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Pet Nutrition Information

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Helpful Guides - Health And Safety

Pet Nutrition Information for A Dog or Cat

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Healthy nutrition is foundational to the overall well-being of your dog or cat. Their state of internal organ health, energy level, skin and coat, as well as behavior, and susceptibility to disease (or lack thereof) can often be attributed directly to aspects of their diet. It’s also possible that specific health issues that your dog is exhibiting may result from food allergies or, simply, overeating. Too, there are supplements for dogs and cats that can alleviate or reduce certain health concerns that we feel you’ll benefit by knowing.

ABC Pet Services is sure you’ll find the articles listed below of interest. Our owner, Anthony Moyer, is also available to offer you pet nutritional advice. Too, Anthony can also help you establish a safe weight loss plan for an overweight dog. Contact us.

Articles: (17)

Fatty Acids for Allergies & Dry Skin on Dogs Stool Eating: How Can I Break My Dog From This Nasty Habit?
Food Allergies Why Do Dogs Eat Feces?
Treatment of Allergies Eating Grass
FAQs: Dog Arthritis When is a Dog Considered to be Fat?
FAQs: Dog Arthritis Supplements Fir & Trim: One Way to Longevity for Your Dog
Starting Your Pet on a New Food FAQs: Multi-Vitamins for Dogs
4 Surefire Strategies Ensure Bath-Time Success Choosing the Best Food for Your Dog

Pet Food Labels - What You Need to Know

Starting Your Pet on a New Food
Understanding Healthy Pet Foods

Fatty Acids for Allergies & Dry Skin in Dogs

For many years, pet owners have given fatty acids to their dogs and cats to change a dull, dry coat into a more glossy one. More recently veterinarians have found that fatty acids play important roles in other areas of skin and coat health such as allergies, the control of inflammation, and the function of other body organs in dogs and cats.

What are fatty acids?

Fatty acids are specific types of polyunsaturated fats.

The two main classes of fatty acids we will be discussing are the omega-3's and the omega-6's. These classifications are based on molecular characteristics. (For you biochemistry buffs out there, check out the text box at the end of this article.) You may also have heard about omega-9 fatty acids. Omega-9's actually decrease the concentrations of omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids in the blood and skin.

Which fatty acids do pets need?

Animals can produce some of the fatty acids they need, but not all of them. Those fatty acids which they can not produce themselves, but must be obtained through their diet, are called 'essential' fatty acids. Interestingly, what is 'essential' for one species of animal is not necessarily essential for another. For example, the fatty acid, arachidonic acid is essential for cats but not for dogs.

In some disease conditions, certain enzymes which convert one fatty acid to another may be deficient, or the animal may not be able to adequately absorb fatty acids from the intestine. In animals with these conditions, some of the 'nonessential' fatty acids actually become 'essential,' that is, required in the diet, and in higher amounts. Deficiencies of fatty acids may also occur with the use of fat-restricted diets in overweight dogs.

Fatty acids in foods are subject to degradation. Overcooking can destroy fatty acids. Improper storage or a suboptimal amount of antioxidants in dry food may result in rancidity and a subsequent deficiency in fatty acids.

Omega-3 fatty acids

Omega-3 fatty acids include:

  • Alpha-linolenic acid (ALA)
  • Eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA)
  • Docosahexaenoic acid (DHA)

ALA can be converted into EPA, however, this conversion does not occur in the skin. EPA is the workhorse of the omega-3 fatty acids and is incorporated into the cell membrane.

Omega-6 fatty acids

Omega-6 fatty acids include:

  • Linoleic acid (LA)
  • Gamma linolenic acid (GLA)
  • Dihomo-gamma-linolenic acid (DGLA)
  • Arachidonic acid (AA)

LA can be converted into GLA, but not in the skin. However, DGLA can be made from GLA in the skin.

LA is important because it optimizes water permeability in the skin. AA, on the other hand, in increased amounts, is the troublemaker among the fatty acids.

Ratios of fatty acids

Research is being performed to determine the optimal ratio of omega-6 to omega-3 fatty acids that should be consumed. Previously, it was thought that the ratio should be approximately 15:1. Current recommendations are for ratios of 10:1 to 5:1.

Most pet foods contain far more omega-6 fatty acids than omega-3's. Some pet food companies have added omega-3 fatty acids to their foods to lower the ratio of omega-6 to omega-3 fatty acids. It is important to realize that although the ratios may be a guideline, the actual concentration of EPA in the omega-3's is what is most important.

Sources of fatty acids

Fat may contain fatty acids, but in extremely varying quantities. For example, beef fat will have a very low percentage of fatty acids, whereas, sunflower oil and fish oil will have much larger percentages.

Essential fatty acids are found in different quantities in many plants and cold water fish. Marine oils are good sources of EPA and DPA. The other fatty acids are found in higher quantities in certain plants and grains. Sunflower oil and safflower oil are especially high in LA.

For animals allergic to fish, the seeds of the Salvia hispanica plant provide a rich source of omega-3 fatty acids. The seeds of the plant contain their own antioxidants. A Salvia hispanica equine product called Tri-Omega has recently been approved by the FDA for use in horses.

As mentioned previously, most pet foods contain far more omega-6 than omega-3 fatty acids. It has been found that cattle and poultry fed increased omega-3 fatty acids will produce meat and eggs higher in omega-3 fatty acids. In the future, the use of these products in pet food may help to optimize the omega-6 to omega-3 ratio in the diet.

How fatty acids function in inflammation

Both AA and EPA can be incorporated into cell membranes. When a cell is damaged, AA is released from the cell membrane and is metabolized by enzymes into substances which increase inflammation and pruritus (itching). EPA is also released when a cell is damaged. It competes with AA for the same metabolic enzymes. EPA results in the production of less inflammatory substances. DHA also results in the production of less inflammatory substances. So DHA and EPA decrease the harmful effects of AA.

DGLA also competes with AA for enzymes. In addition, DGLA causes the release of prostaglandin E1 (PGE), a substance which inhibits the release of AA from the cell membrane.

Indications for the use of supplemental fatty acids

From that complicated description, we hope you can see that by supplementing with EPA, DHA, and GLA (which the body can easily convert to DGLA) we can lessen inflammation. Fatty acids affect a number of body systems and conditions, as described below.

Allergies and Autoimmune Conditions: Allergies and autoimmune conditions occur because the immune system over-reacts. Certain fatty acids can lessen the harmful effects these diseases can have on the body.

Arthritis: Research is showing that omega-3 fatty acids, especially EPA, may be helpful in reducing the inflammation associated with arthritis.

Other Inflammatory Diseases: Other diseases which are accompanied by inflammation such as ulcerative colitis, inflammatory bowel disease, and rheumatoid arthritis may respond to the anti-inflammatory effects of certain fatty acids.

Dull and Dry Hair Coats: Haircoats which are dull, brittle, and dry often respond to supplementation with essential fatty acids, especially LA. It has also been found that in some cases of seborrhea, there is a deficiency of LA in the skin. In these cases, supplements high in LA are useful. The addition of EPA and GLA is also beneficial in that it would help negate the release of AA from cells damaged because of this skin condition.

Yeast Infections: Fatty acids have been shown to slow down the growth of Malassezia pachydermatis, a common yeast infection in dogs and cats, in the laboratory. It is thought these fatty acids may play a beneficial role in the treatment of this yeast infection on the skin and ears in dogs and cats.

Preventing Atopy: Some researchers have suggested that fatty acid supplements may be useful to prevent atopy (allergies to inhaled substances such as pollens and molds) from developing in young animals. The theory is that pregnant atopic mothers have a decreased amount of PGE in their systems. PGE is necessary for the development of a healthy immune system in neonates. If the mothers are deficient in PGE, their offspring may be more likely to develop abnormal immune systems which would make them more prone to atopy themselves. Since GLA, when converted to DGLA, causes the release of PGE, giving GLA to a pregnant female in the last month of pregnancy and during lactation may increase PGE and decrease the incidence of the offspring developing atopy.

Eyes: In addition to their effects on the developing immune system, omega-3 fatty acids are also essential for the proper development of the retina and visual cortex.

Heart Problems: Evidence suggests omega-3 fatty acids may prevent certain cardiac problems as well. Ventricular arrhythmias in dogs have been prevented and high blood pressure has been reduced in dogs supplemented with fatty acids. Animals prone to thromboembolisms may be helped by the anti-clotting effect fatty acids have on platelets.

Cancers: Omega-3 fatty acids have been shown to slow the development and metastasis of certain cancers. Omega-6 fatty acids, on the other hand, have been shown to stimulate tumor development.

Plasma Triglycerides and Cholesterol: Fish oils have been shown to decrease levels of triglycerides and cholesterol in the blood. Animals receiving retinoid therapy (synthetic vitamin A derivatives) for various skin problems may develop hyperlipidemia. Fish oils may benefit these patients.

It should be obvious that fatty acids are necessary for the normal function of many systems of the body. It is also obvious that not all fatty acids are equal. Because the different fatty acids have different effects, the choice of a fatty acid supplement needs to be based on the specific condition we are trying to treat.

The sources and uses of fatty acid supplements are shown below.

Choosing a fatty acid supplement

Animals being treated for atopy should have supplements with high amounts of EPA, DHA, GLA, and vitamin E.

Animals with seborrhea and other keratinization disorders will benefit from supplements high in LA. Zinc, folic acid, and other additives may also be helpful. Dry, dull hair coats are also an indication for supplementation with LA.

The polyunsaturated fats in fatty acid supplements increase the need for antioxidants. Fatty acid supplements should be fortified with vitamin E.

There are numerous brands of fatty acid supplements with different quantities of vitamins and minerals, as shown in the table below. You can see that the amount of various fatty acids and additives varies considerably. If one brand of fatty acid supplement is not beneficial, another one may be since the ratio of the various fatty acids differ from brand to brand.

Fatty acids as part of a treatment plan

In some animals, fatty acids alone can decrease pruritus or inflammation to an acceptable level. More often, fatty acids are used in conjunction with other therapies. Fatty acids have a synergistic effect with both antihistamines and glucocorticoids. By using fatty acid supplements, we can often decrease the dose of glucocorticoids by 50% or even eliminate them in animals with allergic pruritus. Anecdotal reports have suggested, that supplementation with biotin will increase the effectiveness of fatty acids. Since fatty acids need to be incorporated into cell membranes, they usually do not have an immediate effect. Often a pet must be on a fatty acid supplement for a month before any positive results can be seen. Many veterinary dermatologists recommend that fatty acids be used for 9-12 weeks before considering discontinuation because of lack of positive results. Most experts advise treating with fatty acid supplements twice daily. Some research has shown that 2-10 times the recommended dose may be necessary to control pruritus in dogs.

Dermatologic conditions in cats such as miliary dermatitis and eosinophilic granuloma respond well to fatty acid supplementation, having success rates of 40% and 66.7% respectively. The success rate in dogs with allergic pruritus appears to be less, most studies reporting around 20%.

Risks and side effects of fatty acid supplementation

There are few side effects of fatty acid supplementation. The most serious, but rare complication, is pancreatitis. This is an inflammation of the pancreas that can cause pain, diarrhea, vomiting, and dehydration.

Since fatty acids are polyunsaturated fats, they do add calories. If a pet is on large doses of fatty acids, a pet food lower in calories, and fewer treats, may need to be given to prevent weight gain. Some pets may develop diarrhea from fatty acid supplements. Often, starting supplementation at a low dose and gradually working up to the therapeutic dose can help alleviate this problem. It has also been suggested that diets low in fat may increase the effectiveness of fatty acid supplements.

Because fatty acid supplements contain large amounts of fish oils, some pets develop a 'fishy' breath.

The long-term or high-dose effects of fatty acid supplements have not been determined.

Conclusion

Fatty acids have been shown to be important in the health of skin, coat, and other body systems. The various fatty acids have different actions and the choice of supplement needs to be based on the effect desired. For dry skin and dull hair coats, supplements high in LA are recommended. For allergies and inflammations, supplements high in EPA, DHA, and GLA are most effective. In the treatment of atopy and other allergies, fatty acid supplements have been shown to be synergistic with antihistamines and glucocorticoids, enabling the dose of glucocorticoids to be decreased. Therapeutic trials with fatty acid supplements should last 9-12 weeks.

To make the best use of fatty acid supplements, additional research needs to be performed to determine the optimal dosage, ratios, dietary modifications, concurrent therapies and long-term effects.

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Food Allergies

Food allergies account for about 10% of all the allergies seen in dogs and cats. It is the third most common cause after flea bite allergies and atopy (inhalant allergies). With the advent of lamb and rice diets many people feel that they are preventing or treating food allergies. The fact is that nothing could be farther from the truth.

The entire process of a pet being sensitized to a particular agent in food and the complicated antibody response that occurs in the intestinal tract in pets with food allergies are not very well understood. Despite our lack of understanding of the actual disease process, there are many things that we do know including the symptoms, how to diagnose food allergies, and also how to treat them.

Food allergies affect both dogs and cats. Unlike atopy, there is no strong link between specific breeds and food allergies. Food allergies affect both males and females and neutered and intact animals equally. They can show up as early as five months and as late as 12 years of age, though the vast majority of cases occur between 2 and 6 years. Many animals with food allergies also have concurrent inhalant or contact allergies.

Food allergy or intolerance?

There is a distinction that needs to be made between food allergies and food intolerances. Food allergies are true allergies and show the characteristic symptoms of itching and skin problems associated with canine and feline allergies. Food intolerances can result in diarrhea or vomiting and do not create a typical allergic response. Food intolerances in pets would be similar to people that get diarrhea or an upset stomach from eating spicy or fried foods. Fortunately, both food intolerances and allergies can be eliminated with a diet free from offending agents.

Common food culprits

Several studies have shown that some ingredients are more likely to cause food allergies than others. In order of the most common offenders in dogs are beef, dairy products, chicken, wheat, chicken eggs, corn, and soy. As you may have noticed, the most common offenders are the most common ingredients in dog foods. This correlation is not a coincidence. While some proteins might be slightly more antigenic than others, many proteins are similar in form and the incidence of allergic reactions are probably associated with the amount of exposure. For example, pet foods have historically been made up of beef, chicken, corn, and wheat. In an effort to combat food allergies, several companies produced a diet made of lamb and rice. There was nothing special about lamb and rice diets except those two ingredients were normally not present in pet foods. Animals had not eaten lamb or rice before, and therefore, had not developed an allergy to it yet. If the main ingredients in pet food become lamb and rice, then it would stand to reason that the most common problem foods could become lamb and rice. The determinant of whether a food is likely to cause a food allergy or not is based on the structure and size of the glycoprotein in the food. In addition, many lamb and rice-based foods contain many other ingredients, and if the animal has a food allergy to any of them, this lamb and rice food will do nothing to treat the food allergy. In addition, while many people criticized and blamed preservatives and flavorings as a source of food allergies, studies have shown that they are not the causes, and while we may not have justifiable health concerns about preservatives, food allergies is not one of them.

Symptoms

The symptoms of food allergies are similar to those of most allergies seen in dogs and cats. The primary symptom is itchy skin. Symptoms may also include chronic or recurrent ear infections, hair loss, excessive scratching, hot spots, and skin infections that respond to antibiotics but reoccur after antibiotics are discontinued. There is evidence that dogs with food allergies may sometimes have an increased incidence of bowel movements. One study showed that non-allergic dogs have around 1.5 bowel movements per day where some dogs with food allergies may have 3 or more per day.

It is difficult to distinguish an animal suffering from food allergies from an animal suffering from atopy or other allergies based on physical signs. However, there are a few signs that always make me suspect food allergies. One of these, is a dog with recurrent ear problems, particularly yeast infections. Another, is a very young dog with moderate or severe skin problems. A third tip off, is if a dog suffers from allergies year-round or if the symptoms begin in the winter. And the final clue, is a dog that has very itchy skin but does not respond to antihistamines or steroid treatment.

Diagnosis

The diagnosis for food allergies is very straightforward. But due to the fact that many other problems can cause similar symptoms and that many times animals are suffering from more problems than just food allergies, it is very important that all other problems are properly identified and treated prior to undergoing diagnosis for food allergies. Atopy, flea bite allergies, intestinal parasite hypersensitivities, sarcoptic mange, and yeast or bacterial infections can all cause similar symptoms as food allergies. Once all other causes have been ruled out or treated, then it is time to perform a food trial.

Elimination diets and provocative testing: A food trial consists of feeding an animal a novel food source of protein and carbohydrate for 12 weeks. A novel food source would be a protein and carbohydrate that the animal had never eaten before. An example would be rabbit and rice, or venison and potato, or duck and rutabagas. These are homemade diets but there are several commercial diets available on the market. Special Foods produced by Hill's and Purina, and a food named Excel are used by many dermatologists. Regardless of the diet used, it must be the only thing the animal eats for 12 weeks. This means no treats; absolutely nothing but the special food and water. Young growing pets have special dietary needs and a homemade diet that only contains one protein and one carbohydrate with no multivitamin or fatty acid may not be suitable even for only twelve weeks. For puppies undergoing a food trial, a balanced commercial diet like the ones listed above is recommended. Veterinarians used to recommend that a pet only needed to be placed on a special diet for 3 weeks, but new studies show that in dogs, only 26% of those with food allergies responded by day 21. However, the vast majority of pets responded by 12 weeks. Therefore, it is very important to keep the pet on the diet for the entire 12 weeks. If the dog shows a marked reduction or elimination of the symptoms, then the animal is placed back on the original food. This is called 'provocative testing' and is essential to confirm the diagnosis. If the symptoms return after going back on the original diet, the diagnosis of a food allergy is confirmed. If there has been no change in symptoms but a food allergy is still strongly suspected, then another food trial using a different novel food source could be tried.

We must reiterate that placing a dog on a commercial lamb and rice formula dog food is not an acceptable way to diagnose or treat food allergies. Lamb and rice are no longer considered novel food sources and most commercial lamb and rice diets also contain wheat, egg, corn, or other ingredients that can be the cause of the food allergy. Despite the implication by dog food companies to the contrary, these foods do not prevent food allergies nor are they considered adequate for diagnosis. While these diets may provide adequate nutrition, they are not a substitute for a true, novel protein source diet.

Blood Testing: Many owners and veterinarians attempt to look to other tests to diagnose food allergies. Blood tests such as the RAST test or the ELISA test can be performed to screen for food allergies. In addition, intradermal skin testing could also be performed. Despite the fact that these tests are routinely performed and used as a diagnostic aid, there is no evidence that blood tests are accurate for the diagnosis of food allergies. Veterinary dermatologists insist that there is no merit in these tests whatsoever in the diagnosis of food allergies. The only way to accurately diagnose food allergies is with a food trial as detailed above. While the intradermal skin testing is excellent for diagnosing atopy (inhalant allergies) it is ineffective for food allergies. While the ELISA and to a lesser extent the RAST test can be used to help in the diagnosis of atopy, they have no benefit in diagnosing food allergies. In our review of all the current books and articles on veterinary dermatology and allergies, we could not find a single dermatologist that endorsed anything other than the food trial as an effective diagnostic aid. If you want to diagnose and treat food allergies you must do a food trial.

Treatment

Once we determine a positive diagnosis, then the treatment is very straightforward. The owner of the animal has two choices. They can choose to feed the animal a special commercially prepared diet or a homemade diet.

If the owner chooses to feed the homemade diet, then they can periodically challenge the pet with new ingredients and determine which ingredients are causing the food allergy. For example, if the animal's symptoms subsided on a diet of rabbit and potatoes, then the owner could add beef to the diet for two weeks. If the animal showed no symptoms, then they could then add chicken for two weeks. If the animal began to show symptoms, then it could be assumed that chicken was one of the things the pet was allergic to. The chicken could be withdrawn and after the symptoms cleared up, a different ingredient could be added and so on until all of the offending ingredients were identified. A diet could then be formulated that was free of the offending food sources.

If homemade diets are used, it is essential that they be balanced, with correct amount of ingredients, vitamins, and minerals.

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Treatment of Allergies

This article will help you better understand allergy treatment in pets. Treatment options for atopy, food allergies, and contact dermatitis will be discussed.

About 90% of allergic pets can be effectively controlled with the following treatments. Some dogs might only require a fatty acid supplement or a simple change in diet to keep their allergies under control, whereas, some animals may need to incorporate several or all of the following treatments to be effective. I will give treatment options for all three allergy types. Remember that many animals may have allergies to more than one allergen and may also have both food and atopic allergies.

Atopy

Atopy or (inhalant allergy) is by far the most common cause of allergies in dogs. Many of these pets suffer from intense itching and usually have a seasonal pattern initially, but it may turn into a year-round problem. Other animals may show only mild signs, and treatments for dry skin, skin infections, or fleas may solve most of the problem.

Avoidance

This can be a very important part of managing atopy. While it may be impossible to completely eliminate all of the offending agents, many can be reduced with minimal effort on the part of the owner. For avoidance therapy to have any benefit, the offending agents must be identified through intradermal skin testing. Avoidance is rarely a complete treatment in itself, but is used in conjunction with other treatments.

Allergen Avoidance Suggestions
House dust Keep pets out of room several hours when vacuuming
Use a plastic cover over pet's bed
Wash bedding in very hot water
Avoid letting pets sleep on stuffed furniture
Avoid stuffed toys
Keep pets in uncarpeted rooms
Run air conditioner during hot weather

House dust mites

Keep pets out of basements
Keep pets indoors when the lawn is mowed
Avoid dusty pet foods
Clean and disinfect humidifiers
Use dehumidifiers
Avoid large numbers of houseplants
Molds Keep dogs out of fields
Keep grass cut short
Rinse dog off after periods in high grass and weeds
Keep pets indoors during periods of high pollen season
Pollens

Topical therapy

Topical therapy consists of shampoos and rinses and topical anti-itch solutions. Topical therapy offers immediate, but short-term relief. I recommend bathing atopic dogs at least once every two weeks with a hypoallergenic shampoo or colloidal oatmeal shampoo. Hydrocortisone shampoos may also be used. Weekly or even twice weekly shampoos may offer increased relief for some dogs.

Topical solutions containing hydrocortisone offer some relief. They are the most practical in treating localized itching. Creams or salves are often used on the feet and between the toes and sprays are used on the abdomen or other areas with less hair. These products are very poorly absorbed into the bloodstream, and when used in moderation, do not create long-term side effects or problems associated with injectable or oral steroids. In addition, cooling salves and lotions may also be used. Care must be taken with these to ensure that they do not make the coat too greasy. Dogs may tend to lick off these preparations. After applying these preparations, it is recommended to get the pet involved in some activity to prevent him from licking the treated area.

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FAQs: Dog Arthritis

What is arthritis?
The medical definition of arthritis is "inflammation of the joint." There are two major types of arthritis. Degenerative joint disease is by far the most common, and is also called osteoarthritis. Degenerative joint disease (DJD) is a progressive condition in which the cartilage in the joint is slowly broken down, and bony changes occur. Examples of degenerative joint disease include hip dysplasia and elbow dysplasia. Inflammation occurs in degenerative joint disease but to a lesser extent than the other major type of arthritis called inflammatory arthritis. In inflammatory joint disease, large amounts of fluid, protein, and white blood cells enter the joint. Inflammatory joint disease can be caused by infections, such as Lyme Disease or autoimmune diseases such as rheumatoid arthritis, which is more common in people.

What causes osteoarthritis?
Osteoarthritis can occur as a result of wear and tear on an otherwise normal joint as the dog ages. This is called primary osteoarthritis. Osteoarthritis may also occur as a result of another condition being present, such as hip dysplasia or elbow dysplasia. Then it is called secondary osteoarthritis. There are actually many causes of arthritis.

Which dogs are at risk of developing osteoarthritis?
Certainly any dog with a developmental or congenital joint problem, like dysplasia or patella luxation, is going to be more prone to developing osteoarthritis. Dogs who have had injury to a joint such as a fracture involving the joint, or a ruptured anterior cruciate ligament in the knee will be also more likely to develop degenerative joint disease.

What are the signs of osteoarthritis?
The signs of osteoarthritis will vary as to which joints are involved, the age and size of the dog, and the severity of the disease. In general, the first signs may be an altered gait since the dog will try to put more of its weight on the unaffected limbs. There may be muscle atrophy (reduction in the size of the muscle) in the affected limb because the dog is using it less, or at least putting less weight on it. For instance, in a dog with hip dysplasia involving both hind limbs, the muscles of the hind limbs may be thin, whereas, the muscles of the chest and shoulders may be increased in size because the dog is putting more weight on the front legs.

Many times the dog may find it difficult to get up after lying down and appears stiff. The dog may be unable to jump up into the car. Many dogs find it difficult to go up or down stairs.

Depending upon the amount of pain the dog is experiencing, there may be changes in appetite and behavior (e.g., the dog may go off by himself more often). The joints are generally not swollen and the pain is the dull aching type, so dogs do not often vocalize or cry out in pain. Some dogs will lick or bite at the area that is painful. Some will seek out warmth or soft places to sleep.

What causes the pain in osteoarthritis?
In osteoarthritis there is a loss of the smooth cartilage that covers and protects the end of the bones in a movable joint, such as the hip. The cartilage has no nerves, so when it touches the cartilage of another bone, there is no pain. When the cartilage wears away, the bone is exposed. The bone does have nerves so when the two bone ends in a joint touch each other it results in pain and inflammation. In osteoarthritis we also see small bony projections (osteophytes) form on the bone that is close to the joint. This adds to the pain. Osteoarthritis is progressive, meaning it continues to get worse.

How do I know if my dog is in pain from arthritis?
The most common signs of pain associated with arthritis in dogs include stiffness, limping or favoring a limb - (particularly after sleep or resting) inability to rise, and reluctance to jump, climb stairs, or even go for a walk.

Can osteoarthritis be treated surgically?
Some forms of degenerative joint disease can be treated with surgery. For example, hip replacements in dogs with hip dysplasia are becoming more common. Other procedures can also be performed but their success rests upon how many bony changes have occurred in and around the joint.

Other than surgery, what can I do for my arthritic dog?
Caring for a dog with arthritis (degenerative joint disease, osteoarthritis) requires combating it on many fronts. These include:

  • Weight control and exercise
  • Exercise and physical therapy (such as swimming)
  • Nutraceutical joint supplements for cartilage health, like Joint Care and FlexCare products
  • Prescription anti-inflammatories or non-prescription medication for treatment of pain and inflammation like Vetrin Canine Aspirin
  • Other supplements to reduce inflammation, including fatty acid supplements containing high levels of omega-3 fatty acids, such as Vitacaps®

Beyond these actions, owners of arthritic dogs may also be able to make their dogs more comfortable by providing ramps for steep but favorite places and soft but supportive orthopedic dog beds. For dogs with arthritis in the back or neck, dog sweaters or dog jackets may help, especially in colder climates. These dogs can also benefit from elevated feeders. Making day-to-day activities less painful for your pet will help you feel good, too.

Can I do anything to prevent my dog from getting arthritis?
Hip dysplasia and other types of dysplasias that are likely to cause arthritis in later years are primarily inherited conditions in dogs. Providing weight control, proper nutrition, and exercise may help prevent arthritis in your dog, or slow its progression. The use of
joint supplements, anti-inflammatories, and pain relief may decrease signs of arthritis, but the main causes of arthritis, i.e., joint looseness and bony changes, will not change significantly.

Some infections, such as Lyme disease, can cause arthritis in dogs. Using a Lyme vaccine and tick control products can help protect your pet.

What is the prognosis for dogs with osteoarthritis?
Osteoarthritis is progressive - it will continue to worsen. There are ways we can manage and medically treat the disease to slow down the progression and many dogs respond well and can live comfortably for years. In more severe cases, surgery may be performed including actual joint replacements. In these cases, the recovery is usually very good.

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FAQs: Dog Arthritis Supplements

How do glucosamine and chondroitin in joint supplements work?
Basically, when a dog has arthritis, the cartilage in the joints is being worn down faster than new cartilage can be made. Glucosamine provides the building blocks to synthesize new cartilage. Chondroitin also is one of the products necessary for the production of cartilage, but it probably plays a more important role by combating and neutralizing destructive enzymes in the joint. Glucosamine plus chondroitin work better together than either ingredient alone.

How long can I keep my dog on a joint supplement?
Most dogs with arthritis need to be on a joint supplement for the rest of their lives. Studies have shown that in arthritic joints, cartilage degeneration will reoccur about four to six months after the arthritis supplement is discontinued. Once the product has promoted healing for 6-8 weeks, the dose can often be reduced.

Do joint care supplements for dogs have any side effects?
There have been very few side effects observed in dogs taking joint supplements. Drs. Foster and Smith have sold tens of thousands of doses of glucosamine and chondroitin products and have never seen a single, severe side effect. Rarely, a dog will vomit or get diarrhea if started on high doses. If the dose is reduced or given with food, the symptoms are usually alleviated. The safety of supplements for arthritis in dogs makes them well suited for long term use.

Can I give my dog joint supplements containing glucosamine or chondroitin along with painkillers or other drugs?
It is always best to check with your veterinarian before putting your dog on any medication or supplement. If recommended, your dog can be given both a joint supplement and an anti-inflammatory pain reliever, such as aspirin or carprofen (Rimadyl®). Many dogs taking an arthritis supplement no longer require a pain reliever, however, some dogs with severe arthritis may need to be on a low dose of pain relieving medication to maintain their comfort even with the benefits of glucosamine and chondroitin. Other supplements such as multivitamins and fatty acids are often given to animals on glucosamine supplements without any problems.

How are joint supplements for dogs different from those for humans?
Pharmaceutical grade glucosamine and chondroitin are used for human joint supplements and are found in some supplements for dogs. Joint supplements for dogs contain ascorbic acid to help in the uptake of the ingredients by the body. In addition, canine arthritis supplements are dosed in the correct size for dogs and are often flavored to make them more palatable to pets. Canine arthritis supplements also come in granules, such as FlexCare with Creatine, that can be mixed with the food.

What is perna mussel?
Perna canaliculus, or green-lipped mussel, is an edible shellfish found off the shores of New Zealand. The soft tissue is separated from the shell, washed several times, frozen, and freeze-dried. It is then processed into a fine powder and added to joint supplement products. It contains glucosamine, glycosaminoglycans (which are also building blocks of cartilage), and a type of omega-3 fatty acid. Arthritis supplements for dogs that contain perna include JointGuard® Plus, Flexcare with MSM, and Glyco-Flex products.

What is creatine?
Creatine is modified by the body to serve as a storage reservoir for quick energy. In humans, it builds lean body mass by helping the muscle work longer, allowing one to train harder, lift more weight, and have more repetitions. It is the increase in exercise that results in building muscle, not creatine alone. When combined with exercise, it may be helpful in dogs who are losing muscle. Joint supplements for dogs that contain creatine include Flexcare with Creatine, and SynoviCre.

What is MSM?
Methylsulfonylmethane (MSM) contains sulfur in a form the body can readily use. Sulfur is necessary for the production of collagen, glucosamine, and chondroitin, which are the building blocks of cartilage. Sulfur is also necessary in the formation of glutathione, which functions as one of our body's best natural antioxidants. In addition, MSM has been promoted as having powerful anti-inflammatory and pain reducing properties

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Starting Your Pet on a New Food

When feeding your pet a new food, introduce it slowly. If you feed too much too soon, your pet could suffer from stomach upset, vomiting, excess gas, constipation, or diarrhea.

Intestinal Bacteria Play An Important Role

Normal bacteria in the intestine help your dog or cat digest food. A sudden change in food can result in changes to the number and type of bacteria and their ability to help digest food. These changes can lead to intestinal upset. Therefore, your pet must be switched to a new food slowly.

A Gradual Change is Best

Switching to a new food should be done gradually over the course of 7-10 days. For example, make a mixture that contains 25% of the new food and 75% of the old food and feed that for three days. Then make it 50-50 for three more days, then 75% new food and 25% old food for three more days. If your pet seems comfortable with this progression, you can start feeding 100% new food.

If at any time your dog or cat starts vomiting, has loose stools, or appears constipated, slow the rate at which you are switching the food. And as always, if problems continue to occur, consult your veterinarian.

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4 Surefire Strategies Ensure Bath-Time Success

Has your pet ever slipped away from you at bath time? Did she shake off next to the sofa and rub the suds out on a good rug before you caught her? If so, the following tips will help ensure she not only stays put during the next bath, but also that you both have a more pleasant experience.

  • Prevent escapees
    Use a pet tub, like the Booster Bath with a leash hook or restraint to gently hold your pet in place, freeing your hands to massage in the shampoo. A non-slip bath mat helps keeps them in place, too.
  • Select the right shampoo
    Resist the urge to use your shampoo on your pet. Pet specific formulated shampoos are formulated to meet the unique needs of pets, whether they be itch control, moisturizing, scale removal, inflammation relief, or improved coat shine.
  • Massage down to the skin
    Work the shampoo down all the way to your pet's skin to boost the effectiveness of the active ingredients and to help massage away loose skin and hair. A grooming mitt has nubbed teeth to get down deep into the coat.
  • Rinse and dry completely
    At rinse time, use a sprayer, such as the WaterPic hand held, to force water down deep, so shampoo rinses out completely to prevent skin irritation later. Keep the restraint attached as you towel dry your pet.

The proper shampoo, correct tools, and effective restraint make bath time more enjoyable, and less hectic, for you and your pet. Now, you're ready to groom.

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Pet Food Labels - What You Need to Know

Information presented on pet food packaging can be very helpful in determining which food is best for your pet. When choosing a pet food, be sure to read the entire package, and carefully consider the guaranteed analysis, dry matter basis, and ingredients. Just a few minutes spent comparing, analyzing, and selecting a quality pet food can help to ensure a happy, healthy pet for many years to come.

Today's pet food labels are packed with valuable information to help you determine the quality of your pet's food - if you know how to read them. In addition to providing information about the amount and quality of protein, fat, carbohydrates, fiber, and other nutrients included in the food, the label also alerts you to any unwanted preservatives and provides general feeding guidelines.

The label can also help you when you're considering the price of the food. Using information on the label, you can calculate the price per pound or the price per day. And be sure to check the ingredients - they will tell the real story.

Guaranteed Analysis

The Guaranteed Analysis shown on the information panel of a pet food package tells you how much crude protein, crude fat, fiber, and other vital nutrients are included in your pet's food. It does not, however, provide information about ingredient digestibility. Digestibility, expressed as a percent, is a measure of the amount of food retained in the body after it has been eaten. For example, if a dog eats 8 oz. of food, and produces 3 oz. of stool, the food's digestibility is 63% (the difference between the weight of food eaten and the weight of stool produced, divided by the weight of the food). The digestibility of protein and fat can vary widely depending on their sources.

Converting dry matter basis

Dry matter in a pet food - the amount of ingredients remaining once the food's moisture has been factored out - can be converted/calculated using the information contained in the guaranteed analysis. Canned foods can have up to 80% moisture, whereas some dry foods have as little as 6%. Converting dry matter basis is important for two reasons. First, pet food is priced by the pound - food that is 80% water contains only 20% food, making the amount of actual food your pet consumes small and more expensive. Second, determining dry matter can help you compare crude protein and fat between brands and between canned and dry foods. Guaranteed Analysis listings on pet food labels typically describe the food as it is (moisture included), not on a dry matter basis. Converting to a dry matter basis on different brands of food will let you compare their nutritional benefits accurately. Fortunately, the conversion is rather simple.

A dry pet food with 10% moisture logically contains 90% dry matter. Look at the label and check the protein level. Say, for example, that the protein level reads 20%. To get the dry matter basis, divide the 20% protein by the 90% dry matter. This calculation yields a protein value of 22% on a dry matter basis.

Now let us compare this dry pet food to canned pet food with 80% moisture (and 20% dry matter). The canned food label shows 5% protein. Dividing the 5% protein by 20% dry matter results in 25% protein on a dry matter basis. This specific comparison shows that the canned food has more protein per pound on a dry matter basis than the dry food. You can perform similar comparisons for fat, fiber, and so on.

Ingredient list

Because all pet foods must list their ingredients in order of weight, the ingredient list is one of the best ways to determine a food's quality. Once you understand the ingredients, you can choose a food that is highly digestible and free of unwanted products. As a consumer, you should consider all the ingredients (even the ingredients at the end of the list) as well as the type of preservatives being used - natural or artificial.

The AAFCO standards

The Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) develops guidelines (standards) for the production, labeling, and sale of animal foods. AAFCO has developed two standards specifically for pet foods. Pet foods meeting AAFCO's requirements will include one of two statements on their label.

The first standard states that the food is "formulated to meet AAFCO's nutrient requirement." This means the food was laboratory tested and was found to have the recommended amounts of protein, fat, fiber, and so on.

The second standard states something such as "animal-feeding tests using AAFCO's procedures substantiate that this product provides complete and balanced nutrition." Pet food labels may include this standard only if a food was shown to provide adequate nutrition after feeding trials to a controlled population of animals for six months. However, AAFCO allows pet food manufacturers to place this statement on every food with equal or greater nutrient concentrations in a specific "family" of food, even if only one product in the "family" met this standard. So, be aware - even if a pet food carries the AAFCO food trial statement on its label, you can not be sure that the specific product was actually tested in a food trial. While AAFCO statements on a pet food label may be open to interpretation, they definitely demonstrate the manufacturer's commitment to creating a quality pet food.

Feeding instructions

Feeding instructions or feeding guidelines are included on most every pet food package, and provide the recommended amount to be fed based on growth level and weight. Feeding guidelines should be regarded as recommendations only since every animal has unique daily requirements based on activity level, metabolism, breed, age, ambient environmental temperature, and stress factors. Start with these recommendations, then adjust the quantity fed based on your unique pet's appetite. If you're unsure about how much to feed your pet, contact your veterinarian for advice.

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Understanding Healthy Pet Foods

Years ago, a major pet food manufacturer, in order to illustrate the importance of using quality, highly digestible ingredients in pet food, created an unconventional diet - the "Old Shoe" diet. This "unique" formulation provided 10% crude protein, 6.5% crude fat, and 2.4% fiber - acceptable levels until you consider that the primary ingredients were four pairs of old leather work shoes, one gallon of used crankcase oil, one pail of crushed coal, and 68 pounds of water.

The "Old Shoe" diet clearly illustrates the need for ingredients actually useful to a pet's body. A dog could conceivably eat old shoes, used oil, and coal, but this unwholesome, unhealthy, unsavory (and potentially lethal) diet would provide few usable, digestible nutrients. The dog's digestive system would take virtually nothing from the food, then eliminate essentially the same amount that went in.

Thankfully, today's pet owners have a selection of pet food much more appealing - and infinitely more nutritious - than old shoes. Today's wide variety of pet foods typically fall into three major categories:

  • "Grocery-store" foods - found in grocery stores and mass-market retailers - are typically made with less-digestible, inexpensive ingredients and are therefore a cheaper, though less healthy, alternative.
  • Premium foods - often found in grocery stores, pet stores, and veterinarian offices - are usually more expensive than "grocery store" foods because their ingredients are of a higher quality, and are therefore somewhat more beneficial and digestible.
  • Healthy foods - the newest addition to the pet food market - lead the way in providing pets with the highest quality, healthiest, and most nutritious ingredients.

Healthy ingredients make healthy foods

Healthy foods provide the nutrition your pet needs to thrive - not just survive. Their wholesome ingredients can make a definite difference in your pet's health. Top-quality sources of protein (with no meat by-products), carbohydrates, fat, vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants, as well as natural colors, natural flavors, and natural preservatives give your pet abundant nutrition for optimal health.

Healthy pet foods typically contain:

  • Fresh, wholesome protein sources such as real meat or fish as the first ingredient (or one of the first two ingredients) to strengthen muscles.
  • Quality carbohydrate sources like whole barley, potatoes, and rice to maximize energy.
  • Quality fiber sources such as beet pulp, pea powder, and bran to maintain bowel health and function.
  • Natural fat sources like chicken fat and fish oil to provide energy and help maintain coat and skin health.
  • Natural preservatives such as Vitamin E, citric acid, and rosemary to slow the process of fat oxidation, which causes food to spoil.

Benefits beyond healthy nutrition

Since healthy pet food ingredients are packed with nutrients, your pet will get proper nutrition from a smaller quantity of food at every meal. Your bag of healthy food will last longer, so you won't spend as much on food as you first think. Plus, nutrient-dense, quality ingredients mean that your pet's body will take the maximum amount of nutrition from the food during digestion, and yield less waste as a result.

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Starting Your Pet on a New Food

When feeding your pet a new food, introduce it slowly. If you feed too much too soon, your pet could suffer from stomach upset, vomiting, excess gas, constipation, or diarrhea.

Intestinal Bacteria Play An Important Role

Normal bacteria in the intestine help your dog or cat digest food. A sudden change in food can result in changes to the number and type of bacteria and their ability to help digest food. These changes can lead to intestinal upset. Therefore, your pet must be switched to a new food slowly.

A Gradual Change is Best

Switching to a new food should be done gradually over the course of 7-10 days. For example, make a mixture that contains 25% of the new food and 75% of the old food and feed that for three days. Then make it 50-50 for three more days, then 75% new food and 25% old food for three more days. If your pet seems comfortable with this progression, you can start feeding 100% new food.

If at any time your dog or cat starts vomiting, has loose stools, or appears constipated, slow the rate at which you are switching the food. And as always, if problems continue to occur, consult your veterinarian.

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Choosing the Best Food for your Dog

Choosing a dog food in today's extensive pet food market can prove challenging. With the vast array of choices in today's pet food market, how can you tell which food is best?

Factors to address before selecting a dog food

  • Your dog's age/life stage - make sure you choose a food that's nutritionally geared to your dog's age (puppy, adult, or senior).
  • Your dog's body condition - dogs who are overweight or underweight need different nutrition than those who are not. Dogs who get lots of exercise also have different nutritional requirements. Choose a food that fits your dog's needs, whether it's weight control, performance, maintenance, or another formula.
  • Your dog's health history - if your dog has medical conditions such as diabetes, allergies, cancer, or digestive difficulties, you'll need to choose a food that is appropriate for that condition.
  • Your budget - simply put, feed your dog the best food you can afford. Generally, the more you spend, the better-quality, healthier food you'll feed.

Consider Your Dog's Preferences

Keep in mind that no one food is best for every dog. Dogs are individuals, just like people. Some dogs prefer dry food, some canned. Some dogs prefer chicken, some prefer lamb. You could feed a brand of very well-formulated food to a group of dogs and find that most of them do great on it, some do marginally well, and a few actually get sick from it. Luckily, today's market offers many well-formulated dog foods for dogs at all life stages, and it's fine to try several to determine which one works best for your dog.

Look Closely at Ingredients

When you're shopping for a healthy food for your dog, the ingredient list on the back of the bag is a good place to start. By law, pet food labels must list their ingredients in order by weight. Look for dog foods with meat, fish, or eggs listed as the first ingredient. These are very digestible, and if they are listed as the first ingredient, you can assume the food offers a good-quality protein source, and includes several valuable, usable amino acids. If you are switching to a new food, be sure to allow ample time for your dog to adjust to it.

Categories of Pet Foods

When searching for your dog's next food, keep in mind that pet food is now available in three major categories: "grocery store" foods, premium foods, and healthy foods.

  • "Grocery store" foods - those found in grocery stores and mass-market retailers - are typically made with lower-quality, less-digestible, inexpensive ingredients and are therefore a cheaper alternative. While easy on the pocketbook, "grocery store" foods normally do not provide your dog with the healthiest, most nutrient-dense ingredients.
  • Premium foods - often found in grocery stores, pet stores, and veterinarian offices - contain higher-grade ingredients, but may still include some elements of "grocery store" food, such as artificial colors, artificial flavors, chemical preservatives, and "filler" ingredients. Premium foods are usually more expensive than "grocery store" foods because their ingredients are of a higher quality, and are therefore somewhat more beneficial and digestible.
  • Healthy foods - the newest addition to the pet food market - provide pets with the highest quality, healthiest, and most nutritious ingredients. They are typically available for purchase online or direct from the manufacturer. Foods in the Healthy class - including Solid Gold, Wellness, Canidae, and others - contain nutrient-rich ingredients.

Formulated to provide optimum health benefits for pets, these foods often use whole, fresh fruits and vegetables, real meat as the primary protein source, and carbohydrate-rich whole grains like brown rice and barley. They should not contain artificial preservatives, flavors, or colors. They will almost always be fortified with additional vitamins and minerals, and will use the best natural sources for fatty acids to help build healthy skin and a beautiful coat. Because healthy foods use high quality ingredients, you should expect to pay a little more than you would for other types of pet food. Remember, though, with healthy foods you can generally feed less since healthy foods are more nutrient-dense than other types of food.

Check your dog's health after a month

After you've done all you can to make sure a food is healthy and beneficial, take a look at your dog after feeding the food for at least a month. Bright eyes, a shiny coat, and a healthy energy level will let you know you've chosen a good source for your dog's nutrition. If you need assistance selecting a food for your dog, seek veterinary/professional advice.

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FAQs: Multi-Vitamins for Dogs

Vitamins can improve the quality of your pet's life. They help regulate body processes, protect the body from environmental toxins, and break down nutrients such as carbohydrates, proteins, and fats so the body can utilize them. Vitamins work with minerals and enzymes for digestion, reproduction, muscle and bone growth, and maintenance of healthy skin and haircoat. All multi-vitamins for pets are not created equal.

What are the functions of vitamins?
Vitamins are necessary for literally tens of thousands of different chemical reactions in the body. They often work in conjunction with minerals and enzymes to assure normal digestion, reproduction, muscle and bone growth and function, healthy skin and hair, clotting of blood, and the use of fats, proteins, and carbohydrates by the body.

Are there different types of vitamins?
Yes. Vitamins are generally classified into two groups based on how or if they are stored in the body. Fat-soluble vitamins are stored in the liver and fatty tissue. Water-soluble vitamins, on the other hand, are stored in only very small amounts by the body. They need to be taken in daily, and any excesses are excreted by the body each day.

Fat-soluble vitamins include:
Vitamin A
Vitamin D
Vitamin E
Vitamin K

Water-soluble vitamins include:
Vitamin C
Vitamin B1 (thiamin)
Vitamin B2 (riboflavin)
Vitamin B3 (niacin)
Vitamin B5 (pantothenic acid)
Vitamin B6 (pyridoxine)
Vitamin B12 (cyanocobalamin) and Folic Acid
Biotin

The following charts show some functions of vitamins and what can happen to your pet if deficiencies occur:

FAT SOLUBLE VITAMINS

Vitamin

Recommended Minimum Daily Dose for Dogs

Toxic Dose*

Sources

Signs of Deficiencies

A

50 IU/lb.
or
2225 IU per lb. of food consumed

2500 IU/lb.

Liver, fish liver oil, vegetables, dairy products

Night blindness, retarded growth, poor quality skin and hair

D

5 IU/lb. or 225 IU per lb. of food consumed

50 IU/lb.

Sunshine, dairy products, fish liver oil

Rickets, poor eruption of permanent teeth

E

2-20 IU per day

none

Cold pressed vegetable oils, meats, nuts, green leafy vegetables

Reproductive failure, brown bowel syndrome

K

Synthesized in the body

none

Kelp, alfalfa, egg yolk

Increased clotting time and hemorrhage

*This dosage must be given daily for months to create toxicity.


WATER SOLUBLE VITAMINS

Vitamin

Recommended Minimum Daily Dose for Dogs

Sources

Signs of Deficiencies

Vitamin C

Not required, synthesized in the liver of healthy dogs

Citrus fruits and vegetables

Slowed healing, increased susceptibility to disease

Vitamin B1
(Thiamin)

.01 mg/lb.

Plants, fruit, vegetables, milk, meat

Loss of appetite, loss of reflexes, loss of nerve control, weakness

Niacin

.12 mg/lb.

Meat, meat by-products

Loss of appetite and weight, inflamed gums, hemorrhagic diarrhea

Vitamin B2
(Riboflavin)

.05 mg/lb.

Organ meats and dairy products

Poor growth, eye abnormalities, heart failure

Vitamin B5
(Pantothenic Acid)

.1 mg/lb.

Meats and vegetables

Hair loss, diarrhea, premature graying

Vitamin B6
(Pyridoxine)

.01 mg/lb.

Found in most foods, damaged during processing

Anemia, poor growth, skin lesions

Folic Acid

.002 mg/lb.

Organ meats

Hypoplasia of bone marrow, macrocytic anemia

Vitamin B12
(Cyanocobalamin,
cobalamin)

.00025 mg/lb.

Organ meats, animal sources

Macrocytic anemia

Biotin

.001 mg/lb.

Corn, soybeans, beef liver

Poor hair, dry skin, diarrhea


Do I need to supplement my puppy's diet?
To ensure your puppy is always in top form, feed a healthy, quality food, and supplement when necessary. A daily multi-vitamin such as Vita-minTabs Junior may help ensure that growing puppies get the vitamins they need for healthy tissues, strong bones, and overall good health.

Should I supplement my adult dog's diet?
To ensure your dog is always in top form, feed a healthy, quality food, and supplement when necessary. Older animals tend to absorb fewer vitamins, minerals, and electrolytes through the intestinal tract, and lose more of them through the kidneys and urinary tract. Also, some older animals eat less (due to conditions such as oral disease) and may not receive their daily needs of vitamins and minerals. Some evidence in other species suggest that antioxidants such as vitamins A, E, and C (beta-carotene) may play a role in protecting against some normal aging processes

What if my dog is super active?
Vita-minTabs Plus or PetTabs Plus include all of the vitamins your pet needs for a healthy life. It is especially beneficial for very active animals and also for animals under a lot of stress. These "Plus" vitaminescan have up to 50% more vitamin A and vitamin D3, 200% more B6, a full 300% more vitamin B12, a full 600% more vitamin E PLUS vitamin C, folic acid, and biotin.

Should I give my senior dog supplements?
Aging dogs have special nutritional needs, and some of those can be supplied in the form of supplements. Vita-minTabs Senior and PetTabs Senior, have higher levels of the vitamins and minerals your senior dog may need.

A large percentage of older dogs suffer from arthritis. We recommend a daily supplement containing glucosamine and chondroitin, for dogs suffering from arthritis, hip dysplasia, or other bone or joint problems. If your dog is not eating a complete balanced diet, then a vitamin/mineral supplement is recommended to prevent any deficiencies.

What traits should I look for in a quality vitamin?

Our advice to you is to check the label before giving any vitamin/mineral supplement to your pet and look for the following qualities:

  • Contains at least 8 essential vitamins including vitamin A, B-complex, D, and E, as well as the B vitamins. Vitamins A and E are all-important antioxidants that help maintain a healthy immune system and should also be included in the supplement.
  • Vitamins and minerals should be in the correct ratio for your pet's good health.
  • High palatability – Flavored tablets or gravey.
  • Easy dose choices, such as granules, tablets, liquid and others.

In addition, look at the ingredient list of multi-vitamin supplements to see from which sources the vitamins and minerals are coming. For example:

  • B-Complex and zinc from Brewer's Yeast and other sources
  • Magnesium from wheat germ and fish, and other sources
  • Calcium from non-fat dried milk, and other sources
  • Fatty acids from marine sources, such as cod liver oil
  • Iron from natural sources, such as liver, as well as other sources

Not all vitamin supplements contain these quality ingredients. And, remember that whatever your particular pet's species or age, the right supplementation will help him live the best quality life possible.

Can I give my pet too many vitamins?
There is always some controversy regarding vitamin supplementation. Many people feel supplements are very necessary. They feel that even when feeding a high quality food, some of the vitamins may have been destroyed by the processing or storage. Pet owners feeding a homemade diet or a diet high in table scraps should give their pet a high quality vitamin/mineral supplement. Ill or recovering pets who may have a poor appetite should also be given a good vitamin/mineral supplement since they are not receiving their daily requirements through the food they eat.

The possibility of vitamin toxicity with the fat-soluble vitamins, especially vitamin A and D, which are stored in the body, can occur with severe oversupplementation. Toxicities do not occur when you give your pet the recommended amount of high-quality, commercially prepared vitamin/mineral supplements. However, if you give a variety of supplements, each containing vitamin A or D, oversupplementation is more likely. Supplements must be chosen with care and large numbers of different supplements should not be used together unless prescribed by a veterinarian.

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Fit & Trim: One Way to Longevity for Your Dog

Obesity may be the number one health problem for domestic pets. And obesity leads to inactivity which leads to more obesity and health conditions like heart and liver disease, diabetes, arthritis and an increased surgical/anesthesia risk. Studies of our pets have shown that a quarter to a third of all American pets could stand to lose weight. As veterinary professionals, even we have trouble keeping a pet with a propensity to overweight as healthy as we can.

Plump Pups
Obesity in dogs is unhealthy for more reasons than it is for humans:

  • Bone and joint problems can be caused or exacerbated by obesity.
  • An obese dog may have high blood pressure and is at risk for heart disease and more serious lung conditions. Many times the chest wall of the obese pet is layered with fat, which, because of its increased vascularity (many blood vessels), puts an unbelievable strain on the cardiovascular system.
  • Obesity also plays a major role in liver and kidney disease. Although the pet's organs remain the same size, his bigger body produces more waste products and toxins for the liver and kidneys to filter out. This increases their workload significantly.
  • In addition, overweight and obesity play a huge role in cancer, diabetes, reproductive problems, stomach and intestinal problems and even heat stroke.
  • The obese pet may even be at greater risk when being anesthetized for surgical procedures. Being obese can decrease your pet's life expectancy and make the life he does have very uncomfortable.

Bred for fat?
Certain dog breeds have a propensity for fat. Dogs that were bred for working, like Labradors or Golden Retreivers, northern breeds like Malamutes or Huskies whose ancestors needed the extra layer, Dachshunds, Beagles, and Shelties are among breeds that were bred for being active. When a breed that is bred for work does not do that work anymore, that breed tends to put on the pounds. However, this is no excuse for not trying to help your favorite companion be the healthiest he can be!

How you can help

  1. Long daily walks can help combat excess weight; they're good for you as an owner and they can increase the bond you have with your pet. Playing fetch is also effective.
  2. Do not give table scraps or people food. You may be giving more than you realize.
  3. Try to decrease food amounts. Start by decreasing by about 10% and decrease by 10% increments if your dog is not losing weight.
  4. Treats should be given sparingly. Use lower fat alternatives such as Liver or Lamb Lung treats or baked Low Fat Pig's Ears.
  5. Feed a lower calorie food. Be sure that the food is of a high quality, since your pet will not be getting as many calories.
  6. Salt-free canned vegetables, such as string beans, can be used to bulk up the food. If you don't want to spend the extra money on a low sodium product, rinse the vegetables well under running water.
  7. If your dog's constitution can tolerate vegetable scraps like the ends of broccoli or carrots, they are a good way of getting more bulk into your dog's diet.

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When is a Dog Considered to be Fat?

Veterinarians often use a 9 point scoring system to evaluate the body condition of pets. A point value of 1 means the dog is extremely thin to the point of emaciation. A score of 9 means the pet is grossly overweight. And like Goldilocks and the three bears, a score of 5 is 'just right.' To determine body score, there are several specific areas of the dog we look at. Remember, these are guidelines. A Greyhound with a score of 5 is still going to be thinner than a Bulldog with the same score.

To perform the rating, we first feel the pet's ribs. We should be able to quite easily feel the ribs. There should be a slight amount of fat over them, but each rib should be distinct. If you can see the ribs, the pet is too thin. If you can not feel them at all, the pet is very overweight.

Second, check the area near the base of the tail. There should be a slight fat covering over this area and it should feel smooth. If the bones protrude, the pet is too thin; if you can not feel any bones at all, the pet is very overweight.

Third, feel other bony prominences on the pet's body such as the spine, shoulders, and hips. Again, you should be able to feel a small amount of fat over these areas. If these bones are easily felt or visible, the dog is too thin. If you can not feel the bones beneath the layer of fat, the animal is obviously overweight.

Fourth, look at your pet from above. The animal should have a definite waist behind the ribs. If the waist is extreme, or again, bony prominences are visible, the animal is too thin. If there is no waist, or worse yet, the area between the ribs and hips is wider than the hips or ribs, the dog is grossly overweight.

Fifth, look at the pet from the side. Dogs and cats should have an abdominal tuck, i.e., the area behind the ribs should be smaller in diameter than the chest. This can vary a lot between breeds. Irish Setters and Greyhounds, for instance, appear to have a much more distinct abdominal tuck, since they are so deep-chested. An animal who is too thin will have a very severe abdominal tuck. Overweight animals will have no abdominal tuck.

If you feel your dog is overweight, consult your veterinarian to determine if there are any other medical problems before starting the animal on a weight reduction program. Your veterinarian can also suggest various diets, how fast your pet should lose weight, etc.

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Stool Eating: How Can I Break My Dog From This Nasty Habit?

Any owner who catches their dog eating stool is sure to be disgusted at least, wondering what could bring their family pet to resort to such a nasty habit. Yes, it's gross to humans. No, it doesn't mean your dog is abnormal.

Although there are many theories why dogs sometimes eat their own stool or that of other animals, what's important is how you can help break your dog from this unappealing and potentially unhealthy habit. Start early - as a pup - since feces is a source of germs and parasites, and dogs not curbed of this habit as a puppy will have a harder time stopping later in life.

If Your Dog Eats His Own Stool . . .

  • If your pet is not being fed a quality dog food, increase the quality and quantity of the dog food you feed your dog. Store-bought foods are not digested as fully, and food that passes through the digestive system only to remain in the feces may actually make the stool taste appealing. For pets already on a high quality food, divide the daily intake into several smaller meals.
  • You can make stool taste repulsive to dogs using a vegetable-based chewable tablet like Dis-Taste, or by sprinkling some For-Bid or SEP over his food bowl.
  • Keep your yard clean and feces free.
  • Keep your dog active, since some dogs have been known to eat droppings as a negative behavior associated with boredom. Give them stimulating toys and interact with them on a daily basis.

If your Dog Eats Other Dogs' Stool . . .

  • Always walk your dog on a collar and lead or leash. If you see your dog going for it, give them a firm "no" command and keep them walking.

If your Dog Eats From the Cat's Litter Box . . .

  • Give your cat a daily chewable tablet like Dis-Taste, or sprinkle some For-Bid or SEP over her food bowl to make her stool less appealing to the family dog.
  • Consider getting your cat a litter box with a built-in cover like a Hooded Litter Pan.

As vile as you may view this behavior, our veterinarians emphasize you should never punish your dog for stool eating. To curb the habit, try the recommendations listed above, and if your dog continues, consult with your veterinarian.

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Why Do Dogs Eat Feces?

Some dogs, especially those in kennel situations, may eat feces because they are anxious or stressed. One researcher suggests that dogs who have been punished by their owners for defecating inappropriately start to think any defecation is wrong, so they try to eliminate the evidence.

Another theory is that coprophagy (stool eating) is a trait passed down through the ages. Dogs' cousins, wolves and coyotes, may often eat feces if food is in short supply. Feces from herbivores (plant eaters) contain many vital B vitamins. Some researchers suggest that wolves (and some dogs) may eat feces to replenish their vitamin supply.

Dogs who eat their feces usually do not have a dietary deficiency. Some medical problems, however, can contribute to coprophagy including severe disorders of the pancreas (pancreatic insufficiency) or intestine, severe malnutrition from massive parasitic infestations, or starvation. These cases are rare.

In some instances, coprophagy may be a behavior learned from watching other animals. It may also become a habit in the course of play and puppies having to try out the taste of everything.

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Eating Grass

Q: Why do dogs eat grass?

A:

Dogs commonly eat grass, and there are several explanations that have been offered for this behavior. One, wild canids (e.g., wolves and fox) eat all of an animal when they catch it. Since they eat many herbivores (plant-eating animals), they end up eating a lot of grasses and plants that were in the intestines of these animals. In addition, they have been known to eat certain berries and other plant material. Dogs then, may eat grass because, in reality, it is a normal part of their diet.

Many times, dogs will vomit after eating grass. Did they eat grass to make them vomit? Or did they vomit because they ate grass? It is a mystery, but it seems that some dogs may eat vegetation when they have an upset stomach.

The third reason - they just like it. Some dogs have certain species of grass or plant material that they will search out and eat. We know a beagle who can pick raspberries faster than his owner.

In any case, grass eating is basically a normal behavior, and is not of concern unless your dog does it excessively.

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Lawn Burn: The Cause & The Cure

Lawn burn is a common problem that results when the urine of your dog burns the grass in your lawn. If you have ever had to deal with this problem, you know how frustrating it is and how difficult it can be to prevent. There are many home remedies to correct this problem, but most of them are ineffective and a few of them actually make the situation worse. This article will describe the cause and contributing factors of lawn burn and give recommendations for preventing this problem in your own yard.

Identifying Lawn Burn

Before you start implementing changes to correct lawn burn, you need to make sure that your dog is actually the culprit. Several lawn diseases will look like lawn burn, with the small, characteristic brown patches. First, make sure that the brown spots are in areas where your dog urinates. Most dogs will have an area in the yard that they choose to use as the 'bathroom.' Secondly, make sure that the grass in the brown spots is still firmly attached. Grab a handful and give it a steady pull. If the grass is firmly rooted, then it points to lawn burn. If the whole bunch of grass pulls up, roots and all, then you may be dealing with a grub problem. And thirdly, make sure that your dog is the problem. If your neighbor's dog is coming into your yard and creating the problem it will not do any good to treat your own dog.

The Cause of Lawn Burn

Lawn burn is caused by the nitrogen in dog urine. Because dog urine is very high in nitrogen, when the dog urinates, it is similar to pouring liquid fertilizer on the lawn. A little fertilizer is good for the grass, but an excess causes nitrogen burn. The prevention of lawn burn deals with trying to reduce the amount of nitrogen coming into contact with the grass.

Contributing Factors

There are several contributing factors that increase the likelihood of developing lawn burn.

  • Female dogs are more likely to cause lawn burn than males because they void their entire bladder in one location instead of lifting their leg and marking, like males.
  • Large dogs deposit more urine so they increase the quantity of nitrogen in one location, making lawn burn more likely.
  • Those dogs, usually young active dogs, fed a high protein diet are more likely to produce a urine that causes lawn burn.
  • Heavily fertilized yards are already receiving near maximum levels of nitrogen. The small amount of nitrogen in dog urine may be all that is needed to put these lawns over the edge and cause lawn burn.
  • Lawns that are stressed are more susceptible to damage. Lawns that are suffering from drought, disease, or are newly sodded or seeded are more susceptible to lawn burn.

Solving the Problem

Successfully treating and preventing lawn burn often requires a multi-step approach.

  1. Saturate the urinated spots with water. After the pet urinates, pour several cupfuls of water on the spot to dilute the urine.
  2. Feed a high quality dog food that does not exceed the pet's protein requirement. High quality foods have more digestible protein sources that are more completely utilized by the pet and create less nitrogenous waste in the urine.
  3. Encouraging your dog to drink more, will help dilute the urine and decrease the risk of lawn burn. Small amounts of non-salted broth in the drinking water may help increase your dog's water intake.
  4. Train your dog to urinate in a location that is less visible. This approach is very effective for some owners that do not want to add supplements to their dogs' diet.
  5. Replant your yard with more urine-resistant grasses. The most resistant grasses tend to be perennial ryegrasses and fescues. The most sensitive tend to be Kentucky bluegrass and Bermuda.
  6. Feed your dog a supplement like Green-UM or Drs. Foster and Smith Lawn Guard, or apply a product to the lawn such as Dogonit Lawn Treatment. These products bind and neutralize the nitrogen in your pet's urine.
  7. Reduce the stress on your lawn by not over- or under-fertilizing and by providing frequent watering.

Brown spots created by lawn burn are not a medical threat to your dog, however, they can be unsightly and potentially expensive to repair. By understanding the cause of these spots, and then making a few changes, you should be able to give your dog full range of the yard and still enjoy a trouble-free lawn.

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