Canine Training and Cat Questions Pet Owners Often Ask
There’s a lot of information provided in the following dog training articles. This collection provides both dog and cat owners tips for specific training issues or answers to some “why do dogs (or cats) do that?” questions.
Many pet owners don’t realize that “they are not alone” and, thus, can become frustrated during training that seems unsuccessful. However, the particular issue may be quite a common owner difficulty for which experienced trainers have ready advice and solutions. It’s reassuring to know that a dog training issue you may be encountering (such as a dog that jumps up on visitors) is one that numerous other pet owners have worked through successfully. ABC Pet Services provides the following articles so more pet owners can benefit with this “first line” advice.
Are you dealing with specific negative or even destructive dog behaviors that need correction? If so, you can also check Negative Behaviors to see if your issue is addressed there.
If you need to schedule dog obedience classes or have additional questions, contact info is at the bottom of all our pages.
As everyone with a new puppy knows, housetraining is a necessity if our dogs are going to live with us. What you may not know is that with the right tools - both purchased and learned - housetraining does not have to be troublesome.
Check out this housetraining checklist to make sure you have the necessary tools that successful housetraining takes:
Buy a pup from a reliable breeder who has taken the time to start pups on the right track and who keeps the whelping box and kennel clean.
A crate is an invaluable tool. We have many pet owners commenting that crate training was easy after being initially skeptical.
A barrier gate confines your pup to a room with easy-to-clean floors if you don't want him in a crate and you just can't watch every move.
Papers, piddle pads, and piddle pad holder are a must if you're training pup to go inside.
Do you have plenty of treats to give pup when he's "done his duty?" Some pups are very food motivated.
Feeding on schedule helps pup's body get used to having to relieve himself on schedule.
Cleanup supplies – Natures Miracle and CLEAR Windex are great products for the inevitable accident.
Get a lead and collar so he can relieve himself under your control and so you can train pup to go in a certain area of the yard.
Good owner skills include: praise and not punishment. Punctuality. Getting your pup outside the moment he needs to go so he knows what's expected. Patience is what you need inside with a damp cloth in one hand and a bottle of CLEAR Windex in the other.
Take the time to teach your dog to be obedient on a lead.
Any pup over 8 weeks of age should be ready for a collar and lead, in fact, a lightweight nylon buckle or Quick-Klip collar that fits correctly should be your first purchase. It is best to wait until after your pup has become used to his collar before you attempt to introduce the lead. Leave the collar on as much as possible until your pup gets used to it. If he is in a cage or crate, remove the collar to prevent snagging. Do not use a choke chain collar on young puppies.
When choosing a lead, you must keep several things in mind. If you have a smaller dog that does not pull too hard, purchase a nylon or cotton lead. A chain or leather collar is best if you have a large breed or one that has a tendency to pull.
The lead length is totally up to you. If you are going to do obedience work, purchase a 6-foot lead - it is required in most classes. For just tooling around town with your pooch, a 4-foot lead will do. It will keep your dog near you and give you plenty of control. Retractable leads are also an option, but are best purchased once your pup is used to a regular lead and has had some control training.
Introduction
The first time you put the lead on your pup, attach it to his collar and allow him to get used to the feel by dragging it around the house or yard. Do this for about ten minutes a day for 5-7 days. Watch that he does not chew on the lead! If you have a fearful pup, distract him by throwing a ball or toy.
Once he is used to the feel of the lead, pick up the unattached end and hold it, following your pup wherever he goes. Keep the lead as loose as possible and don't worry at this point if the pup pulls. Repeat this step for about a week.
When the pup starts pulling you around most of the time, it's your turn to take some control. But make it fun. Take along a favorite toy, a ball or even a special treat. Then, take off walking in one direction. If your pup follows willingly, heap on lots of praise. If he does not follow you, sits stubbornly, or pulls in the other direction, kiss at him and gently pat your thigh to get him excited to be with you. At this point praise him heartily. Time your praise so that it happens when he's moving and not when he's resisting. This may take some time and observation. He will soon get your message.
Remember not to pull hard or jerk on the lead, no matter how tempting. A dog's natural tendency is to pull back and you will not get your message across. This could also give your new pup "lead phobia" that will be hard to cure.
Repeat this step every day for about a week and every day you should see your pup becoming more confident and yourself having a little more control.
Following these tips will go a long way towards making life with your dog more fun. A leash-trained dog not only puts you in control, but also gains respect from pedestrians you encounter on your walks.
Teaching Basic Commands: Learn the Right Way to Train
Teaching your puppy basic commands - Come, Stay, Sit, Heel, and Down - is essential to your relationship and the safety of your pup. As you prepare to work with your dog on obedience training, it is important to remember a few basic rules to make the process an easy and effective one. You may think you can do it on your own, but there's a right way and a wrong way to train. Starting out the right way is much easier than trying to retrain after bad habits are already formed.
Keep Training Sessions Short - Even though everything you do should be regarded as training in one way or another, structured command training should be done in short sessions - several repetitions is enough - at least three times a day. You want to keep your pup enthused about training and, like children, their attention span is short.
Be Consistent - Each family member should use the exact same words each time. It should be "Come," not "Come here girl," and "Stay," not "Stay right there, don't move."
Never Get Angry - It will only increase the time necessary for training and will always affect the trust your puppy has for you. Remember, like dealing with your children, deep breaths, count to ten . . . .
Praise Each Success - Let them know they please you when they perform a command by gently rubbing or petting them over the back or shoulder. Verbal praise makes your dog feel good about what they did
Praise or Correct Behavior Immediately - So they can associate their behavior with either the positive or negative reinforcement. Don't automatically discipline them if they don't follow a command. They may not understand what you want them to do, which could be the fault of the teacher, not the student.
Patience, Patience - This is going to take time. The most common mistake is moving too fast. Your puppy should know and respond to each command. "Good enough" is rarely good enough.
Let us assume you are looking at a puppy that is between four and seven weeks of age. At this point, his behavior is a product of genetics and how the breeder has managed his activities and environment. The latter cannot be stressed enough. It forms the process known as 'socialization,' the development of interactive skills with members of its own and other species and learning to be comfortable in different situations and environments. The personality and behavior of a mature dog will be strongly affected by how it interacts with littermates, mother, people, and various external stimuli that it encounters during the first 12 weeks of life. The breeder will control a portion of this period and you the rest.
Relating to mother
From the mother, it receives the first stimulation to breathe, nurse, urinate, and defecate. She also trims the umbilical cord, cleans it several times a day, keeps the puppy warm, and ensures a safe and secure environment. She also provides disciplines when its behavior exceeds limits that only she understands. She supplies everything needed.
Relating to littermates
From his littermates, the puppy acquires additional knowledge on how to interact with members of his own species. Through their play, puppies learn about dominance and submission, get an introduction into mating behavior, and receive a wide range of stimulation for the development of their senses and physical abilities. Puppies that have no littermates or come from litters that were split up at too early of an age, typically have difficulty interacting with dogs later in life. Not knowing how to react when confronted by a member of their own species, they tend to be either overly shy or aggressive. Often, they fail miserably in multi-dog households.
Relating to people
At the Breeder: Through handling and play with humans during their first seven weeks of age (which all good breeders encourage,) the puppy learns to trust and interact with people. Without this involvement in their lives they tend to have difficulty forming relationships with or being comfortable around people. Dogs isolated from humans at an early age tend to become one-person dogs. They usually do not blend well into homes that contain multiple children or several adults. Obviously, these traits can be occasionally overcome, but it is not always easy.
In most situations, breeders provide what the puppies need for correct socialization with little effort expended. They keep the puppies until they are seven weeks of age before allowing them to go to their new homes. The mother is left with the puppies throughout most of this period. After four or five weeks, she will be allowed to spend time away from the pups, but she will still be with them for several visits each day. Good breeders love children if for no other reason than to have them around to play with their developing puppies.
In our own experiences of raising litters, we have our children start holding and petting the puppies when they are only a few days old. At three to four weeks of age, we let them play together in outdoor situations for an hour or more on a daily basis. And lastly, most breeders try to expose their pups to many different stimulating environments or situations. They should not be confined to a whelping box or pen until they depart for their new home. They need to learn to respond to many different situations to develop confidence in themselves. Their curiosity needs to be stimulated. If you ever decide to breed your own litter, all these same things will become your responsibility.
Relating to You and Others: We talked about how the breeder must provide the puppy with an environment that prepares it for life among humans, occasional encounters with other animals, and to be comfortable in a wide range of situations and environments. It is referred to as socialization. When the puppy is now in her final home, this process must continue as she is still developing behavioral patterns. In fact, these first few weeks in your home are some of the most important in the socialization process.
We recommend keeping the puppy’s schedule full for the first few days in your home in an effort to limit any loss it might feel from being separated from its littermates and mother. However, between seven and ten weeks of age there is an additional problem. At this time, most puppies go through a period in which they lose some of their self-confidence. Trust comes harder for them and things that we would expect them to be comfortable with suddenly elicit anxiety or fear. Where before they would boldly charge into a new situation, they now seem apprehensive. This could be anything from loud noises, new people, play that is a little too rough, going to a new place, etc.
Behaviorists have found that this has little to do with the change in where they are living or the separation from their siblings or mother. Even in cases in which the litter remains together, this same behavioral pattern is noted at this age. Do not overreact. Your puppy will mature through this and be just fine if you do your part. You do not want to become overly protective and isolate it from the outside world. We think it is better that during this two to three week period, you increase the range of its experiences by small steps, not giant leaps and bounds. Choose activities that can be controlled. Introduce the puppy to new people including children, but do not let thirty kids come screaming at her from all directions. Let her meet the neighbor’s dog, just not the rowdy one down the street. At approximate 12 weeks of age, this period comes to an end and most owners will see their puppies become bolder toward new people, animals, and experiences.
Continued socialization through the first year of life
From this point through at least one year of age, it is imperative that you make every effort to expand the puppy’s environment and expose her to new things. During this stage of their lives, puppies should be around as many different people and animals as possible. Take them with you when you go for a walk, shopping, or even to work. Encourage your children to bring their friends over to meet their new pet. Take an obedience or training course where they will meet other dogs. All of this is important.
Dogs that are isolated during their first year of life develop many problems. A few will become aggressive, but the majority are more likely to become overly shy or timid. They lack confidence in the presence of new people or situations. They cower in the presence of strangers. They jerk at their leash to get away from children or other pets. Forced to be in a new place, they may sit shaking behind you, drooling, and panting rapidly. In the worst case scenario, they may become fear biters. This is a behavioral pattern in which dogs, when encountering new people or pets they are afraid of, do not know how to react and simply attempt to bite the stranger. Once this develops, it can be very difficult to overcome.
The bottom line is: involve the puppy as much as you can in your daily activities. She will be well-socialized and happy. Besides, that is the reason you got her, right?
There has always been a special bond between children and animals. Keep this special bond successfully alive during the holidays, the time of year that your pet and visiting children - or visiting pets and your children - will interact.
Dogs and kids
Socializing dogs to children is best done when the dog is between 5 weeks and 5 months of age. Unless you have a dog that just doesn't like kids (and there are some out there), it is never too late to train him to be child-friendly.
To begin the socialization process, encourage your children to gently play with the puppy or dog and to bring over peers so he or she learns to get along with youngsters. If you do not have children, invite neighborhood kids over to interact.
Never underestimate the power of puppy or beginning obedience classes. In these classes your canine companion will begin learning the basics of "sit," "stay," "down," and the very important "off" commands, as well as other canine manners.
Take advantage of your dog's natural pack instincts. This means that all members of the human race are above the dog in the "pack" hierarchy, and that includes children.
Here are some pack-instinct actions that speak dog language louder than words:
When your dog and any child enter or exit a room or house together, always make sure that the child enters or exits before the dog or pup.
Feed the child (and the family) before you feed the pup.
Make sure the child acts confidently when petting the dog: stroke along the shoulders in a straight line.
Invite children of all ages to play with the pup. He'll learn to be confident around children and that children are fun.
These tips can help your household - as well as any households you visit with your pet - to have a happy and safe holiday.
Teach your children well. . .
Children should respect that the pet is a living creature and not a toy.
Don't let them grab things away from the pet.
Be gentle, especially with little puppies and kittens.
No running up to strange dogs, or staring them down - these are challenges in dog language.
Leave the pet alone while he is eating.
ALWAYS supervise. You should never leave a pet alone with a child.
Has your pet ever slipped away from you at bath time? Did she shake off next to the sofa and rub the suds out on a good rug before you caught her? If so, the following tips will help ensure she not only stays put during the next bath, but also that you both have a more pleasant experience.
Prevent escapees Use a pet tub, like the Booster Bath with a leash hook or restraint to gently hold your pet in place, freeing your hands to massage in the shampoo. A non-slip bath mat helps keeps them in place, too.
Select the right shampoo Resist the urge to use your shampoo on your pet. Pet specific formulated shampoos are formulated to meet the unique needs of pets, whether they be itch control, moisturizing, scale removal, inflammation relief, or improved coat shine.
Massage down to the skin Work the shampoo down all the way to your pet's skin to boost the effectiveness of the active ingredients and to help massage away loose skin and hair. A grooming mitt has nubbed teeth to get down deep into the coat.
Rinse and dry completely At rinse time, use a sprayer, such as the WaterPic hand held, to force water down deep, so shampoo rinses out completely to prevent skin irritation later. Keep the restraint attached as you towel dry your pet.
The proper shampoo, correct tools, and effective restraint make bath time more enjoyable, and less hectic, for you and your pet. Now, you're ready to groom.
Have you put off trimming your pet's nails until the inevitable veterinary check-up comes around and the veterinarian must do it? It is important to remember that untrimmed nails can cause a variety of problems from scratched up floors for you to deformed feet and back problems for your pet. In some cases, they will actually grow back into the dog's feet.
A good indication that nails are too long is a telltale "click-click-click" when walking on uncarpeted areas.
Trim nails so that when the animal steps down, nails do not touch the floor.
Invest in a good pair of nail trimmers or a grinding tool in an appropriate size for your pet. They can last a lifetime.
Make trimming time fun and not a struggle. Sit on the floor with your pet, trimmers, and CutStop Styptic Pads to stop bleeding if you knick the quick. The "quick," a blood vessel that runs down the middle of your pet's nail, grows as the nail grows, so if you wait a long time between cuttings, the quick will be closer to the end of the nail. This means more likelihood of bleeding during trimming.
Try to trim your pet's nails weekly, even if long walks keep them naturally short. Weekly nail trimmings can also alert you to other foot problems your pet may have.
Trimming your pet's nails doesn't have to be a chore or unpleasant. If your pet is not used to having his nails trimmed, start slowly and gradually work up to simply holding his toes firmly for 15-30 seconds. Do not let him mouth or bite at you. It can take daily handling for a week or more to get some pets used to this.
Take one toe at a time in your hands and trim very thin slices off the end of the nail until you see a black dot appear. This is the start of the quick that you want to avoid. The good news is that, the more diligent you are about trimming, the more the quick will regress into the nail, allowing you to cut shorter each time.
If your pet will tolerate it, do all four feet this way. If he won't, take a break. And don't forget the dewclaws. On most breeds, if they haven't been removed, dewclaws are 1-4" above the feet on the inner side of the legs. If not trimmed, dewclaws can grow so long they curl up and grow into the soft tissue, like a painful ingrown toenail.
Trimming nails regularly should be a part of your weekly grooming routine with your pet. Remember that cats as well as dogs can benefit from a nail trimming.
There has always been a special bond between children and animals. Keep this special bond successfully alive during the holidays, the time of year that your pet and visiting children - or visiting pets and your children - will interact.
Dogs and kids
Socializing dogs to children is best done when the dog is between 5 weeks and 5 months of age. Unless you have a dog that just doesn't like kids (and there are some out there), it is never too late to train him to be child-friendly.
To begin the socialization process, encourage your children to gently play with the puppy or dog and to bring over peers so he or she learns to get along with youngsters. If you do not have children, invite neighborhood kids over to interact.
Never underestimate the power of puppy or beginning obedience classes. In these classes your canine companion will begin learning the basics of "sit," "stay," "down," and the very important "off" commands, as well as other canine manners.
Take advantage of your dog's natural pack instincts. This means that all members of the human race are above the dog in the "pack" hierarchy, and that includes children.
Here are some pack-instinct actions that speak dog language louder than words:
When your dog and any child enter or exit a room or house together, always make sure that the child enters or exits before the dog or pup.
Feed the child (and the family) before you feed the pup.
Make sure the child acts confidently when petting the dog: stroke along the shoulders in a straight line.
Invite children of all ages to play with the pup. He'll learn to be confident around children and that children are fun.
These tips can help your household - as well as any households you visit with your pet - to have a happy and safe holiday.
Teach your children well. . .
Children should respect that the pet is a living creature and not a toy.
Don't let them grab things away from the pet.
Be gentle, especially with little puppies and kittens.
No running up to strange dogs, or staring them down - these are challenges in dog language.
Leave the pet alone while he is eating.
ALWAYS supervise. You should never leave a pet alone with a child.
How to Curb Excessive Barking, Quickly and Humanely
Barking is a completely natural canine behavior, and is one of the primary ways in which dogs communicate. Your dog barks for a variety of reasons - normally good ones. But sometimes dogs bark inappropriately, whether in the field or in kennel situations. Inappropriate barking tends to reward itself, and can easily become a habit.
What can you do if you find your dog's barking is interfering with your training program, disturbing his kennel mates, or even upsetting your family?
You may wish to consider using a bark control collar to help you eliminate excessive barking and keep your dog on track. Most bark control collars are safe to use around other dogs, such as in kennel situations, because the stimulus is activated only by the dog wearing the collar.
Electronic bark control collars, such as the Dogtra brand, use vibration probes to sense when your dog barks. When vibration is detected, the collar probes deliver a harmless electrical correction to your dog's neck. The effectiveness of these collars is attributed to the fact that your dog learns to associate his own behavior (barking) with the unpleasant correction, and will stop the behavior to avoid the correction.
Bark collars usually offer different levels of electrical stimulation. Some collars, such as the Dogtra YS200 , even allow you to adjust the level of sensitivity.
While most bark collars are water-resistant, make sure to get one that is waterproof if you plan to use it in areas where your dog could wet or end up fully-submersed in the water. Also, be very cautious of the low quality "price pointed" collars at pet stores. Pay a little more to get a "professional" corrective collar- your dog will thank you.
Is your dog changing? Does he seem to be challenging you? Is he reluctant to be patted or picked up? Is your dog becoming destructive? These behaviors, on the surface, may seem to indicate a behavior problem that a little extra training may help. But before you begin re-training, consider that your dog may be experiencing health problems.
For instance:
Growling and snapping could be caused by pain due to injury, arthritis, or another illness
Turning over the garbage can or any change in eating or drinking habits may have to do with the onset of a hormonal disease such as diabetes
Reluctance to being picked up may happen because of aches and pains associated with many diseases, including some cancers and arthritis
If an older dog suddenly becomes destructive or incontinent, does not appear to be listening to you, or does not recognize you at times, this may have to do with the onset of dementia. This may also be caused by hearing or sight loss associated with aging
Incontinence may also indicate kidney disease, a bladder infection, or arthritis
Inappropriate barking may also indicate a vision or hearing problem. It may also indicate dementia in older dogs.
So, if your dog is not himself, consider a veterinary visit first to determine whether it may be a physical problem. With the wide variety of treatments available today ranging from using pheromones to nutraceutics and prescription medications, you may be able to help your canine companion be his old self again.
Most behaviors of dogs are either the product of instinct, or a learned behavior. Digging behavior is no exception; it is an instinct. In addition, there are certain breeds; Terriers and Dachshunds, for instance; which were bred specifically for their ability to dig out game such as badgers, foxes, and otters. They have an even greater digging instinct.
Dogs dig for a variety of reasons.
Dogs will often dig out of boredom. If you leave your dog out alone in the yard for any length of time, he may dig just for something to do. Play with him out there, or provide him with chew toys or interactive toys like a Kong rubber toy with treats stuffed inside.
Digging is often used as a means of escape. Your dog may want to leave a fenced yard because there are so many more interesting things to do elsewhere.
If you have an intact (unspayed, or unneutered) dog, he or she may be digging to escape in order to mate with another dog. If you do not plan to breed your dog, a good way to prevent digging for this reason is to neuter him or spay her.
Since deeper layers of soil tend to be cooler, your dog may be digging to find relief from the heat. Always provide a cool, shady place for your dog to rest when he is outside.
Dogs are great savers. They will bury bones or other treats 'for a rainy day' when they may need them.
If you use bone or blood meal to fertilize your garden, the scent may be irresistible. A dog may dig and dig trying to find that nonexistent bone.
Any dog may dig to excavate a den. A female dog may dig in order to provide a nest for babies, whether she is pregnant or not.
The trick to stopping any pet's unwanted behavior is understanding it, and then manipulating it into a behavior of which we approve. There are obvious things you can do to prevent digging, some of which are mentioned above. Here are other general solutions:
Give your dog a place where he is permitted to dig and train him, with praise and treats, to dig in that spot and not in an inappropriate place. A good place is a sandy area, an area that has already been dug up and where the soil is loose, or an area where there is a lot of shade. A sandy area has the added benefit in that, sand is much easier to clean off than dirt. You can make this sand area with a small plastic pool from most toy stores and fill it up with sand.
Decide where this place will be, soften the soil, and then bury a favorite treat there. Bring your dog over to the area, say "dig!" and praise him when he uncovers the treat. Repeat until the behavior is learned. If you catch him digging in an inappropriate area, say "no!" and then take him over to the desired area and say "dig," followed by praise if he digs. This training may take several days.
Deter him from digging in inappropriate areas. There are many different ways to do this, including putting pepper, mothballs (not safe with children), citrus or diluted ammonia on the inappropriate area. These products work by creating a scent in the area which is repugnant to animals, or which interferes with the animal's sense of smell. Some products can be used directly on plants and grass, some cannot. This is probably the easiest of the solutions. This will also work at repelling nuisance animals other than your own.
Digging, although deeply ingrained, can be unlearned. Be consistent and unwavering and you will be able to find a solution.
My dog becomes anxious when I have guests over, especially children. Is there anything I can do? Children are great big bundles of energy to a dog. Some dogs get anxious about strangers. Dogs that are not used to children or other visitors may either act shy, go into hiding, or even become aggressive. The best way to deal with this is to socialize your dog to children or strangers. Over a period of several weeks, try the following:
First, invite one person that the dog is fond of who does not live with him come to the door and have him distribute a treat and quietly pet the dog. Then bring in several people the dog is familiar with so he'll get used to a group. Add one person that the dog does not know, all the while praising the dog and giving him treats when he shows good behavior with guests. Add a child and then more children until the dog is familiar with a group. Remember to always supervise children with dogs.
My dog is fearful of strange noises. How can I help him? Noise phobia may be traced to a particular bad experience of a noise, but often, no triggering event can be ascertained. The owner's attitude can influence the severity of the fear. Similarly, if the owner attempts to comfort the animal, the animal interprets it as confirming there really is something to be afraid of. The petting or comforting is really positive reinforcement of an undesirable behavior.
Products such as valerian and chamomile Ultra-Calm® Treats and Rescue Remedy have been used with some success. These two therapies take effect within an hour of administration, and should be given prior to the fear-producing event.
Are there other things I can do to help my pet lower his anxiety level? Having a regular exercise schedule can help with many different types of anxiety and fears. The exercise will help to tire the animal, both mentally and physically, and may make her less responsive to the fearful things. In addition, exercise has the effect of increasing natural serotonin levels, which can act as a sedative.
What is separation anxiety? A dog with separation anxiety becomes abnormally anxious when separated from his owner. The severity of the anxiety and behavior the dog exhibits varies from animal to animal. Separation anxiety can result in problematic behaviors such as: whining, pacing, salivation, barking, howling, scratching, chewing, digging, urinating or defecating, or destroying personal items or household objects.
What can I do about separation anxiety? If you suspect your dog is suffering from severe separation anxiety - especially if he is harming himself or your property - please consult with your veterinarian to find the best method of treatment. For milder cases, you may want to try one or more of the following tips to help reduce your dog's anxiety:
More exercise - Go for more walks and throw the ball more often. Tired dogs are naturally less anxious.
Soften your departures & returns - Keep your departures and returns low-keyed and unexciting.
Gradually lengthen periods of your absence - Stage several short departures/arrivals throughout the day, gradually lengthening each absence as your dog adjusts.
Non-prescription stress reduction formulas - A number of non-prescription calming products such as Ultra-Calm® Treats and Content-UM tablets use natural herbal formulas to help calm your pet for short periods of 1-2 hours.
Pheromone Plug-In - Many dog owners have seen a remarkable improvement in their dog's anxiety with a relatively new product, the Comfort Zone Plug-In. Inserted in any wall outlet, and odorless to humans, it releases Dog Appeasing Pheromones (D.A.P) in the air throughout the entire room. Mimicking a new mother's natural pheromones, it reduces and prevents stress-related behaviors such as barking, whining, chewing, and soiling.
Does your dog get upset or engage in destructive behaviors when you leave him alone? Separation anxiety is a serious problem which can cause tremendous emotional distress for both dogs and owners. Misinterpreting its signs as simply "bad dog" behavior is one of the most common reasons for pet owners to give up their dogs.
A dog with separation anxiety becomes abnormally anxious when separated from his owner. The severity of the anxiety and behavior the dog exhibits varies from animal to animal. Separation anxiety can result in problematic behaviors such as: whining, pacing, salivation, barking, howling, scratching, chewing, digging, urinating or defecating, or destroying personal items or household objects.
If you suspect your dog is suffering from severe separation anxiety - especially if he is harming himself or your property - please consult with your veterinarian to find the best method of treatment. For milder cases, you may want to try one or more of the following tips to help reduce your dog's anxiety.
What Can I Do to Help My Anxious Dog?
More exercise - Go for more walks and throw the ball more often. Tired dogs are naturally less anxious.
Soften your departures & returns - Keep your departures and returns low-keyed and unexciting.
Gradually lengthen periods of your absence - Stage several short departures/arrivals throughout the day, gradually lengthening each absence as your dog adjusts.
Non-prescription stress reduction formulas - A number of non-prescription calming products like Ultra Calm and Rescue Remedy use natural herbal formulas to help calm your pet for short periods of 1-2 hours.
Pheromone Plug-In - Many dog owners have seen a remarkable improvement in their dog's anxiety with a relatively new product, the Comfort Zone Plug-In. Inserted in any wall outlet, and odorless to humans, it releases Dog Appeasing Pheromones (D.A.P) in the air throughout the entire room. Mimicking a new mother's natural pheromones, it reduces and prevents stress-related behaviors such as barking, whining, chewing, and soiling.
Stool Eating: How Can I Break My Dog From This Nasty Habit?
Any owner who catches their dog eating stool is sure to be disgusted at least, wondering what could bring their family pet to resort to such a nasty habit. Yes, it's gross to humans. No, it doesn't mean your dog is abnormal.
Although there are many theories why dogs sometimes eat their own stool or that of other animals, what's important is how you can help break your dog from this unappealing and potentially unhealthy habit. Start early - as a pup - since feces is a source of germs and parasites, and dogs not curbed of this habit as a puppy will have a harder time stopping later in life.
If Your Dog Eats His Own Stool . . .
If your pet is not being fed a quality dog food, increase the quality and quantity of the dog food you feed your dog. Store-bought foods are not digested as fully, and food that passes through the digestive system only to remain in the feces may actually make the stool taste appealing. For pets already on a high quality food, divide the daily intake into several smaller meals.
You can make stool taste repulsive to dogs using a vegetable-based chewable tablet like Dis-Taste, or by sprinkling some For-Bid or SEP over his food bowl.
Keep your yard clean and feces free.
Keep your dog active, since some dogs have been known to eat droppings as a negative behavior associated with boredom. Give them stimulating toys and interact with them on a daily basis.
If your Dog Eats Other Dogs' Stool . . .
Always walk your dog on a collar and lead or leash. If you see your dog going for it, give them a firm "no" command and keep them walking.
If your Dog Eats From the Cat's Litter Box . . .
Give your cat a daily chewable tablet like Dis-Taste, or sprinkle some For-Bid or SEP over her food bowl to make her stool less appealing to the family dog.
Consider getting your cat a litter box with a built-in cover like a Hooded Litter Pan.
As vile as you may view this behavior, our veterinarians emphasize you should never punish your dog for stool eating. To curb the habit, try the recommendations listed above, and if your dog continues, consult with your veterinarian.
Some dogs, especially those in kennel situations, may eat feces because they are anxious or stressed. One researcher suggests that dogs who have been punished by their owners for defecating inappropriately start to think any defecation is wrong, so they try to eliminate the evidence.
Another theory is that coprophagy (stool eating) is a trait passed down through the ages. Dogs' cousins, wolves and coyotes, may often eat feces if food is in short supply. Feces from herbivores (plant eaters) contain many vital B vitamins. Some researchers suggest that wolves (and some dogs) may eat feces to replenish their vitamin supply.
Dogs who eat their feces usually do not have a dietary deficiency. Some medical problems, however, can contribute to coprophagy including severe disorders of the pancreas (pancreatic insufficiency) or intestine, severe malnutrition from massive parasitic infestations, or starvation. These cases are rare.
In some instances, coprophagy may be a behavior learned from watching other animals. It may also become a habit in the course of play and puppies having to try out the taste of everything.
Dogs often jump up on people. This is normal behavior for a young dog. Puppies of wild canids do it all the time. They jump up on each other or their parents. Puppies of our domestic dogs do the same. Jumping up serves both as play and to teach them how to act as a predator or how to challenge other pack members in the dominance hierarchy. In some homes, puppies are encouraged to jump up on their owners. Obviously, this is a mistake. While it may be seen as cute or as a sign of affection while the puppy is small, it can be terrifying when done by a 100-pound Rottweiler.
Numerous owners complain about their dogs doing this. They shout "No" or "No, get down" or any of a wide range of phrases that make perfect sense to them but that are not understood by the dog. They scream and punish the animals but little seems to help. Some of the peoples' actions may excite the dog even more, and when this occurs, nothing is learned.
In all honesty, this behavior can be eliminated completely in a week or less, and as usual, we do not think you need to say anything. You need to communicate to the pet that this is not acceptable behavior and should not be done, but do not waste words or try to make up new phrases to correct it.
Body block
As the animal starts to jump up on you, turn sideways and either extend your leg or lean over and with your hip give a body block so that the dog never even gets her paws on you. You see, once she has her front paws on you, she already got what she wanted (she won and you lost).
When the dog has all four feet on the floor, immediately squat down and give her attention. She will soon learn that by sitting quietly with all four feet on the floor she will get what she wants.
Too late
What if the dog surprised you and got her feet on you before you had a chance to block her. Do NOT push her away with your hands. Many dogs think that is play. Some people lightly step on the toes of one of the animal's rear feet, but not enough to hurt the dog. All you want to do is make something that is fun suddenly uncomfortable to them. Say nothing. Do not waste "No" on this kind of behavior. Remember, you are not trying to step down on her toes and make the animal yip in pain.
Done consistently, either of these actions will eliminate jumping behavior.
The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC), a federal agency which monitors and controls human diseases, estimates over 4.7 million people are bitten per year. This is approximately 2 percent of the U.S. population. Ten to twenty people die each year from injuries resulting from dog bites. Most of these victims are children.
In addition to physical injuries, people, especially children, can be emotionally scarred as well. It is sad, indeed, when a person who has suffered a dog bite can no longer feel comfortable around animals, and may in fact, be terrified of them. Such people lose a wonderful aspect of their lives and a chance to have a meaningful human-animal bond.
Reduce the risk of your dog biting
There is no way to guarantee that your dog will never bite someone. But you can significantly reduce the risk if you:
Spay or neuter your dog. This will reduce your dog's desire to roam and fight with other dogs. Spayed or neutered dogs are three times less likely to bite than intact dogs.
Socialize your dog. Introduce your dog to many different types of people and situations so that he or she is not nervous or frightened under normal social circumstances.
Train your dog. Participating in puppy socialization and dog training classes is an excellent way to help you and your dog learn good obedience skills. Training your dog is a family matter, and every member of your household should be involved and use the same training techniques.
Teach your dog appropriate behavior. Avoid playing aggressive games with your dog such as wrestling, tug-of-war, or 'siccing' your dog on another person. Do not allow your puppy to bite or chew on your hands. Set appropriate limits for your dog's behavior. Do not wait for an unacceptable behavior to become a bad habit, or believe your dog will 'grow out of it.' If your dog exhibits dangerous behavior toward any person, particularly toward children, seek professional help from your veterinarian, an animal behaviorist, or a qualified dog trainer. Your community animal care and control agency or humane society may also offer helpful services. Dangerous behavior toward other animals may eventually lead to dangerous behavior toward people, and is also a reason to seek professional help.
Be a responsible dog owner. Obtain a license for your dog as required by law, and provide regular veterinary care, including rabies vaccinations. For everyone's safety, do not allow your dog to roam. Make your dog a member of your family. Dogs who spend a great deal of time alone in the backyard or tied out on a chain are more likely to become dangerous. Dogs who are well-socialized and supervised rarely bite.
Err on the safe side. If you do not know how your dog will react to a new situation, be cautious. If your dog may panic in crowds, leave him at home. If your dog overreacts to visitors or delivery or service personnel, keep him in another room. Work with professionals to help your dog become accustomed to these and other situations. Until you are confident of his behavior, however, avoid stressful settings.
If your dog would bite a person:
Confine your dog immediately.
Check on the victim's condition. If necessary, seek medical help.
Provide the victim with important information. This should include your name and address, name of the dog, the date of your dog's last rabies vaccination, and the name and phone number of your veterinarian.
Cooperate with the animal control official responsible for acquiring information about your dog. If your dog must be quarantined for any length of time, ask whether he may be confined within your home or at your veterinarian's hospital (this is usually determined by the dog's rabies vaccination status). Strictly follow quarantine requirements for your dog.
Seek professional help to prevent your dog from biting again. Consult with your veterinarian, who may refer you to an animal behaviorist or a dog trainer.
Do not just give your dog to someone else if your dog's dangerous behavior cannot be controlled. Because you know your dog is dangerous, you may be held liable for any damage he does even when he is given to someone else. Do not give your dog to someone who wants a dangerous dog. If you must give up your dog due to dangerous behavior, consult with your veterinarian and with your local animal care and control agency or humane society about your options. New owners may be possible if they have a good knowledge of dog behavior and training, and are fully aware of the dog's behavior problems.
To avoid being bitten:
Be cautious around strange dogs. To avoid being bitten, never approach an unfamiliar dog, especially one who is tied or confined behind a fence or in a car. Do not pet an unfamiliar dog without the owner's permission, and make sure to let the dog see and sniff you first. Always assume that a dog who does not know you may see you as an intruder or as a threat.
Never turn your back to a dog and run away. A dog's natural instinct will be to chase and catch you. Instead, remain motionless, with your hands at your sides. Avoid direct eye contact. When the dog loses interest, slowly back away.
Do not disturb a dog while she's sleeping, eating, chewing on a toy, or caring for puppies. Be sure the dog is aware of your presence before you touch the dog - even your own. A startled dog may bite as a reflex action.
Teach children not to tease or chase dogs.
Never leave an infant or child alone with a dog.
If you are attacked:
Put something between you and the dog. Use your coat, purse, book bag, bicycle, or other object to separate yourself from the dog.
Protect your head. If you are knocked down, cover your head and ears with your hands and curl into a ball. Try not to move or scream.
Care for any wounds. Wash any wound with soap and water and seek medical attention.
Report the attack to the police or animal control agency. Try to remember as much as possible about the attack.
The happiness and safety of you, your pet, and the people around you is important to us. By responsibly taking care of your dog and educating other dog owners, you can help prevent dog bites. You can help by supporting dog bite prevention educational programs in schools, and teaching children and adults the proper way to approach unfamiliar pets and avoid being bitten.
A: Wild relatives of the dog often bury their food. They may have killed an animal that is too big to eat all at once, or may have killed several animals when they were very plentiful. Wolves and fox will bury this food to preserve it and hopefully to protect it from being found by another animal who would want to eat it. This is called 'caching' or 'hoarding' their food. Squirrels do the same thing.
Domestic dogs still carry this hoarding trait and will bury a bone or toy in the yard, or even under a blanket as a way of saving and protecting it. Our dogs seldom experience the extreme hunger that would encourage them to find it again, so often, these buried treasures are forgotten.
'Not every dog loves a face-in-the-wind car ride.'
For some dogs, car rides produce a great deal of anxiety. A combination of fear and not understanding what is happening will cause drooling, shaking, or even vomiting in some dogs and cats. In humans, we refer to this as car sickness or motion sickness; however, true motion sickness is a result of an inner ear problem. Some dogs truly do have motion sickness, and for these animals products such as Dramamine can be used under the supervision of a veterinarian. For most dogs, however, the sickness is strictly an over-reaction to the fear and apprehension of the car noise, motion, etc. If your dog would rather be anywhere besides in the car, here is how you can help her overcome the fear of car rides.
Get your dog used to the car environment. Get in the car together and have a treat. Talk. Be happy. Make it a fun time. Do not have the car running, just share a treat and make it a positive experience. Repeat this a number of times on different occasions. You may want to feed your dog in the car. If your dog is afraid of even getting into the car, try feeding or giving a treat close to the car.
Get your dog used to the car while it is running. Repeat step one, only this time start the car. Give a treat before and after. If she looks or acts nervous, reassure her that everything is OK. Take your time and make sure she is relaxed before ending the session.
Get your dog used to the motion of the moving car. Once she is used to the car running without any fearful reaction, back the car to the end of the driveway, then forward again to the garage. Give her a treat and praise her. Repetition is the key. The more you do this the more confident your dog becomes that cars are no problem. In fact, to her it becomes a great place for attention, praise, and even treats.
Now it is time to take a short trip around the block. Treats and praise before and after, and calm, reassuring talk throughout the ride are a pre-requisite. Gradually increase the distance traveled until your dog is calm no matter how long she's in the car.
Some animals still need something to calm them. There are non-prescription products such as Serene-um, Pet Calm, and Rescue Remedy. In severe cases, even stronger prescription anti-anxiety medications can be dispensed by your veterinarian.
Get puppies used to the car while they are still young and are more receptive to new adventures. Dogs make excellent traveling companions so it is well worth the training now for the years of enjoyment it will bring both of you once you get over this obstacle together.
Dogs commonly eat grass, and there are several explanations that have been offered for this behavior. One, wild canids (e.g., wolves and fox) eat all of an animal when they catch it. Since they eat many herbivores (plant-eating animals), they end up eating a lot of grasses and plants that were in the intestines of these animals. In addition, they have been known to eat certain berries and other plant material. Dogs then, may eat grass because, in reality, it is a normal part of their diet.
Many times, dogs will vomit after eating grass. Did they eat grass to make them vomit? Or did they vomit because they ate grass? It is a mystery, but it seems that some dogs may eat vegetation when they have an upset stomach.
The third reason - they just like it. Some dogs have certain species of grass or plant material that they will search out and eat. We know a beagle who can pick raspberries faster than his owner.
In any case, grass eating is basically a normal behavior, and is not of concern unless your dog does it excessively.
It is unknown why some pets become afraid of noises; it is a common problem in dogs, but less so in cats. The fear can soon become a phobia, which is defined as A persistent, excessive, and irrational fear response. In the case of thunderstorms, pets may also be fearful of storm-associated events such as a change in barometric pressure, lightning, electrostatic disturbances, and even smells associated with the storms. Noise phobias can include fear of thunderstorms, firecrackers, gunshots, and even the sound of birds.
A recent study has found that certain breeds have an above average risk of developing noise phobias. These include some of the working and sporting breeds such as Collies, German Shepherds, Beagles, and Basset Hounds. This survey was quite small, however, and more research needs to be done in this area. The study also found that dogs who had separation anxiety were more likely to also have noise and thunderstorm phobias.
A noise phobia may be traced to a particular bad experience of a noise, but often, no triggering event can be ascertained. In almost all instances, the fear of noises and storms escalates, worsening with each exposure. Soon the pet may become fearful of similar sounds or events associated with the noise. For example, a pet afraid of thunder may also become afraid of rain, or a dog afraid of gunshots may show fear at the mere sight of a hunting rifle.
The owner's attitude can influence the severity of the fear. For instance, if owners themselves are nervous during storms, noise phobias in their pets may occur more often or become more severe. Similarly, if the owner attempts to comfort the animal, the animal interprets it as confirming there really is something to be afraid of. The petting or comforting is really positive reinforcement of an undesirable behavior.
What are the signs of noise phobia?
Different animals may display different signs of noise phobias which include:
Hiding (most common sign in cats)
Urinating
Defecating
Chewing
Panting
Pacing
Trying to escape (digging, jumping through windows or going through walls, running away)
Drooling
Seeking the owner
Expressing anal glands
Not eating
Not listening to commands
Trembling or shaking
Dilated pupils
Vocalizing (barking or meowing)
Consult with a veterinarian experienced in animal behavior problems, and/or an animal behaviorist if your pet is showing signs of noise phobia. They can help develop a treatment plan for your pet.
How is noise phobia treated?
There is no "cure" for noise phobia, but there are ways to try to reduce the fear. First, refrain from giving rewards or punishment. This is extremely important. Petting, consoling, or even saying, "It's OK," may be interpreted by the pet as a reward for the fearful response. In the event of comforting a dog during a storm, for example, it may signal to the pet that the storm really is something he should be afraid of. Similarly, the pet should not be punished for showing fear. This will only increase his anxiety level. Usually treatment includes three other facets: medications, changing the environment, and behavior modification.
Administer medications: Medications may be given individually or in combination. In some instances, the medication may be administered during an entire thunderstorm season. Others may be given when a storm or noisy event (Fourth of July fireworks) is expected. A common protocol is to give amitriptyline during the storm season, and valium when a storm is predicted. The valium or other quick-acting medication needs to be given prior to the development of any behavioral or physical signs of anxiety. If there is a chance of a storm predicted for the afternoon, the pet should start receiving the valium or similar medication in the morning. Pets who also exhibit separation anxiety may need a different combination of medications. Several combinations may need to be tried before the optimum regimen for a particular animal is determined. Many of the medications that would be used on a daily basis, e.g.; Amitriptyline, Prozac, and Buspirone, may take 3-4 weeks to see an effect. Examples of medications used include:
Alprazolam (Xanax)
Amitriptyline (Elavil)
Buspirone (Buspar)
Clomipramine (Clomicalm)
Clorazepate (Tranxene)
Diazepam (Valium)
Fluoxetine (Prozac)
Inderal
Paroxetine (Paxil)
Tranxene-SD
Alternative therapies have also been used with some success. These include melatonin and flower essences such as Rescue Remedy. These two therapies take effect within an hour of administration, and should be given prior to the storm or other fear-producing event.
Change environment: By changing the environment of the animal during the storm or noise, the anxiety level can be reduced. Changing the environment may reduce the volume level of the sound or help make the pet less aware of it.
Increase vigorous exercise: The pet should receive vigorous exercise daily, and more so on a day when the fear-producing noise is likely to occur. The exercise will help to tire the animal, both mentally and physically, and may make her less responsive to the noise. In addition, exercise has the effect of increasing natural serotonin levels, which can act as a sedative.
Reduce or block the noise level: "White noise," such as running a fan or air conditioner may aid in blocking out some of the fear-producing noise. Playing a TV or radio can have a similar effect. Allowing the pet access to the basement or a room without outside walls or windows may decrease the noise level. Closing the windows and curtains can also help reduce the noise. Some owners have placed foam earplugs or cotton balls in their pets' ears.
Create a safe haven: Some pets feel more comfortable in a small space such as a crate or a small room like a bathroom (run the fan and leave the lights on). Some pets seek out the safety of the bathtub or shower during a storm. (Some have hypothesized that a pet may feel less static electricity if on tile or porcelain.) If the pet is comfortable in a crate, the crate can be covered with a blanket to add to the feeling of security. The door to the crate should be left open and the pet should not be confined to the crate, which could dramatically increase the stress level. Some pets, especially cats, may find that a closet or area under the bed makes a good retreat.
Project a calm attitude: Pets are very aware of the mental state of their owners. If you are worried or nervous, this will add to the pet's fear. Your pet will look to you for direction, so keep an "upbeat" and "in charge" attitude.
Maintain good health and nutrition: Health problems may increase the stress level of pets, and increase their anxiety. For instance, a dog in pain because of hip dysplasia may be more irritable and prone to other behavior changes. Diets too high in protein have been linked to some behavioral problems. Consult your veterinarian if you would like advice about changing your pet's diet.
Behavior modification: Special techniques can be used to help change the animal's response to the noise.
Counterconditioning: Using counterconditioning, the animal is taught to display an acceptable behavior rather than an unacceptable one as a response to a certain stimulus. In this way, a negative stimulus can become associated with a positive event. For instance, the only time the pet gets his most favorite treat, game, or toy, is just prior to and during a thunderstorm. Dogs who enjoy traveling may be taken for a car ride, or cats who love catnip, may be given their favorite catnip mouse. (Dogs who enjoy swimming will need to wait inside until the storm is over!) After a time, the pet will start associating an oncoming storm with getting to have his favorite thing.
Desensitization: Using desensitization, the animal's response is decreased while he is exposed to increasing levels of the fear-producing stimulus. For noise phobias, the animal is taught to be calm when the noise level is low, and then the noise level is gradually increased. This process is generally more successful in dogs than cats. To desensitize a pet to thunderstorms:
Obtain a commercial tape of a storm, or tape record one yourself (commercial tapes generally work better). Play the tape at normal volume to determine if it will induce the fear response. If it does, continue with the desensitization; if not, you will need to obtain a different tape. For some animals, a tape alone may not work, since there may be a combination of occurrences that provokes fear, e.g.; thunder plus lightning or changes in barometric pressure. For these animals, darkening the room and adding strobe lights may more closely mimic the storm, and may need to be included in the desensitization process.
Play the tape at a volume low enough that the pet is aware of the sound, but it does not induce a fear response. For instance, the ears may be cocked towards the tape player, but you still have the pet's attention. In some instances, that may mean the pet needs to be in a different room from where the tape is playing. While the tape is playing at the low level, engage the pet in an activity in which you give the commands, such as obedience training or performing tricks. Give food or other rewards during the activity when the pet accomplishes what he is supposed to. If the animal shows signs of fear, stop and try again the next day, playing the tape at an even lower level. It is important that the pet not be rewarded while he is fearful or anxious. Sessions should last about 20 minutes.
If the animal does not respond fearfully, during the next session, increase the volume slightly. Again, involve the pet in an activity and reward it for obeying commands. Continue increasing the volume gradually for each session. If the pet starts to show fear, decrease the volume. Repeat the sessions in various rooms of the house and with various family members present.
When the pet does not show fear when the tape is played at a loud volume, you may want to try playing the tape for a short time while you are absent. Gradually increase the time you are gone while the tape is playing.
When the pet appears to have lost his fear, the sessions can be reduced to one per week. In most instances, these sessions will need to be repeated weekly for the life of the pet.
During an actual storm, use the same activities and rewards you used in the training sessions.
To increase the chances of successful desensitization, the training process should take place during a time of the year when the actual noise will not be encountered: if the pet is afraid of thunder or fireworks, try desensitization during the winter; if afraid of gunshots, the training should take place outside of the hunting season. In most instances, it is best to discontinue any behavior-modifying medications during the desensitization process. Consult with your veterinarian before discontinuing any medications.
Conclusion
Fear of thunderstorms and other forms of noise phobia are common problems in dogs, and some cats. Administering medications along with changing the pets environment, and using behavior modification techniques can help ease the fear. Above all, do not give your pet any attention or reward when he is showing signs of fear; this will only reinforce the fearful behavior.
One of the most common behavior problems that people have with their puppies is pulling on the leash. It is much easier to prevent the problem than to have to correct it once it has become a habit. There are several training methods you can use to teach your puppy the right way to walk on a leash.
Slack leash method
A regular buckle collar and a six foot leash are required for this training. The first step to teaching loose leash walking is to keep in mind that leaving the house on a leash is a reward. Secondly, remember that if you continue to walk while your puppy is pulling, you are, in fact, teaching your dog to pull.
First, put the collar and leash on the puppy and stand in one place. Give your puppy enough leash so he can walk about four feet from you. Reward your puppy every time the leash goes slack. This method is best when teamed with a reward marker, like "yes" or a clicker.
When you are ready to begin walking say "let's go" and take a few steps. Chances are good that your puppy will begin to pull immediately, so plant your feet and stop walking. Wait for the leash to go slack, give a food reward and try walking again.
Try not to yank or "check" the leash, which is a natural response. If it is difficult for you to stop "checking," put your leash hand in your pocket. You should also try to be very vocal with your puppy. Puppies have a very short attention span, and talking in a high pitched voice will help your puppy keep his attention on you.
A: Dogs lick for a number of reasons. They lick to groom themselves and others. Mothers lick their puppies to clean them and stimulate their urination and defecation. Older puppies and the young of wild canids (relatives of the dog such as wolves) lick the mouths of the adults as a greeting to stimulate them to regurgitate. The puppies eat this regurgitated food as they are weaned from their mother and begin to eat solid food. As the puppies grow older, the licking becomes a way of welcoming others back into the pack and increasing the bonds between the pack members.
This last reason for licking (greeting and begging) is probably the one that has developed into the licking tendency of pet dogs. Licking is a way our pet dogs can greet us, say 'glad you're back!' and strengthen their relationship with us.
Q: When a dog mounts another, is it play or a sign of dominance?
A: Mounting (when one dog places his paws and chest on the hindquarters of another dog) is a normal and very common canine behavior. In most cases, it is NOT a sexual behavior. In young puppies, it is a play behavior. In older dogs, it is a method of communication, and the dog who is mounting the other dog is generally displaying dominance
Puppies have their behavior problems, and older dogs have theirs. For older dogs, in many cases it is not that they do not understand the 'rules,' but that they may, for many reasons, be unable to follow them.
Separation anxiety
Separation anxiety is one of the most common behavior problems seen in older dogs. A dog who has separation anxiety will become very anxious when he senses his owner is about to leave. When the owner does leave, the dog often becomes destructive, barks or howls, may urinate or defecate, and may salivate profusely. A dog with separation anxiety will often be overly exhuberant when his owner returns.
Older dogs may have a decreased ability to cope with changes in routine. Vision or hearing loss may make them more anxious, overall, but especially when they are separated from the owner. Neurologic changes may also limit an older dog's ability to adjust to change.
Some of the main considerations in treating separation anxiety are:
Do not make a big deal about leaving or coming home - that simply reinforces the behavior.
Teach your dog to relax. If your dog can learn to relax in a 'stay' for extended periods while you are there, he will be more likely to learn how to relax while you are gone.
Change your departure cues. Many dogs know as soon as the alarm goes off, that it is a work day and you are going to leave. They start getting anxious as soon as they hear the alarm. We need to change our routine so the dog does not know we will be leaving. For instance, pick up the car keys and then go sit on the couch; on a Saturday, get up and dress like you are going to work, but stay home.
Start with very short departures. Determine how long you can leave your dog before he gets anxious. It may be only 10 seconds, so start there. Leave for 5 seconds, return, and if the dog has remained calm, reward him. Gradually increase the time you are gone, always returning before the dog becomes anxious, and rewarding him for staying calm. This may take weeks to months, so patience is the key.
Associate your departure with something good. As you leave, give your dog a hollow toy such as a 'Kong' filled with a wonderful treat. This may take his mind off of you leaving. Anxiety tends to feed on itself, so if we can prevent the anxiety from occurring when you leave, the dog may remain calm after you leave. Make sure your dog's environment is comfortable: the right temperature, a soft bed, sunlight, 'easy-listening' music. Some dogs will be more relaxed if they can see the outside world, others may become more anxious. Similarly, some older dogs are more anxious when left outdoors, and do much better when they can stay in the house. Determine what is best for your dog.
Break up the dog's day. If you are gone for extended periods during the day, you may want to think about having someone come in during the day to let your dog out and give him some exercise. Older dogs, especially, may need to go outside more often to urinate and defecate. Giving them this opportunity may decrease their anxiety.
Crate your dog. Many dogs feel safe in a crate, and being in a crate will help reduce their destructiveness. This will make it safer for them and your house.
Use a team approach. Anti-anxiety medications such as Clomicalm are often needed to break the cycle of separation anxiety. Medication alone, however, will not solve the problem. Work with your veterinarian and an animal behaviorist to develop a plan that will work best for you and your dog.
Aggression
Older dogs may become aggressive for several reasons. Aggression may be the result of a medical problem such as one causing pain (arthritis or dental disease), vision or hearing loss, which results in the dog being easily startled, lack of mobility so the dog can not remove himself from the irritating stimulus (e.g.; an obnoxious puppy), or diseases having direct effects on the nervous system, such as cognitive dysfunction (see below). Stresses such as moving, a new family member, or a new pet may make an older dog more irritable and more likely to be aggressive. In a multi-dog household, an older dog who was the 'dominant' dog in the past, may find his authority being challenged by younger dogs in the household.
By determining what factors may be contributing to the aggression, we may be able to eliminate or reduce those factors. Treating medical conditions which contribute to the aggression is paramount. Watch the dog for signs of stress (increased panting), and remove the dog from the stressful situation which could cause aggression. Using a 'halti' headcollar and leash may provide more control over an older dog, especially one who has decreased hearing or vision. In some cases, a basket muzzle may be needed to assure the safety of human and non-human family members. DO NOT LEAVE A MUZZLED DOG UNATTENDED. Medications can be helpful in reducing aggression that may be due to fear and anxiety. As with separation anxiety discussed above, medication alone will not solve the problem. Work with your veterinarian and an animal behaviorist to develop a plan that will work best for you and your dog.
House Soiling
Some older dogs who have been housetrained for years, may start having 'accidents.' As with other behavior problems in older dogs, there may be multiple causes for this change in behavior. Medical conditions which result in an increased frequency of urination or defecation may be the underlying cause for this behavior problem. These conditions include: colitis, inflammatory bowel disease, diabetes mellitus, bladder stones or infections, inflammation of the prostate, Cushing's disease, and kidney or liver disease. Medical conditions which cause pain or make it difficult for the dog to go outside to eliminate can also contribute to the problem. These conditions include arthritis, anal sac disease, loss of vision, and some forms of colitis. Treatment of these medical conditions may help to resolve this behavioral problem. Some medical conditions can result in a loss of control over bladder and bowel function and include hormone responsive incontinence, prostatic disease, and cognitive dysfunction. As discussed earlier, separation anxiety may result in defecating and urinating when the dog is separated from his owner(s).
Any older dog with a house soiling problem should be examined by a veterinarian and the owner should be able to give a detailed history of the color and amount of urine (or stool) passed, the frequency at which the dog needs to eliminate, changes in eating or drinking habits, the dog's posture while eliminating, and whether the 'accidents' only occur when the owner is gone.
Medical conditions contributing to the house soiling problem should be treated appropriately. If arthritis or painful movement is involved, an owner may want to build a ramp to the outside so the dog does not need to maneuver on stairs. Slick floor surfaces should be covered with non-slip area rugs or other material. Areas in the house where the dog has urinated or defecated should be cleaned with an enzyme cleaner. For dogs who need to urinate or defecate frequently, owners may need to change their schedules or find a pet sitter who can take the dog outside at appropriate intervals. A dog's food may contribute to difficulty defecating, and attempts should be made to determine if this could be a reason for the house soiling. Other medical conditions such as diabetes mellitus, bladder stones, or hormonal incontinence should be treated accordingly.
Noise phobias
Some older dogs become overly sensitive to noise. One may think the reverse would happen since many older dogs will acquire some hearing loss. Cognitive dysfunction, immobility resulting in an inability of the dog to remove himself from the source of the noise, and the decreased ability of an older dog to manage stress may be factors contributing to noise phobia.
It is important to identify which noises the dog may be afraid of. It may be noises we can hear, such as thunderstorms, but remember that a dog can hear frequencies humans cannot; the dog may be fearful of a sound we can not hear. For this reason, also try to relate the dog's behavior with other occurrences in the environment (e.g.; a train whistle, which may produce some high frequency sounds).
Treatment of noise phobias can include medication, desensitization and counterconditioning. For instance, if the sound is identified, play a recording of the sound at a very low volume level and reward the dog if no fear is displayed. Gradually (over days to weeks) the volume can be increased and rewards given appropriately.
Increased vocalization
Stress in an older dog may translate itself into increased barking, whining, or howling. This can occur during separation anxiety, as a means to gain attention (if the dog can not come to you because of decreased mobility, he may be asking you to come to him), or because of cognitive dysfunction.
The cause of the increased vocalization should be identified, if possible, and medication should be given if appropriate. If the dog is vocalizing in order to receive attention, he should be ignored. It may also be helpful to use 'remote correction,' such as throwing a pop can containing a few coins or pebbles toward the dog (not at the dog), which may startle him and stop him from vocalizing. He should not associate you with the correction or he may increase his vocalization just to get your attention. If the increased vocalization is an attention-seeking behavior, review the amount and type of attention you are giving the dog. Maybe you need to set aside some time for you and your dog (on your terms).
Nocturnal restlessness - changes in sleep patterns
Some older dogs may become restless at night, and stay awake, pacing through the house, or vocalizing. Pain, the need to urinate or defecate more often, the loss of vision or hearing, changes in appetite, and neurologic conditions can contribute to this behavior.
Any medical condition contributing to this behavior problem should be treated. Again, remote corrections may be helpful, or it may be necessary to confine the dog in a location away from the bedrooms during the night.
Cognitive dysfunction
According to Pfizer Pharmaceutical, 62% of dogs age 10 years and older will experience at least some of the following symptoms, which could indicate that he has canine cognitive dysfunction (CCD):
Confusion or disorientation. The dog may get lost in his own back yard, or get trapped in corners or behind furniture.
Pacing and being awake all night, or a change in sleeping patterns.
Loss of housetraining abilities. A previously housetrained dog may not remember and may urinate or defecate where he normally would not.
Deceased activity level.
Decreased attentiveness or staring into space.
Not recognizing friends or family members.
When other factors are ruled out (if decreased activity is due to an advancing arthritic condition, for instance, or his inattentiveness due to vision or hearing loss), and your veterinarian has determined that your dog has CCD, a treatment for this disorder may be recommmended. The new drug called Selegiline or L-Deprenyl, (brand name Anipryl), although not a cure, has been shown to alleviate some of the symptoms of CCD. If the dog responds, he will need to be treated daily for the rest of his life. As with all medications, there are side effects, and dogs with certain conditions should not be given Anipryl. For instance, if your dog is on Mitaban for external parasites, Anipryl should not be given. If you think your dog may have CCD, talk to your veterinarian.
Adapting to new pets in the household
Since older dogs do not handle stress well, getting a new puppy when you have an older dog showing signs of aging may not be the best idea. It is best to get a new puppy when the older dog is still mobile (can get away from the puppy), relatively pain free, is not experiencing cognitive dysfunction, and has good hearing and vision.
Summary
Many of the behavioral changes we see in older dogs can be due to medical conditions. If your dog's behavior is changing, have your dog examined by a veterinarian. Your older dog is more easily stressed, so attempt to reduce stress by making any necessary changes in routine gradual, and decreasing the exposure of your dog to stressors. With patience, understanding, and treatments recommended by your veterinarian, you can help make your dog's older years a quality time for you and him.
Q: Why do dogs always want to roll around in smelly things?
A: It is thought that dogs may choose to roll in foul-smelling things to mask their scent, just as wolves do. Wolves may roll in decomposing carcasses or the feces of herbivores (plant eating animals) to disguise themselves. They want to cover their own odors so their prey will not be alarmed by their scent. This way, they can sneak up on their prey and have a better chance of making a kill. Some behaviorists feel dogs may roll in smelly things to 'advertise' what they have found to other dogs.
No matter the reason, unfortunately, some of our domesticated friends have held onto this trait. How many of us have given a dog a bath only to find him running outside to again roll in something foul?
Separation anxiety is an important behavioral problem, which can cause tremendous emotional distress for both dogs and owners. It can occur in dogs of any age or breed, and is one of the most common reasons for pet owners to euthanize or give up their dogs.
What are the signs of separation anxiety?
A dog with separation anxiety becomes abnormally anxious when separated from his owner. The severity of the anxiety and the behaviors that the dog exhibits vary from individual to individual. Some dogs become anxious if they cannot actually see their owner; they constantly follow the owner from room to room. Other dogs can tolerate being alone in a room but will check frequently to reassure themselves that the owner is still in the house, and then go back to playing or chewing on a bone in another area. Still other dogs do not become anxious until the owner actually leaves the home. Some dogs become most anxious as soon as the owner leaves, and other dogs have a period of time during which they are comfortable alone, but they become anxious if the owner is gone for an extended period.
This anxiety often increases the longer the owner is gone, and can result in behaviors such as whining, pacing, salivation, barking, howling, hyperactivity, scratching, chewing, digging, urinating or defecating, and destruction of personal items or household objects. Dogs with separation anxiety often exhibit more than one of these behaviors. Dogs have been known to break their teeth and tear their nails and skin trying to get out of crates, and to destroy doors, and jump through windows as their anxiety increases.
Dogs with separation anxiety also often have an overly excited response when their owner returns home. They may whine, jump, or run in circles. This behavior may go on for an abnormal length of time after the owner gets home, and the dog will have the same extreme response even if the owner has only been gone for a few minutes.
What causes separation anxiety?
No one knows, for certain, why some dogs develop separation anxiety and others do not. Separation anxiety can occur in animals from multiple or single-pet homes. Separation anxiety may be more likely to occur in animals with a history of abuse or of multiple homes. Dogs that have missed out on normal social interaction with people or other animals, especially as puppies, may also be at increased risk. A dog that has never had a prior problem may develop separation anxiety when there is a change in the owner's work schedule, or after the household has moved to a new home. Some dogs may develop separation anxiety as they grow older.
It is important for owners of dogs with separation anxiety to understand that the inappropriate behavior the dog is exhibiting is due to anxiety, and not because the dog is angry or trying to 'get back' at the owner. Scolding or punishing the dog will only lead to confusion, more anxiety, and worse behavior. By videotaping some dogs whose owners have punished the dog for his destructive behavior, they have demonstrated that the dog's anxiety level increases just before the owner would normally come home. In these cases, behaviorists feel the dog's problem behavior is not due to anxiety about being alone, but because the dog is anxious about the probable punishment it will receive when the owner returns.
What should I do if I suspect my dog has separation anxiety?
If you feel your dog has separation anxiety, the first step is to discuss the situation with your veterinarian and have the dog undergo a complete physical examination. It is important to make sure that your dog's behavior is truly due to separation anxiety and not to something else. (For instance, inappropriate urination may occur if your dog was never actually fully housetrained, or if he has a urinary tract infection. A dog may bark when alone because he feels he is protecting his property, or because he can hear another dog.)
Your veterinarian may recommend some testing to make sure your dog does not have any underlying medical problems, which could contribute to behavior problems or make them worse. Tests may include a complete blood count, a chemistry profile, urinalysis, thyroid testing, a blood pressure check, and an ECG. These tests will also be important to verify the health status of your dog prior to being placed on any medication. Be sure that your veterinarian is aware of any other medication your dog is already taking, and any previous health problems.
How is separation anxiety treated?
For dogs with separation anxiety, the most effective approach is usually a combination of behavior modification exercises and anti-anxiety medication. It is essential to realize that both medication and behavior modification exercises are important parts of therapy for dogs with separation anxiety. In most cases, using one component alone will not be sufficient to achieve success. The medication is used to help your dog relax so that she can concentrate on performing the behavior modification exercises; the exercises are what actually change the dog's response to a stressful situation, over time.
Medications: Commonly used medications include clomipramine and amitriptyline, which can be prescribed by your veterinarian. Any anti-anxiety drug prescribed by your veterinarian needs to be given exactly as directed. Dogs with separation anxiety have a higher overall anxiety level, and drugs used as part of a treatment plan for separation anxiety need to be given regularly, not just when the dog seems anxious. Patience is important; it can take weeks to months for certain drugs to become effective. It is often necessary to try several drugs or combinations of drugs, to determine what will work best for an individual dog.
Behavior modification: Your veterinarian may be able to give you help with the behavior modification exercises, or refer you to an experienced animal behaviorist or trainer in your area. For the best result, it is important that the person you work with has had experience working with dogs with separation anxiety.
Behavior modification exercises must be done consistently (for weeks to months) to see results, and the exercises may need to be continued for life. Another component of behavior modification that may help your dog to be less anxious is increased exercise. Exercise has mental as well as physical benefits for dogs. Veterinary behaviorists often recommend 45-60 minutes of intense activity twice a day. If your dog is a 'couch potato,' start out slow and build up the intensity and length of time over several weeks. If your dog has any health problems, check with your veterinarian before starting the exercise program.
In addition to exercise, mental stimulation (playing fetch, working on commands, practicing agility exercises at home or in a class) is also important. Many types of dogs were originally bred to do a job, and they can become stressed without the mental activity they would normally use if they were "working."
Conclusion
Keep in mind that your dog does not have this problem behavior because he is mad at you or trying to 'get back' at you. Punishment, especially after the fact, will only be confusing and cause more anxiety. Always start with a visit to your veterinarian to rule out health problems. Separation anxiety can be a very frustrating and traumatic situation for both you and your dog, but with patience and proper treatment it can usually be dramatically improved.
During excitement, young dogs often spontaneously urinate. They have no control over this and sometimes do not even realize it has occurred. Other dogs may urinate as a sign of submission in the presence of another animal (or person) that they consider dominant. Submissive urination is sometimes seen in puppies or young dogs that have been abused. However, many puppies that have submissive urination are perfectly normal and from good backgrounds. These types of urination problems seem to be caused by either a lack of neuromuscular control over the bladder or by previous treatment that frightened or intimidated the puppy.
Owners should try to determine what actions or events cause the involuntary urination to occur. For some, this will be easy. Excitement or sudden movement toward the puppy may cause her to urinate. For others, it might be something as simple as direct eye contact. Many puppies urinate when you bend over them, so instead, kneel down to their level. Whatever the cause, do your best to eliminate these situations or actions. Most puppies will outgrow this behavior by six months to a year of age, especially if we let them mature through this stage of their life in a gentle and calm environment. Be patient. When an accident occurs, do not make a fuss. Clean it up and forget it.
Q: I often notice dogs and cats licking around their tails. Why do they do that?
A: Dogs and cats can lick under or around their tails for a variety of reasons. Some of the most common are:
Anal Gland Disease
Anal gland disease is one of the most common reasons a dog will lick under the tail. Dogs and cats have two anal glands (also called anal sacs) on each side of the anal opening. These can become impacted or infected. If they do, the pet will often lick the area to try to relieve the pressure in the glands. Some dogs will also 'scoot' along the floor when they have an anal gland problem.
Reproductive Disease or Discharges
Female animals will often lick the vulvar area when they are in heat. They will also lick the area if they have a uterine infection (pyometra). Some female animals develop vaginitis which can cause severe itching. A fourth reason a female may lick her vulva is when she is in the process of giving birth.
Fleas
Fleas often bite or are found at the base of the tail - where the tail attaches to the body. Cats and dogs with fleas may lick or chew at that site.
Parasites
On occasion, a pet will lick the anal area if it has intestinal worms. However, most animals with worms, do not show this behavior.
Normal Grooming
Dogs and cats may lick under or around the tail as a normal grooming process. If you see your pet is licking excessively, however, it is probably a sign of a medical problem and you should contact your veterinarian.
Picking the right toy for your dog isn't always easy. It may take a little trial and error before you find that perfect toy your dog just won't leave alone.
Below we've tried to summarize the different kinds of toys to help you find "the one".
Rubber toys Great jaw and mouth exercise for dogs that like to chew; keeps them occupied for hours; fun for fetch or non-interactive play; great for aggressive chewers because they are so durable. Some are hollow so you can put treats inside of them for extra fun. Examples include Kongs and Rhino Chew Toys.
Vinyl toys Easily compressed by the bite of just about any-sized dog; usually have squeakers that almost all dogs enjoy.
Soft toys Made of fleece, plush fabric; retains dog's scent for extended play; some have squeakers; great for fetch, other dogs just like to carry soft or plush toys around and snuggle.
Rope toys Great for fetch, tug games, and chewing; often flavored; good for teeth and gums; they last a long time. Examples: Chew N' Floss Rope Toys, Sports Plush Rope Toys, and Canvas Elongated Toys.
Rawhide chews and bones Chewing rawhide removes plaque from the dog's teeth and keeps them cleaner while the dog has a great time chewing; come in many flavors, sizes and shapes - from bones to chews.
Bone-Hard Toys & Chews Great for dogs who love to chew; good for the teeth since they remove plaque and are nonabrasive; relieve boredom; come in various flavors and sizes. Nylabones are a long-lasting chew toy, as well as other bone-hard chew toys.
Many dogs are surprisingly finicky about the size, shape, or feel of the toys they'll play with. If your dog doesn't play with the soft plush toy you give him, try a rubber or bone-hard toy. Be patient and don't give up - you'll find the toy type your pet loves to play with.
Does your dog: Get on the furniture and refuse to get off? Nudge your hand, insisting on being petted or played with? Refuse to come when called? Defend its food bowl or toys from you? "Nothing in life is free" can help. "Nothing in life is free" is not a magic pill that will solve a specific behavior problem; rather it’s a way of living with your dog that will help it behave better because it trusts and accepts you as its leader and is confident knowing its place in your family.
How To Practice "Nothing In Life Is Free:"
Using positive reinforcement methods, teach your dog a few commands and/or tricks. "Sit," "Down" and "Stay" are useful commands and "Shake," "Speak" and "Rollover" are fun tricks to teach your dog.
Once your dog knows a few commands, you can begin to practice "nothing in life is free." Before you give your dog anything (food, a treat, a walk, a pat on the head) it must first perform one of the commands it has learned.
For example:
Before you put your dog’s leash on to go for a walk, they must sit until you’ve put the leash on.
When you feed your dog, they must lie down and stay until you've put the bowl down.
When you play a game of fetch after work, make your companion sit and shake hands each time you throw the toy.
If you rub your dog's belly while watching TV, they must lie down and rollover before being petted.
Once you’ve given the command, don’t give your dog what it wants until it does what you want. If it refuses to perform the command, walk away, come back a few minutes later and start again. If your dog refuses to obey the command, be patient and remember that eventually it will have to obey your command in order to get what it wants.
Make sure your dog knows the command well and understands what you want before you begin practicing "nothing in life is free."
The Benefits of This Technique:
Most dogs assume a neutral or submissive role toward people, but some dogs will challenge their owners for dominance. Requiring a dominant dog to work for everything it wants is a safe and non-confrontational way to establish control.
Dogs who may never display aggressive behavior such as growling, snarling, or snapping, may still manage to manipulate you. These dogs may display affection, though "pushy" behavior, such as nudging your hand to be petted or "sneaking" its way on to the furniture in order to be close to you. This technique gently reminds the "pushy" dog that it must abide by your rules.
Obeying commands helps build a fearful dog’s confidence; having a strong leader and knowing its place in the hierarchy helps to make the submissive dog feel more secure.
Why This Technique Works:
Animals that live in groups, like dogs, establish a social structure within the group called a dominance hierarchy. This dominance hierarchy serves to maintain order, reduce conflict and promote cooperation among pack members. In order for your home to be a safe and happy place for pets and people, it’s best that the humans in the household assume the highest positions in the dominance hierarchy. Practicing "nothing in life is free" effectively and gently communicates to your dog that its position in the hierarchy is subordinate to yours. From your dog’s point of view, children also have a place in this hierarchy. Because children are small and can get down on the dog’s level to play, dogs often consider them to be playmates, rather than superiors. With the supervision of an adult, it’s a good idea to encourage children in the household (aged eight and over) to also practice "nothing in life is free" with your dog.
In order to understand why your dog is acting "dominant," it’s important to know some things about canine social systems. Animals who live in social groups, including domestic dogs and wolves, establish a social structure called a dominance hierarchy within their group. This hierarchy serves to maintain order,
reduce conflict and promote cooperation among group members. A position within the dominance hierarchy is established by each member of the group, based on the outcomes of interactions between themselves and the other pack members. The more dominant animals can control access to valued items such as food, den sites and mates. For domestic dogs, valued items might be food, toys, sleeping or resting places, as well as attention from their owner. In order for your home to be a safe and happy place for pets and people, it’s best that the humans in the household assume the highest positions in the dominance hierarchy. Most dogs assume a neutral or submissive role toward people, but some dogs will challenge their owners for dominance. A dominant dog may stare, bark, growl, snap or even bite when you give him a command or ask him to give up a toy, treat or resting place. Sometimes even hugging, petting or grooming can be interpreted as gestures of dominance and, therefore, provoke a growl or snap because of the similarity of these actions to behaviors that are displayed by dominant dogs. Nevertheless, a dominant dog may still be very affectionate and may even solicit petting and attention from you.
You may have a dominance issue with your dog if:
He resists obeying commands that he knows well.
He won’t move out of your way when required.
He nudges your hand, takes you’re arm in his mouth or insists on being petted or played with (in other words, ordering you to obey him).
He defends his food bowl, toys or other objects from you.
He growls or bares his teeth at you under any circumstances.
He won’t let anyone (you, the vet, the groomer) give him medication or handle him.
He gets up on furniture without permission and won’t get down.
He snaps at you.
What to do if you recognize signs of dominance in your dog:
If you recognize the beginning signs of dominance aggression in your dog, you should immediately consult an animal behavior specialist. No physical punishment should be used. Getting physical with a dominant dog may cause the dog to intensify his aggression, posing the risk of injury to you. With a dog that has shown signs of dominance aggression, you should always take precautions to ensure the safety of your family and others who may encounter your dog by:
Avoiding situations that elicit the aggressive behavior.
During the times your dog is acting aggressively, back off and use "happy talk" to relieve the tenseness of the situation.
Supervise, confine and/or restrict your dog’s activities as necessary, especially when children or other pets are present.
When you’re outdoors with your dog, use a "Halti" head collar or muzzle.
When you’re indoors with your dog, control access to the entire house by using baby gates and/or by crating your dog. You can also use a cage-type muzzle, or a "Halti" and leash, but only when you can closely supervise your dog. Dominance aggression problems are unlikely to go away without your taking steps to resolve them. Treatment of dominance aggression problems should always be supervised by an animal behavior specialist since dominant aggressive dogs can be potentially dangerous.
The following techniques, which don’t require a physical confrontation with your dog, can help you gain some control:
Spay or neuter your dog to reduce hormonal contributions to aggression. NOTE: After a mature animal has been spayed or neutered, it may take time for those hormones to clear from the system. Also, long-standing behavior patterns may continue even after the hormones or other causes no longer exist.
"Nothing in Life is Free" is a safe, non-confrontational way to establish your leadership and requires your dog to work for everything he gets from you (see our handout: "Nothing in Life is Free"). Have your dog obey at least one command (such as "sit") before you pet him, give him dinner, put on his leash or throw a toy for him. If your dog doesn’t know any commands or doesn’t perform them reliably, you’ll first have to teach him, using positive reinforcement, and practice with him daily. You may need to seek professional help if your dog is not obeying each time you ask after two to three weeks of working on a command.
Don’t feed your dog people food from the table and don’t allow begging.
Don’t play "tug of war," wrestle or play roughly with your dog.
Ignore barking and jumping up.
Don’t allow your dog on the furniture or your bed, as this is a privilege reserved for leaders. If your dog growls or snaps when you try to remove him from the furniture, use a treat to lure him off. Otherwise, try to limit his access to your bed and/or furniture by using baby gates, a crate, or by closing doors.
Always remember to reward good behavior.
Consult your veterinarian about acupuncture, massage therapy or drug therapy.
Obedience classes may be helpful in establishing a relationship between you and your dog in which you give commands and he obeys them (be sure to choose a trainer who uses positive reinforcement methods). Obedience classes alone, however, won’t necessarily prevent or reduce dominance aggression.
A Note About Children and Dogs
From your dog’s point of view, children, too, have a place in the dominance hierarchy. Because children are smaller and get down on the dog’s level to play, dogs often consider them to be playmates, rather than superiors. Small children and dogs should not be left alone together without adult supervision. Older children should be taught how to play and interact appropriately and safely with dogs; however, no child should be left alone with a dog who has displayed signs of aggression.
Dog Toys and How To Use Them
There are many factors that contribute to the safety or danger of a toy. Many of those factors, however, are completely dependent upon your dog’s size, activity level and play style. Although we cannot guarantee your dog’s enthusiasm or his safety with any specific toy, we can offer the following guidelines.
Safety First
The things that are usually the most attractive to dogs are often the very things that are the most dangerous. Dog-proof your home by checking for: string, ribbon, rubber bands, children’s toys, pantyhose and anything else that could be ingested. Toys should be appropriate for your dog’s current size. Balls and other toys that are too small can be easily swallowed or become lodged in your dog’s mouth or throat. Avoid or alter any toys that are not "dog-proof" by removing ribbons, strings, eyes or other parts that could be chewed off and ingested. Monitor your dog’s toys and discard any toy that starts to break into pieces or has pieces torn off. Ask your veterinarian about the safety of items like bones, hooves, pig’s ears and rawhides. Very hard rubber toys are safer and last longer. Take note of any toy that contains a "squeaker" buried in its center. Your dog may feel that he must find and destroy the squeak-source and could ingest it, in which case squeaking toys should be given only under supervision. Check labels for child safety. A stuffed toy that’s labeled as safe for children under three years old, and does not contain dangerous fillings is probably safe for pets too. Problem fillings include things like nutshells and polystyrene beads; however, even a "safe" stuffing is not truly digestible. Remember that soft toys are not indestructible, but some are sturdier than others. Soft toys should be machine washable.
Toys We Recommend
Active Toys:
Very hard rubber toys, like Kong. products. These are available in a variety of shapes and sizes and are fun for chewing, fetching and for carrying around. "Rope" toys that are usually available in a "bone" shape with knotted ends. Tennis balls make good fetch toys, but some dogs may chew off and ingest pieces.
Distraction Toys:
Kong.-type toys, especially when filled with broken-up treats or, even better, a mixture of broken-up treats and a small amount of peanut butter. The right size Kong. can keep a puppy or dog busy for hours. By chewing diligently your dog can access the treats in small bits – very rewarding! Double-check with your veterinarian about giving peanut butter to your dog. "Busy-box" toys are large, hard plastic cubes or balls with hiding places for treats. The dog has to move the toy around with his nose, mouth and paws to access the goodies inside. These toys should be large enough that your dog cannot get his mouth around it.
Comfort Toys:
Soft stuffed toys are good for several purposes, but are not appropriate for all dogs. For some dogs, the stuffed toy should be small enough to carry around. For dogs that want to shake or "kill" the toy, it should be the size that "prey" would be for that size dog (mouse-size, rabbit-size or duck-size). Dirty laundry, like an old t-shirt, pillowcase, towel or blanket, can be very comforting to a dog, especially if it smells like you! Be forewarned that the item could be destroyed by industrious
fluffing, carrying and nosing.
Get The Most Out Of Toys!
Rotate your dog’s toys weekly by making only four or five toys available at a time. Keep a variety of types easily accessible. If your dog has a huge favorite, like a soft "baby," you should probably leave it out all the time. Provide toys that offer a variety of uses - at least one toy to carry, one to "kill," one to roll and one to "baby." "Hide and Seek" is a fun game for dogs to play. "Found" toys are often much more attractive. Making an interactive game out of finding toys or treats is a good "rainy-day" activity for your dog, using up energy without the need for a lot of space. Many of your dog’s toys should be interactive. Interactive play is very important for your dog because he needs active "people time." By focusing on a specific task, like repeatedly returning a ball, Kong. or Frisbee, or playing "hide-and-seek" with treats or toys, your dog can expel pent-up mental and physical energy in a limited amount of time and space. This greatly reduces stress due to confinement, isolation and/or boredom. For young, high-energy and untrained dogs, interactive play also offers an opportunity for socialization and helps them learn about appropriate and inappropriate behavior with people and with other animals, like jumping up or being mouthy.
Tug of War
Tug of war has long been thought to be an absolute "don’t" in many dog-owning households. However, by taking a few precautions and setting some basic rules it can be a fun game for you and your dog. Choose a toy that will be reserved exclusively for this particular activity. This will help prevent your dog from grabbing and tugging anything you have in your hand.
Teach two commands:
o "Pull" or "Tug" begins the game. Never allow the dog to initiate tug on his own and always use your starting phrase when you begin the game.
o "Release" ends the game. Teach your dog to release the toy by offering a better toy in exchange. Do not start playing tug with your dog until he is consistently releasing the toy on command. If your dog does not give up the toy on command, stop the game immediately. Wait until he gets interested in something else and then put away the toy for use at another time. You may also take obedience breaks during the tug game. Each time the dog puts down the toy, ask for a few simple commands and then continue the game. Anyone in the family who cannot follow the rules of the game should not play tug with the dog.
NOTE: If your dog has shown signs of aggression towards you, tug of war is not a game we recommend.
Dog aggression is any behavior meant to intimidate or harm a person or another animal. Growling, baring teeth, snarling, snapping and biting are all aggressive behaviors. Although aggressive behaviors are normal for dogs, they’re generally unacceptable to humans. From a dog's perspective, there’s always a reason for aggressive behavior. Because humans and dogs have different communication systems, misunderstandings can occur between the two species. A person may intend to be friendly, but a dog may perceive that person's behavior as threatening or intimidating. Dogs aren’t schizophrenic, psychotic, crazy, or necessarily "vicious," when displaying aggressive behavior. Because aggression is so complex, and because the potential consequences are so serious, we recommend that you get professional in-home help from an animal behavior specialist if your dog is displaying aggressive behavior.
Types of Aggression
Dominance Aggression: Dominance aggression is motivated by a challenge to a dog's social status or to his control of a social interaction. Dogs are social animals and view their human families as their social group or "pack." Based on the outcomes of social challenges among group members, a dominance hierarchy or "pecking order" is established. If your dog perceives his own ranking in the hierarchy to be higher than yours, it’s likely that he’ll challenge you in certain situations. Because people don’t always understand canine communication, you may inadvertently challenge your dog's social position. A dominantly aggressive dog may growl if he is disturbed when resting or sleeping, or if he is asked to give up a favorite spot, such as the couch or the bed. Physical restraint, even when done in a friendly manner, like hugging, may also cause your dog to respond aggressively. Reaching for your dog's collar or reaching out over his head to pet him, could also be interpreted by him as a challenge for dominance. Dominantly aggressive dogs are often described as "Jekyll and Hydes" because they can be very friendly when not challenged. Dominance aggression may be directed at people or at other animals. The most common reason for dogs in the same family to fight with each other is instability in the dominance hierarchy.
Fear-Motivated Aggression: Fear-motivated aggression is a defensive reaction and occurs when a dog believes he is in danger of being harmed. Remember that it’s your dog's perception of the situation, not your actual intent, which determines your dog’s response. For example, you may raise your arm to throw a ball, but your dog, perceiving this to be a threat, may bite you because he believes he is protecting himself from being hit. A dog may also be fearfully aggressive when approached by other dogs.
Protective, Territorial And Possessive Aggression: Protective, territorial and possessive aggression are all very similar, and involve the defense of valuable resources. Territorial aggression is usually associated with defense of property. However, your dog's sense of territory may extend well past the boundaries of "his" yard. For example, if you walk your dog regularly around the neighborhood and allow him to urine-mark, to him, his territory may be the entire block! Protective aggression usually refers to aggression directed toward people or animals that a dog perceives as threats to his family, or pack. Dogs become possessively aggressive when defending their food, toys or other valued objects, such as Kleenex stolen from the trash!
Redirected Aggression: This type of aggression is relatively common, but is a behavior that pet owners may not always understand. If a dog is aroused into an aggressive response by a person or animal that he is prevented from attacking, he may redirect this aggression onto someone else. A common example occurs when two family dogs become excited, bark and growl in response to another dog passing through the front yard. The two dogs, confined behind a fence, may turn and attack each other because they can’t attack the intruder.
Predation Aggression: is usually considered to be a unique kind of aggressive behavior, because it’s motivated by the intent to obtain food, and not primarily by the intent to harm or intimidate.
Individual Variations:
Dogs differ in their likelihood to show aggressive behavior in any particular situation. Some dogs tend to respond aggressively with very little stimulation. Others may be subjected to all kinds of threatening stimuli and events, and never attempt to bite. The difference in this threshold at which a dog displays aggressive behavior is influenced by both environmental and genetic factors. If this threshold is low, a dog will be more likely to bite. Raising the threshold makes a dog less likely to respond aggressively. This threshold can be raised using behavior modification techniques. How easily the threshold can be changed is influenced by the dog's gender, age, breed, general temperament, and by whether the appropriate behavior modification techniques are chosen and correctly implemented. Working with aggressive dogs can be potentially dangerous, and should be done only by, or under the guidance of, an experienced animal behavior professional who understands animal learning theory and behavior.
What You Can Do:
First check with your veterinarian to rule out medical causes for the aggressive behavior.
Seek professional help. An aggression problem will not go away by itself. Working with aggression problems requires in-home help from an animal behavior specialist.
Take precautions. Your first priority is to keep everyone safe. Supervise, confine and/or restrict your dog’s activities until you can obtain professional help. You’re liable for your dog’s behavior. If you must take your dog out in public, consider a cage-type muzzle as a temporary precaution, and keep in mind that some dogs can get a muzzle off.
Avoid exposing your dog to situations where he is more likely to show aggression. You may need to keep him confined to a safe room and limit his people-contact.
If your dog is possessive of food, treats or a certain place, don’t allow him access to those items. In an emergency, bribe him with something better than what he has. For example, if he steals your shoe, trade him the shoe for a piece of chicken.
Spay or neuter your dog. Intact dogs are more likely to display dominance, territorial and protective aggressive behavior.
What Not To Do:
Punishment won’t help and, in fact, will make the problem worse. If the aggression is motivated by fear, punishment will make your dog more fearful, and therefore more aggressive. Attempting to punish or dominate a dominantly aggressive dog is likely to cause him to escalate his behavior in order to retain his dominant position. This is likely to result in a bite or a severe attack. Punishing territorial, possessive or protective aggression is likely to elicit additional defensive aggression.
Don’t encourage aggressive behavior. Playing tug-of-war or wrestling games encourages your dog to attempt to "best" you or "win" over you, which can result in the beginning of a dominance aggression problem. When dogs are encouraged to "go get 'em" or to bark and dash about in response to outside noises or at the approach of a person, territorial and protective aggressive behavior may be the result.
The Faces of Aggression
What it is and Where it Comes From:
Aggressive dogs bark and growl and snap and bite. Superficially, it all seems the same. Their intent is to harm a person or another animal and they do it because they are afraid or in pain or because they are just plain "mean". But the broad term aggression defines a multitude of biological factors and behaviors that can often times be quite complex. If we can better understand aggression we can more easily recognize the early warning signs and possibly avoid a serious if not life threatening situation.
We know that:
The domestic dog's early ancestors needed to chase and kill prey for food and that they used aggression to survive in the wild.
Since dogs are pack animals (like wolves), preferring to travel and hunt in groups rather than alone, the more aggressive the animal the higher the social position in the pack and the more that dog gets to eat and mate and keep his or her position.
Protection of one's territory including its space, food and potential mates, will sometimes require aggression to defend it.
Long ago, humans recognized the potential value of a dog's aggressive predispositions and shaped them - through selective breeding and training - into useful working behavior for such tasks such as hunting, eradication of vermin, livestock herding and for protection from our enemies.
Inappropriate aggression, while infrequently a result of a medical problem, is usually caused by human mismanagement or, in some cases, little or no management at all. In most cases, the aggression that is deemed inappropriate is perfectly appropriate for the dog in the absence of our teaching. The dog is simply acting naturally (as he would in the wild) in order to survive.
Preventing Inappropriate Aggression:
As with most things, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. When selecting your canine companion:
Select a dog that matches your lifestyle. Small dogs can get exercise running around an apartment while larger dogs need the outdoors.
Study the breed. What was it bred for? Working and herding dogs are more likely to show aggression since they were bred to do so.
Select a breeder with a good reputation for breeding for health and temperament. Local dog clubs, veterinarians and trainers are a good source. If a breeder does not handle the pups at an early age or allows them to leave the litter before eight weeks of age, find another breeder. These pups often develop behavior problems down the road.
Take your puppy to puppy classes for socialization and conduct socialization exercises away from class also..
Begin basic obedience training at four months to promote communication, respect and discipline.
Categories of Aggression:
Dominance Aggression
Attempt to move higher in the social hierarchy of the family (pack). Can be directed at family members including other dogs residing in the home.
Fear Aggression:
Fear of an actual or perceived threat such as a person, animal or situation. The dog may "freeze", "flee" or "fight."
Territorial/Protective Aggression:
Perceived threat to the home or family or family member. Usually a stranger.
Pain Aggression:
Response to sickness or injury. Aggression toward nearest human or animal.
Maternal Aggression:
Threat or perceived threat to a dam's pups. Aggression toward any human or animal too close to the litter.
Predatory Aggression:
The predisposed behavior to chase and kill prey for food. Usually triggered by fleeing from the dog with or without fearful vocalizations. Can be a smaller animal or a child.
Seizure-Related Aggression:
Caused by seizure-like brain disorders. Directed toward anyone or anything.
Treating Aggression Problems:
At the first sign of an aggression problem, consult a qualified animal behaviorist or veterinarian behaviorist. Interview them and check their references. Basically, the methods used to lessen or eliminate aggression are:
Training (behavior modification)
Pharmacological Intervention (use of behavior altering drugs)
Surgical Intervention (usually castration of the male dog)
Avoiding Provocative Situations
"I can't wait till my dog is TRAINED!" -- as if that is an END?! ..and when will TRAINED be?
When he sits? When he lies down? When he always comes? When he doesn't jump on people? When he doesn't get into the trash?
When he can heel off leash? When he can do a directed retrieve? When he can track a missing person? When he can herd sheep into a pen?
You must decide what TRAINED means to you and your dog. TRAINED, is NOT an end - it is a lifelong journey. Kind of like my own education - I learn new things daily.
TRAINED is not magical - it won't happen without outside influence.
If YOU are NOT that outside influence, other things WILL be (i.e.; the dog won't wait for you to train him!):
You put old bread out on the ground for the birds - your dog finds it and eats all of it. He has just been trained to eat the bread - food is a strong reward for behavior.
One of his toys is partially under a bush in the garden. He uses his paws to get to it and digs a hole in the process. He gets his toy and the garden gets a hole. He was just trained how to get a hard to reach object he wants. The object itself (the toy) was his reward.
A delivery person comes to the door with a package while you aren't home. Your dog, who is learning to alert when strangers come to the door, jumps at the picture window, barking and banging on the window. The delivery person leaves the package and walks away. Your dog has just learned that the barking and lunging "chased" the stranger in uniform away.
LACK of training on your part is STILL TRAINING!!
Your dog shows fear of thunderstorms, fireworks and gunshots. During a nasty thunderstorm, his eyes bug, ears go back - he paces and pants with his mouth wide open. You go to him and stroke him calmly, murmuring, "It's OK, it's ok." The next thunderstorm happens a few weeks later, and he acts worse. He tries to dig under the dresser or hides in the tub. You go to him, hug him and pet him and again tell him "It's OK, you're alright.". You wonder why his fear reaction has increased when you are working so hard to calm him. He IS learning - and you ARE teaching him! You are teaching him to be afraid of storms. Petting, stroking, hugging, soothing talk - all are ways to PRAISE your dog (more about this in an upcoming article). In this example, the dog is being inadvertently praised for his fearful behavior.
"He acts JUST FINE at home. I don't know WHY he gets so crazy here at dog school." I'll tell you why. When you do your training sessions at home, you chase the kids outside, turn off the radio and TV (because it distracts you), go to a quiet room or basement and just train. Then, when the dog encounters all the external stimulation at dog school, he can't handle it because he wasn't TRAINED with it. In order to have a TRAINED dog, he must be taught to behave correctly in ANY situation he will encounter: crowds, groups of dogs, vet clinic, groomer, front of your house, down the street, in your backyard, at the park during a ball game, when it is sunny, rainy, snowing, blowing, cold, hot, with birds, cats or squirrels around - ANY situation or place you can think of.
TRAINED is what you accept, promote and control.
"If I leave him outside for a while, what can he get into?"
"If he isn't be crated when I'm not home, what can happen that I cannot control?"
"I know if I leave food on the counter, he will eat it when I'm not looking. How can I work to change this?"
"If that loose dog runs up to us in the park, how can I handle the situation?"
"I see a squirrel/cat ahead on our walk and I know my dog will want to chase. How do I control his actions BEFORE he gets out of control?"
TRAINING means working and thinking one step ahead of your dog.
Your dog loves to fetch. Balls, toys, anything will work. He always tries to get you to participate by jumping on your lap and depositing a toy. This time, you are reading the paper and your dog jumps up with his toy and crumples the paper. "NO!, I don't WANT to play!", you say as you toss the toy away. Your dog retrieves the toy and comes back (he thinks "that throw was OK, but let's try for a better one!") This time, he doesn't jump on your lap, but nudges under the paper at your hand. You push him away several times, telling him "NO!", until finally you get angry, take the toy and throw it and tell him to go away. Your dog has just learned that patience is a virtue. If he pesters you long enough, he'll get to play!
You meet up with a friend on your walk with your dog, and you stop to chat for a while. Your dog is impatient, and starts to pace and prance. You are busy talking, but want him to sit quietly at your side. Telling him firmly to SIT, you go back to your conversation and don't realize he never sat. Your dog has just learned that he can ignore your commands. Seeing later that he didn't SIT, you tell him again. Again he ignores your command. Finally, you break away from your conversation and angrily command him to SIT. Well, he has learned he can ignore your commands UNTILL you get mad!
Eating dinner, or even snacks, causes your dog to sit at your feet, drool and stare. You wish he wouldn't be such a beggar. After several minutes of enduring the stares and getting no response to your commands to "go and lie down", you give in and hand him some food from your dish. Dogs learn very easily to be patient (and persistent) to get what they want.
TRAINING means consistency and meaning what you convey both verbally and non-verbally.
TRAINING means following through with your commands.
When your dogs does what you want, when you want - LET HIM KNOW! You certainly let him know when he is bad - you need to concentrate on when he is GOOD, so he will know and learn.
TRAINING means praise when something is correctly done.
There is a law in dog training that says:YOU HAVE THE DOG YOU WANT
Q: I want to adopt a retired racing Greyhound but I've heard they chase cats. I don't want anything to happen to my cat! Can I teach them to get along together?
A: Yes, most dogs can be taught to tolerate cats if their owners are willing to be patient and consistent. Some dogs take longer to train than others and the difference is usually due to the dog's level of "prey drive".
Nature designed canines to be predators — to chase and catch smaller animals for food. Although dogs have been domesticated for thousands of years, they still act upon the instincts nature gave them. Through generations of selective breeding, people have modified these instincts. By decreasing the effects of some and enhancing the effects of others, we've been able to develop a wide variety of different breeds of dogs, each meant to serve a different purpose or perform a certain function.
A dog's instinct to chase and catch something is called his "prey drive." Throw a stuffed toy for a puppy and watch his prey drive in action as he chases it, catches it, then shakes it to "kill" it. Breeds and individual dogs vary in the intensity of their prey drives. Breeds created specifically for killing other animals — most terriers, for example, were intended to kill rats — have very high prey drives.
In other breeds, the prey drive has been altered to suit an entirely different purpose. In the Border Collie, a herding breed, the instinct to chase and catch animals has been modified to chase and gather them together. Prey drive can also be modified by training. Drug sniffing and arson detection dogs have high prey drives that have been redirected toward objects - these dogs are taught that illegal drugs and fire accelerants are "prey." Although we think of the Greyhound as a racing dog, it was originally bred for hunting, using its great speed to chase down hares and other fast creatures. Consequently, it has a high prey drive and is inclined to chase cats.
There are several effective ways to train a dog with a high prey drive to live peacefully with cats or other small pets. I prefer to teach these dogs that cats are off limits altogether and are not to be disturbed. Using a friend or family member to help you, set up several short daily training sessions. With the dog wearing a training collar and leash, put him on a sit/stay beside you. Have your friend hold the cat on the other side of the room. Your dog will probably be very curious and even excited at seeing the cat, but insist that he remain in the sit/stay position. Praise your dog for sitting calmly.
Have your friend bring the cat a few steps closer. If your dog continues to stay quietly at your side, wonderful! Praise him for it. If he tries to lunge at the cat, though, give him a stern, fierce-sounding "NO! LEAVE IT!" along with a short, sharp jerk on the lead and put him back in the sit-stay position. As soon as he is sitting calmly again, praise him sincerely. Continue bringing the cat closer, a few feet at a time, repeating the corrections as needed and making sure to praise the dog when he sits quietly and ignores the cat. Have patience — depending on the intensity of your dog, you might only be able to gain a few feet each session.
When your dog is able to sit calmly even when the cat is right next to him, you're ready to proceed to the next step. Release the dog from his sit/stay and let him walk around the room with the cat present. Leave his lead on so you can easily catch him and give the necessary correction if he gives any sign of wanting to chase the cat. Your supervision at this point is critical - to be effective, you must be able to correct the dog each and every time he even thinks about going after the cat. If he's allowed to chase her, even once, he'll want to try it again and you'll have to start your training over from the beginning.
Some dogs learn quickly, others may take weeks to become trustworthy around cats. Until you're sure the dog will remember his training, don't leave them together unsupervised!
A Siberian Husky owner combined a dog crate with the "LEAVE IT!" command to help introduce her cats and dogs. Sometimes the dog was crated with the cat free in the room, at other times, the cat was crated while the dog was free. The dog was allowed to investigate the cat but not to harass or bark at it.
Another owner uses a technique that's often practiced to help dogs adjust to a new baby in the household. By giving the dog extra attention and even special treats when the cat (or baby) is in the room, the dog soon learns that having the cat around means very good things are going to happen to him!
Q: I've been following your advice and it was working pretty well until the other day. Something startled the cat and she took off running. So did the dog — hot on her tail! He wouldn't stop when I told him to. What did I do wrong with my training?
A: Nothing. You just need to do a little more work.
A dog's prey drive — his instinct to chase and catch — is triggered by movement. Things that quickly move past or away from him like balls, children playing, joggers, bicyclists, speeding cars and running cats, get an immediate reaction from your dog because nature programmed him to chase moving creatures. As long as your cat was sitting still or just going about her business, your dog learned to ignore her. But in motion, she became something completely different and exciting. His ancient instinct to chase called to him and he obeyed without thinking.
Just as you taught your dog to sit quietly when the cat is in the room, you can also teach him to ignore the cat when she's running or playing. Once again, get a friend to help you. With the dog on lead and in a sit/stay position, have your friend play with the cat and encourage her to run about. Praise your dog for sitting calmly, correct him if he tries to chase. As your dog becomes more reliable, he may be allowed to investigate the cat's play or even join in the game as long as he remembers his manners and how to respond to your command to "LEAVE IT!" when necessary.
Dogs and cats don't always have to fight like cats and dogs
Introduction
Dogs and cats have been part of family lives for thousands of years. The dog came first, about 10,000 or more years ago, and the cat followed about 5000 years ago, when Egyptians enticed him to dine on rodents that ate the grains stored in silos. Both have played major roles in the development of civilization: the dog as willing helper, companion, and guardian; the cat as roommate, mouser extraordinaire, and enigma. Dogs earn such descriptions as faithful, affectionate, and courageous; cats are aloof, elegant, and often devilish. Dogs are pack animals, cats are loners, but each species touches something in humans that is unreachable by the other.
Physical differences are obvious. All domestic cats are cut from a similar cloth. Although there are minor variations in coat type, head and body shape, and size, cats lack the depth and breadth of differences found in dog breeds. The tiny Chihuahua with its smooth or long coat and big, pointed ears is as much a dog as the huge Great Dane, but a child unfamiliar with either may not recognize them as the same species. Cats don’t fool anyone — at least with their appearance.
Are they enemies?
The idea that dogs hate cats may have been born because dogs chase cats and grew because cartoons depicted ongoing battles between the two species. Or it may have been generated because some dog people strongly dislike cats and some cat people disdain dogs. However, dogs and cats can live peaceably as long as owners understand the behaviors of each.
Both dogs and cats are predators. Cats pounce on anything that moves — mice, butterflies, birds, grasshoppers, and feathery toys waved on the end of a stick. Dogs chase anything that moves, especially if it squeals, hisses, or otherwise mouths off. If the cat triggers the dog’s prey drive, the dog will chase. If a medium-to-large dog catches the cat, it can easily kill it by grabbing and shaking.
Kittens and young cats practice their hunting skills on people feet, curtains, bedspreads, plants, and dog tails. They hide under chairs and tables, dart at the "prey" hissing and spitting and clawing, and hurry away, sometimes with jerky jack-knife movements or agile leaps and bounds, sometimes with breathtaking grace and beauty. Dogs often bristle at such challenges, leading to a merry chase through the house or yard. Households with both species of pets can solve this problem by keeping them separated if necessary.
In some cases, a resident cat will isolate itself when a puppy is added to the family. In other cases, cats and dogs never get used to each other. In still other cases, cat or kitten and dog or puppy play together and build a friendship that finds them curled up together in a crate or bed and drinking out of the same bowl. The type of relationship developed in each household depends on the personality of the animals and the understanding of the owners.
Behavior differences
Cats are independent creatures. The least independent cat is more independent than the most independent dog. Cats exude an aura of self-confidence, of mastery over their territory and its inhabitants. Most cats do not deign to obey commands, and if they do, pleasing a human is probably the last thing on their minds. Fido is driven to fit into a family hierarchy; Felix could care less as long as his basic needs are met.
Cats are physically and mentally capable of exploring their surroundings in great detail. Dogs are physically clumsy in comparison, for their bodies are not as agile and they are mentally tuned to different stations — they concentrate on dominance and submission, play, and keeping track of the people in their lives instead of exploration. As pets they can complement each other well for those families that need or want the independence of a cat combined with the faithfulness of a dog.
Integrating cat and dog
Always supervise cats and dogs until you know they will get along. Some adult dogs will carry kittens around, and young kittens will accept this attention, but it’s probably best to gently take the kitten away from the dog to avoid injury.
If you have more than one dog, do not allow them to gang up on the cat. Two dogs make a small pack; the cat may look like quarry to one and he may entice the other into a hunt. It’s best to introduce the cat to one dog at a time so that each dog understand that the cat is part of the family, not an object of play or prey.
Make sure the dog does not have access to the cat’s litter box. Sooner or later, unless you can check the box several times a day and clean it immediately, Fido will eat the cat droppings. Some owners handle this problem by placing the litter box in a room accessible by a cat door so the dog can’t get in.
Separate cats and dogs at mealtime. As complete carnivores, cats need a diet that includes the amino acid taurine; if the dog eats the cat’s food and all the cat gets is leavings in the dog bowl, the cat might develop a dietary deficiency. In addition, a dog that guards his food could attack the cat or gulp his meals too quickly and develop digestive problems.
Don’t leave thawing meat, cooling desserts, or any other food or scraps where a cat can get them. Not only will the cat jump to the table or counter or spill the waste basket, but he will either drop things on the floor for the dog or send the dog into a frenzy of frustrated whining and barking. Some dogs will bark whenever a cat leaps or climbs to a surface used for food.
If your dog has a high prey drive, make sure to teach the command "leave it" so you can control his chase impulse. It’s best to prevent the pursuit, for once the chase sequence starts, the dog will likely be deaf to instructions.
Make sure the cat gets plenty of opportunity to stalk and pounce on things other than the dog’s tail.
Pay attention to both pets as often as possible. You can tell Fido to "down-stay" while you hold the kitten in your lap and tell him matter-of-factly that this newcomer is now part of the family and you will accept no rough stuff. Often the attitude and attention of the owner is enough to prevent serious rivalries or hostilities from developing.
Q: My dog barks all the time. He barks at the mailman, at sounds he hears on TV, at birds outside the window, whenever the doorbell rings, whenever he wants something. He never seems to shut up. I’ve tried yelling at him, squirting lemon juice in his mouth and tossing a "throw can" like my obedience instructor said. Nothing seems to work. He’s driving me crazy! What can I do?
A: Barking can be, quite honestly, a hard behavior to modify because it’s a self-rewarding activity for the dog. When a dog barks, he almost always makes something happen. When he barks at the mailman, for example, the mailman leaves. (The dog doesn’t know that dropping off the mail and walking away is the mailman’s job — he thinks his barking has scared the ‘intruder’ off.)
When the doorbell rings, he barks to let you know that something is out there ... and sure enough, you come to see. If he barks for his dinner, you usually bring it to him. Yelling, scolding or throwing things are seldom effective as corrections because he’s still making something happen with his barking even if that something isn’t very nice. A better way to hush your noisy dog is to teach him to start — and stop — barking on command.
First, train your dog to "Speak!" for a dog cookie. Praise him when he barks. After a few woofs, tell him "alright, Enough!" in a firm, no nonsense voice. Immediately pop the cookie into his mouth. It’s impossible for him to bark when his mouth is stuffed with cookie so he has no choice except to obey your command to stop barking. Now tell him what a good dog he is for being quiet.
With a dog as noisy as yours, you can use all his barking episodes as training opportunities. When the doorbell rings, praise him for barking to alert you, then tell him "Enough!" and reward with a treat when he stops. He’s going to learn that you want a few woofs and then silence. Make sure you praise him for barking when he’s supposed to and then stopping (Enough!) on command.
When you know that he fully understands the meaning of the word "Enough," you can start correcting him when he ignores it. If he doesn’t obey your command to stop barking, give him a sharp tug on his collar and scold "NO! Enough!" Before long, you’ll be able to use "Enough" to stop him before he starts to bark.
This training is going to take a few weeks to sink in. Be persistent and don’t give up. Some breeds are naturally noisy and will take more work to train than others. Even when your dog understands what’s expected of him, he may still bark more often than you’d like him to. Now, though, you have a way of getting his attention and letting him know what you want. Even if you have to say "Enough!" each time he barks when he’s not supposed to, you’ll be doing much better than when you didn’t have a way to communicate with him at all.
Q: My dog lives outside and barks almost constantly. The neighbors are complaining and they’ve called the police once. If I can’t get her to stop, I’m going to have to give her away. Would one of those bark collars help?
A: It might but there’s a good chance it won’t be a permanent cure. Dogs are social creatures; nature didn’t intend for them to live by themselves isolated from their families. Dogs that live outdoors are often lonely and bored. They bark for attention and for something to do. A bark collar might silence her temporarily but if you don’t take care of her needs for company and exercise, she’ll learn to ignore the collar and continue barking. For a long-term solution, bring her inside and make her a genuine part of your family.
Q: I'm almost at my wit's end. My Golden Retriever is 2 years old and he's so hyper! He's always into something, chews on the furniture, jumps up on everyone upsetting the guests, he digs under the fence and he's in my face all the time. I thought he'd calm down as he got older but he hasn't. Any ideas?
A: Golden Retrievers are very energetic, enthusiastic, people-loving dogs. What you're describing—being "in your face" all the time, chewing, jumping up and excitability are normal activities for this kind of dog. This doesn't mean that they can't be modified with training but you need to understand that these are some of characteristics of the type of dog you chose. Golden Retrievers, like many sporting breeds, need training, exercise, attention and a job to do in order to be the kind of pet you want.
Goldens excel in obedience competitions. They are very trainable and willing at any age. Training, however, isn't a one-time thing, it needs to be practiced every day. For the Golden who jumps up, tell the dog to "SIT-and-STAY" when guests are about to come in the door. Until the dog is reliable on command, keep a leash on him and use it to enforce the command. Make sure you give lots of praise for obeying; Goldens thrive on praise. Jumping up is an expression of joy over seeing you or a new person, so make the experience of obeying your command (by using treats and praise) more rewarding than the act of jumping up.
For the dog that's in your face—well, that's where your people-loving Golden wants to be most of all. But I know there are times when you just can't have him on top of you. Sign up for obedience class and teach him what "down-and-stay" means. When you need to have your dog out of your hair temporarily, tell him to "down-and-stay or temporarily confine him to a dog crate.
Destructive behavior like chewing and digging, especially when seen in an active breed like a Golden, is often a sign of boredom and lack of exercise. A short term cure is to make sure your dog has plenty of appropriate chew toys. There are bitter-tasting spray-on products you can get and apply to your furniture that will discourage chewing. Keep chewable valuables out of reach. If chewing while you're gone is a problem, get a dog crate. It keep will keep him safe and out of trouble when you can't supervise him.
For a long term cure for chewing and destructive behavior, your Golden needs a constructive way to use his energy. Daily walks are more effective than just being let out into the yard to amuse himself. Walks are fun and healthy for both of you! Take advantage of your dog's natural retrieving and athletic ability—can he catch a Frisbee or a ball? Sure he can! Can you give him a job? Can he fetch things around the house for you like pieces of dirty laundry or put away his own toys? Sure he can—if you take the time to show him how. Obedience training and practice are effective, too. It takes a lot of energy to concentrate and obey commands! You can incorporate obedience commands into everything you do. Walks, games and work to do are all great energy-burners and give him the personal attention he craves.
Your Golden's greatest desire is to please you. You can show him what it takes to make you happy through training and praise. By the same token, you have to understand that your dog has needs, too. Every successful relationship, whether human or canine, involves an understanding of each other's needs and how best to meet them. If you give him what he needs—exercise, training, a job to do and adequate praise and attention, he'll be better able to give you what you need—a well-behaved, calm companion!
Q: I'm so frustrated! My dog has a long, thick coat and I've tried to groom him but he just won't cooperate. Trying to work with him always turns into a wrestling match and I'm the loser. Sometimes he even snaps at me. I've heard that dogs like being brushed but this one doesn't! Is there anything I can do?
A: Yes! You're not alone -- many dogs have to learn to behave themselves before they realize how nice it feels to be groomed.
An unruly dog's attitude toward grooming isn't much different from that of a small child's. Toddlers often resent having their faces washed or their hair brushed, but being clean and tidy is a necessary part of life. If your child refused to be bathed or threw a tantrum over it, what would you do? Gently, patiently and firmly, you'd teach him to tolerate it. The same for your dog.
First, the dog needs to learn to tolerate your handling of his body, even the parts he'd rather you left alone. Some dogs don't want their feet touched, with others, their rear ends or tails. You can easily teach your dog that this handling feels good and is something to look forward to.
To start this training, choose a time when you're relaxed and in a good mood. Your dog should be relaxed and in a good mood, too. An ideal time is after your dog has had a meal and has settled down for a nap. Sit next to your dog and stroke his body. Talk softly to him while you gently massage him all over. Encourage him to stretch out flat on his side. Rub his belly, scratch his ears, the base of his tail, all his favorite places. Then move on to his unfavorite places usually his feet and rear end. Run your hands down his legs to his paws and gently massage his toes and pads. Massage his ears, rump, thighs and hocks. Praise him for lying quietly. Most dogs enjoy this and relax almost completely. It's very relaxing for the owner, too!
Give your dog a massage for a few minutes every day. It won't take long for him to look forward to this time with you. Dogs love one-on-one attention. They especially love to feel good and this is about as good as it gets!
After a few of these massages, introduce a brush. I recommend a "pin brush" -- it looks similar to a woman's hair brush. At first, brush only for a few moments and don't try to make any real grooming progress. Your goal is to get him used to the sensation and to associate it with the pleasant massage process. Each day, brush him a few minutes longer, spending time on different parts of his body. Again, praise him for lying quietly and tell him how wonderful he looks.
Although your dog is sure to enjoy his massage and this exclusive attention, after a little while he may decide that enough is enough and try to get up. You'll feel his body tense as he prepares to rise. Before he's actually lifted his head, place the flat of your hand along the side of his neck, just behind his ears and gently but firmly, push his head back to floor, telling him "No, be still." Praise him and rub his tummy as he settles back down. Brush him a little while longer you should be the one to decide when the session is over. Increase the length of the session a little at a time until he'll lie there as long as you want.
Some dogs are too rambunctious or dominant to lie quietly on the floor. Here's a tip from professional groomers -- use a grooming table. On the ground, the dog is in control. He's quicker and stronger than you are and he knows it. Off the ground, he's insecure and you're in control. Grooming tables can be purchased from pet stores or supply companies. You can easily make one with material from the hardware store. A kitchen counter (for a small dog) or a workbench will do in a pinch as long as there's room for the dog to stand comfortably and has a non-skid surface.
To get your dog used to the table, put him on it for a few moments every day. Praise him, give him treats, massage him, handle his body all over. Make the table a pleasant place to be. Be gentle but firm and insist that he stand, sit or lie quietly while you touch him. If he's really uncooperative, ask someone to help you by steadying him and keeping him from jumping off. Using the same process that I've already described, introduce him to the brush. Each day, increase the length of the session and brush more seriously, praising for good behavior.
Don't tolerate any growling or snapping! You wouldn't put up with sassiness from your child just because she doesn't want her face washed. You shouldn't put up with sassiness from your dog either. Be firm! Correct each and every instance of nasty behavior by grabbing your dog's muzzle, glaring at him and saying "No!" in your toughest, meanest voice. Then, matter of factly, continue working. As your dog learns that his antics won't scare you or make you stop, he'll settle down and behave.
A well-groomed dog looks good and feels good. Regular grooming helps to build a close bond between the two of you through one-on-one attention. It keeps tabs on his health by helping you stay in tune with his body and skin condition. A well-groomed dog is a thing of beauty and something to be proud of. Your dog can tell when you're proud of him and he'll strut his stuff with all the flair of a show dog!
My last dog behaved terribly at the vet's....
Q: My last dog behaved terribly at the vet's. I have a puppy now and want to get things started on the right foot. Is there anything I can do to train her so that going to the vet won't be so hard on her -- and me?
A: Sure! There are a lot of hints in the answer I just gave about teaching a dog to be groomed. Few of us like going to the doctor and few dogs like going to the vet. Like grooming, though, going to the vet is a necessary part of a dog's life. The better your dog behaves, the faster the vet's exam will go and the more effective it will be.
This kind of training is part of what we call "socialization." Socialization is the process of teaching a dog to live comfortably in a human world. To do that, the dog has to learn to accept handling by strangers, meet new people and cope with new places. A dog can be socialized at any age and it's easy to socialize a puppy.
Almost anything can be turned into an opportunity for socialization, even regular playtime. Every chance you get, handle the puppy's feet and toes, open her mouth, look in her ears. Get her used to being touched on all parts of her body. Have your family and friends do the same. Be gentle but firm and don't take no for an answer. Praise her for allowing this handling.
Many dogs are afraid of the vet's examination table. To prevent that fear, pick up your puppy and set her on a raised surface such as a grooming table, desk or kitchen counter a couple times a day. With one hand supporting her rear and your other hand under her chin, teach her to stand quietly, for just a few seconds at first but gradually working up to a couple minutes. Reward her with treats for being calm and still. (Never step away from the table leaving your puppy unattended for even a second. She could jump off in an instant and be seriously injured or killed.)
When you're at the vet's office, help your puppy to be confident by being confident yourself. Don't comfort or try to soothe the puppy if she's frightened. It will only backfire and make her even more frightened. Instead, talk to her in a high-pitched, "happy" tone of voice. Bring along some of her favorite treats and toys and play a game with her. Encourage her to meet and be petted by the vet techs.
In the exam room, put the puppy on the table and hold her in position just like you've been doing at home. This should be familiar to her by now and she knows that you expect her to stand quietly. Be firm, correct her with a stern "No!" and gently put her back in position if she tries to struggle. Reward good behavior with praise and treats.
If Tugger runs the Iditarod every time you clip a leash to his collar or if he becomes aggressive with dogs you meet on the street, a head collar may be a useful addition to your canine tool box.
The head collar is in widespread use in Britain and Europe. In this country, it is better known as a halter, a contraption more commonly seen on the head of a horse than on a dog. The head collar for dogs has two basic parts — the collar that fits snugly around the dog's neck just in back of his ears, and the face loop that fits loosely over his muzzle and allows complete and gentle control of the head. The face loop is not a muzzle. The dog can breathe, pant, eat, drink, and kiss your face while wearing the face loop.
The leash is attached to the head collar underneath the dog's chin. Most dogs fight the head collar at first, but if it is fitted correctly and if the handler coaxes the dog into acceptance, the dog will accept it in short order. The key is to maintain a happy attitude, give the dog treats when he walks without pawing at the face loop, and calmly control the dog if he tries to remove the loop.
Since the leash is attached to the head collar under the dog's chin, a gentle pressure upward on the leash will stop the dog from pawing at the loop. If the dog drops his head in preparation for pawing at the loop, just lift up and keep walking — and as soon as the dog stops struggling, praise and give him a treat.
If the dog does forge ahead, steady pressure on the leash will turn him back towards you and prevent that arm-out-of-the-socket dash down the road.
Q: I’ve been taking my dog to obedience classes but I’m still having problems getting him to understand what I want him to do. My instructor says I’m not using the right tone of voice or body language but I don’t know what she means. Can you help me?
A: Since dogs don’t talk, spoken language isn’t as important to them as it is to people. While they can learn what certain words mean, dogs understand non-verbal signals like tone of voice, gestures and posture better than they understand words.
For example, get your dog’s attention and then, in a happy voice, call him to you using a different command than he’s used to and a different name than his own. If his name is Barney, say "Over here, Fred!" Guess what? Even if he’s never heard those words before, he’ll still come because he recognizes the inviting tone of voice you always use when you want him to come.
Dogs are also very sensitive to facial expressions and eye contact. He knows that a smile means you’re happy and a scowl means you’re not. Here’s another example: Using that same cheerful voice combined with a big smile, tell him that he’s a terrible, awful, miserable dog and that you’re really mad at him. What does he do? Instead of cowering in shame, he wiggles, wags and wants to kiss you! Why? Because you’re talking to him in the same tone that you normally use to praise him. He doesn’t care what words you use – it’s your happy attitude that he’s responding to.
Dogs pay attention to your posture, too. Crouching to the dog’s level invites them to come or play. Standing straight with your shoulders back is a more commanding posture and tells the dog you are someone to be respected.
Dogs become very confused when their owners’ words, expressions and tones don’t match. If you were to crouch down and call your dog using a happy voice but with a frown on your face and a stern look in your eye, he wouldn’t know what to do! Is he supposed to come or are you mad at him? If he does come, he’ll probably do it fearfully since frowns and stern eyes usually mean something unpleasant is in store! Since your signals are mixed, he can only guess at what you want or what will happen to him.
Many owners give commands in a questioning tone: "Barney, sit?" This tells the dog you’re not sure of yourself and don’t know exactly what you want him to do. If you don’t know, he won’t either! Others draw the word out into something that sounds soothing, sinister and questioning at the same time: "Barney, siiiiit?" The poor dog doesn’t know what in the world you’re trying to get across and might not respond at all!
To be most effective when training and communicating with your dog, your expression, eyes and tone of voice all must say the same thing. You need to use different expressions and tones for different situations and keep those signals consistent. When you tell your dog to do something, use a low-toned, firm, matter of fact voice. "Barney, sit!" Your facial expression should be neutral, neither smiling nor frowning, you should be standing up straight and your eyes should say "Do it!" This is as clear to the dog as it gets – he sees that you expect him to do as he’s told and if he understands the command, he will do it.
If he obeys, give him a huge smile and praise with a happy, cheerful voice. Let him know exactly how pleased you are with him. If he didn’t obey, give him a dirty look and drop your voice as low as you can to deliver a short but totally unmistakable "no."
Q: My dog loves to jump on people. I don’t mind if she jumps on me, but I really don’t want her to jump on others. I have heard lots of things to do to her when she jumps, but so far they only make her more crazy and have not worked. What can I do?
A: First, you have to teach your dog not to jump on you. Start with No Jumping 101. Take a treat firmly in your hand. Let your dog sniff, lick, and get all excited about the treat. Raise the treat so she cannot reach it. If she hasn’t already jumped, encourage her to do so. Let her jump, climb, bark, whine, and get very frustrated trying to get to the treat.
As soon as all four paws return to the floor, click and treat!
Repeat in different locations, with all kinds of body postures, and with various toys and treats; click and treat when her feet remain super-glued to the floor.
Next step: no jumping at all – no walking around or hopping up and down on hind legs; in other words, no doggie feet leave the ground. Paws are nailed to the floor!
Now it’s time to make the game more difficult. Work until you can pet your dog, attach a leash to her collar, and examine her while she sits or stands without her licking, wiggling, and sniffing. That’s a real challenge! When your dog never jumps on you and respects your hands and face while you are petting and grooming her, you are ready for …
No Jumping 102: Other people
Your biggest challenge will be training your friends and relatives to help. Dogs love silly people and your friends and relatives are all silly people to your dog.
Choose a person to approach the dog and repeat No Jumping 101. This shouldn’t take as long as it did with you. If your friend cannot get the timing right, you click and he can treat. Work with at least 10 other people until your dog thinks she’s got everyone trained to give her a treat when she keeps her feet on the floor!
No Jumping 103: hard core jumpers
There are some dogs that would like you to believe that they just can’t control themselves, that they are just toooo happyyyy. Don’t fall for the scam. If you have worked through No Jumping 101 and 102 and your "I’m so happy" dog is still mauling people, try the following.
Work inside with a crate or empty room handy. Ask a friend to help. Put a leash on the dog and ask your friend to approach. As soon as Dizzy starts to wind up to flail herself at her target, ask your friend to abruptly and disgustedly turn away.
Wait until Dizzy settles down and try again. Continue increasing the and or time until you get some semblance of control. When your friend can stand in front of Dizzy and remain in a vertical position, it’s time to try petting the dog.
Your friend may actually have to leave the room before the dog settles down. You both might have to leave, but only for 15 seconds or so. Use your imagination and common sense and see what works.
For real hard-core cases, you might have to gently hold the collar and silently guide the dog to the crate, put her in, and shut the door. After a few seconds, let her loose and start again. As soon as she starts blithering, put her back in the crate. Do not show any emotion during the crating process. Even the most dyed-in-the-wool slammers will catch on in a few repetitions. Your best friend will gain self-control so she can stay out with the rest of the gang.
Jumping up is fun for dogs. The trick is to have fun while teaching a pet to keep her feet on the floor. You will need a lot of patience and dedication to make this work, but if you use harsh methods, you still need dedication, you have probably already lost your patience, and you definitely won’t have as much fun.
Experience is a biggie. You and your dog need lots of experience in different situations and places. When you have time and your dog is up to the challenge, train through a few situations in the same place.
When a novel situation appears, don’t avoid it, exploit it. Work through it or at least through part of it. If this is not practical, remember the distraction so you can recreate it at home. Always remember to break things down into easy-to-learn pieces so your dog can succeed.
Experiment
Experiment with your voice to see which tones, pitches, and other variations your dog responds to. Teach him to come in different voices. If he has trouble with a voice, turn it into a game. Speak in the voice he doesn’t particularly like or respond to and follow it with silliness, treats, and toys. Soon he won’t mind your Jekyll and Hyde voices.
Don’t use the recall command when playing the voice game. If your dog is a real softy, use the weird voice for a fraction of a second before getting silly.
Experiment with different facial expressions as well.
Why go to this trouble? It may seem extreme, but when you are nervous or frightened, your voice and expression can change. These are the times your dog may hesitate to obey.
Consideration
While working through these wild and crazy recalls, be considerate of your dog. After all, he’s just a D.O.G. Don’t fry his little brain or scare him. End on a positive canine note.
You may not be satisfied, but make sure your dog is. Dogs are happy with very little, so stifle your goals and your ego and let a little be enough. Considerate training gives your dog confidence – confidence in what he does and confidence in you.
Remember, you are the bearer of all good doggie things and all good things come through you! Keep up the good work and one of these days before chasing something tempting, your miracle dog will stop, turn around, and ask, "Mother, may I?"
Every dog owner would like to have a happy, tongue-lolling, speedy recall.
However, you don’t see a great recall often because the secret of teaching a great recall seems elusive. But the truth is that there is no secret – it simply takes hard work, dedication, love, and mutual respect to create a great recall.
I say "create" because I consider a recall a work of living art. To get a dog to stop doing anything and everything it is doing and run back to you as if it can’t get there fast enough will make your heart skip a beat. Once you get a recall like this, you will never again have a dog that isn’t trained to that level.
We’re not going to teach "come" from a sit-stay or teach perfect square sit-in-front. Obedience competition recalls are set-ups and have nothing to do with real life.
When do you really want your dog to come to you? In my mind, he should come to save his life.
How do you feel when all you see are rear legs flying towards the street to get to the bunny on the other side? Pretty sick, huh? This is the time you pray that training time has been effective and shout out a very controlled "Come!"
Or you panic.
This is the time you want your dog to slide to a stop, wheel around to look at you and willingly leave whatever she was thinking about doing to run back to you – to see what Mom or Dad wants to do!
Sound impossible? It’s not, but don’t lie to yourself about how well you trained your dog to come. It’s your dog’s life you are gambling with. Be safe – be honest with yourself. If you haven’t put in daily time teaching your dog "come" from the first day you brought him home, you haven’t trained enough.
Now that I’ve burst your bubble and depressed you, let’s start with The Bare Necessities of a recall
Relationship
You must have a good relationship with your dog so he enjoys being with you. It’s not what you think is enjoyable, but what your dog thinks is enjoyable. He should feel completely safe and at ease when you are around. After all, you are the supreme bearer of all good doggie things.
So be honest; don’t get your hackles up, just answer the questions.
Have you ever called your dog to discipline, bathe, or do toenails?
Have you said "come" in a cranky, embarrassed tone of voice because she was flaunting your underwear on the front lawn for the neighbors to see?
If you can answer yes to any similar question, you have lots of work to do.
On the positive side, your dog thinks you are the supreme bearer of all great doggie things! You have everything at your disposal to create a great relationship with your dog – food, water, treats, petting, games, toys, playing with other dogs or people, shade, warmth, swimming, being silly, etc., etc. Use them all to show your dog she is wonderful, she is right, and she needs to depend on you for everything.
A strong bond of communication can be created with these tools – not just a one-way person-to-dog bond, but a dog-to-person bond as well.
"Come"
Your dog should love the word "come." When she hears the word, she should think "I can check out that squirrel later because I surely don’t want to miss what Mom’s doing!"
If "come" has already soured, you can always change the word and the attitude. I know an Old English Sheepdog who turned into a bounding bundle of fun when he heard "free beer"!
How can I get my dog to come when he's called?
Q: How can I get my dog to come when he's called? He won't listen to me at all! When I let him out he runs off and acts like he doesn't even hear me. I'm at the end of my rope what can I do?
A: I understand your frustration! Many people have the same problem with their dogs. "Come" is probably the most basic command every dog needs to learn. A dog that won't come when he's called is a danger to himself as well as a headache to his owner.
First, until your dog has been properly trained, do not let him run off leash even for a minute! Dogs aren't smart enough to look both ways before crossing the street. They have no idea that cars can kill them. Accidents happen in the briefest of moments and it only takes one mistake to lose your dog forever. If you love him, put his safety first and keep him on his leash!
Most puppies have a strong instinct to follow and stay close to their masters. They readily come when they're called. As they grow up, they start to think for themselves and become more independent. Busy exploring or playing, the dog ignores his owner's call. Why, he has better things to do!
Do you remember the first time this happened? What did you do about it? If you're like most people, you probably called to your dog over and over until the dog finally decided, in his own sweet time, to obey you. Did you know that you taught your dog a very important lesson that day? Without realizing it, you taught him that it was okay not to come when he was called! Don't worry, you can fix things by starting over from the beginning.
Well known author and trainer Mordecai Siegal says "No dog will run to a human if he has experienced something unpleasant for his trouble".To get your dog to come to you, this time and -every- time, you have to make it worth his while. "Come" needs to be the sweetest word your dog ever hears; it should always mean love, hugs and rewards. Never, ever call your dog to you to punish him, to give him a bath or for anything he might think is unpleasant. "Come" must always mean that something good will happen to him, something far better than whatever he's doing at the time."
For the first lessons, invite a friend or family member the dog loves. These lessons should take place in the house or within a fenced area. Both of you should crouch down on opposite sides of the room. Using a happy, loving, cheerful tone of voice, take turns calling the dog to you. If he doesn't want to pay attention, encourage him with whistles, funny noises, toys or extra special treats. When he reaches you, act like he's done the greatest thing in the whole world! Hug him, praise him, pet him, love him and reward him with treats. Bits of hot dog work very well!
Throughout the day, stop what you're doing for a minute and call your dog. Reward him handsomely when he comes. It doesn't matter if he's three feet away, in another room or a different part of the house. Call him and love him to death when he comes! Practice often and make coming when called the most enjoyable thing in your dog's life.
When your dog is coming happily to you the first time he hears you call, it's time to move your training outside where there are more distractions. This is very important: for now, keep your dog on a leash! You must be able to enforce the come command if your dog doesn't obey. Without a leash, you have no control over the dog and he knows it. Always use a leash until your dog is more reliable.
With a pocketful of treats, go for a walk with your dog on a loose leash. Using a cheerful voice, stop and call him to you. Praise him to the skies, give him a treat and hug him when he obeys. What if he doesn't come or pretends he doesn't hear you? Tug sharply on the leash and walk backwards, calling him merrily the whole time. Reward him generously when he reaches you even though you had to make him do it. Return to your walk, stopping periodically to call your dog.
As your dog improves, practice with a longer leash. You can buy "long lines" at a pet store or make your own using materials from the hardware store. Nylon roping and even clothesline works well. Let him explore, chase a stick or play with a ball, then stop and call him to you. If he doesn't come, tug on the line and run the other direction, calling "Come, Come, Come!" Let him chase you and when he reaches you, reward him with praise and hugs. Make the training a game and make him think that coming to you is a much better game than he could think up on his own!
When your dog will come each and every time, you can start working off leash but within a fenced area, the smaller the better at first. Do not trust him off leash in an unconfined area! Let him play, sniff, explore, then call him. He didn't come? Don't try to catch him, instead resort to trickery. My favorite method is to sit down right there on the ground and pretend to cry. If he doesn't hear you, cry louder, sob your heart out! He'll come running back to see what's the matter. Don't scold him for not obeying, just snap the leash back on and keep practicing. He's shown you he's not ready for freedom and needs to go back to the basics. Start his training over from the beginning and don't remove the leash again for at least a week.
"Sometimes when I let my dog out in the yard...."
Q: I've been doing what you said and my dog is much better now. But when I let him out in the yard, sometimes he still won't come when it's time for him to go back into the house. What can I do about that?
A: If you only call your dog when it's time to come in, he may think that "come" always means "the party's over." Under those circumstances, you might not come either! I like my dogs to learn that "come" means something really good will happen to them or that another new adventure may be about to begin. Throughout your training, use "come" to call him often just for loving and playing as well as when playtime's done and it's time to come in.
If you know your dog understands the command to come but doesn't respond when you call, don't waste time calling his name over and over. He'll just keep on ignoring you. In the process, he'll learn that it's okay to ignore you. Instead, go get your leash. Call him again using a happy, encouraging voice but only give the command twice, no more. He heard you the first time. If he doesn't respond, go and get him. When you catch up with him, don't scold or punish him. Just snap his leash on and matter of factly, go straight to the house. No punishment but no rewards either. Then start his training over again.
"I called my dog to punish her and now..."
Q: I caught my dog chewing up my shoes so I called her to me and spanked her. Now whenever I call her, she cowers and sometimes she even runs away. If she comes at all, she kind of slinks up to me. Why is she acting this way? I only punish her if she's done something wrong.
A:If someone called you and when you came they yelled at you, what would you think? You'd probably wish you'd run the other way instead, wouldn't you? The next time they called, you probably would run the other way! That's exactly what your dog is doing. When she hears you call, she doesn't know what she's going to find when she gets there "will I get a treat or will I get a spanking?" She certainly doesn't want a spanking so she's going to go the other direction just to be on the safe side.
No dog will come if it thinks there'll be something unpleasant when it gets there. That's why trainers always recommend that we should never, ever call a dog in order to punish it or make it do something it doesn't like. When you need to correct your dog, go to her, don't make her come to you. When it's time for a bath or a trip to the vet, don't call her to you go and get her instead. "Come" should always be a word that means joy, love, hugs and treats, never punishment or unpleasantness.
Q: Help! My Jack Russell Terrier is only eight months old but he’s already out of control. I can’t seem to teach him anything or make him do what he’s told. Heck, I can’t even get his attention most of the time! He won’t come when he’s called and I can’t trust him off leash. I took him to obedience class once but that didn’t make any difference. The instructor gave up on him. I’m at the end of my rope – is there anything I can do?
A: The qualities that make terriers so appealing – courage, boldness and a fun-loving spirit – can also make them difficult to live with. Unlike most breeds, terriers were bred to work independently of people. Retrievers, for example, instinctively know how to retrieve but they expect their people to tell them when, how and what to retrieve. Terriers, on the other hand, were intended to roam their owners’ property on their own, seeking out and killing rats and assorted vermin. They were expected to work by themselves without human intervention and make their own decisions. Many terriers, in fact, don’t see people as their "masters" at all but as nuisances that are interfere with their fun!
Terrier authority Pam Bishop of the Fox Terrier Network says that Jack Russells are actually fairly easy to train but that training must be done differently than with other breeds. She stresses that terriers just want to have fun – literally! The pursuit of fun is their main goal in life. Anything that prevents them from having a good time becomes an obstacle to be overcome. Being very smart and curious, they are able to figure things out quickly and are easily bored by standard obedience classes.
Along with their sharp, inquisitive minds, terriers were bred to have exceptional courage and persistence. They don’t back down to anything and that includes their owners! Pam says that it’s next to impossible to make a terrier do something it doesn’t want to, another handicap to standard training methods. They also have a remarkable (and frustrating!) ability, because of their keen hunting instincts, to key in on something and tune out everything else around them, including their owners’ commands.
Pam recommends that, for best results, a terrier should be well-socialized before starting obedience class. Take your dog daily for walks on leash outside of his own yard and property. Let him see, hear, investigate and get used to new sights and sounds. Walks make constructive use of your terrier’s endless supply of energy, too.
To successfully train a terrier, Pam says, training must be fast-paced, fun, and designed to take advantage of the dog’s natural intelligence and curiosity. They catch on quickly and become bored with repetition. Pam suggests keeping training sessions very short and changing the exercises around. Terriers love not knowing what’s coming next! They like excitement and the mental challenge of figuring out what you want. If you make it too easy, they’ll find something more interesting to do.
Likewise, terriers become bored at standard obedience classes waiting around while other dogs work. They like to be the center of attention and want to be "on" all the time. Being naturally domineering creatures, they often challenge other dogs whom they think are stealing their attention.
Use food treats liberally - most terriers are highly food-motivated. Rather than correct the dog for mistakes (which simply makes terriers angry and more stubborn), use positive motivation by rewarding them generously for what they’ve done right. For terriers, training -must- be fun or the dog will simply refuse to learn anything.
Pam reports that "clicker" training, a positive motivation method that inspires a dog to think, is quite successful with Jack Russells and other lively terriers. To find out more about clicker training, I recommend Karen Pryor’s book "Don't Shoot the Dog : The New Art of Teaching and Training".
Jack Russell owner Dean Williamson shares a few tips from his experience living with this breed as well as other terriers: Dean says that JRT’s are very pack-oriented and need a clear understanding of where they fit in their human family’s pecking order. Without firm rules to follow, they will put themselves in charge of your household. Crate training is essential to successfully living with a terrier, Dean says. Your JRT should sleep in his crate at night, not in your bed. At dinner time, it’s important that your family, and especially your children, finish their meal before the dog is fed.
If your dog begs or gets into mischief while the family eats, put him in his crate.
Both Dean and Pam remind owners that no matter how much training they do, their terriers will never be dependable off leash because of their deeply rooted hunting instincts and natural impulsiveness. Their instantaneous reaction to anything that looks like it should be chased or investigated causes them to completely forget their training. Instinct will always override their owners’ commands. Therefore, Pam says, a terrier owner should never depend on obedience training when the dog is in a potentially dangerous situation.
Dean stresses that active terriers need an exercise, play and obedience session every day to keep them manageable. He agrees with Pam that hitting or spanking a terrier just doesn’t work, it only makes them stubborn and aggressive. Instead, use psychology and remember their strongest motivation in life is to have fun – you must make it fun for them to do whatever it is you want!
Q: Help! Our one year old dog doesn’t seem to have any respect for us. He’s been to obedience class but he seldom obeys our commands. He’s always grabbing our hands or head butting us when he wants something. He’s become very demanding. He never seems to get enough attention even though we give him attention all the time. He even body slams us out of the way at the door so he can get outside first. He’s a very loving dog but we need to get him under control. He’s too big to be telling us what to do!
A: You’re absolutely right! It sounds like your dog has a dominance problem and is on his way toward becoming the leader of your family – his pack. He has also reached the age of adolescence where, similar to a teenaged child, he’s testing your limits. Now is an ideal time to nip these problems in the bud.
A dog’s social system has a pecking order. The leader of the pack is the "alpha." He (or she) gets the best of everything – the best food, the best place to sleep, the best toy, etc. The alpha also gets to be first in everything – he gets to eat first, to leave first and to get attention first. All the other dogs in the pack respect the alpha dog’s wishes. An alpha dog doesn’t ask for what he wants, he demands it. He lets you know in no uncertain terms that he wants his dinner, that he wants to go out, that he wants to play or be petted and that he wants these things right now.
Your family is your dog’s pack. Most dogs fit easily into the lower levels of their human pack’s pecking order and don’t make trouble. They do what they’re told and don’t challenge authority. Other dogs don’t fit in quite as well. Some are natural leaders, others are social climbers always looking for ways to get a little closer to the top of the family ladder. These dogs can become problems to an unsuspecting family that’s not aware of their natural pack instincts. Some families unknowingly encourage their dogs to take over the pack. They treat their dogs as equals, not as subordinates. They give them special privileges like being allowed to sleep on the bed or couch. They let them get away with disobeying commands. In a real dog pack, only the alpha dog would get this kind of treatment.
Dogs need – and want – leaders. They have an instinctive need to fit into a pack. They want the security of knowing their place and what’s expected of them. Most of them don’t want to be alpha – they want someone else to give orders and make decisions. But if his humans don’t provide that leadership, the dog will take over the role himself. To reclaim your family’s rightful place as leaders of the pack, your dog needs to learn how to be a subordinate, not an equal. He knew this once, as a baby puppy, because his mother taught him. She showed him very early in life that she was alpha and that he had to respect her. It’s time to refresh his memory!
Before you can remove your dog from his alpha position, you must become alpha and earn his respect. Alpha is an attitude. It involves confidence, dignity, intelligence, an air of authority. A dog can sense this attitude almost immediately – it’s how his mother acted toward him. Watch a good trainer or obedience instructor. They stand tall and use their voices and eyes to project the idea that they’re capable of getting what they want. They’re gentle but firm, loving but tough, all at the same time. Most dogs are immediately submissive towards this type of personality because they recognize and respect alpha when they see it.
Stand up straight with your shoulders back. Walk tall. Practice using a new tone of voice, one that’s deep and firm. Don’t ask your dog to do something – tell him. There’s a difference and he knows it! As alpha, you’re entitled to make the rules and give the orders. Your dog understands that instinctively.
Since your dog has been used to getting what he wants on demand, it’s likely to take more than just a change in your attitude to make him mind better. He’s been getting a free ride for a long time but you’re going to teach him that from now on, he has to earn what he gets. This will be a shock to his system at first but you’ll be surprised how quickly he’ll catch on and that he’ll actually become eager to please you.
Your dog already knows the command SIT. Now, every time your dog wants something – his dinner, a trip outside, a walk, some attention, anything – tell him (remember don’t ask him, tell him) to sit first. When he does, praise him with a "Good Boy!" then tell him OKAY and give him whatever it is he wants as a reward. If he refuses to sit, walk away and ignore him. No sit, no reward. If you don’t think he understands the command, work on his training some more. If he just doesn’t want to obey, ignore him – don’t give him what he wants or reward him in any fashion.
Make him sit before giving him his dinner, make him sit at the door before going outside, make him sit in front of you to be petted, make him sit before giving him his toy. If you normally leave food out for him all the time, stop. Go to a twice daily feeding and you decide what time of day he’ll be fed. Make him sit for his dinner. If he won’t obey the command – no dinner. Walk away and ignore him. Bring the food out later and tell him again to sit. If he understands the command, don’t tell him more than once. He heard you the first time. Give commands from a standing position and use a deep, firm tone of voice. To keep him from body-slamming you at the doorway, put a leash on him. Make him sit and wait while you open the door and give him permission – OKAY! – to go out.
Alpha dogs are used to being fussed over. In a real dog pack, subordinate dogs are forever touching, licking and grooming the alpha dog. It’s a show of respect and submission. Until your dog’s attitude has improved, cut down on the amount of cuddling he gets. When he wants attention, make him sit first, give him a few kind words and pats, then stop. Go back to whatever you were doing and ignore him. If he pesters you, tell him NO! in a firm voice and ignore him some more. Pet him when you want to, not just because he wants you to. Also, don’t get down on the floor or on your knees to pet your dog. That, too, is a show of submission. Give praise, petting and rewards from a position that’s higher than the dog.
Don’t allow wrestling or rough-housing with your dog. These games encourage dogs to dominate people physically. In a dog pack or in a litter, these games are more than just playing – they help to establish pack order based on physical strength. Your dog is already stronger and quicker than you are. Rough, physical games prove that to him.
Where does your dog sleep? Not in your bedroom and especially not on your bed! Your bedroom is a special place – it’s your den. An alpha dog thinks he has a right to sleep in your den because he considers himself your equal. Until your dog’s alpha problems are fully under control, the bedroom should be off-limits. The same goes for sleeping on furniture. If you can’t keep him off the couch without a fight, deny him access to the room.
If your alpha program is successful, your dog should start looking to you for directions and permission. He’ll show an eagerness to please. Watch how your dog approaches and greets you. Does he come to you "standing tall," with his head and ears held high and erect? It may look impressive and proud but it means he’s still alpha and you still have problems! A dog that accepts humans as superiors will approach you with his head slightly lowered and his ears back or off to the sides. He’ll "shrink" his whole body a little in a show of submission. Watch how he greets all the members of the family. If he displays this submissive posture to some of them, but not others, those are the ones who need to work harder on their own alpha techniques.
Once your dog has begun to accept this new way of life and his new position in the family, you should take him through another obedience course with a qualified trainer. Obedience training is a lifelong process. Obedience commands need to be practiced and incorporated into your daily life. In a dog pack, the alpha animal uses occasional reminders to reinforce his authority. Certain commands, like DOWN/STAY, are especially effective reminders of a dog’s place in the family pack order and who’s really in charge here. A well-trained dog that’s secure in his place within the family pack is comfortable and confident. He knows what’s expected of him. He knows his limits and who his leaders are. He’s free to be your loving companion and not your boss!
In the old days, dog owners "housebroke" their dogs, pushed their noses in mistakes, and screamed in rage when the pooch made a mistake on the rug again. Today we're more enlightened. Here are some hints for house training your dog:
First, buy a puppy from a breeder who has already started housetraining by putting the puppies outside every morning and after meals and praising when they relieve themselves. It's also helpful if the breeder has done some crate training as well. Puppies raised in wire cages in commercial kennels and shipped to pet stores have nowhere to relieve themselves except their living quarters, a habit that is difficult to overcome.
Buy a crate and a baby gate or two to keep the puppy confined when you cannot watch him. If the puppy is kept in the kitchen, he can't pee on the rug in the living room, a simple fact that escapes many pet owners caught in the midst of a housetraining debacle.
Feed a dry food, preferably the brand used by the breeder. If that food is unavailable, get about 10 pounds from the breeder and gradually switch to a locally-available brand. Begin with a mix of about three-quarters of the original food and gradually increase the volume of the new food until the pup is eating only the new food. Avoid canned food during housetraining. The high water content puts extra pressure on the bladder and the color enhancer sodium nitrite can act as a diuretic, increasing the frequency of urination. Iron oxide, another color enhancer in canned foods, can stain the carpet if the pup has an accident.
Confine the puppy to rooms with tile or other washable flooring so mistakes don't ruin carpets.
Feed on a schedule and take the puppy outside to the appropriate relief spot immediately after eating.
Don't play with the pup until he relieves himself..
If he doesn't urinate and defecate within 10 minutes, bring him inside and place him in his crate for 10-15 minutes, then try again. Continue this routine until he is successful, and then praise him as if he just won a blue ribbon.
Take him out on a leash to his bathroom spot so he learns to relieve himself under your control.
Puppies do not soil the house out of spite or stupidness; they soil the house because they have not been taught to do otherwise. If the puppy does urinate or defecate inside, he should immediately be taken outside to the appropriate spot. (Keep a leash near each door to the house for easy access just in case.)
Keep the bathroom spot clean by picking up feces every day. Cleanliness prevents worms and spread of intestinal viruses and infections and cuts down on smell that might bother the neighbors.
Realize that a puppy should have a schedule, that he should be taken to his outside relief spot last thing at night and first thing in the morning as well as after meals and naps, and that he should be praised when he does his duty. When taking the puppy to his outdoor spot, don't play with him or allow the children to do so. First things first. If the pup does not relieve himself, put him in the crate for a few minutes, then try again. Most puppies will not soil in their crates if they can possibly help it.
Failures in housetraining are human mistakes, not puppy errors. The puppy does not understand that carpets are for walking, not bowel relief. If eight-year-old Steve is told to take Sam outside after the pup finishes his dinner and Steve is busy watching television and says "in a minute" or ignores the request altogether, and if Sam then dumps on the floor, it is not the puppy's fault. It is also not the child's fault. Mom or Dad tried a shortcut by making the child responsible for the dog's behavior and that never works.
Never punish for mistakes. Once you're fairly confident that the puppy understands where to relieve himself, scold him for mistakes, but don't spank, scream, or push his nose in the mess. The spot should be cleaned up, preferably with an enzyme odor eliminator. (If the odor is left untended, the dog will find it again, even if people cannot detect any smell.)
If you don't have the time or patience for the task of housetraining, buy, rescue or adopt a dog from a shelter that is already housetrained. Most puppies learn fairly quickly (especially when compared to children who can take two years or more to graduate from diapers to underwear) to whine or scratch at the door when they need to go out. Easy-to-train pups can be reliable in the house at around four months of age; difficult pups may take a month or two longer.
If a puppy reaches four or five months of age and is still having regular accidents in the house, make sure he does not have a bladder infection, intestinal parasites, or other medical reason for his failure to signal that he needs to go outside. Then redouble the efforts to teach him what you want him to know.
Preventing "accidents" instead of waiting for accidents to happen.
Introduction
This method of housetraining is focused on preventing "accidents" instead of waiting for accidents to happen. The goal is to make it easy for the puppy to do the right thing in the first place. Training in this way is faster and more effective than punishing the dog for mistakes. YOU play the most important part in the success or failure of this method — you must be patient, determined and reliable for it to work. If you already own an adult dog with housetraining problems, you can use this method to start fresh just as you would with a puppy.
This method also requires the use of a dog crate or at least, a small, confined area for the pup to stay in when he can't be supervised. A crate isn't cruel! It's your dog's own private room where he can rest and stay safe, secure and out of trouble. Just like a small child, your puppy needs to be protected from hurting himself and destroying your furniture. A crate will make the job so much easier!
The first few weeks of owning a puppy are some of the hardest and most important. Spending extra time and effort now will pay off in a big way. Don't blame the puppy if you're lazy!
Before you start, here are some essential housetraining facts:
Adult dogs can be housebroken in the same way as puppies.
Puppies have limited bladder control.
Dogs & puppies like to be clean and to sleep in a clean area.
All dogs do best when kept to a routine schedule.
Dogs have to go poddy when...
they wake up in the morning or after a nap
within 1/2 hour after eating
before they go to sleep
If a dog and especially a puppy is not allowed to relieve itself at those times, it will most likely have an accident. Don't wait for the dog to "tell" you that it has to go out. Just assume that he does and put him outside.
Housetraining baby puppies
Baby puppies, under three months of age, have limited bladder control and reflexes. They usually don't know they're going to "go" until the moment they do! It's not realistic to expect them to tell you ahead of time. If you're observant, you'll see that a puppy who's looking for a place to go poddy will suddenly circle about while sniffing the floor. The sniffing is instinct — he's looking for a place that's already been used. If he can't find one, he'll start one! By preventing accidents in the house, you'll teach him that the only appropriate bathroom is the one outside!
Ideally, you're reading this before you've brought your new puppy home. If you already have your puppy, just pick up the schedule at an appropriate place.
Set up a dog crate or small, confined area (the smaller the better.) Using a dog crate will be more effective. The size of the crate is important — if it's too large, the puppy will have room to use one end as a bathroom. If you've bought a crate for him to "grow into," you can also get dividers to reduce the inner space while he's small. If he must be left alone while you're at work, then a larger crate is okay. Put a stack of newspapers at one end for him to use when you can't be home to let him out.
Also in the crate should be a water dish (you can get one that attaches to the side of the crate and is harder to spill), sleeping pad and toys. Put the crate where he isn't shut away from the family. If you're using a confined area instead, a baby gate across the doorway is preferable to closing the door and isolating your puppy.
Your puppy might not like the crate at first. Don't give in to his complaining or tantrums! If you're sure he isn't hungry or has to go poddy, ignore his yowling. If he gets really obnoxious, reach inside the crate, give him a little shake by the scruff of his neck and say NO in a deep, stern voice. Eventually he'll settle down and sleep which is what crates are for! If you give a tempting treat every time you put the dog in his crate, he'll soon look forward to going in.
The crate is intended to be his sleeping and feeding place and is where he should be when you can't keep a close eye on him. If you give him the run of the house at this age, you can expect accidents! Dogs instinctively keep their sleeping areas clean. If you've allowed him to go poddy when he needs to, he won't dirty his crate if he can help it. Once he's developed better control, he won't need the newspapers unless you're going to be gone all day. Change the papers several times a day if they've been soiled.
Puppy's first night home
Get off on the right foot at the beginning! Carry the puppy from your car to the yard. Set him on the grass and let him stay there until he potties. When he does, tell him how wonderful he is! After bringing the pup inside, you can play with him for an hour. Plan on taking the puppy outside every two hours (at least) while he's awake. Don't wait for him to tell you that he has to go!
Feed the puppy his supper in his crate. Don't let him out for half an hour and when you do, carry him outside to potty before you do anything else. Wait for him to have a bowel movement before bringing him back in. Some pups get their jobs done quickly, others may take half an hour.
If he's being slow, walk around the yard encouraging him to follow you. Walking tends to get things moving, so to speak!
Always take the puppy outside first thing when you let him out of the crate and always CARRY the puppy to the door!! This is important. Puppies seem to have a reflex peeing action that takes affect the moment they step out of the crate onto your carpeting. If you let him walk to the door, he'll probably have an accident before he gets there. Part of this training method is psychological — you want the puppy to feel grass under his feet when he goes to the bathroom, not your carpeting!
After another short play period, take the pup outside before bedtime, then tuck him into his crate for the night. If he cries during the night, he probably has to go out. Carry him outside to potty, then put him back in the crate with a minimum of cuddling. If you play with him, he might decide he doesn't want to go back to sleep! Puppies usually sleep through the night within a few days.
Daytime schedule
Establish a regular schedule of potty trips and feedings. This helps you to control the times he has to go out and prevent accidents in the house. First thing in the morning — before you have your coffee — carry the puppy outside. He can then come in and play for an hour. Feed breakfast in the crate and don't let him out again for a half hour. Then carry him back outside for potty. Puppies usually have a bowel movement after each meal so give him time to accomplish it.
Now he can have another inside playtime for an hour or so. Don't give him free run of the house, use baby gates or close doors to keep him out of rooms he shouldn't go in. (Puppies are notorious for finding out of the way corners to have accidents in — keep him in an area where you can watch him). If you give him too much freedom too soon, he'll probably make a mistake. After playtime, take him outside again then tuck him into his crate for a nap.
For the first month or so, you'll be feeding three or four meals per day. Repeat the same procedure throughout the day: potty outside first thing in the morning, one hour playtime, potty, meal in crate, potty, playtime, potty, nap, potty, playtime, meal, etc. The playtimes can be lengthened as the puppy gets older and is more reliable. Eventually the puppy will be letting you know when he needs to go out but remember — if you ignore his request or don't move quickly he'll have an accident!
I know this sounds like a lot of work and it is! The results of all this runnin' in and out will pay off in a well-housebroken puppy and clean carpets. Keep in mind that some breeds are easier to housetrain than others and how the puppy was raised before it came to you has an affect, too. Pet store puppies who were allowed to use wire-bottom crates have less inclination to keep their crates clean. Puppies that were raised in garages or other large areas where they could "go" wherever will also be a little more difficult. Don't give up though - you can train them, it will just take a little longer.
A word about paper-training: It seems harmless to leave papers about "just in case" and for us who work all day, it's a necessity. However, paper-training your pup will make the overall job of housetraining that much harder and take longer. By only allowing the pup to relieve itself outside, you're teaching it that it's not acceptable to use the house. Using newspapers will override this training. Also, be aware that many puppies get the notion that going potty NEAR the papers is as good as going ON them! If you must use newspapers when you're gone, keep to the regular housetraining schedule when you're at home. Get the puppy outside often enough and don't leave papers out "just in case."
Keep your dog's yard picked up and free of old stools. Many dogs choose an area to use as a bathroom. If left to become filthy, they'll refuse to use it and do their business in the house instead! If your dog has to be tied up when he's outside, keeping the area clean is even more critical. If you could only move about in a small area, you wouldn't want to lie next to the toilet, would you? Picking up stools helps you keep tabs on your dog's health as well. Stools should be firm and fairly dry. Loose, sloppy stools can be an indication of worms, health problems, stress or digestive upset.
Housetraining older dogs
You can use a modified puppy schedule to train an unhousetrained dog or one that's having housetraining problems. Start from the beginning just like a puppy, use a crate and put them on a schedule. An older dog can be expected to control itself for longer periods provided you take it outside at critical times — first thing in the morning, after meals and last thing at night. Until they're reliable, get them outside every three-to-four hours in between those times.
Adopted older dogs that have always had freedom may be unwilling to have a bowel movement when on a leash. You can either walk them longer or keep them confined until they really gotta go. Just like a puppy, don't give them the run of the house and keep them in a crate or small area if you can't supervise them. You can give them more freedom as they become more reliable.
What to do if the puppy has an accident
Remember, this method of housetraining is based on PREVENTING accidents. By faithfully taking the dog out often enough, you'll get faster results than if you discipline the puppy after the accident has already happened. If you puppy makes a mistake because you didn't get him out when you should have — it's not his fault!
If you catch the pup in the act, stay calm. Holler NO while you scoop the puppy up immediately - don't wait for him to stop piddling - and carry him outside to an area he's used before. As you set him on the ground, tell him "THIS IS WHERE YOU GO PODDY!" and praise him as he finishes the job. Leave him out a few more minutes to make sure he's done before bringing him back in.
This is a little trickier with an adult dog especially if he's new to you and you don't know how he'll react to being grabbed and thrust outside. Holler NO and put a leash on to take him out and show him where the bathroom is. Make a point of getting the dog out more often in the future!
ANY other corrections such as rubbing his nose in it, smacking with newspapers, yelling, beating or slapping only confuse and scare the dog. If you come across an "old" accident, it really doesn't pay to get too excited about it. Dogs aren't smart enough to connect a past act with your present anger and he won't understand what you're so mad about. He'll act guilty but it's only because he knows you're mad at him. He has no real idea why. Point the spot out to him and say "WHAT IS THIS?" but that should be limit of your correction.
Keep in mind that health problems, changes in diet and emotional upsets (moving to a new home, adding a new pet or family member, etc.) can cause temporary lapses in housetraining. Diabetes in adult dogs and urinary tract infections in both puppies and adults can cause dogs to have to urinate more often. Urinary infections in young female puppies are common. A symptom is frequent squatting with little urine release. If you suspect a physical problem, please take your dog for an examination.
Sudden changes in dog food brands or overindulgence in treats or table scraps can cause diarrhea. Dogs don't need much variety in their diets so you're not harming yours by staying to one brand of food. If you make a change, do it gradually by mixing a little of the new food with the old, gradually increasing the amount of new food every day. A sudden change of water can cause digestive upset, too. If you're moving or traveling, take along a couple gallons of "home" water to mix with the new. Distilled water from the grocery store can also be used.
Cleaning up accidents
If you've worked hard with this training method, you won't have many! Put your puppy (or adult dog) away out of sight while you clean up a puddle. Dog mothers clean up after their babies but you don't want your puppy to think that YOU do, too! Clean up on linoleum is self-explanatory. On carpeting, get lots of paper towel and continue blotting with fresh paper until you've lifted as much liquid as possible.
There are several home-made and commercially available "odor killers" that are helpful. In a pinch, plain white vinegar will work to help neutralize the odor and the ammonia in the urine. (Don't use a cleaner with ammonia - it'll make it worse!) Sprinkle baking soda on the spot to soak up moisture and to help neutralize odor, vacuum when dry. At the pet store, you can find a good selection of products that may be more effective. A diarrhea stain on carpeting or upholstery can be lifted with a gentle solution of lukewarm water, dishwashing soap and white vinegar.
Puppies are attracted to urine odors and their noses are much better than ours! Even when using a commercial odor killer, a teeny residue will be left behind that our dogs can smell. Keep an eye on that spot in the future! This remarkable scenting ability does have an advantage — if you must paper-train your dog and he doesn't know what newspapers are for yet, "house-breaking pads" are available at your pet store. They are treated with a mild attractive odor (too weak for us to smell), so your puppy will gladly use them!
Advice for owners of male dogs
Your male puppy will begin to lift his leg between four and nine months of age, a sign of the activation of his sexual drive and instinct to "mark" territory. This is a perfect age to neuter your dog and avoid the unwanted behaviors that accompany sexual maturity — marking in inappropriate places, fighting and aggression toward other male dogs. Intact (un-neutered) males will mark any upright object and are especially hard on your shrubbery and trees. Some males will also mark inside the house, particularly if another dog comes to visit or if you're visiting in someone else's home. If you use your male for breeding, you can expect this behavior to get worse. Neutering your dog will protect his health, help him to live longer and be a better pet along with improving his house manners!
Understanding dog bites: how they occur and how how to prevent them
This article by Vicki DeGruy, originally published in Dog Owner's Guide, was the winner of a 1993 Dog Writer's Association of America Maxwell award for best article in a canine newspaper.
Question: I'd like to get a medium to large breed dog for my family but I'm worried. I've heard so many stories about dogs biting children. How can I be sure that it will be safe for my kids?
Answer: You have good reason to be concerned. Statistics show that most dog bites causing serious injury involve medium to large sized dogs and children under the age of five years. The dog is usually known to the child or is the family's pet.
To understand how these bites occur, what causes them and how to prevent them, a little education in the nature of dogs and the nature of small children is in order.
A dog's temperament is first inherited, then modified by events in his life and proper training. Some breeds and certain bloodlines within breeds are friendlier, more tolerant and more adaptable to training because they were bred to be that way. A responsible breeder wisely puts emphasis on good temperament when selecting breeding stock. Breeders without adequate knowledge of dog behavior may not understand what a correct temperament is and use unsuitable dogs for breeding.
Unscrupulous breeders sometimes deliberately breed dogs with poor temperaments. There are some dogs, just like there are some humans, that are mentally disturbed or have an illness or physical defect that affects their behavior. A dog's basic temperament, instincts and training have the biggest effects on how that dog reacts to the world around him and his levels of tolerance.
Very few bites happen without provocation -- but the provocation may exist only in the dog's mind! We need to realize that dogs are not little people in furry costumes. They don't think in the same way that we do. They look at the world around them with a different perspective. Most of their actions are instinctive. A dog will react to situations according to what his instincts tell him unless these instincts are overridden by the consistent training and socialization he needs to receive from his owner throughout his life.
Here is one of the most commonly reported scenarios in a bite case: A very young child sees a pretty dog he'd like to pet. The dog may not want to be petted. The dog's first instinctive reaction is show his displeasure by giving a warning -- growling. The growl means that something more unpleasant will follow if the warning isn't heeded.
The type and number of warnings given can vary. Many dogs faced with a child like this would just walk away. Walking away can be considered a warning. If the child keeps trying to pet the dog, a sterner warning, usually a growl, will follow. Some warnings are more subtle -- a stiffening of the body, for example. Few dogs bite without giving some indication beforehand.
Small children (and some adults) don't recognize a warning when they see or hear one. A very young child (under age six) doesn't know what a growl means. What may be obvious to an adult isn't understood by the child. The child continues to pet or follow after the dog even though the dog has now clearly told him what will happen if he doesn't stop.
Dogs instinctively set up an invisible "fight or flight" boundary around themselves. The size of this boundary depends on his level of confidence and tolerance. A fearful dog will give itself a wider area than a more stable one. When someone who the dog perceives as threatening or unwelcome enters that area, the dog has two choices -- it can run away or it can defend itself. If it feels that it can't run away, it will fight instead, no matter how afraid it might be. Some dogs will choose to fight first, rather than run.
A small child that's petting or hugging a dog has already intruded well within the dog's flight or fight boundary, the dog's safety zone. If the dog has tried to leave or has issued a warning with no response from the child, the dog (in his mind) has no other recourse -- he bites. This is normal, instinctive behavior -- to the dog. He is responding to what he perceives as a threat and is doing what his instincts tell him to. Remember that dogs don't think in the same way that people do. A child's innocent action, petting the dog, can be provocation for a bite when seen through the eyes of the dog.
There are other circumstances that can provoke a dog to bite a child. Running, playing, screaming kids can trigger an instinctive predator-prey reaction in some dogs. Children who rough house and wrestle with dogs unknowingly encourage them to use their teeth. Dogs equate this kind of play with littermates or other dogs where using teeth is allowed. Startling a sleeping dog or petting him when he's eating can also provoke a bite.
What can be done to prevent dogs from biting children? I feel that, first, it's essential to understand that almost any dog will bite under the right circumstances. Second, a dog is a dog, an animal whose behavior isn't the same as humans and can't always be predicted with 100 percent accuracy, no matter how friendly or reliable he is.
Obedience training and socialization are absolute musts for a dog who'll be spending time with children. Remember that a dog will act according to his instincts if he doesn't receive proper training or if that training isn't kept up through regular practice. The dog needs to be taught to obey commands under all conditions no matter how distracting. Just as responding to the command to "come" could save the dog's life someday, an immediate response to the command "leave it!" could save a child from serious injury.
Just as children need to be taught how to be well-behaved around other people, they need to be taught to be well-behaved and respectful around animals. They need to learn what kinds of games are appropriate, how to touch the dog properly, how to interpret the dog's body language and when the dog is not to be disturbed. When they're old enough to understand, kids should be involved in the training process. They should learn to give the dog commands and be able to enforce them.
Adult supervision is essential! Small children should never, ever be left alone with any dog, no matter how reliable the dog has been before. A responsible adult needs to be on the scene to prevent any aggressive behavior by the dog and to keep the child from putting him or herself in danger. Telling the toddler to stay away from the dog isn't enough! Remember that young children don't recognize when they may in trouble. It's up to the adult to keep them safe from the dog and to keep the dog safe from the children. I can't stress enough that adult supervision around children and dogs is absolutely critical! If you can't be right there to handle whatever might come up or if you have any doubt about the dog's behavior around children, the dog should be put away out of reach of the kids.
Almost all of us would agree that it would be nice for our children to grow up with a dog. Kids and dogs are wonderful, almost an American tradition. If you're thinking of getting a dog for the children or already have one, here are some guidelines: Consider postponing the purchase of a dog, especially a large one, until your children are at least six years old.
Take your time when looking for a dog. Do your homework. Learn the differences in the various breeds and choose one best suited to your lifestyle and experience.
Be honest with yourself about the amount of time and work you're willing to put into a dog. If you don't have time to raise and train the dog properly, don't get one.
Buy your dog from a reputable, responsible breeder who puts priority on good temperament and health and consistently produces dogs that excel in those areas. Choose a breeder who's experienced and willing to guide and advise you about care and training throughout the dog's life.
Train and socialize your dog properly! Get help if you run into problems. Don't fool yourself into thinking the dog will "outgrow" it or that the problem will go away on its own.
Teach your children how to behave correctly and safely around animals and to respect them.
If your children are too young to understand, it will be up to you to physically supervise them and protect them from potential harm. Don't take chances with their safety! If you can't be right there to take care of a problem or if you can't control your dog or your child -- put the dog away.
Remember that what your dog tolerates from your own children may not be tolerated from someone else's. You need to take extra safety precautions when other children visit and make sure that the children obey your ground rules.
Never, ever leave a child alone with any dog, no matter how harmless the dog seems.
Kids and dogs are wonderful together -- when adults use common sense and put safety first.
The depth and breadth of canine learning pales in comparison with 13 years of schooling for human children, but it is as crucial for a successful family life. A dog that does not sit, come, or stay on command is a dog with great potential to become a family pest and a neighborhood nuisance — or worse.
Obedience training is not to teach dogs to do tricks or competition exercises, it's to train dogs to be obedient, to do what they're told to do. It covers a wide range of lessons a dog can learn, including tricks, family manners, show ring exercises, and skills demonstrations. Sniffing dogs, service dogs for handicapped owners, search and rescue dogs, sled and carting dogs, hunting dogs -- all carry their obedience training to the highest degree. They have been trained to obey an unusual set of commands that increase their value as helpers to man.
Canine senses and learning styles
Canis lupus familiaris — the domestic dog — is a different species than Homo sapiens — man, woman, and child. We are taller, have opposable thumbs, can communicate with words, and have a sense of time; Baron is shorter, has more powerful senses of hearing and smell, and gets around much faster on his four legs. These obvious differences are more than physical — they influence the way the dog learns as well as they way he looks.
Things sure look different from a dog's eye view. As a predator, the dog has binocular vision, but his eyesight is more attuned to movement than details. His field of vision is cluttered with objects that are between a few inches and a few feet tall, objects such as chair and table legs, kitchen cabinets and appliances, doors he cannot open, wastebaskets, laundry baskets, bed frames, and bookshelves. The dog's limited field of vision can be a help or hindrance in training; you must appreciate it to decide which it will be.
Stormy's moderate sense of taste is dwarfed by her ability to use her nose and ears. She can smell a treat in your pocket, find an odoriferous sock, or locate some vile-smelling stuff to roll in with scarcely a moment's notice. She can hear a refrigerator door opening or a can opener working, and she can tune out the most frantic calls and commands at her pleasure. Her senses of smell and hearing can be used to advantage or become maddening distractions in training.
Fluffy's sense of touch can be a major player in her learning style if she is not accustomed to walking on a variety of surfaces, if she startles at the touch of strangers, or if she is so insecure that she leans on Mom's leg during training class.
Dogs do communicate, but they do so in a foreign language. Their barks, roars, howls, whimpers, whines, and growls can be distinguished and understood with a little effort. Some dogs are very vocal; they burble and roar and woo-woo as a greeting, an attention-getter, a mood-indicator, and an expression of joy. Owners must learn the difference between these "words" and "songs" and the growls that indicate dominance or aggression and the "chatter" that accompanies stress.
Like children, dogs are eager to learn. They may not want to learn what you prefer to teach, but they will learn something from every lesson you give — even when you are not trying to teach them anything.
Along with species' differences in learning style, dog owners have to contend with breed differences and individual differences. It is no accident that the top obedience dogs come from the herding and sporting groups, the conglomerations of breeds developed to work with man and obey his signals. It is also no accident that the most difficult dogs to train are the independent breeds of the hound and working groups, for they were bred to think on their own and they are easily bored by repetitive instruction. However, although Border Collies and Shelties and Golden Retrievers are excellent competition dogs, every Border Collie, Sheltie, and Golden presents an individual challenge to the trainer.
Puppy Kindergarten
School for puppies begins the morning after they join your household. An eight-week-old puppy can quickly learn to sit for his food or a treat, walk on a leash without pulling, and come when called without formal classes. However, unless the household is full of dogs and kids coming and going at all hours, the puppy will not get his critical socialization at home.
Most clubs and training schools offer a puppy kindergarten class that fulfills two goals: helping the owner understand the puppy and exposing the puppy to the world. Puppies should not be subject to regimented lessons in these classes but should learn basic commands, play a bit with other puppies, and learn how to behave in a friendly and stimulating community.
Many veterinarians prefer that clients keep their puppies at home at least to the age of three months so that vaccinations have a chance to protect them from distemper and other diseases, so they should not be enrolled in a class before that age.
Elementary Obedience
This is where the work begins. Up till now, training has been a game for Charger — the challenge is to keep it that way as the pup grows more and more independent. Some of the fun wears thin in the wake of chewed socks, soiled carpet, and adolescent dares, but if you can get through these "teenage" years, you'll have the basic foundation of a lasting relationship.
Persistent and consistent practice, a sense of humor, flexibility, and a thick skin are necessary to teach manners to a growing puppy or young adult dog.
A lifetime commitment
Learning for all animals is a lifetime commitment. Just as education for humans does not end with a high school diploma or a college degree, so the graduation certificate after eight weeks of training class does not end Flash's brush with scholarship. Dogs learn constantly, but they may not be learning the things you planned to teach.
In the old days — even a generation ago — many dogs were allowed to come and go as they pleased. Suburbs were less crowded, no one ever heard of neighborhood covenants that limited pets and fences, pooper-scooper laws were few and far between, and litigation was the exception rather than the rule. A dog that didn't want to be bothered by the kids could explore the neighborhood instead; today, he has nowhere to go. A dog that was out of sight was also out of mind; today a dog that is out of sight must be constantly in mind — if he's not the victim of an accident, he could bite someone who chased or teased him, scare someone who is afraid of dogs, get picked up by the dog warden, join another household by choice or default, destroy the neighbors garden, torment other dogs or cats, all activities that can result in injuries, lawsuits, financial loss, or grief.
Today it is a challenge to keep dogs at home, especially since the canine penchant for digging, disobeying, making noise, soiling yards, wearing paths in the lawn, escaping through open doors, and other inconvenient habits put a damper on the fun of owning a pet. Obedience training is the only way to ameliorate the impact of these annoying canine activities.
Dogs are pack animals. If they are not taught from an early age that humans are the pack leaders, they will jockey to gain that position for themselves — not because they are necessarily bullies, but because nature abhors a vacuum. If you don't fill the slot, Rambo will; if you don't do what's necessary to hang on to the job, Rambo will take over, inch by inch.
So, when you pack the kids off to school this year, make sure to take time for Ranger's education as well. Puppy kindergarten, basic obedience, a refresher course — all are tools to help build the best relationship possible with the family pet. Tuition is modest, supplies are minimal, and the rewards are immeasurable.
Lots of dogs have no manners, and their owners are at a loss as to how to teach them manners. So these hapless folks frequently end up hollering at poor Misty or smacking Buster on the butt with an open palm or a newspaper. Even worse, when Rambo doesn't shape up, he's banished to the basement or the backyard to live his days in solitude, or he's taken to the pound because "we just can't deal with him any more."
Obedience training would have prevented many of these problems and can help solve the bad behaviors that exist. Many people think that obedience training is something that is done to a dog to make it perform some artificial activity on command. But if we turn the words around, we'll be closer to a real definition: Obedience training is to train dogs to be obedient, to obey anything and everything they're told to do. It covers a wide range of lessons a dog can learn, including tricks, family manners, show ring exercises, and skills demonstrations. Sniffing dogs, service dogs for handicapped owners, search and rescue dogs, sled and carting dogs, hunting dogs -- all carry their obedience training to the highest degree. They have been trained to obey an unusual set of commands that increase their value as helpers to man.
Training would be a cinch if dogs spoke the same language that people speak. But, alas, 'tis not so. Dogs have their own attitudes, voice and body language, and mindset. They can be stubborn, dominant, submissive, or fearful, characteristics that can make them difficult to train.
Training techniques and equipment
Training can be accomplished at home, in an obedience class, or with a private trainer. It requires patience, a collar, a leash, a sense of humor, patience, and an understanding of dog behavior. That understanding can come from one or more of the many excellent books written about training companion dogs or from an obedience instructor or dog trainer.
Consistency is important in dog training. For example, if Ruffie was allowed to sit on the sofa yesterday and is yelled at for joining Aunt Florence on the sofa today, she'll be confused. It's better to teach her "up" and "off" so she'll climb on the furniture only when invited. If Mom says that Spot gets only dog food and treats, and the kids feed him from the table, he'll learn to beg and ultimately to steal in spite of Mom's efforts. Then, when he feasts on the roast, he's really in the doghouse for doing something he's actually been "trained" to do.
Training should be fun. Every training session should be punctuated with games, praise, and hugging. Buster should look forward to each session, just as he looks forward to his daily exercise. Every exercise should be useful at home. The dog should learn to sit on command and be conditioned to sit before going through a doorway, getting in or out of the car, before getting his dinner or a treat, and before getting petted by strangers or visitors. A sitting dog cannot knock a bowl of food out of your hand, lunge through a narrow opening in the door, jump out of the car before you clip on the leash, and so on.
The dog should learn to lie down so he won't beg at the table or bother the kids at play and will ride quietly in the car, etc. He should learn to stand still so he can be groomed or examined by the veterinarian. He should learn to walk on a leash without pulling; allow his feet, ears, and teeth to be handled; and come when he's called, wherever or whenever.
Add a few tricks to the repertoire for fun and deal with the problems as they arise, and you'll have a well-mannered pet.
How to choose an obedience instructor or club
Most people do not know how to train their dog, especially if the dog's personality and attitude differs from their own. And most dogs present some kind of training problem. Some do not respond to tenderness and coaxing, and others melt at a firm tone of voice. Some are dominant and require strength of muscle as well as strength of will, and others are eager to please. Some are bright and quick, and others are, well, slow learners.
Not all instructors understand the differences either: Here's what happened with a puppy in one obedience class:
The puppy lunged at another dog in the class, growling. The instructor smacked the puppy hard on the muzzle. The puppy growled and lunged at the next dog, and the instructor smacked it again. The justification? If your dog lunges at someone, you can get sued. The puppy in question is a fear-biter, a timid dog that is easily provoked to attack. The technique for dealing with a fear biter has nothing to do with smacking the dog in the muzzle.
There's never a reason to hit a dog during training. Slapping a dog in the muzzle --his face-- is not akin to spanking a child for misbehaving.
Don't be fooled
Unfortunately, there is no requirement that instructors at obedience schools or businesses know how to train a dog to be a well-mannered pet, so just about anyone can throw a few mats on the floor, print up some flyers, and claim to be a dog trainer.
When searching for a trainer to help you teach Rover to come when called, not bother the family at mealtimes and not jump on the kids or Aunt Sally, here are some things to keep in mind.
First, some definitions:
Obedience instructor:
A person qualified to teach you to train your dog. An obedience instructor works with people, the people work with their pets.
Dog trainer:
A person who teaches your dog to obey, then teaches you how to get the dog to listen to you.
Behavior consultant:
A person with vast experience in observing, interpreting, and understanding dog behavior and correcting it when appropriate.
NADOI:
The National Association of Dog Obedience Instructors: a membership organization that certifies instructors at several levels of competence.
APDT
The Association of Pet Dog Trainers: a new organization of trainers specializing in training pets and helping pet owners solve problems.
Training collar:
Any collar that fits around the dog's neck that gives the handler control. The simplest training collar is a buckle collar. The most common is the chain training or "choke" collar. Rising in popularity is the prong or pinch collar, a torturous-looking device that actually provides a milder correction and is quite effective on boisterous dogs when used properly. Also acceptable is the halter or head collar, which fits the dog's whole head and uses the handler's ability to turn the dog's head rather than neck pressure as the control. Acceptable only as a last resort -- as in: "It's electric shock or euthanasia" -- is the electric shock collar.
Leash or lead:
A piece of leather or fabric with one end attached to the dog's collar and the other held in the trainer's hand. Chain or rope leashes are unwieldy and can cause blisters or burns if the dog pulls hard.
Now, some hints:
Decide whether a group class or private lessons fit your situation and your personality.
Observe at least two or three instructors or classes before making a choice.
Cardinal Rule Number One is to talk to the potential instructor or club or business representative before making a decision on where to train.
Questions to ask an instructor include:
"What are your teaching credentials?" Some instructors are certified by the National Association of Dog Obedience Instructors,and some may be members of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers. Some may have attended classes at National K-9 Dog Training School in Columbus. Some instructors attend seminars on dog behavior and training methods. Some have competed in obedience trials and may have achieved many titles on their dogs; however, expertise in training for obedience titles is not necessarily the same as skill in helping pet owners teach Sassy to quit begging at the table or encourage Rambo to be less domineering.
"How do you teach the dog to sit?"The answer should be any technique that guides the dog into position instead of forcing him to sit by pushing down on the hind end.
"How do you teach the dog to lie down?" The answer, again, should be any technique that guides the dog into position; unacceptable is any method that uses forcing the dog down by pushing on the withers (top of the shoulders).
"What training equipment do you recommend?" The instructor should be flexible here and allow for personal preference of the dog owner as well as the individual needs of the dog. The appropriate answer is something like, "We generally recommend (type of collar) but evaluate each dog's needs when you come to class."
"Do you recommend or provide a Canine Good Citizen test as part of the class?" The American Kennel Club Canine Good Citizen test is a minimal evaluation of the dog's potential as a well-mannered pet. Any instructor teaching basic obedience classes should at least be familiar with the test and should encourage pet owners to certify their dogs.
"What is your opinion of Rottweilers, Doberman Pinschers, Akitas, Chows, terriers, hounds or any other breed typically tagged as hard to train or aggressive?"The correct answer is "The breed can be tough for the following reasons, but if you are consistent and persistent in your training and understand your dog's character, you can be successful." Knowledge of individual dog or breed temperament should never be limited to "That's an (aggressive, stupid, stubborn, fearful, whatever) breed; you should get rid of it and start over."
Reliable instructors do not refuse a dog of a particular breed or mix as untrainable or aggressive. If a reliable instructor prefers not to work with certain breeds, he may direct you to another school but if he maligns your breed cross him off your list.
Observing a class
Weed out those who answer incorrectly and then make plans to observe a class of the level you are considering. If you have a puppy or young dog and know little or nothing about obedience training, be sure to observe a puppy or basic obedience class. Watching an advanced class will not give you a firm grasp of the training techniques or problem-solving tactics used by the club, business, or instructor. If you intend to enroll Misty at training club classes, be sure to observe the instructor who will be teaching your class, for club instructors are volunteers whose skills may vary greatly.
When observing a class, watch for:
An indication that the instructor actually likes dogs and people. This can be judged by, among other things, the willingness of the instructor to give individual attention when necessary for very shy or bold dogs, timid owners, boisterous dogs, etc.
Good, clear advice and instructions. Puppy classes should include some information on typical puppy problems such as housetraining, flea control, chewing, learning curves, and bonding and attention-getting techniques. Basic classes should include problem-solving information.
The method used to teach the dog to sit on command. Acceptable is any technique that coaxes the dog to sit and follows the successful sit with a lots of praise. Some instructors use food or toys held above the dog's head to trick them into a sit on command, then praise. Some instructors "scoop" the dog into a sit position by simultaneously putting backward pressure on the dog's chest and forward pressure on the outside of the hind legs above the hock joint. Unfortunately, some instructors put heavy pressure on the dog's hind end near the tail and force it into a sit.
The method of correction: No dog should ever be corrected until you are sure he understands the command. The corollary to this rule is that every dog should be given every opportunity to be successful. Therefore, until the dog begins to sit on his own as soon as he hears the word "sit," don't expect him to sit without some guidance. Until he begins to go down on the command, don't expect him to lie down without guidance.
The speed with which the class proceeds. Don't expect miracles; each step takes time. A dog that understands the command to sit may or may not be ready to understand the meaning of "sit, stay." If the instructor moves too fast, if the handlers are allowed to expect too much-too soon from their pets, you'll see lots of opportunities for mistakes, lots of corrections, and much frustration from dogs and owners.
The method to teach the "stay" command should proceed something like this: Tell Rover to "sit" by your side. Tell Rover to "Stay" and pivot in front of him close enough that his nose is inches from your leg. Keep the leash in your hand, held above the dog's head with loose leash to. Count to 10, pivot back, give the release command and praise the dog.
Once the dog stays in position for a minute while you standing knees-to-nose with him, you can stand three feet away, then six feet away. If the dog moves, go back to the knees-to-nose position. Don't ever give the dog consistent opportunities to break the command. If an instructor allows handlers to go too far-too soon and depends on constant corrections to teach the dog the meaning of "stay," progress will be slow, dogs will be confused, and owners will be disappointed.
Some indication that the instructor knows the difference between different personality types of dogs. There are shy dogs and confident ones, fearful dogs and aggressive ones, submissive dogs and dominant ones. A good instructor is willing and able to tailor training techniques to different dog characters and attitudes. A fearful dog that is corrected through force will become more fearful. A dominant dog that is corrected too softly will take command of any relationship. and why techniques that work with one may not work with another.
Other things to keep in mind:
Don't do anything to your dog unless it feels right to you. If you don't like the methods being used in the class, find another club or instructor. Most instructors understand that dogs have a dominance hierarchy in their social structure, that that hierarchy is transferred to the human family, and that humans must be dominant or the dog will rule the roost. Some instructors help owners learn to read their dog's behavior, to be the dominant member of the team, and to use minimal discipline to achieve the training goal. Others teach owners to train by intimidation. Still others over-read the dogs and the problems, explaining in great detail the psychology of the dog's mind at the moment of disobedience instead of working out a plan to eliminate or circumvent the bad behavior.
Don't expect the sit-com solution: It's highly unlikely that Fido's problems will be solved with a single eight- or 10-week course of obedience training.
Get what you pay for: Ask questions of the instructors, work hard at home on the lessons, read the recommended material, and enlist the help of the whole family. After all, Blackie is the family dog.
Don't take a puppy to classes until he has had all of his vaccinations. Your veterinarian may recommend keeping the pup home until he's 16-18 weeks old. Listen to your vet, even if obedience instructors insist the pup needs the socialization of a kindergarten class. Socialization is important, but not as important as avoiding exposure to fatal diseases such as parvovirus and distemper.
If money is a big consideration, the training clubs probably offer the best bang for the buck. However, the quality of instruction may be uneven and may not adhere to any particular method of training, for the instructors are volunteers with a variety of philosophical and practical backgrounds. Clubs generally require that all dogs attending classes be up-to-date on all vaccinations, including rabies and Bordatella (kennel cough).
If possible, talk to other dog owners who have taken classes at the school or club you are considering. While a single experience or two does not present the total picture, it will help you ask the right questions before paying the training fee.
Beware of anyone who diagnoses your dog's "problems" and proposes a solution without extensive questioning and observation of you and Rover. For example, some instructors assume that all big dogs and all exuberant dogs need the restraint of a prong collar. Others are sure that all problems arise from the owner's inability to dominate the dog and that dominance and shouting are inseparable.
The ultimate goal...
The goal of dog training is to build a bond between pet and family and to enjoy the process. A training class should be fun, informative, and helpful. If any of these ingredients are missing, if the instructor strikes the dog as correction, if the instructor does anything you consider questionable, ask why and if you're not satisfied with the answers, leave the class. Sticking it out because you already paid the fee could do great damage to your relationship with your pet.
Canine character test indicates dog's pack and defense attitudes
The Martins brought home the cutest German Shepherd puppy several months ago, and the children named her Cheyenne--just like their old shepherd who died last winter.
Cheyenne grew as shepherds do, and before long she weighed 50 pounds and was a handful at the end of a leash. And she stole food, off the counters, off the table, even out of the children's hands. This Cheyenne was nothing like the other Cheyenne. This Cheyenne chased the neighbor's cat, shredded the children's socks and underwear, and liked nothing better than a romp through the neighborhood with Mom and kids chasing behind, calling frantically for her to come back. The Martins were baffled--they bought a second German Shepherd because they liked the personality of the first, but they didn't know that within breeds, individual characters can vary widely.
During the last decade or so, dozens of books have been written and hundreds, maybe thousands, of seminars have been offered that focus on understanding learning style or working style as critical to getting the most out of a student, a subordinate, a colleague, or a spouse. In the last few years, dog trainers have incorporated the same principles into training programs. First, they determine the learning style of the dog based on his personality or drives; then they tailor a training program to fit that style.
The technique of recognizing dog drives--the inborn attitudes towards the stresses of life--is an old one, but until 1991 when Wendy Volhard put it down on paper, the knowledge was passed on from trainer to protege. A founder with husband Jack Volhard of the so-called motivational method of training, Wendy Volhard attended a Schutzhund seminar taught by German trainer Jorg Silkenath. She became intrigued with the concept of drives and did further research before writing a series of articles for Off-Lead Magazine.
The concept is simple--dogs have different personalities and therefore different learning styles, and techniques that work with one may not work with another. Thus some dogs obey with almost whispered commands, and others need firm words and stern expressions. Some dogs panic at quick movements and others stand their ground. Some dogs need wide space and others are not happy unless leaning against the master's leg.
Drives defined
The four drives outlined by Volhard include prey, pack, fight, and flight reactions.
The prey drive includes those behaviors that highlight hunting and foraging behaviors. Dogs that hunt and kill their toys (or objects of clothing, pillows, etc.), chase anything that moves, steal food, stalk the cat, and pounce on toys or other animals are probably high in prey drive.
The Pack drive involves a dog's affinity for humans or other dogs. A dog with a high pack drive cannot get enough of people; he barks or cries when left alone, solicits play and petting, likes to touch, enjoys grooming, and loves the sound of his master's voice.
The Fight drive is defensive and indicates a dog's self-confidence in stressful situations. A dog with a strong fight-defense drive stands his ground, walks high on his toes, guards his territory and his family, may guard his toys and food, tolerates petting and grooming but does not really enjoy these activities, enjoys tug-of-war, and seems ready to fight.
The Flight drive is also a defense drive and indicates a dog's lack of self-confidence. A dog with high flight drive is unsure in new situations and may hide behind his person, is stressed when separated from his person, crawls on his belly or urinates when reprimanded, and may bite when cornered.
What they mean:
A dog with a strong fight drive may be described as dominant; a dog with a strong flight drive is often described as submissive and can become a fear-biter if not trained appropriately.
Although each breed exhibits a general character, individuals in each breed can vary. Akitas, Rottweilers, Dobermans, and German Shepherds are guard breeds and are expected to be high in both prey and fight drives and moderate or low in pack and flight drives, some individuals in these breeds have a high pack drive or a high flight drive. Golden Retrievers, Labrador Retrievers, Standard Poodles, and other companion breeds are expected to be high in pack drive and moderate in prey and fight drives, but some individuals may have a high defense drive and become either aggressive or excessively fearful. Problems can arise when a breed is chosen for its general drives but the individual dog differs from the prevailing character of the breed.
To determine the strength of these drives in an individual dog, Volhard devised a simple 12-question test for each. Each question is answered by "yes" or "no"; the number of "yes" answers determines the depth of the drive in the dog's personality.
Training tips
All dogs should be taught the meaning of each command and should be given the benefit of the doubt until the owner is certain that the command is understood. Once the dog understands, corrections can be used for mistakes, beginning with guidance back into position then progressing to voice correction in a soft tone, then a harsher tone, then a leash or collar correction. Dogs that are high in flight drive should not be corrected harshly; even a loud tone of voice is too much. Dogs that are high in fight drive can be handled more firmly, with a deeper, more forceful tone of voice.
However, the least amount of correction is always best.
Rambo is high in prey and pack drives and continuously pulls on the leash during a walk. He constantly sniffs, marks with urine, and is ready to chase cats, squirrels, or kids on bicycles. So Bob Jones teaches his pet to watch his every move by combining the "sneak-away" attention-getter and a new focus for Rambo's prey instinct. Jones carries a squeaky toy in his pocket during the walks and gives Rambo plenty of leash for wandering. Then, when the dog's nose is to the ground, Jones turns to the right and walks briskly away. His momentum forces Rambo to follow, and when the dog gets close, Jones rewards him by tossing the toy for him to catch.
Sunny is high in pack and flight drives, so Susan Moyer knows that her pet is likely to hide behind her and even urinate submissively in new situations. On their walks, Moyer also carries a strip of liver, which she asks strangers to offer the dog.
The Volhard method of training is based on motivating the dog to perform, not on punishing the dog for making a mistake. The Volhards have written several books about training that are available at local bookstores and also tour the country offering their seminar. If you're interested in attending contact a local dog obedience club for more information.
Leash: A leather, nylon, or cotton strap with a clip at one end for the dog's collar and a loop at the other end for easy holding. Leashes come in several sizes, but the six-foot size is the most common for obedience training and walks.
Collar: A leather, chain, nylon, or cotton apparatus that fits around the dog's neck and is used for control. Comes in several types: buckle, slip collar, choker and prong. Buckle collars can be used to train puppies and mild-mannered dogs that do not pull against the leash. Leather or flat nylon slip collars are helpful for dogs that are boisterous and dogs that pull hard against the leash. Chain or round nylon choker collars require skill to use but are the most common in training classes. The Volhard collar is a variation of the choker that is easier to fit and use. Prong collars are made of interlocking metal links with blunt prongs that can be worn next to the dog's neck or facing out from his neck. Prong collars are helpful with large and boisterous dogs and with dogs that are easily distracted from the business at hand. All collars must be fitted properly in order to work effectively.
Head collar or halter: An apparatus similar to a pony halter, the head collar works by controlling the dog's head, not pulling on his neck. A head collar is helpful for strong dogs, for dogs that are somewhat aggressive to other dogs, and for teaching dogs to focus on the handler.
Harness: A set of straps that fits around the dog's body, leaving no control over the head or neck. The harness is fine for small dogs and mild-mannered dogs, but should not be used on boisterous dogs or dogs that pull on the leash.
Puppy kindergarten: A special class for puppies that emphasizes behavior and socialization and teaches owners how to handle and teach their puppies the basic commands.
Basic obedience: A course of basic commands that dogs and handlers are expected to master before the end of the class session.
Advanced training: Classes for dogs that need a bit of polish for the show ring or for continued success at good manners.
Canine Good Citizen test: A 10-step, pass-fail test to prove a dog's good manners and an owner's sense of responsible dog ownership. Dogs must be licensed and well-groomed, sociable to people and other dogs, and understand basic obedience commands. A dog that fails any part of the test fails the whole test.
CD: Companion Dog, the first level of obedience titles involving mastery of sit, heel, down, stay, and come commands in a variety of exercises. To earn a CD, a dog and handler must achieve a qualifying score of 170 points (out of 200) at three separate shows under three different judges. A CD is earned from the novice class.
CDX: Companion Dog Excellent, the second level of obedience titles adding jumping and retrieving to the CD level and requiring that all work be done without a leash. The same three qualifying scores under three different judges are required to earn the title. A CDX is earned from the open class.
UD: Utility dog, the third level of obedience titles adding scent discrimination, directed retrieves, and directed jumps to the skills required. Dogs must also earn three qualifying scores under different judges to earn a UD from the utility class.
OTCH: Obedience trial championship, earned by continuing to compete at the open and utility levels and winning first or second place enough times to amass 100 points.
Q: What can I do to make my dog stop biting the heck out of me?
A: This is a common question of many dog owners.
All dog biting springs from the same source rooted deep in canine behavior. To answer the question properly, I divide the people asking into three categories according to the age of their dogs. Methods of correcting this problem differ if the dog is a young puppy, around a year old adult (teenager), or a two-to-four year old adult. Beyond the age of four years old, most dogs who have viciously bitten someone have been euthanized or otherwise disposed of.
Biting is very basic canine dominance behavior used from the time a puppy is able to move around in its litter. Biting among wild and domestic canines is used as communication to establish standing within the pack. This pack may be an extended family of wild canines, a litter of puppies with its mother, or your pet dog intermingling with your family. Dogs live so well with humans because they regard all the members of your family as fellow pack members.
The puppy biting dog
If the biting dog is a puppy under six months old, the biting is very correctable. Pups this young rarely bite hard enough to break skin, and many people start out thinking their new pup is simply playing. Your young pup may or may not have risen to the status of pack leader within its litter of puppies. Moving into your house, the pup is introduced into a new pack and is unsure of his ranking within the group. No matter the reason for biting, young pups should never be allowed to playfully use their teeth on human skin.
There are hundreds of tapes and books available on how to train your dog. While tapes and books are a start, there is no substitute for face to face sessions with a qualified obedience instructor. Puppy kindergarten and basic dog obedience are good classes to take. Professional trainers can not only answer the question of why the pup is biting but can show you how to use various exercises to communicate to the new pup that the people rank above it in the pack. Most of these exercises mimic the way your pup was disciplined by his mother and other litter members. Performing these exercises tells your pup that you are the leader in a manner well understood by dogs. A good trainer will also go over small changes you should make in your everyday life. These changes may mean little to you, but to a dog they govern every aspect of life. Establishing a correct relationship between a pup and its human family will lead to years of enjoyment of each other’s companionship.
The teenaged biting dog
Older puppies (around a year old) who have intimidated their owners through their early puppy months will progress to what most refer to as "play biting." By this stage, the biting no longer looks like a cute puppy game; even if the dog is not breaking the skin, the problem is becoming serious. The dog is making it clear that, as far as he’s concerned, the owner is stepping out of line. However, with obedience training, and by learning to modify certain daily living behaviors, this is still quite correctable. A formal obedience class, with a qualified instructor, will teach you to substitute desirable behaviors for the dog’s aggression, and how to modify existing behaviors. Such seemingly unrelated things as the games you play with your dog, where your dog sleeps, and when he is fed may be contributing to the biting problem. Allowed to progress, play biting can become vicious biting.
Obedience training is the quickest way to overcome play biting. A dog that learns to obey commands begins to understand that he cannot bully people. Management of biting teenaged dogs includes many of the same or similar techniques that are used with puppies: sit before getting petted or eating; no freedom to roam the house unattended until he learns to come when called; use of a crate for time-outs and when he cannot be supervised; no games (tug-of-war especially) where he wins; and no sleeping in a family-member’s bed.
The adult biting dog
This is the category where you hear on the news about a dog who "turned on his master." In reality, the owner was never the master; and the problem did not develop over night. These dogs have gradually reached the status of pack leader. In the dog’s eyes he owns the house, and all the possessions within, and it is his responsibility to protect his pack. If they gave in to the younger dog’s play bites and stopped doing obedience or grooming because the dog didn’t like it, the humans in the family may be demoted to subordinate pack members.
Dogs who achieve pack leadership will relish an opportunity to bite, drawing blood if necessary, if they perceive a human as getting out of line. Dogs who have reached this stage are dangerous and a liability suit waiting to happen. Most of these dogs end up euthanized or given away (to a good home); in the latter case, the problem is passed on to an unwitting new owner.
All is not lost, and dogs who reach this stage can be corrected. A qualified obedience instructor or dog behaviorist must intervene. The humans in the family must adopt a new regimen of behaviors to interact with the dog. The professional’s suggestions must be followed to the letter, because there is little margin for error. This modification period is usually more hard work than the humans care to undertake, and Fido will find the process unpleasant too. Special considerations must also be taken during the retraining, to confine Fido to prevent him from seriously biting someone. The family must also understand that the changes in day-to-day living with Fido apply for the rest of his life.
Yes, dogs bite, and for good dog reasons. Correcting the problem early, learning to communicate, and establishing a proper relationship will prevent heartache later.
Take the time to teach your dog to be obedient on a lead.
Teaching your puppy basic commands - Come, Stay, Sit, Heel, and Down - is essential to your relationship and the safety of your pup. As you prepare to work with your dog on obedience training, it is important to remember a few basic rules to make the process an easy and effective one. You may think you can do it on your own, but there's a right way and a wrong way to train. Starting out the right way is much easier than trying to retrain after bad habits are already formed.
From this point through at least one year of age, it is imperative that you make every effort to expand the puppy’s environment and expose her to new things. During this stage of their lives, puppies should be around as many different people and animals as possible. Take them with you when you go for a walk, shopping, or even to work. Encourage your children to bring their friends over to meet their new pet. Take an obedience or training course where they will meet other dogs. All of this is important.
There has always been a special bond between children and animals. Keep this special bond successfully alive during the holidays, the time of year that your pet and visiting children - or visiting pets and your children - will interact.
Has your pet ever slipped away from you at bath time? Did she shake off next to the sofa and rub the suds out on a good rug before you caught her? If so, the following tips will help ensure she not only stays put during the next bath, but also that you both have a more pleasant experience. 
Barking is a completely natural canine behavior, and is one of the primary ways in which dogs communicate. Your dog barks for a variety of reasons - normally good ones. But sometimes dogs bark inappropriately, whether in the field or in kennel situations. Inappropriate barking tends to reward itself, and can easily become a habit. 
Is your dog changing? Does he seem to be challenging you? Is he reluctant to be patted or picked up? Is your dog becoming destructive? These behaviors, on the surface, may seem to indicate a behavior problem that a little extra training may help. But before you begin re-training, consider that your dog may be experiencing health problems.
Most behaviors of dogs are either the product of instinct, or a learned behavior. Digging behavior is no exception; it is an instinct. In addition, there are certain breeds; Terriers and Dachshunds, for instance; which were bred specifically for their ability to dig out game such as badgers, foxes, and otters. They have an even greater digging instinct. 
Does your dog get upset or engage in destructive behaviors when you leave him alone? Separation anxiety is a serious problem which can cause tremendous emotional distress for both dogs and owners. Misinterpreting its signs as simply "bad dog" behavior is one of the most common reasons for pet owners to give up their dogs. 
Any owner who catches their dog eating stool is sure to be disgusted at least, wondering what could bring their family pet to resort to such a nasty habit. Yes, it's gross to humans. No, it doesn't mean your dog is abnormal. 
Some dogs, especially those in kennel situations, may eat feces because they are anxious or stressed. One researcher suggests that dogs who have been punished by their owners for defecating inappropriately start to think any defecation is wrong, so they try to eliminate the evidence. 
Dogs often jump up on people. This is normal behavior for a young dog. Puppies of wild canids do it all the time. They jump up on each other or their parents. Puppies of our domestic dogs do the same. Jumping up serves both as play and to teach them how to act as a predator or how to challenge other pack members in the dominance hierarchy. In some homes, puppies are encouraged to jump up on their owners. Obviously, this is a mistake. While it may be seen as cute or as a sign of affection while the puppy is small, it can be terrifying when done by a 100-pound Rottweiler. 
As the animal starts to jump up on you, turn sideways and either extend your leg or lean over and with your hip give a body block so that the dog never even gets her paws on you. You see, once she has her front paws on you, she already got what she wanted (she won and you lost).
The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC), a federal agency which monitors and controls human diseases, estimates over 4.7 million people are bitten per year. This is approximately 2 percent of the U.S. population. Ten to twenty people die each year from injuries resulting from dog bites. Most of these victims are children. 
Teach your dog appropriate behavior. Avoid playing aggressive games with your dog such as wrestling, tug-of-war, or 'siccing' your dog on another person. Do not allow your puppy to bite or chew on your hands. Set appropriate limits for your dog's behavior. Do not wait for an unacceptable behavior to become a bad habit, or believe your dog will 'grow out of it.' If your dog exhibits dangerous behavior toward any person, particularly toward children, seek professional help from your veterinarian, an animal behaviorist, or a qualified dog trainer. Your community animal care and control agency or humane society may also offer helpful services. Dangerous behavior toward other animals may eventually lead to dangerous behavior toward people, and is also a reason to seek professional help.
Get your dog used to the car environment. Get in the car together and have a treat. Talk. Be happy. Make it a fun time. Do not have the car running, just share a treat and make it a positive experience. Repeat this a number of times on different occasions. You may want to feed your dog in the car. If your dog is afraid of even getting into the car, try feeding or giving a treat close to the car.
Dogs commonly eat grass, and there are several explanations that have been offered for this behavior. One, wild canids (e.g., wolves and fox) eat all of an animal when they catch it. Since they eat many herbivores (plant-eating animals), they end up eating a lot of grasses and plants that were in the intestines of these animals. In addition, they have been known to eat certain berries and other plant material. Dogs then, may eat grass because, in reality, it is a normal part of their diet.
It is unknown why some pets become afraid of noises; it is a common problem in dogs, but less so in cats. The fear can soon become a phobia, which is defined as A persistent, excessive, and irrational fear response. In the case of thunderstorms, pets may also be fearful of storm-associated events such as a change in barometric pressure, lightning, electrostatic disturbances, and even smells associated with the storms. Noise phobias can include fear of thunderstorms, firecrackers, gunshots, and even the sound of birds.
Hiding (most common sign in cats) 
There is no "cure" for noise phobia, but there are ways to try to reduce the fear. First, refrain from giving rewards or punishment. This is extremely important. Petting, consoling, or even saying, "It's OK," may be interpreted by the pet as a reward for the fearful response. In the event of comforting a dog during a storm, for example, it may signal to the pet that the storm really is something he should be afraid of. Similarly, the pet should not be punished for showing fear. This will only increase his anxiety level. Usually treatment includes three other facets: medications, changing the environment, and behavior modification.
When you are ready to begin walking say "let's go" and take a few steps. Chances are good that your puppy will begin to pull immediately, so plant your feet and stop walking. Wait for the leash to go slack, give a food reward and try walking again.
Dogs lick for a number of reasons. They lick to groom themselves and others. Mothers lick their puppies to clean them and stimulate their urination and defecation. Older puppies and the young of wild canids (relatives of the dog such as wolves) lick the mouths of the adults as a greeting to stimulate them to regurgitate. The puppies eat this regurgitated food as they are weaned from their mother and begin to eat solid food. As the puppies grow older, the licking becomes a way of welcoming others back into the pack and increasing the bonds between the pack members. 
Separation anxiety is one of the most common behavior problems seen in older dogs. A dog who has separation anxiety will become very anxious when he senses his owner is about to leave. When the owner does leave, the dog often becomes destructive, barks or howls, may urinate or defecate, and may salivate profusely. A dog with separation anxiety will often be overly exhuberant when his owner returns. 
Associate your departure with something good. As you leave, give your dog a hollow toy such as a 'Kong' filled with a wonderful treat. This may take his mind off of you leaving. Anxiety tends to feed on itself, so if we can prevent the anxiety from occurring when you leave, the dog may remain calm after you leave. Make sure your dog's environment is comfortable: the right temperature, a soft bed, sunlight, 'easy-listening' music. Some dogs will be more relaxed if they can see the outside world, others may become more anxious. Similarly, some older dogs are more anxious when left outdoors, and do much better when they can stay in the house. Determine what is best for your dog. 
By determining what factors may be contributing to the aggression, we may be able to eliminate or reduce those factors. Treating medical conditions which contribute to the aggression is paramount. Watch the dog for signs of stress (increased panting), and remove the dog from the stressful situation which could cause aggression. Using a 'halti' headcollar and leash may provide more control over an older dog, especially one who has decreased hearing or vision. In some cases, a basket muzzle may be needed to assure the safety of human and non-human family members. DO NOT LEAVE A MUZZLED DOG UNATTENDED. Medications can be helpful in reducing aggression that may be due to fear and anxiety. As with separation anxiety discussed above, medication alone will not solve the problem. Work with your veterinarian and an animal behaviorist to develop a plan that will work best for you and your dog. 
Since older dogs do not handle stress well, getting a new puppy when you have an older dog showing signs of aging may not be the best idea. It is best to get a new puppy when the older dog is still mobile (can get away from the puppy), relatively pain free, is not experiencing cognitive dysfunction, and has good hearing and vision. 
It is thought that dogs may choose to roll in foul-smelling things to mask their scent, just as wolves do. Wolves may roll in decomposing carcasses or the feces of herbivores (plant eating animals) to disguise themselves. They want to cover their own odors so their prey will not be alarmed by their scent. This way, they can sneak up on their prey and have a better chance of making a kill. Some behaviorists feel dogs may roll in smelly things to 'advertise' what they have found to other dogs.
A dog with separation anxiety becomes abnormally anxious when separated from his owner. The severity of the anxiety and the behaviors that the dog exhibits vary from individual to individual. Some dogs become anxious if they cannot actually see their owner; they constantly follow the owner from room to room. Other dogs can tolerate being alone in a room but will check frequently to reassure themselves that the owner is still in the house, and then go back to playing or chewing on a bone in another area. Still other dogs do not become anxious until the owner actually leaves the home. Some dogs become most anxious as soon as the owner leaves, and other dogs have a period of time during which they are comfortable alone, but they become anxious if the owner is gone for an extended period.
If you feel your dog has separation anxiety, the first step is to discuss the situation with your veterinarian and have the dog undergo a complete physical examination. It is important to make sure that your dog's behavior is truly due to separation anxiety and not to something else. (For instance, inappropriate urination may occur if your dog was never actually fully housetrained, or if he has a urinary tract infection. A dog may bark when alone because he feels he is protecting his property, or because he can hear another dog.)
Another component of behavior modification that may help your dog to be less anxious is increased exercise. Exercise has mental as well as physical benefits for dogs. Veterinary behaviorists often recommend 45-60 minutes of intense activity twice a day. If your dog is a 'couch potato,' start out slow and build up the intensity and length of time over several weeks. If your dog has any health problems, check with your veterinarian before starting the exercise program.
are perfectly normal and from good backgrounds. These types of urination problems seem to be caused by either a lack of neuromuscular control over the bladder or by previous treatment that frightened or intimidated the puppy.
Dogs and cats can lick under or around their tails for a variety of reasons. Some of the most common are: 
On occasion, a pet will lick the anal area if it has intestinal worms. However, most animals with worms, do not show this behavior.
Picking the right toy for your dog isn't always easy. It may take a little trial and error before you find that perfect toy your dog just won't leave alone. 
