedience work and behavior correction within a relatively short range - no more than 150 yards. Short range trainers are an excellent choice for working with your dog in your backyard or in your home. They can be used to reinforce basic obedience commands or correct unwanted behavior such as digging or getting into the trash. Medium range training (150 - 500 yards) Medium range training consists of obedience work and behavior correction over a larger distance, perhaps at a park or farm or ranch. Medium-range trainers allow you additional flexibility by offering advanced features such as multiple tone or vibrate options, more choice in stimulation intensity, and even LCD displays on some transmitters. Long range training (500 yards - 1 mile) Long range training consists of controlling your dog over larger distances, such as hunting and field work. Professional dog trainers have been successfully using remote training collars for years. But now remote training collars are rapidly gaining popularity with pet owners as a safe, humane, and effective training tool when used properly. The objective of remote training collars is to supplement traditional training methods by reinforcing commands you've already taught your dog and rules he thoroughly understands. Eventually your dog learns that he is in control of the stimulation he receives. He does not associate the stimulation with you. He associates the stimulation with his behavior. Therefore, he learns to control the stimulation by controlling his behavior. When used properly, the remote trainer helps your dog become less confused and more confident in you and your leadership. In other words, a happier dog! |
We all want our dogs to be well-behaved, delightful companions. At a minimum, your dog needs to know basic obedience commands, such as sit, stay, come, down, and heel. In addition to being more enjoyable, an obedient dog is a safe dog.Nametags: The Best Insurance for Lost Pets
Choose a tag that appeals to you and contains any necessary information needed to safely and quickly return your pet to you:
Nametag tips:
Collars and tags are a reliable way to identify your pet should he become lost. You may also want to make an appointment with your veterinarian to accurately identify your pet by other methods as well, such as microchipping or tattooing. Make sure your dog or cat always wears a current identification tag. |
The saddest part about losing a pet is that it could often have been prevented with some sort of identification. Over and over again we hear from our customers that a nametag was the reason they were reunited with their lost dog or cat. The proper ID tag with your name and contact information can save you hours of grief-stricken searching. 
Wire Crates
Crates
Pet Gates
Room & Surface Barriers
Vehicle Restraints & Containment
Underground & Instant Fences
Exercise Pens & Kennels
Dog Houses
Pet doors, designed for use in standard doors, sliding doors, or in walls (for room-to-room access), maximize your convenience and your dog's comfort by giving him the freedom to go out to eliminate or exercise whenever necessary. Many dog owners install a pet door which leads to an outside kennel or fenced yard, to ensure that their dog cannot run away. Pet doors are an ideal choice if your work day prevents you from letting your dog out at appropriate intervals during the day. They also help minimize the mess and odors of accidents, save your doors from unsightly scratch marks, and reduce boredom-related problem behavior. Many pet doors are also made with energy-efficient seals to keep the weather out. A wide variety of sizes and styles to fit any dog, combined with easy installation, make pet doors a good choice in controlling your dog's access to the outdoors.
Pet CarriersPlastic crate or wire crate: Which is appropriate for your dog?
Advantages of wire crates Many wire crates are collapsible, fold & carry styles, making them easier to store and transport. Wire crates can be sized to your growing dog with removable divider panels that expand living space. Wire crates are easier to clean - particularly crates with the new, seamless style polyethylene floor pans. They offer better ventilation and provide better visibility for your pet. A wire crate needs to be sturdy and escape proof. You have the choice of a perfect at-home Square Back Cage or an at-home/travel Fold & Carry Cage. Both have durable, easy-clean polyethylene trays and cam-type locks that thwart the smartest dog's escape attempts. Advantages of plastic crates If you travel with your pet by plane, plastic crates are required by law. Also, some owners feel plastic crates provide a greater sense of security and privacy. A plastic crate may be useful for high-activity households, particularly those with young children. Size The right size crate is one in which your pet can lie down, turn around, and have three to four inches of extra head space when sitting or standing. While the right-sized cage may seem too confining or too small to you, it isn't for your dog. Special note for puppy owners: If you put your puppy in a crate that's too large, your pup will eliminate in a "remote" corner. Either buy a puppy crate you will only use for training, or buy a crate that you can use throughout your dog's life and add a divider panel when the dog is smaller to reduce the area to the appropriate size. If you feel uneasy about crating your dog, we strongly encourage you to talk to your veterinarian, professional trainer, or other pet owners who have used crates. Anyone who knows dogs will know the value of crates. |
Dogs are naturally den animals. If introduced correctly, a wire cage or plastic crate provides a sense of security - a refuge where your dog can go whenever he needs to get away from the high activity level of your home or just wants some peace and quiet. The Many Uses of Gates
Many clients have told us what they use their gates for and here are some of their uses:
As you can see, well-placed gates can solve many different problems. See if a gate can solve one of yours! |
A gate placed at various locations inside your house can save you a lot of frustration, can save your furnishings, and can even save your pet. The Many Benefits of Pet DoorsConvenience for you Comfort for your pet Fewer accidents Exercise Save your door Healthy mental stimulation Reduces boredom - related problem behavior
For some reason, pet doors are one of those products people tend to overlook or not consider. But they really are a huge convenience, and people who do have them, love them. Today's doors have multiple locking options so you can have total control over your pets' access, plus they are made with energy-efficient seals to keep the weather out. If you have a fence, an electronic boundary system, or some type of outdoor containment (many pet owners have a pet door leading to an outside kennel), a pet door provides many benefits you and your pet are sure to appreciate. |
EASY installationDog CratesThe Crate: A Modern Dog Den "Canis familiaris," the domestic dog, is descended from "Canis lupus," the wolf. Many thousands of years ago, wolves hung around caves, stealing morsels from man at the dawn of civilization. Submissive wolves may have left their canine pack to take up residence at the periphery of human camps. In return for watchdog duty, these beasts probably received food, shelter, and companionship in the human pack. Genetic variability and mutations in wolves produced domestic dogs of an amazing variety of sizes, shapes, and colors, dogs that were further refined into breeds created for specific purposes. Although the terrier puppy has never seen the great north woods and the Samoyed down the street never hunted a moose with a silent pack of wolves, they have wolf habits in common with all other breeds of dogs. All puppies, in the manner of wolves, need a den. Pianos and tables make great dens, but furniture doesn't have sides for confinement. Laundry rooms, spare bathrooms, and even playpens are too big for a puppy den; there's enough room in these enclosures for the pup to defecate or urinate in one area and still have room to play or sleep without stepping in the mess. In the wolf den, the mother wolf cleans up the cubs feces until the youngsters are old enough to defecate away from the den. The cubs learn that the den is a place to keep clean as well as a place of safety and comfort. A modern den can be a Fiberglas or wire crate that can be kept in any room in the house. It should be barely large enough for the pup to lie down comfortably. If your pup is one of the large breeds and you don't want to buy several crates as he grows, buy an adult-size crate and partition it so it fits his current size. The crate is a multi-purpose piece of dog paraphernalia. It can be used for: Housetraining Simply take the pup outside after each nap or meal. Do not play with him until he has done his business. If he hasn't relieved himself in about 10 minutes, take him back inside and put him in the crate. Repeat the routine in 10-15 minutes. Remember, no play until the pup does hid business and lots of praise when he gets the idea. Protection from excited toddlers. Children need to learn that the pup needs some quiet time. A blanket over a wire crate will help a child understand that it's time for Ranger to rest. Playpen for puppies when you're not home. If you need to take the kids to school or go to the grocery store, the pup that's crated will not chew the furniture or wet the carpet while you're gone. If he has already wet the carpet or chewed the furnitue, you can put him in the crate and issue a stern warning that there'll be no more of that going on. Sanctuary for the over-excited pup. Don't let Rambo run amok through the house, terrorizing the cat, the kids, and the furniture, and don't feel guilty about restricting his freedom. Sending the pup to his crate is somewhat akin to sending a child to his room: he feels comfortable there and he knows you are angry, and you have a chance to recover from his outburst. After the pup is housebroken, leave the crate open during the day. You'll find that the pup will nap in the crate by choice. You can continue to put the pup in the crate when you'll be away from the house as long as you don't leave puppies and young dogs confined too long and make sure they have plenty of exercise when you are home. People often cringe at the thought of putting their beloved Star in a box or cage. They think confinement is cruel. After all, people don't want to be enclosed in a space they can barely turn around in. But puppies aren't people. Their wolf ancestors found comfort, safety, and shelter in their dens, and modern dogs find solace and satisfaction in their own space as well. |
More on Dog CratesDog Crate Q & A Everyone says I should get a crate for my dog. Why? I don't want to put my dog in a cage! If dog crates were designed to look like little dog houses, it might be easier to convince people that they're -- not -- cages! First, let's talk about what a crate really is and how they can improve your relationship with your dog. Long ago, when dogs were still wild animals, they often slept in dens - shallow holes they dug in the ground hidden away in places where they felt safe from predators. These were small, dark places, just big enough to turn around in and to lie down comfortably. Even after centuries of selective breeding and living in people's homes, dogs still retain some of their ancient instincts. One of these instincts is the desire to have a den - a small, cozy place of their very own where they can feel safe and secure. A "crate" is just a modern version of a den. In other words, it's a dog house within your house. Just as you enjoy having your own room where you can go for peace and privacy, your dog likes having his own room, too! As well as giving him a safe, cozy place to stay, crates can make training your dog a lot easier. Housebreaking goes much faster when you use a crate and destructive chewing becomes easier to control. Traveling is safer for both you and your dog when he's in a crate. As you may have unhappily discovered, it's very hard nowadays to find a motel that allows pets. Many motels, though, allow -crated- dogs. Finding a rental apartment that will allow pets is becoming next to impossible but many landlords can be persuaded to accept tenants with crate-trained dogs. Where can I find a crate? The most likely place to buy a crate is at your local pet supply store. You can find them at hardware and department stores, too. For the largest selection and sometimes, the best value, a wholesale pet supply company may be your best bet. You can find these companies through ads in popular dog magazines. It pays to shop around. Crates come in several styles and materials and some are sturdier or more convenient than others. What kind should I get? The most popular crates are made of plastic or heavy welded steel wire. Plastic crates are molded two-piece units with ventilation areas along the sides and a welded steel wire door in front. They're lightweight, portable and are easily taken apart for storage or travel. Some of them come in decorator colors! Most plastic crates meet federal regulations for airline travel. The quality of plastic crates varies between manufacturers and you'll need to get one sturdy enough to resist chewing. Wire crates are very popular and depending on your dog's needs, may be a better purchase than plastic. You'll need to shop more carefully for a wire crate because quality and style vary greatly. Some of them are flimsy and not meant to be collapsed for storage. Others, advertised as "collapsible", do so only with great difficulty and don't fold down to a convenient size. Look for sturdy crates with heavy gauge wire that are easily folded down into a "suitcase-style" shape for transportation and storage. Although they aren't approved for airline use, I prefer wire crates because they offer better ventilation. How big should it be? A crate need only be big enough for the dog to stand up, turn around and lie down comfortably. I like them to be just long enough for my dogs to stretch out on their sides to sleep. Growing puppies can be a problem when buying a crate. Not everyone can afford to buy a new one for each stage of growth but too large a crate can make a puppy harder to housebreak. Fortunately, dividers are available for some brands so you can shrink and expand the puppy's space as needed. How much will it cost? You can expect to pay between $50 - 125 for a quality crate for a medium to large dog. While it may sound like a lot, a good crate will outlive several dogs and quickly pays for itself in peace of mind and undamaged carpets, furniture and belongings. How does a crate make housebreaking easier? Along with their natural instinct to sleep in a den, puppies are born with the instinctive desire to keep their dens clean. Given the opportunity, most puppies will seek out an area to relieve themselves that's far away from where they eat, play and sleep. Using a crate takes advantage of this natural tendency and helps the puppy to learn to control himself in between trips outside. During the first few months, puppies require almost constant supervision, something that's hard to do with our busy lifestyles. Using a crate helps you to prevent accidents when you can't watch your puppy every single minute. Housebreaking is easier to accomplish when accidents are prevented in the first place, rather than correcting the puppy afterward. Using a crate, a place that the puppy is naturally reluctant to use as a bathroom, combined with a regular feeding and exercise schedule will make housebreaking go faster as well as saving your carpets and your sanity! My dog chews up everything in sight when I'm not home! How will a crate help that? Just as you crate an unhousebroken puppy to prevent accidents when he can't be supervised, the same applies to a dog that chews or gets into mischief when you can't be there to watch him. Confined to a crate, a destructive dog is limited to chewing only on the toys you give him, not your cushions or woodwork!
How do I get my puppy used to a crate? I've tried putting him in it but he cries so much, I let him out after a few minutes. He doesn't like it and I feel sorry for him. If small children and puppies could have their way, they'd choose to run free all the time without any restrictions. Unfortunately, because they don't have the maturity to handle that freedom and keep themselves out of trouble, they have to learn to accept periods of confinement. The key word is "accept" - it doesn't mean they'll like it right away. Most dogs bark and complain during the first few days. Once they begin to accept this new restriction on their freedom, they quiet down and learn to enjoy it. Growing puppies alternate periods of activity and rest throughout the day. There's no reason they can't do their resting in a crate, like a baby taking a nap in a playpen or crib. By keeping the puppy on a regular schedule of feedings and exercise, you can control his natural rest periods. If you put the puppy in his crate when he's already tired and ready to settle down, he'll get used to his new "bedroom" faster. In the beginning, he should only be expected to stay in the crate for 2 hours at a time and overnight. During his periods out of the crate, your puppy needs plenty of playtime and attention. I like to give puppies at least an hour between crating periods where they're played with, loved, allowed to explore and romp. This burns off their boundless puppy energy and helps them understand that crating is only a temporary thing. Special toys and treats help make his "room" a pleasant place to stay. Give the puppy a small treat every time he has to go into his crate. Better still, toss the treat into the crate so he can jump in after it. (If you want him to learn to go in the crate on command, say "Kennel" when you toss the treat. He won't understand right away but before long he'll put three important things together in his mind - "Kennel" + Crate = Treat!) You've given him a reward for going into the crate, now you need to give him an incentive to stay in there quietly. Make his "room" comfortable. Get him a soft but hard to destroy blanket or bed. Get him a selection of toys but don't give them all to him at once, just one or two at a time. Rotate the toys. Puppies get bored easily and switching the toys around makes them seem new and exciting. Teething puppies love chew toys and all dogs love a sterilized beef bone with peanut butter stuffed in the middle. They can spend hours trying to clean it all out. Dogs learn quickly when their behavior is associated with a reward. Behavior that doesn't result in a reward often disappears when there's nothing in it for them. It's normal for many puppies to bark, whine, howl or throw tantrums when first being crate-trained. If you let your puppy out of the crate while he's upset, you'll be rewarding him for bad behavior. The next time he's supposed to go in his crate, he'll cry and bark again because that's what got him out the last time. For many puppies, just ignoring their complaints is enough to make them stop. If it doesn't get them anywhere, they soon give it up and find something better to do like sleep or play with a toy. Stubborn puppies might need a harsh-sounding "No!" and a rap on the top of the crate to help them get over their tantrums. Whatever you do, don't take him out of the crate until he's quieted down.
I've got an adult dog that's never been in a crate before. Is it too late to train her? No, it's never too late! Older dogs can often learn faster than puppies. At first let her smell and investigate the crate with the door open. Feed her meals in it and have her jump in and out of it for treats. Just as you would with a puppy, you should make the crate a comfortable place to be and keep crating periods short in the beginning. Once accustomed to them, many dogs enjoy spending time in the crates even when they don't have to. Crates are a favorite place to retreat with a new toy or get some relief from a rambunctious puppy or child. There are several crates around my house and at any given time, you can find dogs napping in them, the doors standing wide open. They even argue about who gets to use certain crates. Would they react this way to something they thought of as a cage? Not hardly! Some people say that using a crate for discipline makes the dog afraid of the crate, but others recommend the crate for this purpose. Who is right? A crate or dog cage can be a wonderful training tool when used correctly. Used incorrectly, or over used, it can be an instrument of fear and torture. Every dog, especially new puppies, should have a crate. Dogs are descended from wild canines that used dens for shelter. Most wild canines dig the den, a small, cozy, and safe haven to sleep and rear puppies. In our homes, domesticated dogs appreciate such a haven or den that should become the dog’s ‘room,’ a refuge where the dog can rest and feel safe. A crate is probably one’s best tool when it comes to the discipline of housetraining. The "discipline" aspect comes from a dog’s innate urges not to urinate or defecate in its den or bed. Even young puppies prefer to move as far away from their sleeping quarters as possible to relieve themselves. Usually, a puppy or dog who has an elimination accident in his crate was sick or couldn’t wait any longer. Crating a puppy or dog over night, or when the family is away during the day, also administers a passive form of discipline by preventing an energetic, curious dog from chewing up human belongings or electric cords. A crate keeps the dog safe, and out of trouble and is handy at times when it is necessary to have repairmen in or during holidays when the house is full of company. Bad crate discipline occurs when the crate is over used, or misused. Yes, a crate does get the dog out of the way occasionally, but some people misuse it to get the dog out of the way, most of the time. One study about dog surrenders to shelters found that dogs crated for long periods were more at risk for surrender because people used the crate to put the dog "out of sight, out of mind." Crating a dog for eight hours overnight or while you are at work is not cruel, especially if the dog is taken for a long walk or jog prior to crating. People who continuously crate a dog for longer periods should question why they wanted a dog in the first place. It is common to punish a human child by sending him to his room. Dogs are not children in fur coats, and this method is futile in teaching Fido a lesson. An all too common scenario is:
Let’s analyze this from Fido’s point of view. Whether caught in the act or punished minutes or hours later, Fido was probably not aware that the act he was committing was that horrible in human terms. He understands only that his owners are upset and that he came when he was called only to be punished for something he didn’t even know was bad. When disciplining a dog for committing bad behavior, it is important to catch him in the act of doing the deed. Dogs live in the moment and do not associate something they did five minutes or a half hour ago with the present. Often, an owner finds the mess and punishes the dog, not knowing whether the ‘sin’ was committed five minutes, a half hour, or longer ago. All the dog associates with being called over, punished, then shoved in a crate is that, "I came, I got punished for it, and I certainly won’t make the mistake of coming when called again." He also learns that the crate is a negative, scary place. Used for the discipline of keeping the dog safe until trustworthy, and housebreaking, a crate is a wonderful training tool. Used inappropriately, it can cause distress and hamper training progress. Used correctly, it may look like a crate to you, but to a dog, it’s his private room. Some hints for crate use:
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Head Collars
Head collars can prevent arm-yanking walks
If Tugger runs the Iditarod every time you clip a leash to his collar or if he becomes aggressive with dogs you meet on the street, a head collar may be a useful addition to your canine tool box.
The head collar is in widespread use in Britain and Europe. In this country, it is better known as a halter, a contraption more commonly seen on the head of a horse than on a dog. The head collar for dogs has two basic parts — the collar that fits snugly around the dog's neck just in back of his ears, and the face loop that fits loosely over his muzzle and allows complete and gentle control of the head. The face loop is not a muzzle. The dog can breathe, pant, eat, drink, and kiss your face while wearing the face loop.
The leash is attached to the head collar underneath the dog's chin. Most dogs fight the head collar at first, but if it is fitted correctly and if the handler coaxes the dog into acceptance, the dog will accept it in short order. The key is to maintain a happy attitude, give the dog treats when he walks without pawing at the face loop, and calmly control the dog if he tries to remove the loop.
Since the leash is attached to the head collar under the dog's chin, a gentle pressure upward on the leash will stop the dog from pawing at the loop. If the dog drops his head in preparation for pawing at the loop, just lift up and keep walking — and as soon as the dog stops struggling, praise and give him a treat.
If the dog does forge ahead, steady pressure on the leash will turn him back towards you and prevent that arm-out-of-the-socket dash down the road.
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